BP

Purple may not have been an official color but my Burgundy 89 Does Look kinda like a dark Purple. I could see how others might call or think it Purple and NOT Burgundy.

You could check the ALDL connection under the dash near the E-Brake and see if any ABS codes LOCKED IN. Or have your mechanic check the codes. <BR>If a code "SET" that will give you some insight why the light LIT. <P>If no codes are SET then problem I suspect is PRESSURE related ... maybe Accumulator, Pressure Sensor. Although Reservoir Level or Low Voltage to ECBM may also cause the light.<P>I been wrestling with my AMBER Light for a couple months now. (My light goes out occassionally but is on for the most part)<P>Good Luck!

I have an 89 Reatta and had a similar seat switch malfunction.<BR>The Part number for the seat switch is 20106274. I recently purchased one new from a GM Dealer in Mystic Connecticut. The cost of the new replacement Switch from the dealer was $30.81. Subsequent to my purchase was able to Clean the contacts on the old switch and get it working so now I have an expensive spare. <P>I just checked on "GM Parts Direct"(http://gmpartsdirect.com/) They list the part as 20106274 "Door Window Hardware" at a cost of $18.49 (Not sure why they call it “Door Window Hardware” but I know it’s the right switch because I’m holding it in my hand)<P>Hope this helps<BR>bp

I can switch relays around again (Your refering to the relays mounted close to the firewall near the center of the engine compartment ... right?!!<P>I disconnected both last weekend and sprayed both with contact cleaner and reinstalled them<P>I could replace them both too for that matter - I think they were only about $10.00 a piece. <P>Thanks<BR>bp

Barney - Thanks for the offer of the adaptor.<BR>I just found a new Best Friend at work who offered to fab a a test rig for me. Could supply some ruff dimensions from your test rig. I have the old accummulator to detemine thread size & fit but Rig dimensions would be a perc <P>Thanks again to everyone <P>VR<BR>bp

padgett <BR>The procedure in the fsm has you turn key to run - this starts pump and pressurizes the system - then install the jumper - then read the 1st code - then remove the jumper and reinstall to read each subsequent code. <P>Initially I thought the problem was electronic but after reviewing the Service Manual It seems an electronic problem would be detected by the ECBM and captured - with NO codes locked in I think the problem is up front with system pressure or switch as it appears these problems are not locked in the ECBM - Also low voltage to ECBM may be a problem too<P>I think I'm stuck unless I can determine what pressure the system is operating I'll have to figure a way to fab up a test rig like the one in the fsm (2000+#'s justs adds some adventure to the process) ... and voltage to the ECBM (low voltage to ECBM may be a problem too) I afraid to troubleshoot the ECBM in case I "Toast" it in the process.<P>Stay tuned ... I shall perservere.<P>Thanks<BR>bp

I double checked my ALDL connection Confirmed pin “A” (top left) to “H” (2nd from bottom on right) still NO Codes yet Amber Anti-Lock Light was always lit. <P>I depressurized (by pumping brake 25 times) and turned key to allow pump to pressurize system 3 times. Amber Anti-Lock Light was always lit. No Codes at ALDL or CRT. <P>thanks again<BR>bp

Thanks for the rapid responses - Its the Amber Light and NO Codes have ever "set" for as long as I been chasing the problem. All three Relays have been replaced with no affect. <P>Do you know if ABS system for 90 Cadillac Deville is compatible with my 89 Reatta? I have thought about swapping components between them since my Caddi seems to be working OK. I hate to just keeping throwing parts at the problem but the Diagnostic tools are just as expensive at this point as the parts. (Sorry ... just a small meaningless whine from a frustrated Rookie)<P>Thanks a heap for your help<BR>VR<BR>bp

I have been struggling with my Anti-Lock Brake Light for a couple months now. I thought my last round of trouble shooting linked the Accumulator as the problem. So I ordered a new one from GM Parts Direct and Saturday Night I installed it. <P>After I replaced the Accumulator. The Anti-Lock Light was Out for about 45 minutes!! I was flying high - I was just about ready to declare Victory ...Then outta no-where ... There it was!! I looked down and it was lit!!<P>I checked the ADL by installing the jumper, only code 22 came up (not sure if disconnecting the battery cable might have caused this to come in) but when I drove it to reset it and checked again that was cleared but the Anti-Lock Light was still lit. It been sporadic since.<P> I'm thinking maybe the pressure switch is shutting the pump off before the Anti-Lock Light can clear. But with out a test rig (which I don't have) I'm really grasping at straws<P>Any thoughts? Thanks!

