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WillBilly53

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Posts posted by WillBilly53

  1. Just in case anybody else has this problem, I thought I'd post my success: It turns out there seems to be some nomenclature discrepencies with the manual and parts book. In the manual it states to gently lift the glass out of the sash channel. What the manual would call the "sash channel" is actually just the "guide" according to my parts book. There also doesn't seem to be a cam like on the front doors. Once the pivot bolt is out, the window really does just wiggle out, albeit I had to spray a little PB Blaster on it AND I loosened the screws attaching the window regulator. The window regulator seemed to be providing some tension and binding it; keeping the glass from being able to wiggle out. I got both windows out and was able to remove the rear quarter trim. Now, I just need to remove the windshield and back glass and I can start painting the body!

  2. That's a great idea, John. I'll have more info from Mom when I see her next weekend. I was looking up 1949 production info and although PawPaw's was a Sedan, I noticed the Sedanet (sp?). I did a google image search and, holy cow the sedanet's look hot! Love the "fastback" on them. I'll need to finish my '53 before I can even look at 49's. I think it would also be cool for me to do a real restoration of a '49, per PawPaw's original, as my '53 is my first car and I've done a lot of customization :)

  3. I've been fooling with this for a couple of hours now. I've removed the rear seats and panels. I've removed the pivot bolt as the manual says, but then the manual says to carefully disengage cam from glass sash channel. There are no cam screws that I see (like on the front door glass) It simply wont budge, i thought i could gently wiggle it out but I obviously don't want to break the glass. Any ideas?

  4. I can't seem to figure out how to remove the outside door handle. I see in my manual and parts book that there is a handle retainer. I see that it essentially slides out. I've removed the weather stripping and support, but I don't see any screw, as the manual mentions, that is holding the retainer to lock pillar face. I've looked on the inside of the door and I see is the retainer, but no screw or anything else seems to be holding it. It seems like it should just slide out, but it ain't budging. Do I need more PB blaster or am I missing something else?

  5. Thank you Rob! I just got off the phone with Mom and she remembers it being a darkish gray. Upon my research of paint chips for '49, this leads me to believe that it was either Bahama Blue, Sunmist Gray, Elan Blue, or possibly Mariner Blue. I'm leaning towards Sunmist Gray. I'll show her paint chips next weekend when I see and hopefully she'll be able to confirm. She told me that she has some more photos as well. Her and my Dad are compiling a list for me of GM dealers that they remember during that time. They said there's a friend of the family that probably knows who sold the car to him. It's a small town and everybody knew everybody so chances of at least finding some leads are pretty good. Thanks for the info and help, everybody.

  6. WillBilly, where is home, might help if we knew where this '49 lived?????

    ha-ha! my apologies - long week. Shelby, NC would be the area in question. It's a small town. I contacted my Mom to see if there are any surviving friends or acquaintances of his that may have some knowledge of the dealership that he bought it from or who he may have sold it to (if that's what happened to it) My uncle Bill (his son) has the majority of his belongings and there's a very small chance there may be some receipts or something.

  7. This might be a shot in the dark, but either way I hope you dig the photo. This is my mom's dad's 1949'? Roadmaster (edit: Super). He served in WWII and was on the front line in Battle of the Bulge and survived. After coming back to the states, he purchased this baby. He had a drinking problem that was exacerbated by the war and eventually had a stroke in the 70's I think, just before I was born. I remember visiting him many times and he was a sweet man. Mom has told me he was a very fun loving guy and amazingly generous. He most likely sold the car, or lost it in a bet. No one knows. She said he never talked about the war. After his stroke, he could only say a few cuss words and nothing else. He eventually learned to write his name with his right hand (he was left handed) and managed to get around with a cane (He lost use of his left arm after the stroke and some use of his left leg) He succumbed to various ailments back in the mid 90's. R.I.P. William Mundy Lineberger.

