GSMAG

If you cannot remove the screw, prime it using a drill. You;'ll know if you're pumping oil by the torque and the smoke coming from the drill...

How many miles are on it? When was it last run?

Shortly after this thread was started, I began dismantling the car for repainting. I stripped to bare metal, etc. The process took a long time! Anyway, I solved the overheating problem recently. The culprit was the timing chain. It was off by a tooth. No more pinging, no more overheating at highway speeds!

How much were your springs? Just curious!

I was unaware that there was a full sized early 70's Buick wagon that was not a clamshell!! Was this a one year only car? Anyone know? BTW, that guy is nuts. $5000 fr a car with a rusty tailgate??

Only 1970 cars came in White and Yellow. Other years had different colors produced. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Some wise soul posted recently that 90% of carb problems are electrical...or words to that effect.<P>I've been struggling with a miss on #7 for some time now on my '69 Sportwagon 400. I put a chain in it because it had slipped and rebuilt the carb, but #7 continued to be a problem. It was almost a dead miss, but sometimes it would run OK. I screwed around with the idle adjust screws for a while, rested dwell, then timing. I thought I had a vac leak in the manifold. If I didn't pass emissions next month, that's what I was going to do.<P>After some thought and recalling the words of wisdom, I replaced the points, cap and rotor. What a smooth idle I have now! The hesitaion I was having off idle is gone as well. That really felt like carb, but clearly wasn't. I'm not sure what was bad because I replaced all three at the same time, but it is a lesson learned!

I remember reading in Car and Driver or Road and Track about this this topic in the 80's. I'm sure it's not urban myth, we just have to dig it out from somewhere.

Ooooo....good one Grisby! I felt that one here in AZ!

Folks, have a look at this thread I started on the Buick club BB. <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=003911" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=003911</A> <BR>I could use some help and some of you might have some good insight. Thanks!

Thnaks, Dave. I thhought it was too, but maybe I'm wrong.

btt

Folks, have a look at this thread I started on the Buick club BB.<BR> <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=003911" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=003911</A> <P>I could use some help and some of you might have some good insight. Thanks!

Most of the people in the poem are identified by first name, but some are first and last. If there are records of employment dating back that far, I'm sure most of these people could be identified. Thanks for your input, Dave. Anyone else????

Guys and Gals, I have come across a very interesting item. A woman who works with me has a blueprint tracing of a Buick Model 17 - 1911. Under the model is says "Toy Tonneau". Her grandfather worked as a draftsman for Buick in Flint. It is dated and signed by him. It is framed and in very good condition. Size is about 20" X 14". There are two other prints that her sisiter has, but they are not dated. There is also a silly poem about people in his office written on some sort of drafting "paper". It's really a cloth like material and is official Buick drafting material identified by a logo in the lower right hand corner. It reads:<P>Form # A889<BR>Buick Motor Company<BR>Flint, Michigan<P>She is thinking of donating it to a museum, but I'd really like to buy it from her. Can anyone gove me a guess on what this material might be worth? I appreciate all input. She is going to try to get me some digital pics that I may be able to post. Thanks in advance!

I do it like MrBuick714 does. It happened out of necessity and I've done it this way several times. Make sure the coil is disconnected. If you have a fast starting car, this could make some serious trouble!

I would think 400 springs will do fine. Since both are big block, there cannot be a significant difference in weight.

I've got a set of headlight bezels. Email me for details.

The sending unit is in the block above where the oil pump is. Not sure how to test, but check for a cruddy connection. It's sure to be dirty. I'm sure someones else can chime in with how to test.

Scott, welcome back! Been a while since I've seen you post. Does your PS bracket have a kind of circle or hole that looks like it's there for nothing? I can't remember if it does or not. Anyway, put a large screwdriver through that circle and use that for leverage to adjust the belt tension. If it isn't there...don't pry on the pump reservior, you may puncture it.

There is a cosmetic diffeence in that the '72 has a "Buick" emblem in it and the '71 does not. I believe the tail light lenses are different as well, the '72's are a little bigger. They both have the same mounting holes so they are interchangable.

Way to go Ira!!!! Great news. Patience and persistance paid off for you. A good lesson was learned here (especially by me!)

No, drilling won't allow you to mount the bumper cushoins. The metal is formed differently to accept them on a '72, very differnt bumper!

Paul,<P>What happned with the "whooshing" sound coming from the carb? Is it resolved? So glad you got it together. Nothing is better than seeing and feeling the results of your hard labor.

I did the same thing as 86 2dr ltd. I went to the hardware store and bought stainless bolts when I put the water pump on the last time. As far as heating goes, and you read my post above, I'm too chicken to pretend to know when alunminum will melt. For guys that have a good feel for it, great, it just isn't for me. You may cut the bolt off flush and drill and retap yourself. If you do end up breaking an easy out off in it, this will no longer be an option for you. You'll have to remove the entire cover and have it worked on. If it was me, I'd put the WP back on and see if it leaks.