BP

Thanks for your support. ... And YES we still have calendars available. We are grateful for your orders.

The Yankee Chapter of the BCA is offering 2003 Classic Buick Calendars for sale, as a fundraiser. The calendars are 11? X 17?, and contain 13 months (Jan 2003 through Jan 2004) Each Month Pictures a Classic Buick (8.5 X 11) with Calendar below The Pictures are all classic Buicks restored by Yankee Chapter Members. Also listed are Event dates (AACA meets, BCA events, etc.) that may be of interest to Automobile Enthusiasts. Calendars are $8.00 plus $2.00 Postage and Handling. The Chapter will still appreciate your support If interested, Please make checks out to Yankee Chapter BCA Send to ?Yankee Chapter? c/o Bob Poole 273 Ross Hill Road Lisbon, CT. 06351 Thanks!

In case you missed our Ad in the Buick Bugle? The Yankee Chapter of the BCA is offering 2003 Classic Buick Calendars for sale, as a fundraiser. The calendars are 11? X 17?, and contain 13 months (Jan 2003 through Jan 2004) Each Month Pictures a Classic Buick (8.5 X 11) with Calendar below The Pictures are all classic Buicks restored by Yankee Chapter Members. Also listed are Event dates (AACA meets, BCA events, etc.) that may be of interest to Automobile Enthusiasts. Calendars are $8.00 plus $2.00 Postage and Handling. (I feel compelled to tell you up front, that there are no Reatta?s in the collection this year ? but next year there will be. I promise. Nonetheless, the Chapter will still appreciate your support !!!) If interested, Please make checks out to Yankee Chapter BCA Send to ?Yankee Chapter? c/o Bob Poole 273 Ross Hill Road Lisbon, CT. 06351 Thanks!

In case you missed our Ad in the Buick Bugle? The Yankee Chapter of the BCA is offering 2003 Classic Buick Calendars for sale, as a fundraiser. The calendars are 11? X 17?, and contain 13 months (Jan 2003 through Jan 2004) Each Month Pictures a Classic Buick (8.5 X 11) with Calendar below The Pictures are all classic Buicks restored by Yankee Chapter Members. Also listed are Event dates (AACA meets, BCA events, etc.) that may be of interest to Automobile Enthusiasts. Calendars are $8.00 plus $2.00 Postage and Handling. Your support is greatly appreciated! If interested, Please make checks out to Yankee Chapter BCA Send to ?Yankee Chapter? c/o Bob Poole 273 Ross Hill Road Lisbon, CT. 06351 Thanks!

PROBLEM<BR>My IPC Blanks out or Illuminates erratically in high temperature conditions. In addition to the blank IPC the CRT periodically alarms<BR>indicating an "ELECTRICAL PROBLEM Has Been Detected". (Note the CRT is fully functional whle the IPC is essentially BLACKED OUT)<P>I say this condition is temperature related because it has occurred in the winter when my defroster has been operating for a couple hours at MAX heat the IPC has BLACKED OUT. And most recently last week in 90+ degree weather it FRITZ'd out again. The condition clears shortly after shutting off the car for 20 to 30 minutes.<P>Data<BR>During the last occurrence I monitored trouble codes as follows E026 was in<BR>history and cleared during the condition. B336 was current and would not clear.<P>Questions<BR>Q1 - Factory Service Manual info for error code B336 says B336 can only be<BR>viewed as a history code ? but it was current when I viewed it, so I'm<BR>confused by this feedback in the FSM.<BR>Q2 - The FSM goes on to say a single intermittent open CKT 343 would set<BR>this code. ?. I have not been able to identify CKT 343 in the FSM. Could<BR>someone help me identify CKT343 maybe tell me what page in the FSM<BR>references this CKT?<BR>Q3 - Whats the Link between B336 & E026?<BR>Q4 - Any thoughts as to the link between Temperature and IPC behavior?<P>As always, Thanks<BR>VR<BR>bp<p>[ 08-15-2002: Message edited by: BP ]

Buy the second Reatta. <P>Explain to her that you could help but notice how much she was enjoying driving her Reatta .... Soooo you got a second one for HER as a back-up. <P>That way if she had problems with hers ... well she could drive the second while the first is in for repairs.<P>And as long as her first was running fine ...Well , you would just ... ya know, keep it "excercised" and ready for her ...<P>This way your actions are all about HER and ensuring her needs are well cared for ... <P>Buying the second Reatta is really the only option a Good Husband Like yourself has in a situation like this... <P>The Defense Rests!!

I had a similar problem with my 1989. Only my IPC would go Blank in the winter when I had the defroster blasting and Max Heat! <P>I pulled out the instrument panel checked for good connections and reinstalled. I found no electrical connection problems. This Black OUT happened 3 or 4 times after reassembly - <P>It dawned on me that it only happened when the heat was High and on defrost. Now I just run the heat and defroster at a lower temperature. I have had NO repeat Black-OUTS since.

