ARUCKEY
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Posts posted by ARUCKEY
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Just wanted you Buick folks to know I put one lot of 30 plus Buick hood emblems on E-bay. Would be good for a NOS dealer to purchase. Cleaning out because we are moving to a Condo! E-bay 191963359875
Thanks
Al
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Hello
Have a buyer for an engine I have. He asked me if I knew of a shipper in the Detroit area. I have never done this so I don't know of any. However I will start an internet search. If anyone has used a Detroit area shipper please send me the information.
Thanks
Al Ruckey
Waterford, Michigan
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I am in the process of rebuilding the vacuum tank on my 1929 Nash. Realized I used the incorrect gasket and sealer on the first attempt to rebuild. I use non-hardening sealer and it sucked into the unit. not good). I first gasket I used reacted with the fuel, became soft and bits were pulled into the unit. ( 2nd
not good ) So, back to square one! Can someone suggest proper gasket material. Cork, rubber, synthetic ? And is a sealer required. Dykes manual does not talk about gaskets.
I looked at previous posts about the discussion on the extra fitting opening (vacuum). did not see an answer but I'm thinking it is for vacuum wipers. My unit has a built in vacuum leak approx. 1/16 inch in diameter.
Al
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Hello Fantastic result of hard work. One suggestion, if you are going to be in the great race you might want to consider adding a tailpipe. I had a side exhaust on my Nash-Healey and on trip it just got to loud to talk and understand directions.
Al Ruckey
Detoit
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Hello I purchased one for my 1952 Nash-Healey . Works just fine. Seller Bob Walker has been a member of the club for years. No one else has these.
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I was fortunate to see the start of the GR in Traverse City, Michigan this year. There was at least one Buick speedster and maybe a second. I have to go back to my photos. I have a '26 Nash that I am considering making into a Speedster. My biggest problem was trying to determine is what shape to make the rear half of the car. I really don't care to have the fuel tank sitting on top right behind the driver as seen in lots of Speedsters. After seeing your sketches I think I would like to create some type of smooth body rear half. I have always liked the "hooded" effect just behind the driver and passengers head. Do you have more recent photos of the work in progress? Where in Upstate N.Y. do you live?
Al Ruckey GM Retired Engineer (fuel systems)
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This is going to be an excellent car. I really like the area behind each seat. This design is like some of the early coach built cars of the '20s and '30s. Are plans to be in the 2014 Great Race?
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The letter W and the same numbers are also stamped on the aluminum case that covers the cams. I will try and post a photo of the engine
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I have a late 50's or early 60's Jaguar six engine and trans. Has 3 1/2 Litre cast on the block.
Engine and clyinder head number is W8146-8S Can someone help I.D. the year and application of this engine.
Thanks
Al Ruckey
Detroit
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I have a 1929 Nash touring with a 5.23 axle ratio. Engine speed gets to red line at 45 mph. Would like to travel at highway speeds (55-60)Would like to add standalone overdrive in center of vehicle. This would require 2 open drive shafts . One at each end of overdrive. An article I read sometime n the past talked about a Volvo overdrive unit being used for that purpose.
Can anyone enlighten me on the subject.
Thanks
al ruckey
michigan
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Hello
Looking for 1926 Nash Advanced six water pump impeller and/or complete water pump. Many pumps are found with impeller blades broken off. Need good impeller.
Thanks
Al Ruckey
Detroit ( aruckey@yahoo.com )
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Hello
Looking to buy 1920's NOS or new AC Spark plugs. Appreciate any leads.
Need AC spark plugs
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Taildrager
The basic problem is the pressure of the electric fuel pump which you already know. The reason pressue is the problem is as follows. The gravity tank is about 12 inches higher that the carburetor. This give the carburetor about 1/2 psi of pressure on the needle and seat. When you apply 5-6 psi with an electric fuel pump the pressure on the needle seat over comes the float. The float leverage cannot keep the needle against the seat. This raises the fuel level in the bowl which in turn causes a too rich condition. No doubt the main feed nozzle drip fuel at idle when only the idle needle should be providing fuel. At higher engine speeds it's also too rich.
The first step is to try and find a small fuel pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressre going into the carburetor. Second, is you have to get a "good" fuel pressure gage. By that I mean not a zero to 50 psi gage. You need a zero to 5 or 10 psi max. The big gages are not accurate at low readings. Once you have a good gage you can adjust the regulator to the 1/2 or 1 psi range.
Reducing the main jet or needle seat size will probably get you in trouble at higher engine speeds. A danger of running too lean and burns valves or pistons.
Once you start making modification to the carburetor it usually results in other problems. You have to remember that the car ran well for thousands of miles when it had the correct fuel pressure. Even though it was from a gravity tank.
That's my two cents worth.
Al Detroit
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Alex
I don't own a Saxon. This is amazing, I am the "Al" who is going to meet you later this week to work with you on your Saxon. I was just doing a little background research on AACA. Did not realize you also used this Technical area.
See you later.
Al Ruckey
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Hello
Looking for range of correct or expected oil pressure for a 4 or 6 cylinder Saxon engine.
Also, could not find any Saxon forums or any Saxon club web sites.
Al
Detroit
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Gentleman
Thats for the I.D. of my hubcaps.
Merry Christmas
Al R.
Detroit
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Identification Help for Hubcap
in Ford, Edsel & Mercury - 1954 and Newer
Posted
Hello
By searching thru E-bay I found the application of these hubcaps. They are 1978-1082 Ford Granada . Thanks for looks at my question.
Al Ruckey Detroit