ARUCKEY
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Posts posted by ARUCKEY
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Thanks for input. I will check out these web sites. The only "ouch" is the 1.9 exchange rate with England.
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Thanks for info, I will check some industrial catalogs for new belting material.
Al Ruckey
Detroit
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Looking for material source to fabricate my own fabric disks for 1926 Nash.
Vehicle did not use univeral joints. Had info that Packard club may have reproduced them for club purchase.
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Need alcohol resistant gasket for my 1956 Nash V-8 carter fuel pump. Also need replacement glass or metal fuel bowl. Or, correct material to make my own gasket.
Must have picked up a bad batch of fuel. after sitting all winter, pump leaks like a sive!
Barncrasher
Detroit
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Thanks for reply. This is a solid rubber mound and when it goes bad it ground out metal to metal. This is an internal front timing case vibration.
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Need help finding a good chat room to help find vibration in Saturn 4 cyl engine.
I realize this is not an Antique car, but the members within this site are the best to ask were to find such a site. This past winter I found www.hvacmechanic.com which was an excellent site to fix my furnace problem. So somewhere out there in internet land is a "good" site with an excellent technican that has my answer. 1996 Saturn has 70,000 miles. Twice in it's life the top engine mount failed and when replaced solved the vibration problem. this new mount did not.
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THANK YOU GENTLMAN VERY MUCH FOR YOUR COMMENTS ON TRICKLE CHARGERS. NOW I HAVE ALL THE INFORMATION I NEED. ACTUALLY, I WENT TO BATTERY TENDER WEB SITE AND MAIL ORDERED ONE "TENDER" . I NEED ONE ADDITIONAL SO I THINK I WILL TRY THE MECHANICAL TIMER FOR THE SHORTEST CYCLE I CAN SET. FROM OTHER WEB SITE INFORMATION I FOUND, I FIND THAT I MUST FIRST FULLY CHARGE THE BATTERY WITH A REGULAR CHARGER AND THEN ADD THE TRICKLE. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME I HAVE USED THE SITE AND THIS IS OVERWELMING ! MAKES ME FEEL GOOD ABOUT SENDING IN MY DUES.
I HOPE TO SEE THE NEW MUSEUM IN HERSHEY THAT I HELPED PAY FOR !
RESPECTFULLY, AL RUCKEY DETROIT
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I would like to purchase a couple of automatic shut off trickle chargers to keep my 12 volt batteries alive over the Winter. Any suggestion on mfg. and suppliers. Second, anyone who has had experience using them. There are some Solar trickle chargers that will keep a battery up once it has a charge. However, Michigan is absent of Sun in the winter.
Saw one on E-Bay, but looks like an overseas "special". My experience with that stuff is that it is junk ! -
FIRST,I THINK THE RAILROAD WORKER ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRACKS SAVED YOUR SONS LIFE. OBVIOUSLY THERE WAS NEGLIGENCE ON THE R.R. PART. I WOULD START WITH A PERSONAL LETTER TO THE RAILROAD AND CC YOUR ATTORNEY. ASK FOR MONEY TO REPAIR. CONTACT THE PUBLIC SERVICE COMMISSION IN YOUR STATE AND FIND OUT THE NAME OF THE R.R. INSURANCE COMPANY. OFTEN THE RESPONSE IS SLOW WITH COMPANIES THIS LARGE. SO, START WITH A SMALL CLAIMS ACTION IN YOUR LOCAL COURT, THIS WILL GET THERE ATTENTION VERY QUICKLY.
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A couple of things to consider. fully warmed up three things come to mind.
1. The heat warms up the carb bowl and vapors begin to flow out of the fuel supply bowl, up the bowl vent and into the intake manifold. this causes excessive richness and exhibits itself in a rough idle. Test this theory, point a large fan directed at the carb for several minutes. this should cool the bowl and reduce the vapor and smooth the idle. A second method is to just remove the air cleaner when idling, this will displace the vapor and not it allow to go into the intake. A third method is to fashion a wire basket around the carb and pack it with ice to cool the carb. If none of this works, move onto step 2.
