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rhb1999

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Posts posted by rhb1999

  1. I have been thinking about this since the question came up. What if there is a better more modern way to get at the same thing? How about using urethane foam, the expanding stuff you get from lumber yards that is meant for sealing cracks and holes?

    Cover your part with fibreglass for a smooth hard surface then cover the fibreglass with a few inches of foam to give it body and make it rigid. You could even stick some steel or wooden braces in the foam.

    Easy to do and should make a good mould without costing too much money.

    They sell foam in liquid form too.
  2. What they did after the plug was buffed and waxed was, they sprayed a tooling gel coat over the whole thing to a specific thickness, then with a chopper gun (a device that sprays resin and catalyst and at the same time cuts fiberglass rope from a spool via a cutter wheel) the plugs were "skinned" using tooling resin made for high tempurature and strength, then alternate layers of fiberglass mat, woven roving or fab-mat (mat and roving bonded together with starch) to a thickness consistent for a mold. Fittings for compressed air had been installed in the plug, as well as "pull tabs" for attaching grappling hooks to pull the mold from the plug.

  3. The part your going to make a mold for (called a plug) should be perfect. I worked on a plug for a 28' boat out of wood then they sprayed the hull and superstructure with a primer called Duratec (I think it could be sprayed thick if needed) then we sanded everything with 150 and 220 grit and then it was able to be buffed to a high gloss. Re: the video, I don't think it would have taken much time to to put plywood butt strips underneath at the hood seams.

  4. From the photo it looks like it could be for the GMC 228/236/248/270 inline 6. 1939-48. I believe in 1949 the exhaust was turned rearward. Casting numbers would help with the exact year.

  5. Thanks, hursst. Ok, This engine has this code 17K444516, (9 characters) and it looks like '67 or '77, but the pictures on the site I looked at showed a '67 having a code 7A175291 (8 characters) and '68's with codes 18K23?80, 18B23000, 18Z137810. These having a resemblance to the code on this engine except for the second character being an 8. This is only a block, but it looks old. The pistons have valve reliefs, would a '77 350 had come with these?

  6. Thanks, hursst and NTX5467. I'll look at the website. I'm hoping it's a '67, I understand this was the first year for the 350? This is only a block, but it looks old. The pistons have valve reliefs. A source I read said that the partial vin should have an "8" for the '68 model year instead of a "7" for this sequence of numbers.

  7. It should be remembered also that Chevrolet got a new engine for '57, the 283 a very good engine 185 hp with a two barrel 220 with a 4 and up to 270? with the Ramjet fuel injection. It was made for ten years, by '67 it had a 195 hp with a two barrel. I understand Ford outsold Chevrolet that year , but the Fords that year had valve train problems. I know this because my father in law said he bought one new.

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