Amphicar BUYER
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Posts posted by Amphicar BUYER
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There are several choices, as I have seen this before.... paint is NOT dye! The spray bomb dye from any supplier work well if you follow the destructions. Be patient, several coats and you'll be fine.
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1 hour ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:
(SNIP) Anyone else remember the custom van craze of the mid-late 70s - all but forgotten and certainly nearly worthless today, an anomaly with very few interest from today's collectors. These things feel like the same to me when their current fans age out - no sticking power, but the damage is done.
As it turns out, these very vans are gaining in popularity, not an anomaly at all. They are far from forgotten and far from worthless as well. Some of the best examples are bringing high dollar and sought after.
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Amphicars broke all the "rules" when they were 1st produced in 1961 it was a simple 5 digit sequential-ish number. Sometime in 1964ish they went to a 9 digit number. I have found the "VIN" located on no less than 10 places and parts on them (they do not always match!). Of course the one that counts is the tag riveted to the bulkhead which includes the engine number as well.
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What is common one day is rare the next. What was once hated becomes the most desirable. Any custom done to a high standard will hold it's value and often becomes more valuable than an original. People act as if he took a low mileage survivor and customized it as Floyd Cotterpin used to do. A car saved from the scrapper and customized lives on. No matter what car it is, if it's scrapped... it's gone forever. If anyone is so upset at this, go buy it and restore it. Be a solution rather than an observer. I have yet to hear one single person offer to buy it.
I do not wish anyone to lose their ass as that is just petty and immature. Nobody had a fit when G. Barris customized a one off Lincoln for the Batmobile.
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There are so many complaining that it wasn't restored, it is "destroyed" or all the other descriptors. But I don't see anyone who is passionate enough to buy it and restore it. I don't like seeing solid rare and desirable cars rodded like the lazy Boyd Cotterpin was famous for, but we don't know how far gone this car was before the project started. If it so offends anyone, then go buy it and restore it. Otherwise you have to understand that the alternative could easily be scrap.It lives on customized, that better than crushed.
A well done rod can be dignified and and a tribute to the history of the car or marque. Better rodded than rusted and busted...
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If at all possible, I'd love to see a video of the windows in action. Still amazed!
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New asking price - $10k
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7 hours ago, Hudsy Wudsy said:
That's a silly point! They always have water in them. It rains, doesn't it?
If you stack them properly with a cover over the top, they don't get water in them.
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The tires are only a mosquito problem if they hold stagnant water.
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Don't waste money on "Oi dry" get the cheap non-perfumed kitty litter at 1/2 the cost of oil dry. at Wally World its about $3/10lbs. Be generous cover it deep, let stand overnight, speep it up. Repeat as needed. When you have all you can get up, cover it again with the dry litter and let it sit for a week. It should pulle most of it up. Then use a good biodegradable cleaner like simple green or purple power to scrub the rest with a stiff brush.
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They key is finding experienced blasters. I had a guy do an Amphicar for me. gave him specific direction and "no go zones". When I came to pick it up, he said "I did you a favor and blasted the entire thing for you". It was no "favor" as now the body has more waves than when it's in the water! It was warped badly from the front to the back. Cost me significant time and labor to repair the stretched and pitted metal. Fought him over the cost (even if he did me a "favor") and in the end he finally realized a law suit was not going to work out in his favor. Months later I found out he lied about his experience, rather than 10 years as he said, it was 4 months!!! Word got around and the last I saw he was selling his equipment on Craigslist.
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If you are going to have 12v available, you might consider a 12v electric water pump. You could install it for the trip and remove it after your are done. Just an idea...
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I agree that only a very small number of people would think that the venue endorses any candidate. Its no different than if they used any other venue with a corporate name. I see your thought process, but I don't think its a concern, I'm happy that their money was spent on a place we all support in one way or another.
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I had a similar thing happen a few years back.Different guy, but he did try to sell me my car (he sent me a photo of me in my Amphicar) and claimed it was him in the driver's seat!
