[Recommendations for 1-cylinder coil box rebuild]

Thanks for the information. I've got a lead on a rebuilt box. If that doesn't work out, I'll follow up with the above recommendations.

[Mecum Florida Auction Seller Fees]

nick8086, 

 

If you acquired a car through probate, then for tax purposes the value of the car is the fair market value at that time. In other words, if I bought a Ferrari 250 GTO in 1965 for $35,000, kept it, died, and left it to you in my will, your cost basis of the car would not be $35,000; it would be approximately $55 million. I you sold the car you would report $0 profit. And if you spent a couple thousand tuning it up, you could report a loss.

 

If you have inherited one or more cars and are considering selling, talk to a CPA or lawyer beforehand. The tax implications are very significant.

 

When it comes to finances and legal issues, the internet is your enemy. Everyone has an incorrect opinion. Even me.

 

 

[Automotive grade leather for use in a brass era automobile restoration?]

I have purchased leather and horsehair from Mel Draper. He is a pleasure to deal with and gives great advice.

[Brass Car Model Kits]

Thought I would share a few of my models. I've got about 10 stored away for when I get some free time. Right now, I have a few 1:1 scale Franklins to work on.

 

Thankfully, I purchased these years ago. I'm stunned by the prices of new kits.

 

1. My favorites are the Pyro brass car kits. Small but very nice when assembled. I'd like to buy more kits but they're rather expensive today. Any leads would be appreciated. 
    
2. The Lindberg Line kits are my least favorite. They seem to be the bottom feeders of the model car kit market. They have some antique/classic kits but lack details.
    
3. My favorite kit is the Mercer Raceabout. Aurora seems to have the best model. This one has very nice details and looks great when properly assembled. Does anyone know of a Mercer kit in a larger size? I'd love to get one in 1/12 scale.
    
4. Never could afford the Hubley metal kits. Do they have enough detail?

[Scale Automobile Models now has its own sub-forum.]

Thank you very much. I look forward to reading this sub-forum and possibly buying some kits.

I have a small stash of unfinished antique car model kits -- I'll get to them someday.

 

I especially like the old Pyro kits, although they have gone up in price considerably. But what hasn't.

[1957 Buick Power Steering Leak]

The products are all the same. Go to Amazon.com and search for "oil leak detection kit." There are some kits under $20-30 that contain the oil dye, flashlight and tinted glasses. You don't need anything expensive because this is a single-use case. 

 

Get the product with the most stars.

 

If you don't have Amazon, then just Google "oil leak detection kit" and go from there. 

 

If you plan on using the kit more than once you should upgrade a bit. And you can always purchase more dye.

[1957 Buick Power Steering Leak]

Recommend you purchase an oil leak detection kit for under $20 and determine exactly where the leak is coming from. You put a few drops of dye into the power steering system, let it run a few minutes and then examine the area with tinted glasses.  The leak stands right out.

 

Save me some time with my Buick.

[Trimmers - Question About Diamond-Tufting]

nsbrassnut,

 

Thank you very much for the instructions. Just what I need to try it myself. 

 

Greatly appreciated.

[Trimmers - Question About Diamond-Tufting]

Alan, 

 

Thanks for the additional info.

 

I know Mel Draper and have purchased some leather practice hides and horsehair from him. He is also a fountain of knowledge for one-cylinder REOS. Very nice guy.

 

[Recommendations for 1-cylinder coil box rebuild]

Harold,

 

Thanks for the response. I regularly peruse the REO 1 & 2 cylinder website for info and get a lot of info. Sadly, the talent pool is shrinking each year.

 

I have talked with you on the phone about restoring my REO during the past year. Your advice has been helpful and I am very thankful. In my opinion, you and one other person are the only people in the U.S. who can work on early REOs.

 

I will be in touch.

[Timing question on 69 v.w.]

Adjusting your distributor via a vacuum gauge is a time-honored method. You're adjusting the timing via the greatest vacuum reading, and then backing off a bit. 

 

You are getting the best engine performance, regardless what the factory says the timing should be.

In your case, with a built-up engine, it's the only way to go.

[Trimmers - Question About Diamond-Tufting]

I have received a lot of valuable advice from the trimmers on this forum. Thanks for help us amateurs out.

 

I'm building a brass-era speedster and want to reupholster my seats. I'll be using leather and horsehair padding. No foam or sewn pleats.

 

Question. I want to practice first using vinyl, but have heard that vinyl does not fold the pleats properly like leather. Is this so?

 

It would be much cheaper to practice a few times with vinyl, but I do have some leather hides that could be sacrificed for the greater good.

 

Also, what backing to use to attach the buttons? I have heard about a fabric called Versare and also FlexPad.

