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Posts posted by DSpringer
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Thanks for the update, Keith. Looking forward to putting one on my 41!
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Thanks Tom and everyone. Too late. They talked me into putting their logo on the windshield - not too conspicuous, but it would have been nice to use Roy's kit. Maybe I'll do that for the side windows.
They were right about the requirement for a mark and gave me the citation: Title 49, Volume 5, Section 571.205-S6.3 of the Code of Federal Regulations states: "A manufacturer or distributor who cuts a section of glazing material to which this standard applies, for use in a motor vehicle or camper, must-- (a) Mark that material in accordance with section 7 of ANSI/SAE 226.1-1996; and ( Certify that its product complies with this standard in accordance with 49 U.S.C. 30115."
So technically, having the glass made without the mark is a federal violation. I wonder who's watching. Would having glass without the Ford logo lose points in judging?
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Thanks, the outfit is Classic Flat Glass in Placerville, CA. They seem to know their stuff and said they would show me the vehicle code section. California trumps all other states in rules and regulations.
CFG was sensitive to the fact that I might want to show the car and that without original logos it would lose points. My original windows bear a Ford Safety Glass logo.
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I'm having windows remade and the shop says they have to include their logo for the vehicle to be street legal. This is probably a California regulation, but what experience have others had in this regard? They are not willing to counterfeit a Fomoco logo.
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Thanks, I guess the mounts are for vibration, not electrical isolation.
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I acquired a 51A-10505 voltage regulator awhile back and am installing it. Pretty sure it's 6V positive ground. The Bosch (yes, Bosch!) that came out was mounted on isolation grommets. Does anyone know if this one has to be isolated from the body?
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What's the latest on steering wheels, Keith?
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Thanks much, Dee. You came through for me once again. I've had the doors off before and I think I'll pull them again to make the seal easier to install. I can visualize black goop all over my nice new paint if I try to do it with the doors hung.
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It's pretty easy, Mike. Just click on 'New Reply' (don't use 'Quick Reply'). Scroll down to 'Advanced Options' and click on 'Manage Attachments'. Then click on 'Browse' to select the picture file (assuming it's already on your computer), and then click 'Upload'. The system will not accept very large images, so you might want to shrink the photo to a size that's under 1 meg first. -Dave
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I sure wish I'd known about Tom Nelson a couple years back. I sent my dash and garnish molding to Bob Waller in New Hampshire. For 13 tense months I wasn't sure I would ever see them again. It took threats from my Sicilian brother-in-law and holding out money to finally get him to return them. He did a great job but didn't quite get the color right.
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Tom- Thanks for the great information and photos! Don't know what I'd do without this forum.
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I have my tranny out of the car. The gears and sychro rings look great but I wonder what seals I should replace. I'm figuring on the gear shift shaft seals (7288). Is there a seal on the u-joint end, or does that just bleed into the torque tube? Trying to find the cork seal (4516) for the u-joint housing cap - seems to be missing from the Boos-Herrel catalog.
Dave
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I gave my son my old 4 on the tree in high school (a Saab 96). He came home one weekend and said "Dad, why haven't you done anything with the Lincoln? Let's pull the engine." And that's when it started.
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Thanks, Dee. I had the impression that jack oil did not mix well with the original glycerine based oil, but I'll give it a try. One of them is so gummed up it won't make any difference what I use, and that one's going to Apple after I win the lottery.
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Anyone have any updated information on what fluid might be available that is compatible with the original? These things are pricey to rebuild and I'm hoping just feeding them the right stuff will keep them working.
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OK, 65 in November, but not feeling it nor ready for retirement, tho I'd get the '41 done a lot quicker if I did. I think Cole does a very professional job on TWOTZ but I miss the get-your-hands-dirty journalism that should at least be covered in Tech Tips, and I do sense a bit of elite-ism. I'm less interested in what bracket came with center bumpers than how to seal a transmission leak. I'm a little irked that I gave him lots of information on Rolf Burdette, who contributed his vast knowledge, skills, and parts to many of us but he hardly got a mention in the obits. Still, I'll never want Cole's job.
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Thanks man, I trust you know your stuff. So you grip the valves from the top with vice grips after the springs/stems are cut? Can I get Ford guides to replace the split guides, and do they have the right dimensions? Are these the same as used in 49-53 flatheads?
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Just lost an ebay bid on a KD Tools #918 valve puller and #917 retainer driver. Somebody wanted them really bad. Anyone know where I could borrow/rent one? I won't need it for a while. -Dave
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Thanks, Bob. I'm following up with them.
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Got paint that nicely matches the original Paradise Green, now on to the next challenge. I visited SMS Auto Fabrics in Oregon and was sadly disappointed by their selections. They said they had never seen anything like the common beige broadcloth samples I brought in. Anyone know of a good fabric source for plain 'ol '41 Zephyrs? -Dave
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No, I can be reached at springer@davisenergy.com or daspring42@gmail.com.
Thanks- Dave
Photos of H112450
in Lincoln & Zephyr
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Thanks, Keith, but the steering wheel is really a mess!