2. You mentioned the heat riser valve. In the summer it should be wide open. If not, the excessive heat will once again, heat the carb bowl and cook the fuel, like a perculator ! The other item is the heat can expand the intake manifold if it is bolted to the engine. This can create a lean condition in one or more of the cylinders because of an air leak. the fan trick can help determine if this will help.
3.If heat is the problem, a six volt electric fan certainly would help because it provide max air flow under hood at idle. the mechanical fan does not !
4.If the fuel level in the bowl is too high, the main fuel nozzle will perculate fuel on an intermittent basis and casuse a rough idle.
Thats my two cents worth.
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I want to up date rear axle shaft bearings to modern timken or equivalent.
Nash was a non-SAE standard and no longer available. When i machine the housing
for the new bearings, how much press-fit (interference fit ) do i allow.
1 or 2 thousands or more ?
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I AM LOOKING FOR LIGHT AND IGNITION CHROME LEVERS USED ON 20'S ERA CARS. MINE IS A 1926 NASH TOURING CAR. WHILE IN HERSHEY LAST YEAR I RECEIVED A LEAD ON AN OUTFIR CALLED "BOB'S<BR>BUICKS" THAT SELLS LEVERS AND OR REBUILDING KITS. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.<P>AL RUCKEY-DETROIT<BR>ARUCKEY@YAHOO.COM
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TRYING TO LOCATE MAIN ALUMINUM CASTING FOR 1952-1954 NASH-HEALEY TRAILING LINK FRONT SUSPENSION. ANY LEADS APPRECIATED. MAY HAVE ALSO BEEN USED ON OTHER CHASSIS CREATED BY DON HEALEY OF AUSTIN-HEALEY FAME.
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HELLO<BR>THIS WILL BE YOUR SECOND BEST XMAS GIFT. I AM A MEMBER OF THE NASH CAR CLUB AND RECOMMEND YOU GO TO OUR WEB SITE AT <A HREF="http://WWW.NASHCARCLUB.ORG." TARGET=_blank>WWW.NASHCARCLUB.ORG.</A> THIS WILL LEAD YOU TO ALL THE INFORMATION YOU WILL REQUIRE. PARTS ARE NOT AS EASY, BUT POSSIBLE THRU OUR ON LINE ADS. <P>RESPECTFULLY'<BR>AL RUCKEY-MICHIGAN
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INFORMATION NEEDED. THE FRIEND I AM GOING TO HERSHEY WITH THIS YEAR HAS DEVELOPED A MEDICAL PROBLEM IN THAT HE WILL NEED THE USE OF A GOLF CART. NEED INFORMATION AS TO WHERE TO FIND ONE AND HOW TO RESERVE IT WED. THROUGH SAT.(10-14 ). ARE THERE CARTS AVAILABLE AT THE MEET ?<P>THANKING IN ADVANCE
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HELLO<BR>I HAVE A DAMAGED RADIATOR/HOOD ORNAMENT FROM THE ERA YOU ARE LOOKING FOR. I COULD PERHAPS TAKE DIGITAL PHOTO AND ATTACH IT TO AN E-MAIL.<P>CONTACT ME : ARUCKEY@YAHOO.COM
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WHAT STATE AND CITY ARE THE VEHICLES LOCATED IN ? SOMEONE CAN COME AND TAKE ALOOK AND PERHAPS DESCRIBE THEM. ALSO TAKE SOME PHOTO'S
