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Guffin

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Posts posted by Guffin

    Can brake drums be repaired?

    in Technical

    Posted

    The brake drums of mu Buick 32-87 are worn out. Is it possible to repair brake drums?

    My drums was, according to the shop that should put new lining on, destroyed by using old type of woven linings. These type of linings becomes very hard with time and use up the drum.

    Jan

    Continuation of my 1938 Special thread

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    Meropa 220 (ISO 220) has the same viscosity as SAE 90 Gear Oil. The EP additives are harmless to yellow metals and this oil can be used even in modern Hypoid transmissions. It has special additives for preventing "micro-pitting" and is therefore suited for heavily loaded gears of all kind.

    I also guess that you will pay less for this oil than for any so called "special oil for classic cars". These oils are just recanned oil from some of the large oil manufacturer. However, it may be difficult to buy Meropa in small bottles. Here in Sweden I have to buy at least 20 liter at a time

    Jan

    generator regulation

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    I don't know what you mean by an Anod. Just turn the diode the other way. It conducts in only one direction. For best result you should use a Schottky diode. They have a lower voltage drop. There are such diodes with 0.48 V at 20 A. The cost around $10. This is about the same voltage drop as over the contacts of the cut out relay at 20 A. But the relay contacts are resistive so the voltage drop will depend of the current. The diode has nearly a constant voltage drop and if you adjust the generator voltage to 7.5 V you will get a very stable output voltage of 7 V after the Shottky diode.

    The power disipation is also lower in the Shottky diod, approximately 10 W instead of 20 W or more for an ordinary diod. Both type of diods have to be mounted on an heat sink to keep it cool.

    If you put an electronic voltage regulator on your third brush generator your cut out may fail. This is because the cut out for such generators are adjusted to activte at 8 V or more. You have to adjust the cut out to activate at a lower voltage.

    Jan

    Data on My Buick 1931 export model

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    The chassi number indicates an early 1931 car. Search Ebay every week for Buick 1931 parts. There are sometimes parts for your car. Today there is a 1931 headlamp bar and a headlamp for sale. You can also try:

    http://www.1933buickregistry.com/

    http://www.hemmings.com

    http://www.usedpartscentral.com/used_buick_parts.htm

    You can also make a search for ?1931 Buick parts? on www.google.com and, of cause, http://www.buickclub.org/

    Jan

    Data on My Buick 1931 export model

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    If your car has a Fisher body it must be a 95x (x stands for export). It is a very rare model with only 392 made for the US market.

    If the chassie (serial) number really is 2646102, it should be 1932 year model! I don't recognize the engine nuber. Is this what you found stamped on the engine? The engine number should be in the range 2624638 and 2751921.

    Serial number should be on a plate on the right side of the frame, behind front fender.

    Please take a photo of the car and mail me.

    You can find a lot of information if you go to www.google.com and e. g. seach for "Buick history".

    Jan

    Do you use lead additive in your fuel?

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I use it when I drive my Buick 32-87 because it has got new valves. From my experience lead may be important in a new engine or after a valve job. The valve seats seem to develop a hard surface after some use which will prevent pitting of the valve seats. I used my Hupmobile for many years using leaded gas. When leaded gas was forbidden here in Sweden (About 25 years ago?) i used unleaded gas without additives. Three years ago I took off the head and inspected the valves and they were in perfect condition. I usually drive the Hupp 60 on the highway.

    A misunderstanding is that a low compression engine put less stress on the valves. This is only true at low rpm and low load. Fact is that the exhaust temperature is higher for a low compression engine than high compression engine. This is because the efficiency increase with the compression ratio which means that more of the heat is transformed to useful power. Most of the wasted heat goes out with the exhaust.

    Jan

    Data on My Buick 1931 export model

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    It is difficult to answer your questions if you don't tell if it is an open car or a closed car and if it is a standard coach work on the car. Buick exported also chassis without body, and the body could be built by a coach builder in the country the car was exported to.

    Buick made four series of chassis in 1931, with different wheel base and engines. These are Series 50, 60, 80 and 90. An X is put after the model number for export models. If the body on your car is made by Fisher, it is a standard body. In that case you car must be a Series 90 because only on this chassis Buick made 7 seaters. If your car is an open car it is a 4 door Phaeton model 95. If it is a closed car without dividing window between front and rear seats it is a 4 door Sedan model 90. If it has a dividing window it will be a 4 door Limousine model 90L.

    If, on the other hand, your Buick has a body build at another coach builder than Fisher, it will be more difficult to know which chassi it is build on. You have to measure the wheel base of your car. Is it 114? it will be a series 50. Is it 118? it will be a series 60. A series 80 will have 124? and a series 90 132? between the front and rear axle shafts.

    To find out if your car has a Fisher body you should look for a small name plate, low down in front of the front door post. The name plate should read Body by Fisher.

    From the above information you should be able to find out which model of Buick you have. Please inform us about what you find out and we will tell you more about these cars.

    Jan

    updraft carbs

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I agree with Frank. The carburetor should not leak but with full choke, gas will be sucked from the carb and gas will drip from the carburetor. On my Hupmobile and Buick, I only use full choke for one to two revolutions of the engine and then push the choke in somewhat. How much you have to try out.

    One problem with a leaking carburetor is that it will be empty after the car has been standing for a while. If you have a mechanical gas pump it will takes many revolutions of the engine before new gas has filled the carburetor (as on my Buick -32). In hot weather the gas in the carb may also boil out so it is empty wen you try to start the car. Because of this I have put in an electric pump in my Buick -32. I only use the electric pump before starting the engine, to fill the carburetor.

    With a vacuum tank this is not the problem as long as not all of the gas in the vacuum tank has been leaking out. This may be the case after the car has been standing for some weeks, because it may be difficult to have the needle valve to be completely free from leakage. I used to close the valve under the vacuum tank when I parked my Hupmobile. Recently I found a 6 V operated valve which I mounted under the vacuum tank and connected to the ignition switch. With this I don't have to open the hood and reach for the gas valve every time I take out the Hupp for a ride.

    Jan.

    The race is on...Rochester here I come

    in Me and My Buick

    Posted

    DizzyDale, regarding copper tubes for fuel lines: In the picture below you can see two copper lines. The uppermost is 76 years old and the other 45 years old and they are not brittle. They can easily be bent without braking. Are there different types of copper tubes? I have also heard about copper tubes becoming brittle but I have never seen any brittle copper tubes. 9904Hupp_engine_2-med.jpg

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