I played him for about a month taking up as much of his time as I could. It ended with a long email tirade full of insults and threats. He did click on a link I provided that I said would take him to my PayPal account but in reality formatted his computer. I never heard another word from him.
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For me the best cars in the 80s are the 20 year old cars that were in the used car lots of the time. :-)
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Another 33 vs 34 Ford is the crank hole for a 33 is round, 34 is the shape of the grill.
33, single hood latch, 34 has 2
33 does not have a ledge for the rear edge of the hood to sit in at the top of the firewall where 34 does.
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I rarely have had to pay more than $1/mile. Open carrier, non-runner cars. I have paid as little as $0.75/mile. These all are 800 miles+ trips. Cheaper than I could do it myself.
If you want to get some jobs, try looking at Uship.com I've had good luck there finding qualified shippers. I do my due diligence 1st before I commit. As a driver, I am not sure how it all works, but it's worth investigating.
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This bug drives as well as it looks (and face it, it pretty damn cute!). Seriously! Starts every time.
It is wearing a new high end (not your typical paint work) sanded and polished original sky blue color.
Interior is unbelievably nice and a modern stereo is installed for decent tunes.
Every seal has been replaced. You can close the door with your little finger and still pop your ears if you're inside. It's that solid!
Shifts as smooth as butter! You will be amazed.
Stops like a VW for obvious reasons!
New tires all around.
Comes with a towbar. Brackets and tail light plug in the trunk are already installed so you could tow it behind your motorhome.
Get in and drive it anywhere. It shows just a hair over 30k miles and it shows in the excellent condition of everything. Bring cash, drive it home!Located in Northern Colorado (80513)
John _ (Call or text) 303-868-8384
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For me the list is very lengthy. Ironically the term "rare" is anything but rare. I've seen more than I have owned but have personally seen quite a few truly rare cars. Seen so many one of one cars and one of <10 cars that, that category is not rare at all. Rare anymore is a manufactured or misused descriptor in too many ads. "This is the only one made with this color and these options" doesn't mean anything. If an option was only installed on 5% of the 15k made, that is rare.
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I'd love to see some video of your work in action. Seeing the windows work would be a treat (all your posts are a treat!)
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Proportions are all wrong. Looks like a melted purple people eater turd
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I use all my ragtops regularly and if it's a nice day (of course my Caddys and Olds are power tops), topless is the way to be! I do get those that have a poorly engineered top mechanism, they can be a b***h! My amphicar has what must be one of the worst designed (manual) tops ever. I've put it down myself too many times to count and it rarely folds the same way twice let alone correctly. Once in a while, BAM! it drops into place. Most of the time it's a lot of WTF Grrr and sumbit** damnt etc. Going up is not as difficult but for one guy, cumbersome especially when you are as short as I am! (using a wheelchair that is)
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Pulled the top down right after it came off the trailer a couple of years ago.
Hasn't been up since.
NOTHING is harder on a top than leaving down for extended periods. It will crease and shrink. Best to put it up thru the winter and often in warm weather to keep it stretched properly.
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90% of the cars I've owned were ragtops. If you have a quality top, they are fine. They are meant to be up or down. I find it ridiculous to not drive or use a car. You can have a very nice resto and still enjoy it. Seems a waste to not use it!
looking for advice
in General Discussion
Posted
If you are going to actually drive it any distance, go with the new chassis, but keep the old one, restore it and store it away. Best of both worlds! You will be safer for road trips as the newer chassis will have better brakes, better ride, better economy, more power (especially if you go with a diesel) and better reliability not to mention part availability while away from home.
If you don't plan to go many miles, restore the chassis, repair all that is needed and live life!
Like it has been said before, the danger in splits are while mounting. If they blow at just about any point, that is almost always operator error. I've mounted too many to count, never saw one blow because I knew what I was doing. CLEAN the ring and wheel thoroughly before assy, be 110% sure it's seated fully, inflate in a cage slowly making sure the ring remains in it's seated and upright position.