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TO: DAVE MOON<BR>THOUGHT I WOULD THROW IN MY 2 CENTS SINCE I HAVE SOME EXPERIENCE IN THIS AREA. IS OF ALL WHEN THE CAR WAS NEW IT RAN OK ! THIS MUST BE REMEMBERED WHEN ONE THINKS OF MAKING NON PRODUCTION MODIFICATIONS. THESE TEND TO CREATE NEW PROBLEMS. THIS NO DOUBT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN THE OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE IS ABOVE 80 F. HOW MANY MILES ON THE CAR? <BR>MY FIRST SUGGESTION IS TO OBTAIN AN OFFICAL BUICK SHOP MANUAL OR BORROW ONE FOR YOUR YEAR. THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE "CORRECT " FUEL PRESSURE WHICH IS CRITICAL ! SECOND, THE MANUAL USUALLY HAS PHOTO'S OF WHAT THE CARB, GASKETS,AND FUEL LINES LOOKED LIKE WHEN NEW.<BR>ALSO, IF THE MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP HAS WHAT RICHARD MAUNNEY CORRECTLY POINTED OUT AS A SIGNIFICANT HELP IN REDUCING FUEL LINE PRESSURE AT SHUT OFF. IT MAY HAVE AN APPROX. 1/8 INCH DIA. LINE THAT BYPASS'S FUEL BACK TO THE FUEL TANK. WITH A MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP THE CHECK VALVE WITHIN THE PUMP TRAPS FUEL BETWEEN THE PUMP AND THE CARB. NEEDLE AND SEAT. DURING SHUT OFF THE HEAT CAUSES THE FUEL TO EXPAND , INCREASE IN PRESSURE AND FORCE THE NEEDLE OFF IT'S SEAT. IF WOULD SUGGEST THAT THE BOWL IS NOT "BOILING DRY". THE FUEL COMING OUT OF THE CARB. IS SIMPLY WHAT IS BEING DISPLACED OUT OF THE LINE BETWEEN THE MECH PUMP AND THE CARB. <P>MY NEXT SUGESTION IS TO OBTAIN A PRECISION FUEL GAGE IN THE RANGE OF ZERO TO 10 OR 15 PSI. DO NOT USE A ZERO TO 40 OR 50 PSI, THE INCREMENTS WILL NOT BE SMALL ENOUGH TO READ THE PRESSURE YOU WANT TO MEASURE. INSTALL THIS SOME WHERE IN THE LINE BETWEEN THE MECH. PUMP AND THE CARB. MAKE SURE THE I.D. OF THE FITTINGS DO NOT RESTRICT THE FUEL FLOW. I AM GOING TO GUESS THE CORRECT FACTOR FUEL PRESSURE IS FROM 4.5 TO 5.25 PSI.<P>I ASSUME YOU BY-PASSED THE MECHANICAL PUMP WHEN YOU INSTALLED THE ELECTRIC PUMP. BILL P. WAS CORRECTED WHEN HE INDICATED THAT THE ELECTRIC PUMP DOES NOT TRAP THE FUEL IN THE LINE, IT LETS IT RELEIVE ITSELF BACK INTO THE FUEL TANK. HENCE, NO TRAPPED FUEL TO EXPAND ! TRYING TO ADJUST THE FUEL MIXTURE WITH THE IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS WILL ONLY LEAN IT OUT FROM IDLE TO ABOUT 15 MPH. AFTER THAT THE MAIN RODS AND JETS TAKE OVER. IF YOU USE AN INCORRECT MECH FUEL PUMP (TOO HIGH PRESSURE) OR AN ELECTRIC THE RESULT WILL BE A RICHER THAN NORMAL AIR/FUEL MIXTURE. IT WILL CHANGE WITH AS LITTLE AS A 1/4 PSI INCREASE. WITH YOU ELECTIC PUMP RUNNING AT 7 PSI THE RESULT WOULD BE A RICHER IDLE AND EVERYWHERE ELSE. THIS IS BECAUSE THE OPERATING FUEL LEVEL IN THE BOWL IS RAISED BECAUSE OF THE PRESSURE INCREASE. IF YOU KEEP THE ELECTRIC, YOU WILL HAVE TO GET AN ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR AND USING A PRECISION FUEL PRESSURE GAGE YOU CAN ADJUST IT TO GET THE CORRECT FACTORY PRESSURE. <P>MY EXPERINCE WITH REBUILT CARBS IS THAT THEY GROUP THEM TOGETHER AND OFTEN "ONE SIZE FITS ALL" AND YOU END UP WITH A LESS THAN SATISFACTORY CHOICE. IT WOULD BE BEST TO REBUILD THE ORIGINAL. OR IF YOU HAVE THE ORIGINAL, INSTALL THE ORIGINAL JETS AND RODS IN THE EXISTING CARB. BE SURE TO SET THE FLOAT LEVEL TO EXACTLY FACTORY SPEC'S.