    I hope that wasn't too heavy, but I thought a little backstory was in order. I'm hoping that someone could confirm that this is indeed a '49 Roadmaster. And the shot in the dark is - How would one go about trying to find this exact car? I know it's probably futile without any kind of (as of yet, found) documentation or VIN number, but I have to at least ask. I'm going home next weekend and hopefully Mom and I can find some more photos and maybe some other leads. Either way, I hope you all enjoy this photo!

    post-31222-143139096137_thumb.jpg

  8. I'm in the process of finally painting the 'ol girl and have come to an obstacle. The teardrop trunk lock had been jacked before I bought her. I found 2 on ebay for $75 from Bell Buick but neither has a set of keys. My question is can keys somehow be made from just the cylinder? I also found what looks to be a generic repro for Chevy/Olds/Buick (with set of keys) but it's not the tear drop style. Another thought had crossed my mind and that was to shave the trunk lock and install a manual release kit (Speedy has one for about $20) and run it through to gas tank door for access (I'm not doing a restoration, more of a rod-resto or fix 'er up) Anyways before I make my decision I wanted to know if there was a place that might have reproductions of the teardrop style (I didn't see any on Bob's or ClassicBuicks) I need to make a decision of either keeping the hole for the lock or filling to shave it before I can continue painting. At this point, I'm leaning towards shaving it (please don't through the tomatoes too hard!) Thoughts?

  9. I'm going this year and it will be my second (I took my Dad up to Flint in 2003) I've been meaning to renew my membership for some time now, but I was laid off last year and honestly can't justify the $50 renewal fee right now. I did land a job recently and thankfully they are cool enough allow me a couple days off to attend. Rather than give you the multitude of reasons why I don't usually attend, I'll give a couple of reasons why I'm attending this year:

    I live in Athens, GA and Charlotte/Concord is only about 2.5 hours away.

    I grew up in Kings Mountain (30 mi west of Charlotte) and my folks still live there (free place to stay and catch up time with parents)

    These two factors allow me to save more money on travelling/lodging and put the saved money back into getting my car finished.

    My '53 was coming so close to being somewhat roadworthy - not judge-worthy. I was hoping to have her completely mechanically sound and 90% cosmetically finished and drive her up there, but doesn't look like that will happen. Either way, I feel it's a unique year for me to attend as I have made much progress on her and the Nationals are in my home state. I think I'll be even more rejuvenated to get her on the road after attending. I'm looking forward to meeting other members that have helped me out and that will be attending.

    and the last reason, but not the least, is that North Carolina is an absolutely beautiful state with much to see and do. I'm always looking for any reason to visit home. :)

  10. We can all regroup at my folk's pad down the road in Kings Mountain if ya'll want :)

    Plenty of room and Mom's got plum shine, grape shine, peach shine, straight shine, etc. She gets it from one of my cousin's who knows a fella in Tennessee. I can fire up Dad's grill and make kabobs!

  11. thanks for the info everyone. I've definitely decided to run single exhaust as it was intended. From what I've been reading and what others on here have said, it doesn't seem that dual exhaust would really improve performance and some places have suggested it could actually impair it. That's a bit of relief for the wallet. So it looks like Waldron's is the place to be. I hope I can get her ship shape for Charlotte...

  12. cool thanks, Jim. I noticed that Waldron has an actual dual exhaust conversion set for the 53 full size. Classic Exhaust has the duel set for '56-'74. Are their actual performance benefits to running dual or is mostly for cool factor? I'll be reading more in the meantime...

  13. So Marie and I took Naomi around the block for her very first ride yesterday. Man, what a high! I think she might be running a little rich, but I found a post about that.

    My question is where have you all purchased your exhaust systems? She currently doesn't have an exhaust system and didn't have one when I got her so I need everything starting right after the manifolds and on back. I've been searching around the internet. I found this place: Stainless Steel, Aluminized Exhaust Systems, Domestic 1919 - 1970's - Classic Exhaust Inc.

    I really like their prices. So much that I'm debating the dual exhaust set. I'm looking into get a mild steel or aluminum unless it's hands down that I should bite the bullet and purchase SS. Kanter's prices are kind of wallet damaging for this little buckeroo, so what do you all suggest?

    I also came across a bunch of articles for making your own custom exhaust. I'm not concerned about originality for this as I want her to be a daily(ish) driver. Any thoughts on this?

    as always, thoughts, advice and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

  14. How in the heck do you drive the new seal squarely? I've been fooling with this for over an hour. Been lightly tapping criss cross but the opposite im tapping on inevitably pops back out. The top area is pretty hard to even get to because of the lack of clearance from the body. I've used various blocks of wood, curved tools and even the old seal on top -all with the same result.

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