gungeey
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Posts posted by gungeey
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On 5/17/2024 at 9:13 PM, CHARLITO said:
To 61polara , Steele Rubber doesnt do it . To TTr Yes, I tried Andy Bernbaum ,he doesn't do it. To dep5 LIke I said (Then and Now )their website is actually far below lame; it's misleading . The person that created it told me that she has no control of it anymore. Also to dep5 , No photos in your supplied photos from Then and Now ,mention the word TRANSMISSION. I see what appears like my Transmission left and right supports that are shown in the photos as part 600603 labeled something else. And now I read your 2nd post TTR, where you seem to be saying that it's almost impossible to deal with the only people that might actually do the revulcanizing of these parts. Maybe I read you wrongly? And c49er, The phone #s at (Then and Now) are impossible to leave a messge ,and much less to have someone actually answer . Details must be spoken of when dealing in a business -like manner,like how do I know that my mounts get to the shop if I send them? And , how do I know how to deal with the money that has to change hands. And if it should take a week to rebuild them perhaps they won't be ready for six months. This is no -way to be representing a major place to handle antique car business. So, What's the answers? Thanks to all of you ; I'll be eager for your replies.
I'm close enough to Then and Now in Weymouth MA to drive my parts there and pick them up.
They are far far far from a "major" place to handle antique car business.
Picture a shoe cobbler sized shop. About the size of 2 bowling lanes.
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46 minutes ago, RivNut said:
If this Anthony character is using his association with the ROA to solicit business and not following through, contact Ray Knott, ROA Director, and he’ll remove Anthony from the ROA and possibly get him removed from this forum.
Nobody knows that. What we have is a picture of a pickup bed full of wheels, and a guy named Anthony in TX recently started an account on the forum and offered the wheels and other stuff for sale.
Not in the wheel market, but if I were, my small dose of common sense would tell me to hesitate sending out the money order.
Not badmouthing Anthony. He may be the most pleasant, honest fellow in Houston.
It's tough this day in age popping up out of nowhere and try and start selling stuff on the internet with zero history.
I'd be game for an original dash and center consoles if the guy was driving distance. That would be my comfort threshold
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17 minutes ago, Marvin Moore said:
My riv has drums all four around. There is a member in Houston that advertises driver guality 802s for sale. Goes by the name Anthony and is a member of ROA. Are you familiar?
Marvin, I think everybody and their brother are waiting for word of successful sales with Anthony.
Wanted: Guinea Pigs/Crash Test Dummies
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When The parts car needs a parts car... it's Double the Money$$ Double the Fun!! 🤪
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Those ports source heat directly from the two middle exhaust valves ports. Cyl 3 and 5 passengerside,4 and 6 on the drivers side. Follow the coat hanger
That might help make sense
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43 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
I just sold a complete 1965 Console on eBay for $260 CAD. I paid much more. My strategy now is procrastination, not impulse buy.
Now looking for a sturdy box to send it off. The shell is perfect. Of course, woodgrain and lens and chrome has normal wear & tear.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355630797623
That was a real good deal 👍
For no breaks that was cheap cheap cheap like a bird sings
No wonder it sold quickly
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42 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:
Funny this should come up. We just had a big Full Classic come into our shop that has a 12V "upgrade." All-new wiring harness with a distribution block under the seat, all very professional looking. But when we got up close, we found that a lot of stuff didn't work. Gauges were wonky, only one headlight, only one taillight, brake lights stuck on. Work had been done by two different "experts" to make it work and the owner was proud of the job. The minute the thing came off the trailer and I saw the brake lights burning away, I knew it was going to be a headache.
So we started taking it apart. Here's some of what we found:
Wires changing color mid-stream, Pep Boys connectors, dangling wires not connected to anything, a whole bunch of issues. And the icing on the cake? When we got to the headlights, we found this:
Yep, the headlight bulb is glued in there with some kind of caulk.
