Chacheska
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Posts posted by Chacheska
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The tank is out and the feed line is at the top of the tank with a 90 degree elbow coming out of it. I put that Sta-bil in about 8 months ago and can't remember the interval between adding it and driving it to storage but most likely just a couple of days because I've always done that to my other cars. I buy my gas from a local Indian reservation because the gas is 20 cents a gallon less than anywhere else and I've been buying it there for my other cars for the last 11 years. They make their own fuel so I'm not sure what's in it. I got another suggestion. Because of the brown color ad the honey-like consistency of the goo a friend of mine thinks it may be sugar in the tank! He thinks a liner would be a different color and more stingy in texture. This has a greasy conistency to the touch, almost like lithium grease. Still haven't heard from the former owner although I looked through my notes to see that he had the tank bolied out when he owned it.
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Wanted to add something. I did drive the car for a couple of hundred miles before adding the Sta-bil and it ran fine. I added the Sta-bil and drove it about 15 miles when it quit on me. Even though it may not have been the stabilizer it just happened to quit after I used it. If it was gasahol (and I don't think we have any in this area) how long would it take to disolve the liner? Any suggestions as to what I can use as a strainer to salvage my 30 gallons of gas? Nylon stocking? I never had a good reason to get married but now that I need a stocking ......! Thanks, guys!
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I think the horse suggestion is the best! I tried calling the man who owned the Pierce for 12 years before I got it but he won't be home until this evening. Looking at the notes I took before I bought the car he had the tank removed and boiled out but never mentioned a sealer. I'll ask him what he did. Oxygenated gas was used in N.Y. briefly about 5 or more years ago but was withdrawn because of numerous complaints and I'm not aware that they've gone back to it. A Pierce friend of mine said the slop was probably sucked into the sending unit. Another friend feels the slop was pulled into the carbs but ech carb has a fuel filter before it so I'm hoping not. What do you think about that, HHoward? I also looked in Hemmings and found a company called Gas Tank Renu with 3 locations and one happens to be 20 miles from here in Buffalo so I may go that route. I don't know anything about the company. Has anyone used them before? Thanks for the quick responses. I'm leaving now to see if I can get the tank out and look for that horse!
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I'm in BIG trouble. For those who have been helping me with advice on my '36 Pierce V12 - I opened up the drain plug to let out all 30 gallons of gas I put in in the fall along with Sta-bil fuel stabilizer so that I could work on the electric fuel pump when, along with the gas, a syrup-like goo was oozing out with it! I'm guessing the tank had a coating on it that the stabilizer disolved. NOW I know what's wrong with the pump!! Sure wish that filter was in line BEFORE the pump (Howard). The Pierce Arrow 100 year meet is here in less than 3 weeks and I really need some suggestions here. I'll be spending my Sunday getting the tank out. Thanks.
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Thanks for the interesting web site, Hal. I've never found anyone who can answer the water based paint question so I'm not too surprised. It was worth a shot.
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Thanks for some good suggestions regarding temp reading devices. I'll cantact the local Snap On distributor to see what they have or suggest. Hey Howard - I turned the ignition key after 8 months of inactivity over the winter and not so much as a tick from the electric fuel pump - AND - the fuel filter is in line AFTER the pump before the carb. Will check the ground tomorrow but methinks she's a goner. Danka, driving dudes!
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Yikes! I looked at my post and saw that I got 10 more replies and was so excited until I saw only the first two had anything to do with the actual post. Oh well, the first two were good so I can't complain. As long as problems are resolved (mine or someone else's) I'm a happy man. Thanks once again.
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I'm not an expert on early 20's cars but have a few 30's vintage vehicles. 10 weeks isn't that long for an engine to seize. Was it outside or subjected to a very wet environment? A couple of healthy squirts of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder certainly wouldn't hurt anything and it's the best thing I know to free an engine if the pistons are stuck in their bores. Let it sit and soak for a few days before hand cranking the engine. Make sure the plugs are out to make it a little easier on your arm. You don't want to force it. Patience is the key here.
