RansomEli
-
Posts
1,021 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by RansomEli
-
-
Looking for my first car - senior year in high school. Dad was going to pay.
Found a nice 1965 Ford Mustang fastback. Black with black interior. 289 V8 with 4-speed.
Dealer wanted $1100. My dad offered $900. No go. My dad refused to budge and I didn't get the car.
Instead, we bought a 1963 Fiat roadster for $900.
Sigh. I probably would still own the Mustang.
-
2
-
-
A very nice article. Makes you want to read more about Bentley.
-
1
-
-
Thanks for the info, NailheadBob. I purchased one via eBay.
-
1
-
-
Do any of you have a quick way to remove the c-clips on a brake shoe?
I've dealt with these little buggers most of my life, and they never seem to come off as easy as they should.
Any tips would be appreciated.
-
Eastwood sells a $22 tool that gets good reviews - the Screw Buster Remover. You use it with a pneumatic hammer and loosen the screw while shocking it loose.
I need to remove a lot of wood screws but haven't tried it yet.
-
2
-
-
Stay away from new tubes sold today in the US. I've had problems with them failing after less than 2 months.
If your old tubes are OK, then I would use them rather than buying new US tubes.
Some people on this forum recommended Blockley tires in England, both for their tires and inner tubes ( https://www.blockleytyre.com ). Since I am replacing the tires on my 2 cars, I ended up buying 10 inner tubes. The end price is about double what you would pay in the US, but the quality of the inner tubes more than makes up for the price difference. They are easily twice as robust as their US versions.
If your original inner tubes are OK, then continue using them. Otherwise, replace them with Blockleys.
-
4
-
1
-
-
Don,
Looks like a fun project. What type of wood are you using?
-
B Jake Moran,
If you ask people what they think, of course you'll get lots of advice to not buy the car.
Buying and restoring a car is not a logical act.
But:
1. If you like the car and
2. Have the money and
3. Realize the restoration is going to cost more than you thought and
3. Don't care what other people think...
Then:
1. Buy the car and have it restored just the way you want and
2. Drive the heck out of it and
3. Post lots of pictures here on the forum.
Let us know what happens.-
6
-
-
TCP Global has a color library that includes coaches and carriages. They can mix the color desired in acrylic enamel, single stage urethane, acrylic lacquer and base coat-clear coat.
https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/coaches-carriages
-
I've got a couple of cars that use lock rings. I'm replacing the tires on both and wonder if there's any advantage to powder coating the lock rings.
Powder coating would reduce any chipping but would it have a detrimental effect on the rings themselves?
-
Good news. The Owen Dyneto starter/generator does NOT need rebuilding.
It was the battery after all.
Following the advice from another Franklin member, I load-tested the battery. It showed a charge of over 12 volts and the lights and horn worked great. However, when load tested, the battery failed.
Replaced the battery and the starter worked perfectly. YAY!!!
Checked the battery date and it was installed in the Franklin in 2010. Pretty good lifespan.
Thanks to everyone for their advice. I will continue in my attempts to purchase a set of brushes, however. They're scarce/unavailable at the present time.
-
Looks like the illegitimate child of a Triumph TR3 and a Nash Metropolitan.
-
1
-
-
I could use a couple of cases like that to display my Lionel train collection. Right now it's sitting in boxes under the staircase.
-
1
-
-
1937hd45,
You can get a perfectly good TIG welder for under $200. I bought this model and it's working fine. Steel only. If you also want to weld aluminum then you need another TIG welder. Those run $800 and up.
I'm in TIG learning mode and my $200 model is doing well.
-
2
-
-
Steve,
That's good to know -- the tires look a little big for the chassis. I would have preferred 32X4, which are the same as my 9B.
-
1
-
-
The tires on my '23 Franklin are 6.00-20. Don't know what that translates to wheel size.
As mentioned above, it's very hard to find wire wheel replacements for Series 9 and 10 cars. People will buy entire cars just to get a rare set of wire wheels.
-
Making sure Santa gets to the parade on time...
-
8
-
-
Ugly but strangely intriguing. Part of me likes it. The two shift levers - is one of them for the 2-speed differential?
-
1
-
-
The 366 cone was used in the 1926-27 Model 80. Don't see how it would fit your 1928 Series 62.
