stude24
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Posts posted by stude24
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I have a Dodge-Fargo Trucks Parts List from 1938 covers Dodge models MC thru MH and Fargo models FE1 thru FE6 and a Truck Shop Manual from 1937 covers series M & FE.
Covers have some soiling and tears at the binding cover, contents are good (see photo's below). Both are published by Chrysler Corporation of Canada. $50 each, send a PM if interested.
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Yikes, you're braver than me.
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The 1927 Studebaker Service Manual indicates that a "jig" be used to hold the brake lining to the brake band when installing new brake linings on externally contracting brakes, however it appears the Dykes Manual (copied above) provides an alternative method of installing the lining without the use of a jig.
In the situation above I'd question the need to replace the lining, which involves a fair amount of work to remove, disassemble and reline the parking brake. I'd suggest first trying to adjust the parking brake as outlined in the service manual. The old brake lining material may appear brittle, but it's likely an asbestos composite material which was brittle to start with. Keep in mind this is not the service brakes and would get limited use as a parking/emergency brake anyway.
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Within the transmission housing there should be a speedometer drive gear and a pinon (gear) which is driven by the drive gear. It's the end of the pinon that the speedometer cable slides into. The pinon (gear) is typically made from a fibrous material, similar to the material used for camshaft timing gears. This fiber pinion gear being softer is considered sacrificial should something freeze up in the speedometer or speedometer cable, so it's possible that whatever caused the cable to break could also have stripped the pinon gear. You should check the pinon to see if it's stripped. Also I tried to look up the pinon and speedometer cable part numbers for your car to see if it interchanged with other years or models, however I learned something new, Studebaker didn't list parts or parts numbers for anything related to the speedometer prior to 1932, indicating in the parts books prior to that time to go to the speedometer manufacturer (typically Stewart-Warner) for parts and service.
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Sorry, I couldn't find an article about replacing the brake lining specific to your car, however there were articles for a similar (but not identical) lining replacement on earlier cars. The problem is it requires a special jig to form the lining to the band and finding one of those jigs today would be difficult. Perhaps someone else could chime in as to how it should be done.
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The first attachment has the instructions which tell what the letters in the illustration are for, however I can't seem to open it. If you can't open it let me know and I can email it to you.
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Attached are the parking brake adjustment procedures from Book 2 of the Studebaker Service Manuals (with supplements).
These are pretty much the same as given above, but thought the illustration might also help.
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Studebaker around 1951/52.
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Congratulations George, what a beautiful car!
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Sorry about the reflection in the photo. The motor was not damaged and worked fine. It has been sold, but keep your eye on eBay and Model A sites as there should be more of these motors out there (they made nearly 5 million Model A's).
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I have a 1931 Model A Ford deluxe roadster that I have been working on the last couple years.
The Trico wiper motor that came with the car was incorrect for a deluxe roadster and I recently replaced it with a chrome plated motor.
The wiper motor that was removed is shown below and looks very similar to the motor in your photos above. The main difference is the length of the on/off "pull" handle, which is shorter on the motor below, however I believe these can be switched out by removing the two cover screws. The distance center to center of the mounting ears is just under 4-3/4 inches and the shaft length is 1-15/16 inches.
For future reference the wiper motor below I believe is a Trico replacement motor that could be used on the 1930/31 Model A "Standard" roadsters and phaetons (painted black versus chrome on the deluxe models).
Anyway if this is something you are interested in let me know.
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Any chance you can post a picture of the wiper motor(s) you are looking for?
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Yes, still available. Send me an email if interested: vpt683@gmail.com
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20 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:
So you bought another Ford? This is what mystifies me. Buy a car, get a lemon, buy a different make next time. Buy a Ford, get a lemon, trade it in on another Ford. I have seen this so many times and can never figure it out. Ford owners just seem to expect their cars to break down all the time. It rolls off them like duck water.
We live in a small town (actually city, but it only has 7500 people) where everybody knows everybody. My wife went to high school with the son of the local Ford dealer (the son eventually took over the dealership from his father) and also our youngest son and his youngest son were good friends growing up and still are today. They always treated us right when it came to trading cars so we bought Fords for a number of years, however that ended when we bought our first Toyota, a used 1992 Corolla with over 100,000 miles on it. The most reliable car we ever owned up to that time and we've never owned anything else since then (except for antique cars and a Volvo C70 piece of crap, but that's another story).