I pointed all this out to the owner and he was understandably upset. He's taking it back to the most recent wiring guy to give him another try, so we'll see what he comes up with. I have a great electrical shop that will sort it out, but it will come at a price that will probably shock the seller. This is what happens when guys try to reinvent the wheel. In essence, they believe--as many do--that the 6V stuff is unreliable and that we're smarter now so it will work better with modern stuff. Funny how a 6V bulb would have snapped right into that headlight there.
I've found that mechanics who don't understand how things work are always the first ones to say that stuff doesn't work and try to change it into something they do understand. Carburetors are confusing, so bolt on some kind of fuel-injection-in-a-box. Points and condensers are black magic so you throw an electronic ignition in there. It all works better, right?
Right?What Full Classic has a serpentine belt with an idle pulley like in that 1st picture?
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Here's what your getting:
Don't know whose car, here's the 2 1/4" pipe with Waldrons Mild Imposter:
Would grate on me quickly, but what do I know, to each their own.
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I use a spare oil pan, it's marked where the filter goes
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How much worse will they get before they are proclaimed NFG?
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Sounds like you have an A/C car. The shroud, the starter, water pump are all readily available aftermarket. A usable original fan may prove tough to find. You need a fan clutch also.
The bolts other than the 4 rocker shaft bolts are hardware store. Those will be used.
If you are a member of BCA or ROA you will gain easy access to vendors that sell the used items.
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Jerry, SS carries a bit of a"tingy" sound that you may or may not notice or be bothered by. Stainless is nice for good reasons like looks, longevity
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Stanley, Ok, I will keep on posting.
I didn't say titling was impossible but I do say it's incomprehensible that you wouldn't get an answer to your question PRIOR to your purchasing and shipping a car from Europe.
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Congratulations with your acquisition, If it were me, I would get that question answered by personnel at the PA DMV and by them only.
As an aside, it's amazing how some people can go through life seemingly unscathed whilst having not a care in the world.
Others, myself included, make valiant efforts to avoid problems yet still get burned.
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Shouldn't "couch potato internet wizard" be on there somewhere? Seems befitting for some reason.
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I would load the cable up with some pb blaster let it soak overnight. Next day undo the most accessible cable end and try to work it through its range of motion with a pair of pliers. Might take two or three passes.
I believe a guy on v8buick.com is parting out a car, might have what your looking for if you'd can't be salvaged
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I consider myself quite fortunate in this regard. 1st Generation Rivieras have been my hobby cars, never felt the urge to deviate and continue to find the next one that "rings my bell".
Have the few specialty tools one might require and the spare parts (most of the time). Prices for the parts I don't have but need are getting rather prohibitive. It was a lot more fun and carefree when it was cheaper.
Still, They really are the ultimate hobby car for me.
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For your dash, the color you are looking for would be Dull Aluminum, but not a metallic.
Yes brass fitting is oil sender locationthe fitting is for aftermarket gauge
63 64 65 all have different heater hose configurations. First two years (don't know which yours is) are a cluster$$gůčk from the beginning. What you have now is a bastardized version, someone with experience in aftermarket A/C should be able to help plan out your system
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The adjusters are right and left handed threads. The motion with the tool to relieve some tension is from bottom of backing plate towards top. The actuator stops the starwheel from getting backed off unless it's pushed out of the way with a second tool. Refer to old Germans pictures from the manual.
I wouldn't spray any type of penetrating oils that would contaminate the shoes unless you plan on replacing them.
Worst case scenario is grind off the heads as EmTee says, but that shouldn't be necessary on a running driving car
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there should also be a brace from motor mount to underside front of pump bracket. It's about 3/4"× 15
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I stand corrected and fixed it
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In answer to your question: I take back roads
As far as the editorial, why not post some pictures.. you can get your car judged online here free of charge as you sit on the couch 🤣
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Post some pics of your Rivieras!!!!!!!!!!
in Buick Riviera
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A beauty 👍