WillBilly53
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Posts posted by WillBilly53
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I've been looking around at all the different places that offer retrofit seat belts and would like ya'll's advice on what to get. Since the '53 is pillar-less it seems the option of a 3 point system will not work so I'll be getting the 2 point lap style. My main question is: Are retractable type lap belts safer than the non-retractable type or is it just for convenience to "move around - fiddlin' with the radio, etc." while driving? The price difference is pretty big between the two types and I'm not one to save a buck on safety, but if there really isn't a difference safety wise, my wallet sure would like the less expensive option. Any thoughts?
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Thanks Leif! Got it installed!
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I found it! Do I need to lube it with any grease (or trans fluid?) or can I just install it dry?
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Excellent! Yep, that seems to be the part, Robert, thank you for the photo. Thanks Leif for the detailed information and thank you Mike for the confirmation. My memory is a little swiss cheesy - I'll double check through my big vortex that is my garage of parts and make sure I didn't "used to" have it. If not I'll give Ken a try. Thanks again all!
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Was going to hookup the speedometer cable but noticed the Dynaflow seems to be missing a part? Could someone take a look at the photo and tell me if there is a threaded part that goes where I've indicated. And then the cable screws on to said part? Do I have the installation procedure correct in my head? And if so, any ideas where I might pick this part up? Thanks!
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found it! (maybe help somebody else too)
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Could someone with a '53 post a photo of the underside of their hood? I'm having trouble attaching the two bars and triangular shaped cover piece. I think the triangular piece helps stabilize the hood ornament. I can't remember how it all goes and I don't see anything in my manual or parts book. I could have sworn I took photos, but alas I did not (or they accidentally got deleted) At your leisure of course. Thanks!
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awesome, thanks guys! Can not wait to hear her this weekend after I install everything!
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thanks Johnny, that's sort of what I was planning on doing. Excellent how to, thanks man!
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yeah man, music too my ears! you got me beat by 10 years. I bought my non-running '53 with V-8 back in 2002. Got it running around last March. There's nothing like that first time getting her started!
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i'm pretty sure Steele Rubber has them.
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The gaskets for my exhaust pipes are going to be here tomorrow and I'll be ready to install the whole exhaust system. I'm assuming I need to use a sealant on the gaskets. I'm also assuming I need a high temp sealant? Can someone recommend a brand or what specifically I should use? Or correct me if I'm not to use a sealant at all. Thanks!
(1953 Super V-8 with new aluminum exhaust)
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Lesson #587: don't put a 1157 bulb where a 1034 should go. Correct bulb has been inserted and tail lights work! She'll be roadworthy, yet!
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Ground problem?
I know, Willie!
It's getting kind of ridiculous. I might need you to come to Athens and beat me over the head with a 2 gauge cable labelled "GROUND" to get it through my thick skull. Is it possible the fender itself is not getting good ground?EDIT: Come to think of it, that doesn't make sense, because the turn signals work fine.
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She fired right up, but damn if that left tail light didn't go out again! I can not figure that one out.
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Thanks Lamar! You da man!
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Excellent replies, thank you all so much. The battery and cable are new, but it was indeed a grounding issue. I wiggled the ground cable around at the motor mount and suddenly everything light up. I surmise that when I tried to start her it shook the ground cable connection just loose enough. Looks like I need to get the sandpaper out, clean up that motor mount and really secure the ground cable connection there. Thanks a bunch for the explanations and electricity 101!
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Went to start the 'ol girl yesterday and she was trying for about 2 seconds and then everything went dead. Nothing. No lights. I thought after all the electrical work that I've been working on that I had run down the battery enough that trying to start her just killed the battery. I fully charged the battery overnight. I've been messing around with her all day today but I can't get anything. No headlights, turn signal, radio, dash lights, dome light all dead. I've tested everything with my voltmeter and everything is getting correct voltage. So power is travelling, but nothing is on. Very strange. Any ideas what would cause this?
EDIT: fuses and bulbs are still good
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I've reassembled all the front end components (fenders, bumper, grill, etc.) and was wondering what I can use as a point of reference to start shoring everything up. The hood isn't lining up correctly with the fenders. I was wonder if the hood can be adjusted left and right or is it pretty much dead nuts once installed? When I attempt to close the hood there's about 3/4" gap on the passenger's side fender and about 1/4" over hang on the driver's side fender. (I hope that makes sense) Any tips?
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so here's the latest. a real head scratcher:
Headlights off: Tail lights work perfectly
Parking Lights on: Right tail light works perfectly (dim and then bright) Left tail light stay bright, no change.
Head Lights on: Exact same as if Parking Lights are on.
I'm thinking the switch is somehow faulty?
EDIT: Got them working! Man, that was a real hair puller. The bulb in the left tail light, although new, seems to be a little faulty. I replaced the 1034 with an 1157 and everything works perfect now.
Thanks for everyone's help. A mixture of bad socket, grounding issue, switched wires and faulty bulbs. all in a week's work!
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, the description you repeated is what is going on. I've attached an image of the wiring diagram from my manual.
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so the replacement pigtail for the taillight came in today. hooked it up to an extra bezel with the original socket. I get the same result. However, now I've noticed that when the headlights are off, both taillights glow bright and go dim, responding to the brake light switch correctly. When the headlights are on or park lights are on (middle position on the switch) the left tail light glows one filament and the right tail light still glows bright. I'm guessing something at the light switch now? I'm going out with my girl for some tacos and gonna pull the headlight switch and give it a once over tonight when we get back. Everything at the fuse panel is correct. I guess I didn't install the wiring harness as "perfectly" as I thought.
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I think you're right Willie. I've blown 2 fuses, the dash turn indicators now aren't working and the left brake light now only burns one filament. I've order a replacement pigtail to work with the original socket from Eckler's. I think that aftermarket socket is part of the problem. Until it arrives I'm gonna move to installing the exhaust system
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alright - good news. I got both tail lights to glow bright and go off when I depress the brake light switch. Turns out I had the wires to the aftermarket socket flip flopped AND the bulb was not seated all the way
. But I do have another question. When the headlights are on, should the brake lights be on slightly and then glow really bright when the brakes are hit? Or do the parking/back up lights on the bumper provide the lighting for night time driving? (I hope my question makes sense)
. But I do have another question. When the headlights are on, should the brake lights be on slightly and then glow really bright when the brakes are hit? Or do the parking/back up lights on the bumper provide the lighting for night time driving? (I hope my question makes sense)
Seat Belts for 1953 Super
in Buick - Post War
Posted
excellent Thanks Bill and Mike! and Thank you John for the clarification on the lengths. I wasn't sure which to go with. Much obliged, all!