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Thanks Howard and Dave. I'd be surprised if it was the timing chain with only 29,700 miles on it but I'll keep that in mind. The car has been sitting for 8 months so when I get over there on Tuesday (it's stored 20 miles from my house) I'll turn on the ignition and listen for the ticking. If, after that length of time sitting, it isn't ticking I'll know what it is. My guess is that you're right, Howard. Either the pump quit or it's plugged with crapola from the gas tank. I'll also check for a sticking float. I recently read a segment in Old Cars Weekly that suggested hard re-starting could be valves. At least I have several options now. The Pierce Arrow 100 year celebration is only 1 month and 20 miles away! Gotta get the old boy running. Thanks for the great suggestions, gents. Now if I could just get a couple of resonses to my water based paint post ......
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Thanks very much for the suggestions, Bux. Here are some answers to your questions. I spoke to the gentleman who owned the car for 12 years before I did. He had the starter rebuilt as well as the generator. I changed the oil when I got it about 100 miles ago and used a 10W - 40 detergent. The car has 29,700 original miles and always ran on non-detergent which is a whole debate in itself (see the forum). I did check oil level and it was fine and looked clean. The oil filter is an original L-8. I'm looking into a spin on conversion kit. The car only stalls when I make a fast left turn. A normal speed left doesn't affect it. Thanks for your suggestions. I still need to find time to play with it. As I was putting it away last fall it stalled on the way to it's resting place. After about half an hour it re-started but stalled again after only a couple of minutes. I had it towed and tried it the next day. I didn' hear the familiar ticking of the electric fuel pump but it started right up. After a couple of minutes it stalled out again. I haven't tried it since so I also have that problem to deal with. I suspect a fuel delivery problem, a plugged line or a bad electric fuel pump. Ah, the fun of owning old cars!
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Does anyone know if water based paints are available for the hobbyist and, if so, does anyone have experience with them? I'm told they've been in use for aprroximately 10 years or so by the major auto manufacturers but have never heard of a hobby friendly source. I bought a turbine paint spraying system by Graco and have decided not to use paints containing Isocyionates due to the damage they cause to the central nervous system and have opted to look for a more lung friendly solution. I would assume water based paints are the most environmentally friendly but don't know if they're available to the hobbyist. Thanks folks.
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Hi there, Bux. This may be a dumber question but what do you mean by having "everything lubricated"? I've been finding out that a lot of Pierce Arrow V12 owners have the same problem I'm having. The V8's don't seem to have a hot starting problem. Once I figure out what's wrong I'll need to inform them of my solution. I'm currently in search of magnetic thermometers to attach to the starter and various areas of the engine to determine if and where there are any hot spots that may be impeding the hot cranking of the engine. If you know a source for these magnetic thermometers please let me know. Danka!
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For what it's worth I'm relatively new to this forum and have decided not to view this segment anymore. What I've been seeing is a Jerry Springer environment where opinions are criticized and people are insulted and degraded. I came here to participate in meaningful discussions with other hobbyists but find it depressing to read post after post of aggressive and defensive statements. No one will miss me because I've only contributed a couple of posts but please, when you decide to post that insult or chide another person for their opinion, consider the newcomers to this web site who see these kinds of non-constructive posts. I want to thank those of you who have helped me with a couple of problems I had with my vehicles and will do my best to reciprocate. I will continue to try to help people with their vehicles but will avoid this particular area of the site. Best to all.
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Whenever I take one of my pre-war classics out for a drive the most thumbs up and shouts of "NIce car!" I get are from young kids, about 8 to 12 years old. They've never seen anything like that before and are fascinated. That's the time to get 'em interested. I've taken my neighbor's kids for a ride as well as some of my friends kids and they love being in such a 'cool' car. It's a shame a lot of the pre-war classics are going overseas where people there seem to appreciate them more than we do here. I'm always sad to see so many overseas tags on cars that have sold at Hershey each year. There will always be people interested in old cars but the decades of interest will shift over time and each generation will see a diminished interest in the earlier models. The excess of cars that will accumulate over time will most likely be relegated to museums or continue to leave our shores.
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Thanks, Walt. I did notice a gas leak at the carb that goes away after it warms up. I'll make sure I check that out.
