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Rolf

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Posts posted by Rolf

  1. Hey Z, you can put any flathead in your Z by just welding or bolting some tabs on your frame, if you use a 49 or later engine, you will have to have a mercury or truck bell housing and clutch, the ford stuff is different, had a mildly hopped up flathead in my first '41 Connie back in the '50's, it ran real nice, but looked very small under the hood, it was nosed and had a carson top, will try to post a pic of it on here, good luck

  2. Good info as always Bill, thanks very much, the trick now is to make these things nice enough to justify the investment, the hour count is already getting way up there, but I am learning a few tricks to get them better, so it is not totally wasted, onward

  3. Banging away on the hubcaps Bill was so generous in donating, not ready to display them yet, but have a few questions, on the '39's, it appears that the L and the Z are red, and the smaller letters and definition lines, and the little inside grooves on the edges are black, is this correct?? Also does anyone know if there is a repro center plate for '42's, and the script for a '47-'48, are they chrome for Lincolns and gold for Connies?? Anyway I need a repro of one of those too, and Connie Zephyr, is your sedan white in color, from Los Angeles?? Thanks a lot, Rolf

  4. OK Diz, you have piqued my interest, what foundry in Texas?? What is the rest of the story?? Here is the info that Clarence dug up, is it a scam or what?? So many things from Texas are not what they seem, except when they come from our own Ace and Phil, Rolf

    The price quoted is for a Pair, L & RH, Mfg'ed to Order, Delivery 6-12 Wks. See Web-Site www.mft-usa.com, for viewing.

    Valor D. Blazer

    Director of International Sales

    MFT-USA

    13451 Montana

    El Paso, TX 79938-9616

    USA

    Phone No. 915-921-5400

    Fax No. 915- 921-5414

    Email: info@mft-usa.com

    Web Site www.mft-usa.com

  5. Diz is absolutely right, the problem could be as simple as worn hinge pins, or as complex as what I had happen last year when I was looking at a '41 Continental coupe, the owner opened the drivers door for me to view the dash and upholstery, and lo and behold, the door literally fell off in to the dirt, the hinges had rusted totally off, needless to say, we failed to make a deal

  6. Hey Cece, thanks for the mention, actually reliability wasn't much of an issue in my experience, a tired V-12 would start and run with inordinate amounts of smoke, low oil pressure, oil leaks, and overheating, but reliably, their problem was they were a short lived engine, 30 K miles was about all that was expected of them, and they were very reliable in getting tired in about that life-span, and always expensive to rebuild, but while they were viable they were anything but a slug, and with a little carburetion and a properly synched distributor, would cream an Olds 88 in the stop light grand prix's, I know this to be true, because I did it back in the 1950's with my '40 LZ club coupe, I am wondering what our "slug" contributor with such a low regard for Ford products is doing here anyway?? There are plenty of Harvey Earl sites around, that although chrome plated from stem to stern, are not "square" or boxey, and although they have no class at all like a Mustang or a T-bird or a Lincoln Continental or Zephyr, Old Harvey did have a great looking 1940's hat, so he was not a total loser, and as I so often say, "to each his own", Peace, Rolf

  7. Hi Brian, after you define "headers", then "restore", maybe we can help you, the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds, right and left, are not too difficult to find, and will put your V-12 back to stock, after market headers are another matter altogether, as the drivers or left side exhaust pipe is difficult to route like the right or passenger side, and getting them to look the same right and left is a job for a good muffler shop, a good source for headers is "Red's Headers" in Fort Bragg California, fair prices and good workmanship, hope this addresses your needs, Rolf

  8. My experience says you are stuck, waiting will make no difference, the whole piece will have to be replated, and if it is a better job than the first one done, may not match, chroming is an art, I had some excellent work done on my '41 by a show-chromer in Mesa Arizona, very good, and very slow and expensive, Mike at Metro Plating, have his e-mail somewhere, or you can google it, good luck, Rolf

  9. Hey Kieth, to each his own, ever drive a "knee action" Chevy?? There is an experience for you, and we used to tell the Chevy 6 guys to go paint there stovebolts green, so they could hide in the grass when the Fords went by, and remember that most back issues of TWOTZ are available from the club without all the e-bay nonsense, speaking of which, the '37 coupe Cecil mentioned a while back has sold for $16,5K I heard, who won the pool Cece??