<BR>THE PLUG FOULING IS NOT ELECTRICAL, IT IS EXCESSIVE FUEL. <P>IF YOU HAVE A HOT AIR CHOKE (VS ELECTRIC) YOU ALSO HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT AFTER THE ENGINE WARMS UP (5 MILES OF NORMAL DRIVINGS)<BR>THAT THE CHOKE BLADE COMES TO FULL WIDE OPEN<BR>POSITION. IF IT DOES NOT, THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE EXCESSIVE RICHNESS. ONCE AGAIN, MAKE SURE THE CHOKE IS TO FACTORY SPECS.<P>I DON'T BELIEVE ADDITIONAL INSULATORS WILL HELP. THE UNDERHOOD IS LIKE AN OVEN WHEN IT GETS HOT. DO YOU THINK YOUR THANKSGIVING TURKEY WOULD BE COOLER IF YOU PUT INSULATORS UNDER THE ROASTING PAN ?<P>THE THERMAC ON THE AIR CLEANER IS CRITICAL. IT IS ONLY SUPPOSE TO SUPPLY HOT AIR FROM THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD. IT THEN SHOULD SWITCH AND THAT GET THE NORMAL AIR FROM THE FRONT OF THE INLET AIR SNORKLE. SOME TIME AN EXTRA COLD AIR DUCT EXTENDS OUT THROUGH THE GRILLE. THIS MIGHT BE A GOOD IDEA TOO ADD THIS. THIS WILL TEND TO KEEP THE CARBURETOR COOLER. <P>FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME DIRECT VIA E-MAIL AT<BR>ARUCKEY@YAHOO.COM WITH ANY ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS.
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HELL0<BR>WHAT CONDITION IS THE VEHICLE IN ? IS IT RUNABLE? IS IT ORIGINAL OR AN OLDER RESTORATION?<BR>ARUCKEY@YAHOO.COM
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WANTED-1926 NASH PARTS CAR AND / OR PARTS.<BR>AL RUCKEY<BR>248-674-4597<BR>E-MAIL: ARUCKEY@YAHOO.COM<BR>PONTIAC, MICHIGAN
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I WOULD LIKE TO PURCHASE A PHOTO OF A '52 BUICK CONV. AS A RETIREMENT GIFT FOR A FRIEND. ANY IDEAS AS TO WERE I CAN LOCATE ONE?<P>ARUCKEY@YAHOO.COM
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IF THIS TUBE IS RUBBER OR NOT VERY STIFF THERE IS A POSSIBILITY THE DURING ACCELERATION THE DEPRESSION (VACUUM) PRODUCED<BR>CAN COLLAPSE. TRY INSTALLING A SPRING LARGE ENOUGH IN DIAMETER TO FIT TIGHTLY INSIDE THE FLEX TUBE. TRY TO MAKE IT GO THE FULL LENGTH OF THE FLEX TUBE. GIVE IT A TRY YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOOSE. <P>SECOND, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A NEW AIR CLEANER FILTER AND IT IS NOT PLUGGED WITH DIRT.<P>WHAT IS THE OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE WHEN YOU HAVE THE PROBLEM ?
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I WOULD SUGGEST YOU PURCHASE AN ORIGINAL MFG'S SHOP MANUAL. FOLLOW THE FAULT TREE TO DIAGNOSIS THE PROBLEM. THIS TAKES THE GUESS WORK OUT OF SOLVING THE PROBLEM. IS BACKFIRE AT THE AIR CLEANER OR THE EXHAUST SYSTEM (TAIL PIPE) ?
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PERHAPS SOME DID NOT READ THE ORIGINAL MESSAGE. A CHEVY COMES WITH A CHEVY ENGINE. THE GENTLEMAN SAID HE HAD A GMC ENGINE (ONLY AVAILABLE IN A TRUCK ) THIS WAS A POPULAR CONVERSION WHEN PEOPLE HAD TO "BUILD" THERE PERFORMANCE CARS. THAT WAS THE REFERENCE TO BEING BUILT IN MASS. YOU DIDN'T BUY HOT RODS IN THE EARLY DAYS, YOU BUILT THEM !!<P>AMR DETROIT
Fabric Disk Universal Joint
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks for information. I get the magazine so I'll look tonight.
Al Ruckey