Spitfire8

A couple posts back I questioned the process of steering wheel centering on my '36 1401. After verifying wheel alignment, I now realize the off-centering of the steering wheel is caused by a drag link that is too long! After disconnecting the drag link, and manually centering both steering wheel AND front wheels, I find the drag link knuckle joint extends past the receiving pitman arm hole by about 1.5", requiring the steering wheel to be turned off-center in order to mate pitman arm with drag link. That extra drag link length also prevents the front wheels from turning full-right, as the back end of the too-long link now hits the sidemount bracket at the frame. That's the "mechanicaleeze" part. My suspicion is someone replaced the original drag link with one from a different year, or perhaps one from a Super-8 or 12. Soooooo, the question: Anyone know if the Standard 8 link was shorter than the Super-8 and/or 12 for 1936 (1935 too?) Better yet, anyone in a postion to measure a correct link along the top surface and post-back with the overall measurement? Once I know the length, I can seek the correct part..... Thanks in advance for any assistance! Bill.

Yes, it's a '36. Does anyone have a cut-away drawing they can post or link to, showing the innards of these units? As noted, I have not yet removed the thermostat, and am curious as to what the mechanicals are like; which I'm assuming are housed inside some sort of protective "can" or shell. What part or portion is usually responsible for failure-to-operate? Maybe after outing it, curiosity will necessitate I do a c-section and attempt to repair it myself......or, perhaps good sense will prevail, and I'll let someone else repair it, or I'll just buy a replacement! Cheers, Bill.

Just noticed the 165-degree Sylphon thermostat in the Packard isn't opening the radiator shutters, even after a prolonged warm-up. Coolant level is full. Shutters move freely by hand when disconnected from thermostat. I've never worked on one of these thermostats, so before I remove the unit: Can it be opened? Cleaned? Repaired? Adjusted? Or, once non-functioning, must it be replaced? Any thermo-wisdom appreciated! Bill.

palosfv3: Thanks for the recommendations; I'll get out my string, grease and tape measure! Regards, Bill.

Anyone know the trick to centering the steering wheel on a '36 1401 (Standard 8)? Shop manual says nothing. Seems the only way to reposition the steering wheel would be to alter the distance between the knuckle joints at the ends of the drag link, thus allowing the steering wheel to be rotated to accomodate the change in distance bewteen the knuckles. However, these joints are not threaded-on, and cannot be turned in or out to vary overall drag link length. The knuckles are held in place between a screw cap and a heavy compression spring. Are the springs correct? Would't springs in a drag link contribute to spongy steering? Perhaps the springs are incorrect, and should be replaced with bushings or shims, which could be added or removed to move the position of the knuckles. But THAT would be a burdensome and imprecise method of adjustment. Or, am I just missing something here??? Thanks, Bill.

Ken: The gauge must come out from the rear of the instrument panel; it cannot be removed from the front. So, this leaves two options: removing the gauge while the instrument panel is still in the dash, or removing the instrument panel, and then removing the gauge. In either case, the iluminating lights for the temp/speedo duo must be removed before either temp or speedo can be removed. You might also find that the dash bracket which holds the entire instrument cluster in-place is partially covering the edge of the temp gauge, thus hindering removal of the gauge while the instrument panel is in place. In addition, the sloping angle of the dash doesn't help in reaching the screws at the top of the items you're trying to remove. You may find that it's easier to remove the half-dozen nuts securing the entire instrument cluster, and pull it slightly away from the dash and into the passsenger compartment, in order to have easier access to the related temp gauge screws. (And remember that the capillary tube and expansion bulb must come out with the gauge. Despite appearances, the tube does not disconnect from the back of the gauge).

I believe the seats were hardened from the factory. Leaded gas was not available from all refiners in the old days, so that product was not in universal use. The Chrysler-8 exhaust manifold is a fancy piece of casting-work, and you want to avoid breaking it! I check my heat riser frequently, and give both sides of the flapper-pivot a squirt of carb cleaner. If the flapper sticks closed ("cold' position) heat build-up can result in a cracked manifold.