 

I know the complexities involved but want to try. There was a 1-cylinder REO for sale on the HCCA website recently - the ad stated they paid over $8,000 for the diamond-tufted the front seat. The seat looked beautiful, but I am not prepared to spend that for my raceabout seats.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

 

[My new 1930 Nash 8]

Fix up the engine and interior and then drive it as-is. 

 

You'll get a lot more attention than if you completely restored the car. 

 

[Painting an 1956 Jaguar XK 140]

Go to the TCP Global website (https://tcpglobal.com) and select their Auto Color Library (https://www.autocolorlibrary.com).  You can get any color you want in Acrylic Lacquer (so long as you don't live in California or a similarly-regulating state). Some of the color charts go back to 1929. I have purchased acrylic lacquer from them, including custom colors, and the quality is excellent.

 

They can match any color you need if you have the paint code, too.

 

 

[1930 Franklin 145]

PFitz,

 

Thanks (once again) for sharing your Franklin expertise with us. Greatly appreciated.

 

Jcb3, could you elaborate on your Franklin problem? Maybe you don't have to remove the engine.

If you're not a member of the H.H. Franklin club, you really should join. Very friendly, helpful people, as you can see from above.

 

https://www.franklincar.org/index.php

 

[Is DuPont paint with 10 year warranty worth]

Yep, Axalta is what it is called now. The painter till calls it DuPont?

Sorry, but sometimes I still call PPG "Ditzler".

 

Deadpurpledog, I wouldn't worry about the warranty.

If you buy a well-known brand and use their related primer, primer/surfacer, thinners, basecoat and clear coat as a complete system, you'll be OK. Mixing manufacturers can sometimes lead to problems if you don't know what you are doing.

 

Most important, proper preparation is the key. You'll spend 90% of your time preparing the car and maybe 10% actually spraying the final base coat/clear coat. When you're preparing the car for paint, good enough is not good enough. 

 

And read the Technical Data Sheet for each product you use. Follow its instructions and don't listen to what someone on the Internet says.

 

Dupont Axalta and PPG are great brands, but don't be afraid to look at TCP Global or TP Tools, either.

[Not Mine - 1930 Packard 745 Roadster Project for Sale in Ware, MA - $15,000]

I think it's rather cheeky of the seller to note that "additional parts that can be included at the buyers discretion."

 

So, he has extra parts for the car, but they will cost you more?

 

[Thanksgiving Drive]

Elitist question of the day:

One of these is not like the others:

• 1947 Jaguar
• 1929 RR Phantom
• 1930 Bugatti
• 1939 Delahaye
• 1966 Ferrari 275 GTB/C
• 1930 Ford Model A

But I'll bet the guy with the Model A has more fun with his car.  

[The "I thought I had heard everything" thread for today]

I forget who said this first, but it's a great observation:

 

The world is divided into two categories: 

1. Countries that use the metric system.
2. Countries that have gone to the moon.

[Project Thread: My 1929 135 Victoria Brougham]

Edwin,
My Franklin mentor had two 1929s, one of them a Victoria Brougham. Black fenders, wire wheels, pale yellow body and dual sidemounts. I maintained the car for him when he finally became too old to wrangle tools.

The car was a great runner and a joy to drive. You will love driving yours.

[Santa, Gun running in a 1903 Stevens - Duryea]

Love that ad. A real keeper.

[1994 Cadillac Fleetwood]

If you haven't already done so, pay for a set of factory service manuals -- paper, not CD. I've done this for most of my everyday drivers and they have proven invaluable. 

 

Look for them on Amazon or eBay.

[Recommendations for 1-cylinder coil box rebuild]

Thanks for all the above advice. I think the car was running 60-75 years ago. At least there are wires going from the timer to the spark plug and "coil box."  I've been reading the Early REO Group postings to get more information.

 

The adventure continues.

 

[Can't get car to raise up - 1969 VW Karman Ghia with an air ride suspension]

Don't use barbed fittings with loctite - tighten the hoses with small hose clamps. You'll guarantee no leaks.

 

J-B Weld is just a band-aid. Go one step deeper to solve the problem.

 

Been there.

[Recommendations for 1-cylinder coil box rebuild]

I have a 1-cylinder Briggs and Stratton coil box (synchronizer). 

 

Can you recommend someone who can determine the condition and repair as need?

 

It belongs to my 1908 REO Model G. Not factory-correct but it's all I've got.

 

I'm trying to get the engine started after it's been sleeping for over 50 years. Any advice or recommendations for people who can help will be gratefully received.

 

Also need advice on who can rebuild the radiator.

 

Thank you.