Guffin
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Posts posted by Guffin
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My daily driver, 1982 Mitsubishi Colt, has had the original Dot4 fluid 23 years now and the brakes works fine. Perhaps the dry climate in Sweden made this possible.
Jan
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This story was also in a Swedish newspaper a few days ago. A Swedish guy bought the car. In the Swedish article they said the car had no engine. Is this true?
Jan
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I have always used a light timer to keep my batteries charged during the winter months. The shortest time I can set the timer is 15 minutes a day. that is enough to keep even an old battery charged. I use cheep 4A chargers (one for each battery) that gives maximum output of 14 V (or 7 V for the 6 V charger). The limited voltages makes the current to decrease rapidly when the battery is fully charged. If one battery discharge more rapidly (old battery) the charging current will increase and compensate for the higher rate of discharge.
I have used this system for several years and I am satisfied with it.
Jan
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Sikaflex is a fantastic material. I repaired one of my tires with elastic sikaflex (the cord was not damaged. I also repaired the rubber mounts for the gearshift stick on my 1982 Colt. The only problem is that an opened tube has to be used within a week or so. Don't buy bigger package than you need for the moment.
It seems that modern materials are not well accepted for repairing antique cars.
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A qustion from somebody who never did it before to somebody who made it before: Is this contact pattern in the attached photo good?
I have adjusted my Buick 40-56s rear end. It does not look exactly like in the text books where the contact covers the whole length from toe to heel. This is the bast I could do.
Thank you for comments.
Jan
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If it blinks very fast the current is too high. Probably short circuit somewhere on the line or in the lamp.
Jan
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I corrected my previous post and added the link to the maker of U2 carbs. here it is again
http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/
Jan
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I have had an engine called a Ford C engine that looked like a B engine but with pressure fed oil to the bearings. It had a counterweight crank. I put it in an A-Ford I had. The A gearbox fitted exactly. The same engine was produced until around 1960 and was used for many different purposes. Ford used this block in a Marine engine in the 50is. I was going to buy this engine for my boat in 1966 as I was very familiar to the A and B Ford engines. It had a thick head gasket so it could run on kerosine. At that time they offered me there latest model instead, build around a Ford Zephyr (British) 6 cylinder engine. I still have that boat and the Zephyr engine. It runs very nice and quiet
Jan
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Nice to hear from another Hupp owner. The 1928-29 models are quite different from the 1927. My car has temp gauge on the dash.
Jan
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This company makes reproductions of the U2 and UX2 carbs. If there is enough demand they will probably make the UU2.
http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/
Jan
(Sorry, I forgot the link. Here it is
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I will argue that the engine should be clean inside even if you don't use detergent oil. One day some crud will get lose and maybe clog an oil line.
So if you have an old car running on the old type of oil, CLEAN THE ENGINE as soon as possible and put in modern oil. That may save your engine.
Jan
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You can use an electronic regulator. I can mail you a shematic diagram if you like. It can be made small and live inside the generator. I have it on my cars and it works well. Many of these old generators can not charge with enough current for the headlamps and tail lamps if you use stronger light than original. The specification for my Buick 1932 is maximum 20 A when cold and 12 A when warm (they don't tell at what temperature!). So if I also have the heater on it will discharge 2 or 3 A.
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Thank you Greg. Sweden is far away, but don't be too sure, I may turn up one day.
JT, the original oil filter was already changed before I got the car so I don't know exactly how it looked like.
Jan
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My Hupmobile 1929 has also Steeldraulic brakes. I took off the cloth and put a shrink tube on instead (a plastic tube that shrinks when you apply heat). That protects them better than the cloth covering. Also, if you grease them the grease will come out through the cloth covering (There is a special tool with which you can fill the conduit with grease). The shrink tube protects from water coming into the conduit.
Mine has no grease fittings.
Jan
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Please Kisselman, Take a picture of when you eat your hat and post it. It must be fun to see.