  10. Hi Jana, welcome to the wonderful world of Zephyrs, I too live in Santa Cruz California, and have a 1941 club coupe, with year of manufacture 1941 California licence plates, and an A gas ration sticker to put on the windshield, I have not seen any 1941 model Zephyrs, there is a nice '41 Continental convertible model that I have, and a larger 1939 Zephyr convertible that I also have, I believe there were some very small sedans made long ago, but they are bringing a premium now on E-bay and such, and I was told that they were not too authentic, and somewhat crude, good luck, stay in touch, Rolf

  11. Good observation Cece, I have always preferred the styling of the club coupe myself, because I believe it is more aesthetically balanced than the 3 window, with it's huge looking rear deck area, which actually uses the same decklid as the club coupe, of course this is a matter of taste, and as my Granny used to say, "to each his own, said the old lady as she kissed the cow", born in 1886, but she was a sharpy, later on, Rolf

  12. With all the interest in '37's lately Ace, I am guessing $17750, looks like a pretty nice car, and with two V-12's, a veritable winner, and how long since you have seen a NOS '37 fender, definitely a winner, and some one should grab it before it goes the "Scrape" route, and Cecil, don't know how many parts I would donate, but sure would like to sit in conversationally getting one of the 12's fired up in it, Rolf

  13. Hi again Royce, several people have had oil leak problems when their "fixes" gave their engines too much oil pressure, hard to believe with the hi miler V-12's hovering around 0-5 on the guage, but remember these engines were designed to run with 25 pounds on the prewar cars, and 40 on the postwars, so this may be a contributing factor to your problem too, usually too much is better, maybe not here, just a thought, Rolf

  14. Hi Royce, I am not going to get preachy here, but will present a few opinions about oil leaks and clutches, I have found them to be very related, a clutch disc with oil on it is a chattery slippy mess, and my experience would guess that is the chattering problem you have, any good parts house can rebuild your clutch pressure plate to original specs, the pedal pressure required can be lessened by using the top hole on the clutch throw rod. There is a lot of controversy about machining off that oil slinger and going to the rope seal, or "dog-turd" as we used to call them, it is sort of replacing one poor system with another, the consensus is that a snug engine with no end play has the best results with the slinger, the rope seals had many problems, i.e. the Y block Ford V-8's of the '50's, that they finally solved with a neoprene seal, attempts are being made, so far without success to develop one for the flathead Fords, and our V-12's. The sympthoms you describe seem to indeed indicate a poor seal on the gasket, and is a good place to start, but you sure want to correct the oil problem before putting in a new clutch disc, and that is the only cure for chatter and slipping if it is saturated with oil, a lot of factors here, hope I have shed some light on some of them, Rolf

  15. Sounds great Dave, hopefully I will have my '41 by then, and I will take you on a tour of beautiful Santa Cruz, not many Z's around here, have seen one '39 coupe with a 354 chevy engine in it, and am sure there are others, just haven't been out and about much in the 4 years my son has been building the '41, but would love to see you,let me know, Rolf

  16. Hi Dale, looked in both the Lincoln and Ford book, and cannot get a clear conclusive interchange, the Lincoln number is 350639S, and these are the ones with the stainless cap in a triangular shape, the Ford book does not show a picture, but looks to be a 11A-17758, described as a 7/16"-20 X 1 1/4". Ford made square,round and triangular shaped stainless covered bolts, Sacramento Vintage Ford sells a repro they call a "oval head" #6851 for $6 each, their toll free # is 888-327-5988, hope they work out for you, Rolf

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