Last Call!! <BR>Its hard to believe No one in this area owns a Reatta or that everyone is too bashful to admit it.

OK – Friends Here are the results from my Brake Test. Please review the results and give me some feedback. Any additional insights, or suggestions would be appreciated. I’m kinda new in this arena, so any feedback from those of you with more experience is very welcomed. It would help me, if you could review & validated my findings or perhaps suggest some additional checks I can do.<P>Initial Conditions:<BR>RED BRAKE Light OFF Anti-Lock Light was LIT. NO ABS Codes present when ALDL was jumpered. NO BCM, ECM, or CRT codes active or in history. <P>Test Results are as follows:<BR>Test 1 – Conditions = System Charged,Car Running: Count the number of full pedal pumps to turn on Red & Yellow Lights (Results = 9 pumps)<BR>Test 2 – Conditions = System Charged,Car Off - Count the number of full pedal pumps till pedal gets HARD (Results = 29 pumps)<P>Note: Test Procedure has you check fluid level at this point – My Fluid Level was about .25inches above the fill line at this. I left it at this level for the first test then drained it to the Full line and re-ran all the tests a second time. – NO change was noted in any test results.<BR>Test 3 – Conditions = Charge System and "TIME" when lights go out and pump stops. (Results = Red Light out after 36 seconds. Yellow Light out after 38 seconds note the Yellow light stayed ON throughout the second test.)<BR>Test 4 – Pump Stops running. (Results = Pump stopped after 45 seconds)<BR>Test 5 – Conditions = System Charged,Car OFF How many pumps till pump starts (Results = 2 pumps)<BR>Test 6 – Conditions = System Pressurized Measure distance from fill Line (Results = .75 inches)<P>Conclusions:<BR>I feel test results lean toward accumulator replacement but are still somewhat inconclusive. <P>I did note some audible change in pump speed as system was charging, however, the change in pitch was much nearer the end of the pump run than the 2/3rds the notes suggests. This makes me lean toward the accumulator as the problem.<P>Other Notes:<BR>In Brakes Section from the Reatta.net pages it indicates – "No ABS Codes are stored when problems are caused by Pump/Motor, Accumulator, Pressure Switch, or the Fluid Level Switch.<P>Questions:<BR>Anyway to test the Pressure or Level Switches to eliminate them as the cause?<P>Thanks again for all the help you have already provided. I really am enjoying the maintenance, its fun peeling the onion to get to the problem. You all have been very helpful<P> - Sorry for such a long POST!<BR>Thanks<BR>bp

Window & Mirror Lighting has been restored, although I remain baffled. <BR>If I Slip the plug on the shift illumination strip all goes black. And with the shift illumination strip disconnected again all remains black. <P>With a separate 12VDC source to the inverter the Window & Mirror Lighting works<P>and tonight I was fiddling around and by accident discovered that with the the plug on the shift illumination strip partially installed the the Window & Mirror Switche Lights work. <P>So apparently the only part requiring replacement is the Shift Light Strip. <P>Where I fall off the wagon is why Does the 12VDC go away with the shift illumination strip plug fully seated or why does partially seating the plug restore the other 2 switch lights??<P>Thanks for all your support<BR>bp

Restore to it's "New to You" condition just like you remember it in 96! Then drive, Reminisce, and polish the memories ... <P>Enjoy<BR>bp

Welcome Aboard!! Its nice to see someone from New England!! Its a great place to spend time learning everyone here is very helpful.

Thanks <BR>Only the Amber Anti-Lock Light ever lights. <P>The Red Light only cycles initially when the car starts and then it goes out. But my friend the Amber Light seems to come & go as he pleases. <BR>I will Cycle through all the recommended tests outlined in the previous POSTS but braking functions and pump cycling appear to be OK. I'll confirm & conduct the tests to be sure. <P>I tried looking at the schematic again tonight but I get "cross-wired" quickly (pardon the pun) I'll get smarter in time (no place to go but up!!)<P>What would cause the Amber ANTI-Brake Light to light up & No Codes to Lock in? <P>Regardless ya gotta love this car .....<P>thanks<BR>bp

