L.E.Butcher
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Posts posted by L.E.Butcher
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All good points, I also found , since I work by myself; I find that little tricks help to complete a job. When I replace a pan back on the engine from underneath, I make up 4 studs; can be spare pan cap screws with heads cut off or 4 short lengths of "all thread" about 1 1/2" long and same thread as the pan bolts. Hacksaw a slit on one end the width of a suitable flatblade screw driver. Now screw these in the cleaned out holes on 4 corners of the pan rails. Prep the pan/gasket as mentioned by Abelincoln , fit the pan up and screw on 4 nuts the same thread as the fabricated studs. I have used a 2x4 about a foot long wrapped with thick rags and gently "floorjacked" the pan up. After the pan is in place and settled in , install all of the bolts. Don't tighten down yet.
Remove studs from the 4 corners and replace with the 4 pan bolts. DON'T forget the special bracket ,P/N 51A-11140; that keeps the starter at 90 degrees to flywheel. Worked for me
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Dalef62,
I did the same thing for the same reason about 12 years ago on my '48LC Coupe. First , use a lift or a set of GOOD jack stands. You need the car at least 14" or more off the garage floor. I don't have a lift. I also used for reference , but really didn't need it; "Ford, Lincoln, & Mercury Service Manual, for Cars & Trucks- 1946. The one I have is a condensed (repop) 5"x8" Try to get this if you don't have it all ready. The oil float in my engine also sank and I wanted to clean out any "mud" that was in the pan before I started the engine. It had not run for over 10 years. Next you will have to remove or move aside any sheet metal splash pans. Next remove the exhaust cross over pipe, drop the drag link from the pitman arm. The next thing is remove the cap holding the front radius rod (WISH BONE) . Good time to replace the rubber ball that cushions the radius rod, this is a Mercury part. You should not have to remove the radius rod, just pry down and wedge a short length of 2"x4"so as to make clearance. Remove caps screws and drop pan down, you may have to turn engine over a little for crank shaft counter weights to clear as you maneuver pan around. In my engine, the snap in "float cage" that keeps the float from being wrapped around the crank was missing. The float will last about 20 seconds before it is scrap brass if this part is missing. You may have just a leaking float. Any questions "E" me --larry1938zephyr@gmail.com
This "post" looks neat now, look what happens when I submit?????
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Look back to Oct. 20 , I mentioned the article by Jake Fleming. He stated the main seal holders are Ford or Merc , P/N s 91A-6335 (upper ) and
P/N 91B-6336. Also will need a pair of 91A-6347 seals, sometime called ropes. It has been years since I did this to my '42 LCCont. Cab. I don't have any of those notes anymore
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Mr. ralphnor49,
I was waiting for someone else to jump on here and give their explanation, so I'll give my "2cts" worth. Since you may still have your
car up on the lift, you will have to drop the pan . Check the crank and see if there is a rough spot or a "digg" in the crank surface. Some thing shredded that seal. It also looks to be dry. These should be soaked in oil a day or 2 before installing.
Perhaps you are a member of "The Lincoln Zephyr's Owners Club", if not please join. In the club magazine, March/April '22; their is a
reprint of the article by Jake Fleming title " The HV-12 Rebuilding Bible". Part one. On page 25 , Jake mentions the modifying of the rear seal on the
HV12. This has been known for years while rebuilding the HV12. This could be of interest to you since you have gone this far. Good Luck and let us know what you find-=--- Larry
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There you go!!!----Looks Good!---- Larry
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Roy,
The part that you posted looked a little strange, so I checked my parts books and spare parts and do believe you have a 1942 Lincoln Zephyr, Continental, and Custom wheel cover medallion. The only year this was used. The medallion used on '42- '48 Lincoln family hoods looks similar, but has a 145 degree bend. All said , looks good and now may be easier to sell. Good luck-- Larry
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Thanks to every one, I'll let you know how this turns out ---- one thing in my favor , I have plenty of time!
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You may be right! The trouble is the car does run but I cannot take it on the street. I'll have to have the glass guy come out to my garage and remove it,$$$$$$$ . No one said this hobby is CHEAP! I have been fooling with LC's and Zephyrs since Dec. 1965. I guess if I wanted a cheap hobby I could collect match book covers! Thanks for your reply, I will keep working on it ,CAREFULLY!
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How do you remove rear window from a 1948 L.C. Coupe? Window is near perfect and rubber seal is good. Is it installed from inside? Interior trim ring is removed.
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This may help, If you are a member of the LINCOLN ZEPHYR OWNERS CLUB, look on pg.17 of " The Way of the Zephyr" ,VOL.55,#2. Alan Whelihan looks on as his 1942 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet is loaded on a big van to be shipped to it's new owner. I owned this car from 1965 to 1971, but never finished the restoration. PM Alan on this site and perhaps he will tell you who installed the top. Do you have the old top still on the car or enough to make a new top? On my 1938 LZ Conv. , I had the top cut from "scatch". Good luck- Larry
Fuel Pump Rod Lubrication
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
This may help, look up Vol.29 #2 March/April '96 ; Alan Whelihan wrote a good article on the fuel pump pushrod. He supplied a a new pushrod and bushing for the HV12 engines. His parts are now carried by "Eclectic Motor Company" ( see ads in recent "TWOTZ" ) Also check out Vol. #'s 55-2,55-3, and 55-4 of the "TWOTZ" . Back issues may be available ---Larry