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Check with your local DMV. Some states have records that go back quite a few years.
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Absolutely. DO NOT buy them from Bob's automobilia. He only has the front set, not the rear, and he's very difficult to get along with. I had a very bad experience with him as have others. His sets are foreign made and the quality isn't all that good. There's a company in New Jersey called Door Sills that sells front and rear sets. I bnought them for my '32 Buyick for $225 quite a few years ago and they're gorgeous. Don and his om, Maryanne run it as a family business. They don't advertise but they have so much work from word of mouth alone that they're usually backed up for 6 to 8 months. I'll have to find their address since it's been about 8 years but when I do I'll send you the info.
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I agree that there are plenty of people that aren't always going to be interested in the things I'm interested in (old cars) and that's fine. There certainy are a lot of things in the world I'm not interested in either. Judging or criticizing people for not being interested in something you like is really not constructive. Considering the fact that more and more people don't know what a Packard or Piere Arrow is I'm wondering what my cars will be worth in 20 years (if I iove that long). I don't buy cars as an investment and I don't sell my cars but there will come a time in my life when I will have to sell them when I'm too old to drive and, like it or not, I'll probably need some of that initial 'investment' to pay off but I often wonder what these cars will be worth in years to come as less and less younger people are interested in them. I'm talking specifically about the Classic era cars in this instance. What are some of your opinions as to the future of those cars?
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Can't afford the big open cars but would love to own a #3 or #4 condition Imperial sedan. If anyone out there knows of one for sale please give me a holler. Danka!
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Send e some pics at my web address and I'll see if I can help you. Chacheska@webtv.net.
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O.K., here's more info on the difference between '28and '29. In 1929 a ignition keyhole replaced the old switch type, bowl headlights were used for the first time and a new silver and black finished instrument panel was introduced. That, along with the wheelbase differences, should tell you which year you have. I'll get back to you on the engine.
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The easiest way to tell whether it's a '28 or '29 is to measure the wheelbase. '28 business coupes had 109" w.b and '29's had 113". As far as the engine, I'll have to do a little reserch and get back to you on that. I was always told the head on a 'Red Head' engine was painted red. Likewise for the Silver Dome. Never having a Chrysler I can't verify that but that's what I was told when I was looking to buy a '29 roadster a few years ago.
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Thanks for that tip, Alan. I've used carb cleaner on my 70's vehicles for that very purpose but somehow never applied that logic to any of my old iron. Sometimes you just need a little reminder to use the things you know. Thanks for the reminder!<P>Karl
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Thanks or the great suggestions. I didn't know there was a profile to fill out. I'll look into that. I'm in western N.Y., a great place to be this year as the Pierce Arrow 100 year anniversary is only 20 miles away in Buffalo in July as well as the Buick nationals. The Packard nationals will be in Canandaigua. The '36 Pierce gas tank is full, the cable connections are clean, the starter was rebuilt by the former owner as was the generator, the cable is (I believe) 0 gauge, I don't know if the starter is too hot and I don't know about the carb being sealed against the manifold but will try those suggestions. I got the car with 29,700 original miles on it last fall and put it away for the winter and haven't got it out yet this year to work on it but will soon. It was also suggested that the timing may be off since it runs at 185º when warm. I also read that hard re-starting when hot could be valves. Thanks very much for the tips and come on up for the 100 year Pierce celebration. There will only be one of those in our lifetime!
Gas tank liner MELT DOWN!!
in Technical
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Update. The former owner had Bill Hirch's gas tank sealer put in the tank after it was boiled out. It was the white sealer that's supposed to be alcohol proof. The gas I bought has Ethanol in it. Hirsch says MEK (Methyl Ehtyl Ketone) will disolve it but I spent 2 hours on the phone and no one knows what it is much less sells it. It's also a carcinigen and no one wants to play with it or dispose of it as it's an environmental hazard. A local radiator shop said they'd clean it out but they want to re-seal it with a red rubber-like substance that they claim will resist alcohols. I don't want another liner but they claim that once the metal is etched another liner is a must or rust will form. Don't know if that's true or if they're trying to sell their product. Need more info but don't have much time.