Anti-Lock Brake Light!! Mine lights periodically! Every Time I start up the car the question looms, WILL IT or WON"T it be on this trip?? Sometimes yes sometimes no!!<P>Doesn't seem to be any reason for it either! No codes read-out when you jumper the ADL (I think that's what its called - the little test box under the steering column) No BCM codes!! Sometimes it comes on and clears while your driving (did this once). But mostly comes on at startup and stays on for the ride!<BR>I have checked connections under hood and at the ECBM, all seem good & tight! I check for error codes whenever the light comes on but never get any! I'm hesitant to spend the $250.00 for the 32 pin test box the Service Manual calls for to check ECBM inputs, and yet I also hate to give up and let the Dealer have a whack it either the ANTI-LOCK BRAKE LITE WINS!<P>I read old posts and thought maybe it was the Main Relay on the fire wall playing tricks with me, (That seems to have plagued others in the past) I replaced it and thought I had won, But alas, ... NOT! About six light free starts later the Anti-Lock Brake Light !! was lit and Grinning at me while I drove! - <P>Any thoughts??!! <P>Your friend<BR>bp

Thanks - I got some great help from a local GM Foreman - I Tested my inverter it works fine 12VDC in gets me 110 VAC out (and a bit more) hooked up the console switchesto inverter back in the car and nothing! Then I substituted a test 12 volts instead of the installed 12 VDC to the inverter and subsequently the window and mirror switches illuminated via the inveter - when i connected the Shift Strip ALL went out! <P>So based on my results I have concluded that my 12VDC input to the inverter is "missing" and that the Shift Illumination Strip is also malfunctioning FUBAR!<P>Alittle more time, a little more love, a few more scraped hands and fingers and a little more help from my friends and we'll get this thing figured out!<P>Thanks - Any insights would be greatly appreciated!!<P>bp

I need some insight on the illumination of the console<P>1) The connectors for the switch illumination on the Shift Strip, the Window Switch and the Mirror Switch, how can I test them to see if there is juice there? Does the Service manual speak to this topic? Page numbers would be a great help (I glanced through it a couple times and found very little about the illumination of the console or the 110 Inverter.) When all is working, What lights up?<BR>2) If the 110 AC inverter is the power supply for the shift illumination strip, and nothing on the console lights up I suppose I should replace it first. Is there any way to test the inverter to see if it’s bad?? I have read some of the Previous Posts on this issue but none seem to summarize the topic. Pagett referenced testing his, anybody know which posts to connect to 12V DC and which to read 110 out?<BR>3) Also the question of Part Numbers and the differences between the dash and console inverters? Rong (in his POSTS)had done significant research with Endicott Research Group, Inc in NY but I never saw any final info in the old posts regarding interchanging inverters between console and dash or their availiblity & price.<BR>If anyone could shed some light on these topics I would appreciate it (no pun intended) <P>Thanks<BR>bp

Congratulations & Best of Luck! Everyone here shares your passion for the car.

Any Reatta Owners/Aficionado's nearby? Eastern CT or RI. Looking for nearby Reatta neighbors. Please E-mail if interested.

Thanks<BR>Does the Service Manual reference the Clip anywhere???

The instrument lights for my Shift Indications do not illuminate .... ya know "P"ark "R"everese "D"rive . <P>Anyway I don't see anywhere in the service manual how the Shift Knob comes off so the rest of the console can be lifted over it & off to access the lights. Can Somebody help the "Family Idiot" please?<BR>Thanks<BR>bp

I am experienceing a sorta similar problem. However mine is intermitient. After Touring for about 1.5 hrs my IPC goes bizzerk kinda like you described, the speedometer, gas gage clock and odometer all go Black and the idiot lights all light or randomly light and stay lit (once all went black and no CRT alarms were noted that time). This phenomonom has occured now four times on trips. everything else works cruise, CRT ... The EO26 code shows up in diagnostic history everytime and the CRT alarms indicating Electrical Problem detected or Computer Problem detected (depending on wether the EO26 is cleared or not). Also BO36 is locked in (I assume because IPC is lost). I have done some troubleshooting for the EO26 code and heard all my solenoids "Click" as the service manual indicated. (Cold wether and an unheated garage have slowed my pursuits)<P>If I wait 20 minutes or so and restart the car "All is Well Again" and both EO26 & BO36 Clear.<BR>I have also pulled and reinstalled the IPC and checked the connectors but the problem still occurs.<P>Have you checked for any Error codes? Not sure how much help this brings. But misery loves company!! I'm confident the "Family" here will peservere and help solve the phenomonom. If I find out more I'll post it<P>Gee, I'm starting to feel like part of the family!!! *S*

I followed your directions and cleared out all historical codes. I checked for new codes the last two days No NEW ERROR Codes and NO repeat Dashboard Lights Phenomenons!! Thanks again my to my Reatta family "Wizards"! You have removed the Electrical HEX from my Reatta and now all that remains is pure driving Enchantment ...<P>Thanks Again from the "Family Moron"<BR>bob p

How do I clear off the codes?