R Walling
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Posts posted by R Walling
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I have had good luck in painting steering wheels on a 55 Chrysler and a 55 Ford PU,
I have also washed older wheels with Laquerre thinner to remove sticky crud.
As far as polishing, if the wheel is hard plastic, I would first use a fine sandpaper wet, by hand, maybe,1500 then 2000 and then 3000. Final polishing with fine rubbing compound. I would a machine with light pressure and high speed but if you do not have experience with a buffer, I recommend doing it by hand.
If the wheel is hard rubber, it would probably require a different method.
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I have a 1980's Ford CLT 9000 that I used to use as my yard horse. It has been sitting for a few years and my friend said that I should sell it as they are in demand now.
I have looked for a forum that specializes in CL's but I can't find any.
Does anyone know of such a forum?
Thank you, Roger
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I have been told that a car without an engine does not need a title to be scaped.
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I am extremely happy with these lights, I had 8 two tube 8' florescent lights and I replaced them with 3 leds, much more light and easy to install.
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1 hour ago, Trulyvintage said:
That is Junkyard and possibly
a Toxic Waste Site if gas
and oil and other automotive
fluids have leached into the ground.
No problem, there is a creek nearby, just get a few gallons of Dawn detergent and give the yard a quick flush!
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I drove my 32 Ford roadster in bad weather three times.
Once I set out for a 1/2-hour drive to a car show and first encountered rain, then sleet. then hail and finally snow.
I had to stop 1/2 way to warm my hands around a cup of coffee, but I did enjoy the day.
The next time, I hit rain I had the windshield tilted on an angle and at 65mph, the rain went right over my head for about an hour. The people passing me thought I was nuts. This was ok, but... I had to stop for city traffic when entering the show.
But that was ok as the president of the show awarded me a trophy for all my trouble.
The third time was going to a funeral for a fellow car nut as requested by his brother. I entered the funeral parlor like a drowned rat but was warmly greeted by all present. Another good day
Ps, I don't have a top.
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The temp gauge/sender is a one-piece unit, and it is installed in the head.
On my 48, it was stuck and impossible to remove without twisting the capillary tube.
I had to cut mine and I installed an electric one under the dash in its place and placed black electrical tape over the original gauge so that I won't misread it.
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56 Chrysler Master cylinders are available from Andy Berbaum for about $80.
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George, Don't go by asking prices in the for-sale ads.
The above 56 that I mentioned I sold for $600 was a top of the line car with all the expensive parts.
I seen it later advertised FOR $7000! RUST FREE, SOLID CAR!
IT WAS ONLY A PARTS CAR AT BEST.
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Ford frames in that era are subject to extensive rust out.
I was given one and the entire bottom of the box frame was gone, and the front cross member had folded in with rot.
The type of rust on the tailgate (blistered) tends to be veeeeery deep.
If you are flipping it, try the local scrap yard, they are paying about $75 a ton.
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Forgive me for what I was thinking when I read A's and T's at a dance hall.
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I owned a car, that I bought new and I knew it's value.
I listed it at $600 and sold it to a dealer who listed it at $7000.
The guy that bought it sold it a month later for $3500.
I next seen it for sale for $2000.
It looked good but the frame was rotted and so was the body in all the hidden places.
I was going to restore it, but as a body man I knew it wasn't worth the money that it needed.
If you are buying, look it over very carefully and establish the costs to get it into good condition. Then decide it the final cost is what you want to pay!
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Put a large Amazon package on the front seat and park it next to your front porch!
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With all the free weekly cruise in's, it is getting harder to put on a paying car show. Every one of your attendees have several places to go for socializing and showing off their cars. Most don't even want a trophy anymore.
You might want to join your event with another show in the area, or at least at the same time so that your participants could visit there for a few hours.
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The safe way to stretch out the spring in order to install it on the hinge, is to clamp the short end of the spring in a vice and then bend the spring until one coil opens up and then place a large washer in the space.
Then bend the spring in the opposite direction and place another washer in the next coil.
Continue until the spring is long enough to place safely in the hinge.
Then when you close the hood, the washers will fall out.
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I use hardware store barbeque grill paint.
Once I even used white grille paint and it lasted 7 years on the exhaust manifolds.
On the last car, I wrapped the exhaust system with exhaust wrap and used several cans to hold the wrap tightly together, worked like a dream!
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OSHA and the unions would gringe at this factory!
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I have found that when the brake pedal goes right down to the floor, you may be able to blead the master cylinder by carefully pumping of the brake pedal with your hand. (Never Push it all the way down again with a dry cylinder)
First, fill the cylinder and leave the cap off.
Second, push the pedal down about an 1/8' and release. After a few times you may see air bubbling up. Wait for the bubbles to stop and then, continue taping the pedal lightly as more air bubbles come up. You may get a solid pedal after all the bubbles stop coming up.
It has worked for me on several cars.
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17 hours ago, Dr B said:
...My plan is to get rid of my cars (shortly?) before I leave this earth, but one never knows. If I depart this world before my cars depart my garage, my family know who these people are and can contact them. ...
I had asked a friend what he was going to do with his collection of antique dragsters after he died. He said, "someone will want them after I die". He unexpectedly passed away a few months later at a car club meeting, so I guess he was right, they will find a new home.
RIP Paul.
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Thats an old method. The modern cars have cats on them!
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It's ugly?
Don't we have any open-minded people on this site?
It is simply a new idea, something that must be personally studied with a new vision that may or may not have benefits.
Most of the comments on this post have been made by relying on other people's statements!
Think for yourselves and format your own thoughts in due time.
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As a shop owner or 54 years, I can answer your question why work on your car does not progress.
When I first went into business, I would take in jobs where the owner was in "no hurry" as long as the price was cheap and I could do the work when I had no other work.
(You can see where this is going)
Well when business got going good, I found very little "extra" time on my hands, so into the back corner it goes.
I soon learned, and I only took in work that I could do right away. Even then, some little job that would only take a few hours came in from a good customer that I couldn't refuse. (Now you really can see where this is going!)
Now that I have men working for me that I have to keep busy, I take in work and repair them in the order that they came in... (except for the little jobs that you can't refuse)
And then, there is the inevitable waiting for parts to arrive...🙄
Ps, there is never a time that there is nothing to do for a new shop owner.
There is always sweeping, , putting out the trash and going to the dump with all the old fenders.
Oh, did I forget cleaning the toilet?
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I recommend to leave the pieces on the car.
You will have a hard time selling them for penny's. If you strip the car, then you will have destroyed anyone's chance to restore it in the future.
Every car that is to be restored need at least one thing really good shape in order to kindle their sprit.
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I once had a 1923 Auto Car that was driven into the junk yard in about the early 50's.
One of the workers there fell in love with it so he hand cranked it every time he walked by it.
In the mid 70's, i fell in love with it and got it in trade for painting a C cab Mack for the owner of the yard.
I reproduced all the wood and made all new sheet metal panels, Then someone offered me 4500 when I really needed it. It ended up in California.
One of the reason's that I sold it was, upon speaking with a Auto Car owner, he told me that they were a bear to drive and he had to trailer it every where he went.
1939 Chrysler Inline-6 Stuck Valves(?)
in Technical
Posted · Edited by R Walling (see edit history)
I had the same sticking on my Stright 8. I removed the head and applied penetrating oil several times. I wire brushed the valves and the seats while the valve was open, and tapped on the center of the valve heads and continued cranking it over while spraying penetrating oil on the valve shafts.
Finally, they all freed up.