I was perplexed by a recurring Amber light issue recently myself. <P>I suggest starting with the Brakes section on the Reatta web page <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/brakes.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/brakes.html</A> and then try using your Service manual to see what if any ABS error codes you may have stored in your ALDL. <P>After you’re “armed” with data from the testing and identify any error codes present. Share that info with members here and they will be better able to help you.<P>Good luck

Not sure what you mean by the term "Panels" to remove. I found mine relatively easily, the green remote wire was behind the trunk carpeting in the trunk. Drivers-side just above the ECBM on the wheel well.

I had a similar problem with my 1989 Reatta. It was so rough I was convinced it was some sort of mechanical problem. Transmission slipping or something like that. I discussed it with my Buick Service Manager, he suggested / suspected a weak ignition coil and maybe new wires and spark plugs. I was shocked at his response, but he was so confident with his diagnosis I took his advice.<P>After replacing the coil, wires and plugs. The bucking is GONE. The car performs smoothly at all Rpm’s and under any load conditions. It took me about an hour and a half to replace coil, plugs, and wires. I spent $54 for new Wires and Plugs. It was time consuming feeding wires neatly around / through alternator and those funny looking heat shields were a surprise too. Regarding the ignition coil, be sure to keep track of the wire connections under the coil. Care needs to be taken to keep track of which wire goes where as you tip the coil upside down so things get reversed. I think the new coil was about $100.<P>Good luck<BR>VR<BR>bp

Tom<BR>Thanks for this new information. I thought the ALDL was only used for Brake Problem Diagnostics. I thought ECM error codes were extracted through the CRT by pushing the Climate OFF & WARM buttons at the same time. <P>So now I have a new question. Is there a difference between error code retrieval from the ALDL & the CRT? Or are they just different ways to obtain the same information. <P>I’ve had my 1989 Reatta for about 9 months now and I still feel like a complete idiot. I don’t know where I’d be without this forum. <P>Thanks again<BR>VR<BR>bp

I have a friend near Hartford Connecticut who may be able to help you out. He mentioned to me he may sell his Reatta convertible. Send me an E-mail and I'll try to hook you & him up.<P>VR<BR>bp

My wheels need work. How decent is half decent? Your Price sounds VERY Reasonable. Is there a difference between wheels form 88 to 91? I have an 89. Could you email some pictures. Any Idea what shipping would be to Connecticut?<P>Thanks<BR>bp

Thanks for the INFO.<P>Did they tell you what was wrong / what they repaired?<P>How long has it been since repairs were completed. <P>Is the work warranteed?

Thanks Again!!<BR>So its ok to align the connector to connect up to either of the 2 Orange wires on the other side - as long as the trunk solenoid cycles when the key is turned. Right?<P>You guys are so helpful! Cant wait to get that tail-light assembly back in. <P>Thanks Again<BR>VR<BR>bp

Ok, all you Reatta Super Hero’s. Please rescue me from the Perils of my trunk switch wiring<P>Today I disassembled the taillight assembly to access the trunk lid key switch. I did this because the key would not open the trunk. I found the connector disconnected, which sounds like a simple enough fix, reconnect it and move on. Upon closer inspection I found 3 wires on one side of the connector and only 2 wires on the other (the key switch connector had only 2 wires) <P>On the Key Switch side of the connector, the Black wire was in the center slot (labeled ‘B’ on connector) and an Orange wire in slot ‘C’. (Slot ‘A’ was empty.) On the mating connector, again the Black wire was in the center slot (labeled ‘B’ on connector) and the Orange wires were in Slots ‘A’ & ‘C’. The ‘C’ prong was corroded away on this connector. (Which may explain why it was left disconnected.)<P>Soooo, Can somebody tell me why there are 3 wires on one side of the connector and only 2 wires on the other side? (It just seems odd to me)<P>Can I reconnect the switch to either Orange wire? <BR>(Wiring Black to Black and Orange to either of the other two Orange Wires seems to work. Hooked up either way cycles the trunk solenoid.) <P>Also, If I turn the key to open the trunk and leave it turned the trunk solenoid cycles about every 10 seconds or so. Is this normal or is the switch bad? <P>I also tried pressing and leaving depressed the trunk push button in the glove box, when left depressed the trunk solenoid again cycled every 10 seconds or so. Is this the way it’s supposed to work? <BR>Or …<BR>Is this an indication my trunk relay is shot and needs to be replaced? <BR>(I am using wiring diagram on page 8A-134-2 in the service manual but I sometimes have trouble translating the drawing in to what I see in the trunk)<P>There is no better Discussion Board on the planet. Thanks for always helping.<P>VR<BR>Bp

Not sure what in particular perks your interest about this car in California, But I saw a Red with Grey interior convertible at the Plaza Ford - Flanders Road, East Lyme, CT 06333. I looked at it - its in pristine shape. Salesman said he was looking for $12K so it sound like you could get it for close the the price of the California Car. and its a bit closer to VA than California. Here's the phone number if your interested. (860) 739-5403. Happy Haggling!