I've included my 1930 Timken bearing catalog page show Chrysler specs.
-
2
-
-
Make and model of your car would help. I have a Timken bearing catalog that is based on year, make and model.
-
I had a Chevrolet about the same year. The car had an air pump for leveling the rear shocks at the location you mentioned. If there was battery power the air pump would try to level out the car.
Sounds like your rear shock leveler is just trying to do its job.
There should be an electrical connection to the device. Unpower the device and then you shouldn't have that funny noise.
One thing about serpentine belts -- if all the pulleys aren't exactly aligned the belt will slip off. Double-check that the pulley was installed correctly.
The next thing to go wrong on the car will be the plastic intake manifold. Replace it with an aftermarket Dorman's. Designed better than the OEM version.
-
wsmith,
I own a '21 and '23 Franklin. The frame is all wood in your car.
A lot of the Franklin people hang around in the Franklin Facebook forum. You might get more responses from Southern California by posting your question there:
Franklin Automobile Enthusiasts:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/251339938628026/
There is someone in North San Diego county who may be able to help out. His Facebook page is:
San Diego Franklin Certified Service Station
https://www.facebook.com/San-Diego-Franklin-Certified-Service-Station-546677279019405
I have a spare frame but it is for a 9B and is not for sale. Frames are out there -- you have to be persistent.
Depending on the condition of your wood, the frame can be buttressed or given a Rube Goldberg fix.
I'm assuming you're a member of the Franklin Club. Lots of support there, too.
Let us know what happens.
-
Dalef62,
There are several excellent lock ring threads in the AACA. Read them to bolster your courage. All the above comments are great.
The first time I changed a lock ring on my 1921 Franklin (24" wheels) it took an awfully long time. At least 8 hours due to my lack of knowledge and stupidity.
Two months later (due to a defective inner tube), I changed the same tire a second time in about an hour. I knew the process.
I did the removal and replacement with the wheel still on the car. I felt it gave me better leverage than having the wheel on the garage floor. It's your choice, however.
Taking the lock ring off is fairly simple. Make sure all the air is out of the tire. I marked the location of the lock ring with some chalk so I could replace it in the same location. Notice how the lock ring is locked into the wheel. Then, using two wide-bladed screwdrivers, slowly pry off the lock ring, starting at the end with the small notch. Take your time, one-to-two inches at a time. When you get about halfway through, the lock ring will help you and almost jump off at the end.
Clean and lube everything. When inserting the inner tube, use a valve stem puller to help pull the set through the wheel.
When replacing the lock ring, start with the other end. Work slow with the two screwdrivers. It will be frustrating at first -- the lock ring will jump off its track and you'll have to start over again. That's OK. It's part of your learning process of knowing just how much to pry on. And don't pinch the inner tube.
Keep prying the lock ring on a little at a time. When you get to the last 2-3 inches, the lock ring will snap into place with the most satisfying "snap" you've ever heard. Examine everything to make sure all is in place.
As noted above, filling the tire is the most dangerous part. If not installed properly, the lock ring can fly off the wheel and damage whatever is in its way. I followed the recommendation of other posters and slowly filled and unfilled my inner tube (without the valve installed) to help the lock ring set in place (or fall off without 60 lbs of pressure behind it). I also wrapped the tire with a long chain to help protect me. In filling the tire with air, I did so from the inner side of the wheel, away from the lock ring.
After exercising the inner tube and lock ring, I then installed the valve stem and pressurized the tire in several steps. Never placing myself in front of the wheel. When done, I checked that the lock ring was in the same position and set in place as before I took it off.
A word about inner tubes. The ones being sold today are very inferior and the dealers don't care. My new replacement tube lasted less than three months. I bought a set of Blockley inner tubes: 2-3 times the price but they seem to do the job. They are heavier than other inner tubes. I bought two sets of inner tubes for my two Franklins and am trying to get up the courage to replace 10 tires.
Check this forum for some threads on Blockley tires and inner tubes. Expensive but worth it.
Give the tire change a shot and let us know what happens.
-
1
-
-
Gary,
An excellent presentation. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to the next episode(s).
This is very helpful.
-
1
-
Off to Hershey - in style. '97 Lincoln TC Hearse, mint - $14,950 (Billings, Montana) not mine
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
I'd be afraid of driving it alone one night and having my shoulder tapped from behind.