My Hupmobile 1929 Century 8 had and still has a full flow oil filter that was standard on the Century 8. Also the 1928 Century 8 had it. It also has pressure fed oil to the piston pins, also unusual at that time.
See atatchment
Jan
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Frank,
Here is a photo of the dash.
I have heard that a Swedish engineer was working at the Hupp design department in the 20´s. He later moved back to Sweden and took part in the design of the first Volvo car.
The Hup is a well designed car with some unusual features for that time. 1928 and 1929 are essentially the same design with full flow oil filter and pressure fed oil to ALL bearings, including the piston pins (through drilled holes in the rods)
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I have also been using cylinder oil in my prewar cars. It was recommended by Shell. Texaco also recommended Ursa Super LA 50.
Jan
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The Hupp was sold in Stockholm by the Hupmobile representative Fredlunds Automobile AB so it has lived in Sweden all its life. The owner traded in the Hupp in 1960 for a Hillman car (now long gone) and the same company sold the car to me. The Hupp had then been standing in a heated garage since 1939 with only 44000 km on the odometer. The tyres were taken by the army during the war. The first owner's son wanted the garage space for the new Hillman and forced his father to sell the car. When I pulled away the Hupp the old man cried.
The Hupmobile Century 8 was a rather expensive car. In the USA the list price was a little more than $2000 (More than an Auburn 1929). I paid SKR1600 ($200) for the car which was much money for me at that time.
Jan
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The first owner (the one I bought the Hupp from) said it came from a car they traded in when they bought the Hupp. It could still be an aftermarket mascot, of cause. Eather the front paw or the rear paw has to be outside the cap, perhaps it isn't a car mascot at all? There is a bolt behind the rear left leg going through the center of the cap. I repaired this bolt and the original was poorly tin soldered to the lion. Anyhow, I think it looks nice and as it has been on the car since it was new, I will keep it on.
Jan
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See attachment
This lion was put on my Hupmobile 1929 Century 8 when it was new. The first owner of the Hupp said it came from an older car they traded in. From which make of car could it be?
Jan
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A multigrade oil is better than a single grade because the single grade oil tend to be too thin at higher temperatures. A Texaco oil expert advised me to use 20W-50 in my Hupmobile 1929 and 10w-40 in my other prewar cars.
All modern oil is much better than the old stuff. Just chose the correct viscosity. However, you have to be careful with one thing: Most old cars use some yellow metal (e. g. bronz) in gearbox and differential. Some modern hypoid and other heavy duty oils are harmful to yellow metals and should be avoided. In the specification for the oil you can find information about if it is harmful to yellow metals. You can get best advise by talking to one of the big oil companies oil expert.
Jan
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No seal on 1938 series 40. Just the oil collecting grove. All other years and models had a seal as I described above.
Jan
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The pushrods on my 1932 and 1940 Buiks are not rotating. The 1940 engine is recently restored. In each rocker arm there is an oil passage for carrying oil from the rocker shaft to the push rods. Check that these holes are not clogged. You have to remove the ball stud and locknut in order to clean the oil passage. The oil passage consists of a larger drilled passage from the rocker shaft and ending at the ball stud. A smaller hole is drilled 90 degrees to the larger passage. Oil fed to the push rods makes the mechanism less noisy.
Jan
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Shims are standard on these types of bearings. 1935-38 Buick series 40 had no cork oil seal and one oil collecting grove as in your photo. 1935-37 series 50, 60, 80, and 90 had a second grove for a cork seal. 1938 series 60, 80, 90 and all 1939-53 had a braided fabric seal to the rear of the oil collecting grove.
Be shore to put back the same thickness of shims when you put back the bearing cap (if you are not going to adjust the bearings).
Jan
Details for 1931 buick
in General Discussion
Posted
It must be the largest Buick Series 90 four door sedan. If it has a dividing window between front and rear seat it is a 90L. They also made a open 7 seater Phaeton Model 95. They made 4159 model 90, 514 of 90L and 392 of the Model 95. Sometimes you can find parts for these cars on Ebay.
Jan