Seldenguy
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Posts posted by Seldenguy
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Roccodart446--I just dug out my Olds book and what I found is that they only made two models of coupes in '31. The standard business coupe(2 passenger) and the sport coupe (2+2 in rumble seat).The picture shows yours to be the standard business coupe. The standard coupe came in two wheel options 5 wooden wheels as yours or 5 wire wheels. Production for your car was 1059 units built, the base price was $845. The five wire wheel car production was 1364. As mentioned by Paul the bumper/spare wheel was an option but "not mandatory", this option was listed as an additional $ 20, but did not include a tire/tube. Your engine number does fit into the early production run, but I am puzzled by the X after it. I have seen General Motors stamp an "X", as denoting export, where are you located? I assume you are going to restore this car as it appears to be worthy of it. Best of luck on this great car. --Bob
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Hi Herm-- No one has responded yet. What I have is the two hooks with the strap missing. I could make a repair but need to know the length. Thanks for asking.-Bob
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Tom, it appears that the outer race was seized to the hub around the threaded end where the hub cap screws on. When you pushed the bearing race out the threaded end of the hub broke off. I see no repair that will fix your problem(safely anyways). Your best bet would be to start a search to find a used hub, plus check the other side for signs of abuse, you may need a pair. Good luck in your search. --Bob
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jerry, they just sold one at the Leake auction last weekend. I know it is to late, but you can get the feel for what a real nice one is worth. It was nicely restored. --Bob
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Does anyone have the overall length of the 1914-15 Ford Special speedometer cable support strap (end of hook to end of hook)? And in reference to this same setup the length of the cable from the speedometer head to the right front steering spindle drive unit ? Thank you for any assistance! --Bob
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Impala- The info on the club informational placard has been in the past six issues of the Antique Automobile magazine dated from May/June 2012 thru Mar/Apr 2013, perhaps even further back as Steve suggested they have been promoted for two years. Also, there's no mention of them as you stated above in the May/June 2013 issue. Does it not seem odd that you can only see the current issue on line? If the prior issue "Mar/Apr 2013" was viewable on line the placards are quite visible in this issue. I hope this helps your online search, good luck. On line is sometimes a useful tool, but personally I do not read periodicals on line, I favor my recliner. --Bob
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Is everything only on line? I have read about the signs in the AACA's premier magazine "The Antique Automobile". Join the club, and read the magazine. --Bob
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Tom, that is a great thread you started below under domestic makes & models on your Hupmobile. Looking good, --Bob
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Tom, your '10 hupp should have 30X3 tires on it. At least my '11 has them and I believe they are original and the same as the '10. If your wheels are not 24", apparently someone has changed them sometime during its lifetime. I would measure the flat(bottom of the rim) to the flat(bottom of the rim) on the opposite side to get the wheel diameter in inches. Then as Layden suggests this gives the basic number to which you add the cross section in inches doubled. And that is the tire size needed. I also feel the correct tire size on the rim is an important safety factor. Good luck in your efforts. ---Bob
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Chris, I don't know if changes were made on the 40 series from 1936 to 1937 or not, however my '36 shop manual on page # 11 says "On the series 40 it is first necessary to remove the rear main bearing before the flywheel bolts can be taken out permitting removal of the flywheel.". Sometimes they made running changes during the production run and also from year to year. I'm quite sure the '37 shop manual would address this change if there was a change. Have you had a chance to check out Jeffs suggestion above? Perhaps it is the practical mechanics way of beating the "flat rate". In '36 you have to drop the pan to remove the rear bearing cap, however your shop manual (1937?) said not necessary. Good luck and post what the solution was. --Bob
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Hi Gary, there have been many discussions about these engines here on the AACA forums over the past several years. I suggest an extended search of past threads. Just out of my inattention to your Moyer, does it have a Herschell-Spillman engine? American underslung collectors are always on the prowl for these. Bob Barrett in Angola (?) has two of these cars and may have some info also. Are you coming east this summer? If so, I will be looking forward to our visit.--Bob
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Money pit, here in New York state you cannot title a motor vehicle from a casting number, other states I am not familiar with. --Bob
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Google "custom made car covers" there are several that supply this service. --Bob
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Matt, one of the important things to advertise on a car of this type is to provide the engine number. This identifies the year of the engine. It should be stamped above the water pump. Good luck with your sale. --Bob
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Bernie, the same thing happened to my Kodak stock, worthless today. Yeah, I know I should of sold it when I saw them struggling several years ago, but hope springs eternal. One of life's lessons learned I guess. --Bob
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My 1934 N.A.D.A. (Dated May) offical used car guide, shows the following, 8 cylinder standard 5.50x 17 with 127" W.B. and the 8 cylinder Custom Dual Ratio 6.00x17 with 127" W.B. and 6.50x17 with 136" W.B. It appears many contradictions depending on whom writes the book. Also The 12 cylinder in this book lists three different sizes, including 7.00x17, for 1932. I believe most cars today are using the 7.00x17 --Bob
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Tom, I think your owners or shop manual will tell you that 7.00X17 is correct. --Bob
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Keith, I agree with Dave on your choice of wheel restoration. It looks very nice and will add a nice "flair" to the interior, and with the dash and glove box door to match, you have very good tastes. Good luck. --Bob
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Trevor, take the two bolts out, carefully separate the two halves feeding the wires through the holes. They will now be exposed to the internal connections. Unsolder these bad wires, replace them with new and like sizes. Reassemble and I would be surprised if it did not work. Most these motors seldom ever burn out the stator or rotor windings, if it still does not work then you do need a replacement. Also oil that little felt dust seal that the shaft runs through. The rewiring should only take you 30 minutes and if the motor runs you have saved $45 + shipping. Good luck in your efforts and let us know if you fixed it or had to purchase one. --Bob
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Stuart, Everyone has the right to restore or modify their car to suit their personal taste, I have no quarrel with that. However I can not find research where the dash of the '36 was painted a body color in production. My '36 sales order color page shows the dashboards to be"Chancellor Gray Metallic" ( my opinion, almost black) on the 40,60,80,and 90 series.The original '36s I have owned and others that I have seen (12-15) carried out this color. The instrument panel, glove box door, and window garnish/mouldings graining I would best describe as "marblelized" in a light Gray. Good luck in you restoration work! --Bob
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Bill, If you can't get the bolts threaded the way you need them let me know. I know a company that will make any bolt, any thread,and any length. ---Bob
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I believe the foam sealer you speak of was originally a foam rubber "doughnut" that has deteriorated during the years, as I recall about a 1/2 inch thick. Without looking I would assume the solder spots are what hold the interior anti sloshing baffles in place. I agree with RonJar on the float replacment. I also would pursue your method of repair for the strap ends, while you could make a simple die and hot roll new ends on a flat strap, why bother for what your doing? Again my personal thoughts. --Bob
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I have located a complete President differential if you still need one. Please send me a PM for name and phone number.--Bob
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I think that any flare nut that is purchased from the local NAPA store will be CNC machined and will look far from the authenic look that 'hursst' wishs his car to portray. These original nuts can be found at many flea markets and in the hands of club members. I admire hursst's thoughts on his car being original and not following the crowd of doomsmen! --Bob
Watson Stabilator Webbing
in Franklin
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I believe there was an article a few years ago in the restorers magazine "Skinned Knuckles" that showed the steps in restoration. --Bob