PWN
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Posts posted by PWN
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restorationstuff.com possibly. They have several kinds and thickness.
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Update...I removed the starter and opened the back end up and cleaned all the brushes, etc. They were not bad at all. I also checked the foot starter switch and one of the contacts was not a brilliant copper and kinda tarnished. I bet it had not been taken apart and cleaned in 30-40 years if ever. All that with a charged battery, took two days at 2 amps, so it was weak to say the least.
I bench tested the started and it didn't work BEFORE I realized that I needed to ground it since it was off. Worked fine, nice and quiet and strong.
All is well now. Weak battery, dirty contacts are a thing.
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Thank you very much Chris and Jill. I am looking forward to the newsletter and contributing soon. I am currently gathering a bunch of photos and history of my Chandler.
Peter
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I'm bummed....I thought my grandfathers 1922 Chandler was gonna make me rich....then my 37 year old daughter mentioned that she wanted it, and my first gen dodge Cummins as a tow vehicle. Alas......
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Don't paint it red or someone on the forum will yell at you. 😊
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I bought it in 2006, newly rebuilt. It say until last year when I installed it on my 22 Chandler and it has been working fine til now. It is getting power, but make no noise. Nothing, when it stopped I heard an electrical sounding noise. No smell, nothing.
I just rebuilt my 92 Dodge cummings starter and I have worked on one for a 26 Franklin boattail, other than that I have no experience.
Is this something that I can open up and check brushes, etc.?
Does it have a solenoid? I think I answered my questions, the solenoid is at the starter button where the batter cable attaches? Would they be different for various 6V starters?
This is the mail to the Chandler club when I found the starter.
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An amazing find, a starter for my 1922 Chandler RD. Took Glen 1.5 years but he found one. 385$ rebuilt and shipped. Must weigh 30 pounds.
I would reccomend Glen for any of your starter or alternator needs.
He also came up with the following info that was crucial to find the unit.
---No, its not a Bosch America its a Gray Davis 540, which was used on Chandler 20-21. What I researched out was, Bosch bought Gray Davis in 22 then Bosch was bought out by Auto-lite in 25. When I was looking at the field case I noticed it was rounded like the Bosch units. This got me to thinking I better ck when Gray Davis went out of business? The same rounded field case was used on Auto-lite units in the mid 20's after they bought Bosch. So what they did was give it a Bosch number when they acquired Gray Davis.---
Ace Alternator and Starter Exchange
Attn: Glenn
PO Box 16085
Wichita, Ks
67216
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Ha, was talking with a buddy last night and he used vintage for 1991. Ah....no. I like the term"used".
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I say that not so much to malign used cars, all my cars are very used, but in deference to the Classic car club and what they consider a "true classic". In my minds eye I see a 1970s anything (except maybe a Citroen SM) as anything but a but Classic car. My bad.
I recommend Hemmings or Bring a Trailer.
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16 minutes ago, ericmac said:
At the end of last week I drove my 1913 Ford 530 miles in 3 days. Nope, that was not a typo. The car ran flawlessly, got about 16 MPG and only used .5 quarts of oil. Here it is pictured at the corner intersection of Michigan, Ohio and Indiana.
Best ever! Did you visit friends or family, stay in Inns or camp out?
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On 12/21/2022 at 10:41 AM, BfromNC said:
I'm wondering which site is best to sell a classic car. I'm considering selling my 73 Riviera, but not 100% positive. I'm thinking of sites like Hemmings, autotrader, classic cars online, not facebook marketplace or craigslist. I'm open to recommendations. Anyone with recent experience.
That's a used car...not a Classic car.
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10 hours ago, 29 Chandler said:
A DA sander is just the classic "dual action" sander that's been in use for decades.
Peter I think you are on the right track. Your Dispatch will look amazing in red, just has it always has. According to James Lackey's book the standard color for your car would have been twilight grey. I don't think I have every seen one that color. On the cover of the book is a 1922 Dispatch in maroon taken from an original factory brochure. the maroon was the standard color for roadsters. I expect an owner could order their car in an optional color if they wanted. I expect the red color was reserved for the fire chief cars and other special orders.
I am hoping you'll be willing to write up an article or two for our Chandler/Cleveland newsletter we plan to start send out later this fall.
Yes, most definitely Chris. I'll respond to your thread on the Chandler forum. I have many things to contribute and am excited you are continuing the news letter.
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I'm using an orbital sander with 80 grit to remove the paint. My paint guy does the sandblasting to remove all traces of rust.
He uses lower air pressure and an acute angle 45deg angle and has been doing it for years. Sandblasting creates heat but what warps metal is the peaning and stretching of the metal from the blast media. ...not heat. That is why we sand the paint off...to reduce the sandblasting pressures.
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/sandblast-warping-heat-myth.76938/
Whats Air DA?
