Gary Frank

I am looking for a company that can refinish my 1990 Rims. When I bought the car it had one rim that had been refinished and they did a nice job, but I do not know where it was done. I would like to know if anyone has had thiers done or would recommend a company. I have the rims boxed up and ready to ship. I will check with my tire guy and mechanic. It would be nice to here from someone that has done this. I did a search but could not find what I was looking for.<P>Thank You<BR>Gary Frank

I live in Southern Md and Mickey's Garage helps me with mine and also works on a local Doctors 89, Phone 301-855-9000 tell him Gary from Calvert Controls refered you.

As for the Mice, FEED them ONE BITE they will not be a problem. I always feed my mice and have not had a problem. My 47 Ford stays in a barn and my Reatta is in a heated garage where I can tinker with it during the cold season, waiting for the first nice weather day. <P>Gary Frank

I also have a 90 Convertible and had to replace my speakers. The front door speakers should be available from GM, I replaced my 90 Riviera door speakers with GM replacements. On my Reatta I purchased them from (lower front door and rear) Crutchfield and they were Pioneer Model No. TS-A4105 @ $119.95 and TS-A1387 @ $79.95. The door tweeter speakers were okay and I did not replace them, the next time i have to remove the door panels I will replace them with GM originals. They made a great improvement, but I am looking at adding some additional full range booster in the trunk.

I belive a membership fee would work. I take pride in the meberships that I hold such as BAC, Riviera Club, NRA ect. If the fee was $ 25.00 to 35.00 per year and that amount was able to support the site I would sign up today. This site is very inportant to me and I visit it evey day, the amount of information and knowlage that is avaliable on this site (forum) can not be found anywhere eles. I have checked out of GM car sites, forums and this one is the best. Thanks for all your efforts.<P>Gary Frank

I have had simular problems with my GM cars and on two seperate vehicals the ICM (ignition control module) wich the coilpack is mounted and wired to was the problem. Look for discoloration on the epoxy surface of the ICM.<P>Good Luck

When you convers with the Dealer confirm that they installed new rubber grouments on the caliper pins, if they are worn this may case the ratteling. I also live on a gravel driveway and mine do not rattle with 67K miles. For $ 140.00 I would like a description of what services were performed, they should have performed a complete repair and service procedure.<P>Gary Frank

Yes it is quite simple, just note the wire connections. The gummy epoxy is very hard to clean up after, Gue Gone may work, I used gasoline. The NAPA unit is a little thicker and may hold up better to the high temps, time will tell. I have replaced 2 ICM's on my 90 Riv & Reatta<P>Gary Frank

I think checking the wires, coil pack and the ICM (ignition control module) is a good place to start because they are temperature sensative. I have had two defective ICM and if you remove the coil pack you can inspect the condition of the epoxy, it should be hard and even colored. If the car starts when it is warn it must be a temperature related componet. Have you check the sensors before starting the car on the on board computer.<BR>Good Luck, Let us konw how what you find the problem to be.<P>Gary Frank

Mine did the same and found it was the ICM. Remove the coil pack and inspect the condition of the ICM it should be hard epoxy and all the same color, if not it could of over heated and has me alot of trouble.<P>Good Luck<BR>Gary Frank

check post on long crank start, I posted a reply that be the answer.<BR>Gary Frank

I have a 1990 Riv and Reatta, my riv had this same problem and I spent about $ 1,000 at the dealer. They replaced the coil pack, wires, plugs,E-Prom, fule pump and some other parts, and did not correct the problem. My local mechanis and I in the passanger seat doing the onboard computure diagnostic mode check found the spark retard incorrect. He looked at the Ignition Control Module and found that it had turned the epoxy to a soft sticky gue. He replaced the ICM and it starts just like the Reatta, just a quick turn of the key and it starts. I also checked the Reatta ICM and found it to be in the same condition and I replaced it also. Remove the coil pack and take look, it should be clean hard epxoy. If not replace it, I used ones from NAPA, they were a littel thicker and may be better.<BR>If this is the problem please post the results. Good Luck<BR>Gary Frank

My 1990 Riv had the same problem, my local mechanic looked at the Dealer said that was normal and could fix it. He said (Rear Brake Pads) that there are small spring clips that are attached to the pads and he refasten them by repinging them and they are quite now. I will look at them the next time I replace the pads, have you looked at your rear pads.<P>Gary Frank

I have had two ICM (ignition control module) go bad and they cause differant problems. If you remove the coil pack and inspect the module you may find the epoxy soft and sticky. That is how I found mine and replacing them corrected various problems that the Dealer had no explaination for.<P>Good Luck and post your resolve.<BR>Gary Frank

The TCC stays in a lock mode untill motor reaches normal operating temperatures. When you let off the acc pedal the motor is in direct lock to the transaxle and when it down shifts it should be smoother. I would talk to good GM Trans repair mechanic.<P>Good Luck and post your findings.<BR>Gary Frank

The ABS function did not function and fast hard braking was effected. ABS light stayed on too long at startup and came at an idle if the brake pedal was held to the floor.<BR>REPLACED the accumulator and the the ABS function works and the ABS light goes out within 15 second after start-up. The brakes are working better than they have for a long time. Correcting small deficiencies can avoid bigger problems.<P>Thanks for your help in my past post.<P>Gary Frank

1990 Red convertible with 65k miles<BR>Question: <BR>1. How long shold it take for the pump to make the pressure switch after the car has been off for a day or so.<BR>2. When you are sitting still with motor at an idel and you press the brake pedal hard to the floor,it bottoms out and the ABS warning lith comes on and goes off.<BR>3. My brakes are not hard at all, but car stops okay. Late last night with no traffic at a speed of 70 mph I tested the braking and ABS capabilities of the car and found the following.<BR>4. Is there an easy way to check the performance of the accumulator and pump. I will check the manul and if you know of a specific page or section please inform me.<BR>A. The brake pedal went all the way to the floor, bottomed out (needed more brakeing)<BR>B.The front tires sqeeled, could not tell if the locked up.<BR>C. This was not fun but I tried it agin and had the same results. I live in the country and enjoy the back roads, (yes we have DEER)may never have to use my brakes in this manner but it seems they are losing their strenght.<BR>I have only put 6K miles on the car and have never had a brake problem excpet it seems like it takes to long for the air pump to turn out the ABS light and the pedal has never been hard.<BR>Note: my 1990 Riviera does not have the ABS option and the brakes work great, would it be possible to use this system and remove the complete ABS.

I have had 2 igniton control module go bad on both 1990 Riviera and Reatta. Both were original and they both turned the hard epoxy substance into a messy sticky repair. the unit on the Riviera cost me over a thousand in repairs before I found it, the Dealer is ashamed of themselves. I checked the one one my Reatta and was a sticky mess also but was not giving me any problems. The new ones from NAPA are thicked than the original. Is this a common failure or am I just lucky.

I just bought one 4 months ago from GM and will look up the part No, to confirm, my 90 Riv has the same switch, having two cars with the same switch seems to me the part would still available, but it is 10 years old. Should have bought two, they are not easy to replace. May consider jumping the switch out.

Radio/Cas & Cd Player<BR>United Radio, Inc. (800)448-0944, 5705 Enterprise Parkway, East Sayracuse, NY. They remanufactured both units for $ 265.00, CD Payer $ 145.00 & Radio\Cas $ 115.00, Good work and warranty<p>[This message has been edited by Gary Frank (edited 06-11-2000).]