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Wayne,
Thank you for the explanation (and the clarification) about the vacuum line fitting. I always wondered why they would put such a restriction in the fitting. The other thing about it was that it wasn't obvious looking at it from the outside, you had to remove the vacuum line to see the restriction. I suspect there aren't many people around today who have this kind of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
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My wife's first new car was a 1979 Mercury Zephyr, 2 door sedan, 6 cylinder. A nice looking car at the time. We drove it for a couple years when it started having stalling problems. We brought it back to the dealer numerous times, but to no avail. It got so bad it would stall every time you came to a stop. We finally traded it in on a brand new 1982 Ford Escort 4 door hatchback. We later learned that the problem with the Mercury was that a plastic part used in the carburetor wasn't compatible with ethanol they started putting in gasoline after the 1979 oil embargo and it would distort and cause carburetor problems. Too bad it took them so long to figure it out. Oh ya, the Escort's timing belt broke at 72,000 miles bending three valves.
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I had a 1928 Erskine with a similar problem, there was an elbow for the fuel line (I think it was the fuel line, but may have been the vacuum line, it was 30+ years ago) on the top of the vacuum tank that had a relatively small orifice (no idea why) which was plugged with a small paint fleck. Once that was cleaned out it functioned fine, but made for a long ride home, draining gas from the gas tank to manually fill the vacuum tank every few miles.
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Atwater-Kent coil, Type N-3, 6 volts.
Good used condition. I ran a resistance test on this coil and got 1.5 ohms on the primary and 2,500 ohms on the secondary.
(Thanks to Sheldon for advice on how to bench test this coil.)
Price is $35 plus actual USPS Priority Mail shipping costs.
Email: vpt683@gmail.com
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I have a Schebler U-I (UX-17) carb posted on the "Buy/Sell" section of the Forum at this link:
Although it may not be the exact sub-model (UX-17) for the 1928 Erskine, it's pretty darn close and would likely fit and function, perhaps with some minor modifications.
These carbs are not easy to find, especially in this condition.
Carb has been sold, thank you.
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I owned a 1928 Erskine a number of years ago and as I recall from the research at that time there aren't any other Continental engines that are similar enough to substitute for the Erskine 8F and 9F engines. These engines were originally designed with the European market in mind and were small bore engines to stay within tax thresholds over there. That's not to say another engine might be made to fit, but wouldn't likely be a drop in substitute.
There is an Erskine website and if you're looking for a replacement engine you might contact some of the owners listed there. It's rather small group of Erskine enthusiasts and there are a lot of connections among them regarding spare parts and information.
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Schebler U-1, Model UX-17.
Schebler U carburetor's were used from 1927 to 1932 on several passenger car applications, such as Auburn, Chandler, Cleveland, Erskine (Studebaker), REO, Overland and others.
The exact application of this particular sub-model is unknown.
Carburetor is in good used condition.
Carb has been sold, thank you.
Contact me via email: vpt683@gmail.com for more information. Sorry will not respond by phone, too many scammers out there.
Dan
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Just learned that this carb was used from 1920 to 1922 on the Light Six and different style OS-1 was used in early 1923 before they switched to the cast iron head.
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Just learned that this carb was used from 1920 to 1922 Light Six and a different style OS-1 was used in early 1923, before they switched to the cast iron head.
reach rod end for 36 Dictator Coupe
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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In looking at the 1940 Studebaker Parts Catalog it appears your "original" spring loaded end is part number 199210 which is listed for a Model 5A (1937 Dictator), shown in the parts book as "Type G". According to the parts book these were sold as a complete unit (note the non-threaded end of the shaft). The other part shown appears to be 188061 for a Model 3A (1936 Dictator), which was a different design and is noted as "Type F" in the parts book (note threaded end), these units were of the type that could be disassembled and the various components purchased separately. Attached is a scan of the parts book page. Related to this I bought a bunch of older Studebaker parts a few years ago and it include the NOS spring loaded tie rod (or reach rod?) end shown in the photo below. It had no part number, so I'm not sure what it fits, however it looks very similar to your original end, however the shaft appears to be a little longer. If it's something you might be interested in send me a PM.