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Ok so I'm sanding the doors. Then they will be delicately sand blasted.
It is going to be a tedious project to sand the body. Is there a chemical that may be easier
On another note, one photo shows my grandfather's log of some things he did with the Chandler.
The Chrysler Regimental Red paint he used stood out. M-S 90G? 961
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19 hours ago, Steve9 said:
Modern day timing belts will give you 100K easily.
Unless you drive a VW diesel. 60k
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https://waldronexhaust.com/product-category/mufflers/
These folks will make one using your original muffler specs. They made one from my 1922 Chandler and its worked out great.
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I have the same problem with my Chandler. Houk wheels, new Firestone tires, metal valves stems, lots of talc, liner, keep inflated. I have lost two expensive tubes to failure at the valve....and I haven't even driven the car yet!
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I picked up 40 gallons of biodiesel in my 1st Gen
92 Dodge Cummins W250 LE.
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6 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:
Could be it is not broken in yet. It may settle down once it has 1000 or 2000 miles on it.
Motors of that age were expected to burn oil, maybe as much as a quart in 200 miles. Sounds like yours is running rich. If it is,the spark plugs and exhaust will be sooty and black. If they are oily and black that is oil. Usually blue smoke is oil burning, black smoke is too much gas.
Definitely running rich. Plugs and tailpipe sooty. They are not oily.
Thank you.
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So the engine was rebuilt some years ago, polished and balanced, new rings, same old pistons, new valves, all new babbit bearings. It sat for several years and was started about 6 months ago. I dropped the pan, squirted a bunch of motor oil all up in the pistons and hand turned it over a bunch slowly to lube everything up. Also put marvel mystery oil in the spark plug holes. Dis all this before starting. Took a while to dial in. When it first started it was pretty smoky but that cleared up. After running the first few gallons through it with no smoke, I added, probably way too much marvel mystery oil to the gas (small bottle to 10 gallons) and a little extra motor oil to the motor. That is when the smoking started.
It was running rich so I am dialing it down a bit. I am running the third tank of gas with the MMO recommended mix in the gas and about 20% kerosene.
On start up there is no smoking and if I leave it at idle no smoking, only at higher speeds does it smoke.... a lot. Seems to be bluish blackish smoke. It still appears to be running rich.
One thing I have noticed is that fuel is coming out of the intake manifold and into the tube (I am using clear tubing) that connects with the vacuum tank. I first thought the vacuum was sucking gas out of the vacuum tank but have confirmed the fuel is coming from the manifold. It appears kinds red like the fuel did when I added to much MMO. Could there still be oil in the manifold? It has an updraft Stromberg OE-2 and it also leaks a little fuel after shutoff coming from the manifold.
I am on the second oil change and the oil is still clear and the level is not changing.
I guess I am concerned with the rings and hoping that the system is still kind saturated with oil.
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19 hours ago, Brass is Best said:
Today was a great day to drive a 1932 Ford Model 18 V-8 Deluxe Phaeton.
What a beautiful car! Just perfect...
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23 hours ago, DavidMc said:
Hidem binding is one of the methods commonly used to hide the nails https://www.sewture.com.au/product-page/hidem-binding-black
My 22 Chandler has something very similar. I will reinstall with stainless brads.
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1 minute ago, 61polara said:
Using a single stage urethane enamel will give you the look you want and will be long lasting as well. This has a hardener in it like is used in the clear coat to give great durability. It would be very difficult to tell this from lacquer other than the lack of cracking after several years that you will have with lacquer.
This is the plan. My painter has the ability to adjust shine as well. Maybe tone it down some.
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The color I am using is similar to the Eastern Red.
The Murphy Color Samples are representative of the most common colors used on vehicles from 1921 to 1929.
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92 Dodge Cummins W250 LE.
Another "Holy Grail" car heading to Auction, 1962 Ferrari GTO.
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by PWN (see edit history)
Being one tending towards the unorthodox, THIS is the one to have.
https://www.bonhams.com/auction/18621/lot/66/66one-off1972-ferrari-365-gtb4-daytona-shooting-brake-chassis-no-15275/
1972 Ferrari 365 GTB/4 Daytona 'Shooting Brake'
Coachwork by Panther Westwinds to a design by Luigi Chinetti, Jr.
Chassis no. 15275
Footnotes
Introduced in 1968 with production beginning in 1969, the 365 GTB/4 was Ferrari's response to an evolving market and, even more important, changing regulations in the United States, where increasingly stringent emissions standards and rigid safety-related regulations had made the previous generation of Ferraris unsaleable. The 365 GTB/4 was bigger, both in bulk and in the power to propel it, more luxuriously equipped and was wrapped in a Pininfarina-designed, Scaglietti-built body that was equally a departure from earlier Ferraris.