Thanks!!<P>VR<BR>bp

Comrades<P>I need some part number help if you can I have a 1989 Reatta<P> The Mirror adjustment switch that sits next to the window switches on the center console<BR> The Front Windshield Pillar cover (Driver Side)<BR> Exterior Driver Side door Molding (Black)<BR> Trunk latch switch.<BR> Trunk latch solenoid.<P>As always Thanks<BR>bp

ANTI_LOCK LIGHT Mystery Solved! Today I continued troubleshooting the AMBER ANTI_LOCK LIGHT problem I have been chasing on & off for months and diagnosed the problem to be with the Reservoir Level Switch. Specifically the A &B Contacts. After the Service Manual Identified the Reservoir Level Switch as a potential problem, As Padget suggested, I installed a jumper across the contacts and continued the diagnosis in the SM. NO other problems were identified. (thank-fully!). <P>I have temporarily left the jumper between the contacts installed until I can get a replacement reservoir & switch. <P>THANK YOU ALL for your patients and support through this endeavor. <P>Now it’s off on the next adventure … “The Chattering Trunk Solenoid”<P>Thanks Again.<BR>VR<BR>bp

Can somebody explain to me where I can get the part number info on-line if all I have is the noun name of the part?? <P>Its easy to look up if you already know the part numbers but if all you have is the noun name I don't know how to get there from here. How do you get the part number?<P>thanks again<BR>VR<BR>bob p

Padgett<P>Thanks for the response to my post and congratulations on your 1,000th post. <P>Sounds like I didn't miss any Service Manual Steps. I did try to jumper the contacts on the switch but I did not get the anticipated response and it was late so I stopped to regroup. <P>I should get my pressure test rig Tuesday (My new best friend was going to re-machine it over the long weekend) Hopefully that will shed more light on the subject.<P>I'm curious about your feedback and your reference to pressure. I'll have to look at the schematics again. these electrical drawings are still confusing to me but I will preservere and figure it out. <P>Another question I had is the ANTI-LOCK DIODE. That was another surprise! Mine looks like a diode crammed into an electrical connector and was wrapped with electrical tape. IS that how its supposed to look? And does it have a GM part number too? <P>thanks again<BR>VR<BR>bob p

Gee - I feel your pain. I have been trying to resolve a similar issue. <P>I would check the reservoir level. From what you describe, perhaps the light comes and goes could be a result of reservoir level changes do too braking. Also the jolt when you hit the RR Tracks could have caused a level change and cleared the alarm. I'm no expert (though I'm getting there with ABS) <P>Please let me know how you make out.<BR>Good luck! <BR>bp

OK – The saga continues …. I Replaced Both Main and Pump Relays Today with New ones. (Both Old ones tested SAT but none the less 2 NEW have been Installed)<P>Also Today I was bold enough to disconnect the 36 PIN connector on the ECBM and step through the trouble shooting steps in the Service Manual for “ANTI-LOCK LIGHT LIT NO CODES LOCKED IN” (I don't have the special PIN BOX the SM speaks too however i was careful not too cross contacts)<P>Results were as Follows<BR>Step ONE - IGNITION OFF - Measure Resistance PIN 1 to Ground. Results = .2ohms (SAT)<BR>Step TWO -IGNITION ON - Measure VOLTAGE between PIN 1 and PIN 2. Results = 12.5 Volts (SAT)<BR>Step 3 - Measure Resistance PIN 9 to PIN 10. Results = > 5 ohm (Mine was infinite) (UNSAT) SM says - Go to Chart B2. <P>B2 Begins Top Off Reservoir, Disconnect Reservoir Level Switch and measure Resistance PIN A to B. Results = INFINATE … Chart Say REPLACE RESERVOIR! <P>Please! could somebody review and Validate these findings (did I miss a step in the SM somewhere?)… Also What function does PINS C & D perform and LASTLY anyone know the GM part number for the reservoir?<P>god i love this car<P>thanks again<BR>VR<BR>bp

Barney, In an earlier POST you indicated you had a test rig for testing ABS pressure. <P>Could you tell me the dimensions of the Brake Test Rig you have. Specifically I'm interested in the total length of the tool (not including the accumulator) and the distance from the end of the tool to the gage tap. (doesn't matter which end you measure from as long as you identify which)<P>Also there is a small bit of tube that extends into the end of the accumulator from the connection on the brake housing ... is this to prevent air intrussion into the system when the accumulator is removed?<P>thanks<BR>VR<BR>bp