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Anthon

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  1. WOW I just checked out that website. Lots of good info there. I have a lot to learn. I wonder if someone just has the file and I could put it on a new chip. I will contact them and see what they have to say
  2. The Blue Streak advertising readout said they reflowed the board in the ECM, but if they didn't even clean off the corrosion, I find it hard to believe.
  3. CRT says it's 2204. I can't see the letter code since I already put it back in the car. The new one would read out 1094 in the CRT. The updated one has increased fuel pump prime for easier starting, corrected clock (for lost time), and corrected MPG calculations. I'm not sure if there's anything else.
  4. Rockauto did me the favor of sending out two defective ECMs from Blue Streak. The first one made the engine surge and sputter, chimes go off for no reason, and randomly flashing SES light with no codes. The second one had a clearly corroded circuit board. I didn't even try that one. Does anyone know where to find a *new* ECM? All I see are remanufactured ones, which really don't seem much more than somebody's old ECM stuck in a new box and sold to the next unsuspecting chump. Also, I am looking for the ASSU PROM, to update to the latest version for '89. Does anyone have one for sale or know where to get one? Thanks in advance.
  5. The disadvantage to starting a new thread is that it's pretty hard to find that new thread to see what the solution ultimately was. I'm not sure what that new thread is titled. I tried searching for this title and got a dozen pages of results starting with the newest. Clicking on next page told me to "wait 5 seconds" before trying a new search 🤦🤷
  6. What kind of glue did you use, and did it hold?
  7. If your wire colors are brown/white and white/black, these come from pin J at the ICM and splice S130, respectively. The splice is behind the engine mount and compressor. The splice gets voltage from pin N at the ICM.
  8. The first thing you should do is (with engine off, ingnition on) unplug the sensor and check voltage at the connector on each of the outside pins, using the center pin as a ground. If they are both below 8V, it's an open ground circuit to the center pin. The other two wires lead to either a splice or the ignition module. If voltage is low on either of those two pins, check for an open circuit to the splice or the ignition module (or bad ignition module itself). If voltage is ok on both (8-10V), then you have to check voltage at the ECM connector and follow some other procedures to see if it's a bad ECM connector, missing magnet, bad sensor, or faulty ECM.
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