I'd like to re-do the poorly-done woodgraining job on the dash of a '36 1401 convertible coupe. Before I do, I want to be sure no incorrect holes are left in the dash. To that end, some people tell me the left wiper switch should be located in the dash, directly above the steering column, and the right wiper switch located to the left of the right-hand glove box door. Other folks say both wiper switches should be positioned in the grouping containing the ignition switch, starter button, lighter, etc. Would anyone care to weigh-in as to which view is correct? Thanks, Bill.

Seeking parts for a ‘36 Standard 8 convertible coupe: *dash-mounted windshield wiper controls & knobs (for both wipers) *trip odometer reset cable and knob *starter button & bezel *generator brush cover *driver’s side lower hood trim-spear (42” length) *molding at top of hood *under-dash maplight; including housing, lens and switch *tail light lenses *door restraing strap (Restricts door opening) *cigar lighter *knob for clock-time adjustment THANKS! Bill Allard. 1801 Fernside. Tacoma, WA 98465. 253-565-2545. bill.allard@comcast.net.

Hello Packard fans:: Just purchased my first Packard, a '36 Standard-8. Would like to drop and clean the pan. Getting the pan off appears easy, but are there any "caveats" regarding getting it back in position, and sealed so it doesn't leak? I ask, because this pan is also bolted vertically to the motor at both front and rear; whereas pans I've previously encountered have fasteners only on the horizontal-plane. Thanks in advance for any garage-wisdom!

Weak trunk springs are not necessarily a curse. The downside to having strong springs is that they also push UP with heavy force while the lid is closed. On wooden cars, this can cause an upward deflection of the corners of the trunk! The factory tried to resolve this issue by adding metal reinforcing straps at the corners. BUT, after 50+ years of pushing UP, the springs in some T&Cs have still managed to bow the corners of the trunk. I've kept my weak springs and hold the lid in the up position by hand on the few occsions when I access the trunk, rather than risking deflection of the wood.

Post deleted by Bill_Allard

T&Cers: Anyone happen to have a C-39 (8-cylinder) rear axle apart for rebuilding; such that the ring and pinion are apart? I'd be interested in knowing the diameter (micrometer-reading) of the bore in the housing for the pinion seal. I suspect it might be 3.170", but the only way to verify that is to "mike" the bore with the pinion seal and pinion gear removed. Thanks!

Here's another opinion on this topic: Chrysler literature indicates that non-detergent 10-W motor oil should be used in the GEARBOX (accessible from under the car). However, the fluid drive unit, (accessible from inside the car through a panel in the right-side of the tranny-hump, should be filled with "Mopar Fluid Drive Fluid." I believe this fluid is nothing more than ordinary, clear mineral oil..... I've also heard that Chevron makes a similar product called something like "Torque-Coupling Fluid," and that some tractor dealers sell a product for use in fluid couplings on some-make tractors. Also heard that Ford Type "F" automatic transmission fluid works, as well. Motor oil is supposedly too "slippery" for this application. It may work, but it's possible you'd be losing some traction! I suspect Chrysler had a reason for not dumping motor oil down that hole..........

Mangpo: There can be many reasons why a car quits runnning. Most of the time it's either a shortage of fuel at the combustion chamber, or the lack of spark to ignite the fuel; with lack of (effective) spark the most common culprit. As a starting point, test for spark at the plugs by removing and holding one high-tension wire about an eighth of an inch from the cylinder head, and with the key "on," crank the engine. You should get a spark across the gap. If you don't, this is a trouble-shooting starting point. Report back.

I'm not familiar with these specific parts, but instead of running all over the country looking for Chrysler-specific bushings, you might try a local bearing supply house. If they don't have an exact match, they can often supply a bushing that can be machined to fit.

Does anyone have an exhaust manifold available that will fit a 1950 Chrysler straight-8? Thanks for any help or leads! Email: petrofanz@attbi.com

T&Cers: I'm searching for a few scraps of USED, original, tan-color bedford cord upholstery cloth to repair a little bit of moth damage in the rear seat cushion of my original '48 convertible. Bugs nibbled in a couple spots while the car was in storage many years ago. Perhaps you saved some of the original upholstery after your restoration...??? Thanks for any assistance! Bill. (petrofanz@comcast.remove this.net)