Paul S
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Posts posted by Paul S
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On 5/5/2024 at 9:13 AM, Buick35 said:
Thanks,I've got another exhaust manifold coming but would a cracked exhaust manifold cause an intake leak? When I get it I'll have it machined down flat.
If the int and exh manifolds are 1 piece, or even bolted together, and the exh. is warped it could possibly hold the intake away from the block.
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I see in another post the manifold is cracked. Did you check for flatness before reinstalling. It is very possible it is warped, that is why the intake leak.
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Mopar parts book. Group 9-46-90. part number1853901. The notation (3) indicates it was used after the engine numbers mentioned earlier. The notation in front of the part number designates the number was not used in any previous parts books.
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you have Hollander #344 and you should have #345
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37 minutes ago, moparmike said:
Yes it came out of the car with the engine attached. Has some cracks in it so welding is an option but prefer not to. Since this is a restoration. It is a very late 57 year car. So may have 58 parts.
That number is a late'58 number. I will post the interchange for that number in a while. Some thing is not correct. That bell does not belong in that car. Is it an air cooled or water cooled transmission??
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6 hours ago, moparmike said:
To TTR Casting numbers 1853901. Do you have 1
that number comes up as '58 Ply LP2 after engine #LP8-132171, and '58 Dodge LD2 after engine #L325-41951 , so stated in the 55-58 Mopar parts book. 59 might fit? I will look in the Hollander when I get a chance.
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Be careful on setting timing, the vac. chamber retards the timing unlike most cars where it advances it. So, at idle with full vac. the timing will be late. Also be sure you are running metal core plug wires.
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Beautiful car!!! I was looking at it when it was for sale, to go along with my '28 Dodge Fast Four and my '28Desoto.
28 Desoto.
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20 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
As an engineer, I'm curious to understand how wedging a pin into a crack pulls it together.
I have 2, 3/4" thick pieces of steel with 1, 3/8" diameter x 5/8" long pin inserted in the joint. I have had a man beat it off of his trailer and it has not come apart!!
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I do not know what experience the other people have. I have welded aluminum castings, and we have done a lot of metal stitching. The pins we generally use are made to actually pull the crack together. It is your decision. I just put in my 2 cents, and it apparently was only worth 1 cent.
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On 10/17/2023 at 11:41 PM, bjly92 said:
Hmm seems to be a lot of controversy, Pinning seemed like the safer way to go but I was also worried that if the pins dont hold then we just weakened the crack further, as mentioned in my original post I have only heard of this technique recently.
Welding seems like the more permanent solution but I am worried about the heat. Does anyone know if it would be affective to stuff a wet rag or bag of ice in the cylinders while welding the aluminum to help keep them from warping? or would they just be more prone to warping because of the large temperature difference?
I'd also like to take the time to thank everyone for helping me out with this. Of all the forums I have posted on this is the only community that has helped support me rather than come up with clever ways to tell me my block is junk.
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We are located in north east Pa. and could possibly do the cold repair with aluminum pins. Tig welding requires a lot of heat. Normally on something that size, the whole block would have to be preheated, and you do not know what impurities might be pulled out in the welding process possibly causing a disaster.
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How about a twin stick and don't use the clutch!!
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I am in need of a 1926 International S24 tie rod and yoke, SF and SL 34 and 36 are the same. Thank you
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9 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
nice,theres a lot still to be found up in this area ......but not those sizes much,i have a lil stover left ,sold off the rest
Thank you.
That load of engines came almost all the way across Pa. on Rt. 80. So talk about shifting in the mountains, I did my share LOL!!!
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20 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
those are some big hit n miss on there or is one steam ?
arcticbuicks
The 1 up front is a 94hp. 2 cyl. Blackstone Diesel. The only one in the USA. In the rear are 2 35 hp. Superiors side by side. The Blackstone is about16K lbs. and the superiors about 8K-9K each. Oh and there is a little 4 or 5 hp on the upper deck.
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Our '59 Mack B61 with a triplex, 5+3 trans. 3 large gas engines on 1 load, grossed at 57K lb. and hauled them 250 miles. 2nd photo is a 45,000 lb VTL frame. And 3rd delivering a Rumley Oil Pull. And the Mack has a AACA Senior award.
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DB26
How did you make out with this project?? I am currently working on making a new coil for mine.
Paul
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I believe the rings are crimped onto the bucket.
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I had J.C. Taylor since 1978 until this summer. I wanted to add a 12th car and they gave me a hassle. I went to Hagerty got more coverage for the same price and no hassle. My vote is Hagerty
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Sad to hear, he will be missed. May he rest in peace.
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I have done it, and I am not to far away from you.
is it cracked or completely broken off ??
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'59 B61 Mack at work
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Type A Automatic Transmission Fluid?
in General Discussion
Posted
The trans in our '54 Packard should be type A. For some reason after doing some research I wound up using "B&M Trick Shift fluid" and it worked well.