Bhigdog
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Posts posted by Bhigdog
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Thanks. That's a great start for my search. Much appreciated............Bob
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Long shot but thought I'd ask. I'm trying to resurrect a Kellog American 321 compressor with a bad rod knock. it's an oldie with poured con rod bottom bearings. If there is a reference somewhere that lists bearing inserts with dimensions it's maybe possible there is a size insert that i can use to modify the rods to inserts. If not it's off to the scrapper. Thanks in advance.........Bob
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Small town or not that might be just a tad too trusting.
That said, I take my 39 Chevy JC pick up to breakfast most mornings and do leave the key in the ignition. Of course anyone that would steal it wouldn't have a clue as to starting it and even if they got lucky getting it running they couldn't figure out how to drive it.
"WTF is that stick coming out of the floor for? And what's with all the pedals? No cup holders? Where am I going to put my weed?"...........Bob
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Roger that. If the fronts show significant improvement i,ll also put on new rears. I won, t get the shoes until monday. A report will follow....bob
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16 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
Ah, Olds. I was looking up 55 Buick. Maybe investigate the Wagner Z160R friction material.
Funny you should mention. Rockauto just now came up with a front set of Wagner Z160R's for Olds and they should be in the mail. Wagner advertises them as "Quick stop" linings made to match OEM specs. I'll post results maybe next week..............Bob
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FWIW.........I topped off my 39 chevy trans with 85/145 because that's what i had on hand. Very noticeable difference in the shifting. Synchronizers are not working so nice. I'm going to drain it and go back to 90W..............................
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No fronts for 55 Olds, just rears. I'll check again........Thanks...........Bob
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The power brake shoes on my 55 S-88 just don't have enough stopping ability. Does anyone have a shoe recommendation that they know has a high coefficient of friction. Fusik has shoes but they won't comment on stopping ability...........Bob
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If one is here long enough and is interested in participating, who they are, what their interests are and their bio will become apparent. If one just drops by for some advice or info and then splits, so what. In any case a thank you for the help should be offered without fail........Bob
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15 hours ago, swab said:
I have flintlocks, small cannons, mortars etc . . .
Me too. The golf ball mortor really barks but I haven't found a ball yet...........Bob
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16 hours ago, 1912Staver said:
Joe, you would like the way that the really big studs are tensioned on ships and other very large machines. The stud extends well past the " nut " . The nut is actually just a large cylinder of steel, no hex. Just a series of small radialy drilled holes close to the top of the " nut ". To tension large sleeves are fitted over the nuts. the sleeves have slots milled through them coresponding with the radial holes. Then large hydrulic jacks are screwed onto the part of the stud that stands clear of the stud. the correct pressure is applied to the jack stretching the stud the correct amount. The nuts are then wound down with small pieces of round stock that fit the radial holes. Just snug then back off slightly. { usually 2 or 3 of the radial holes , the manufacturer specifies how much } . The hydralic pressure works through the sleeve to the head surface and pulls upwards on the stud. Then release the jacks and remove the jacks and spacers. Presto , a 100 % correct tension on the stud. To correctly tension fasteners of this size with conventional hex tools would be very difficult. The jacks make it quite easy. The jacks and sleeves are rather heavy however, if you are tensioning many studs at a go { like a full set of heads on a marine diesel, or a set of foundation bolts }. By the end of your shift you can tell your body has had a real work out.
This is the way the compressor/turbine stack was clamped together on at least one of the planes I flew. I think the tech said they jacked until they saw 50,000 pounds psi on the gauge then snugged up the nut that held it all together. He didn;t know what that translated into for the amount of linear stretch to the shaft.........Bob
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My thoughts would be unless you get a certification sheet with grade 8 (or any) bolts you are rolling the dice as to alloy and yield strength. I'm guessing that is true of many hardware store bolts. Pretty easy to add a couple of extra lines in the heading die at some Chinese bolt factory. Just saying.........Bob
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On 1/25/2022 at 12:31 PM, Matt Harwood said:
Occasionally Rocky would head-butt one of the dogs and they'd be like WTF, bro?
That's just the nature of the beast.
My dad had a sheep, a ram, that just LOVED it if you kicked him in the forehead. To him it was like "Oh yeah. Game on." Best be prepared for a kick/butt fest or just beat feet to safety............Bob
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It will look like modern super glossy street rod paint on your beautiful 1922 stock Chandler..........Your choice..........Bob
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Be easier to answer if we knew your budget, number of helpers available and estimated entries. Since you have an eatery a voucher for a hot dog and soda, on site, for each entry and guest might be better than yet another dash plaque. BTW they make excellent mouse hole patches. Speaking of awards I'd much rather have a gift certificate to your fine establishment than yet another trophy. They both eventually end up in the same place. ............Bob
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10 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:
A bad pump (leaky check valves, etc) will not, even though it may run OK after dropping a capful of gas in the carburetor.
As an aside, I was at the Macungie show a few years back and my 57 Buick would not start/run. No gas at the carb. I primed the carb and it started and would run as long as I kept the RPM up. I drove it about 2 miles like that. When I got home and tore the pump apart I found one of the check valves had dropped completely out of it's seat. As long as I kept at least a fast idle the carb drew enough vacuum to pull gas up and out of the tank...........Bob
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An ounce or so of gas down the carb, once or twice, will do the trick 99.44% of the time.....bob
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Well now you know of one, Me. One local rag and the WSJ delivered daily.
25 minutes ago, m-mman said:On the left coast newspapers are all online (by subscription)
You do realize that Cal is a whole nuther country, if not world?...............Bob
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44 minutes ago, m-mman said:
Nice idea, but where do you get a newspaper today? 🤔
Today you can ask for a photo of it in an unusual place. Like on a toilet tank or kitchen sink to prove it’s existence.
44 minutes ago, m-mman said:Nice idea, but where do you get a newspaper today?
Same place he got the pix of the emblem..............google....................
As an aside, I get two newspapers delivered every day and I take pretty much everything they say with a big grain of salt. But they do give me something to do while I enjoy my daily beer and cigar................Bob
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Have him send a picture of it on current daily newspaper...........bob
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1 hour ago, Steve Moskowitz said:
This car built on a 39 Ford truck chassis
Given my druthers I'd much druther have the Ford truck............Bob
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8 hours ago, Littlestown Mike said:
My memory of the #7 Binks is having a friend shoot my car in 1966 and not being able to see anything when he was finished as the cloud of paint was that dense.
Too much pressure and/or wrong cap............Bob
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3 hours ago, Dandy Dave said:
Last count was around 900 trucks attended. More photos. Dandy Dave and Bhigdog. 😁
Really nice to meet you, Dave. You're a remarkable guy really enjoying life. Thanks for all the great pix. I think the Macungie truck show is way overlooked by the car folks. Some amazing old iron there to be appreciated. Hopefully your pix will attract a few more car guys next year. Spectator admission is FREE..............Bob
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Nothing like a Binks #7 @ 50 pounds pressure................Bob
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X-reference or catalog for con rod bearing inserts.
in Technical
Posted
Pump is too far gone.... It's off to Cat Tail foundry to be turned into something useful..............Bob