L.E.Butcher
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Posts posted by L.E.Butcher
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I have been down this "road" several times. As per my big Lincoln parts book, they list several part #'s--- 18-11002 for the '36-'47 Zephyrs ( Ford part #) then that was replaced by PN 7RA11002 and then the latest is 5EH-11002 brought out sometime in '47 for the '47-'48 V12s. This a longer unit and the end of the "snout" , where the starter bolts to the rear of the pan has to be cut . If not ; the starter drive is exposed to the weather- rain, snow, dirt, mud etc., etc. I found this on my '48 LC Coupe V12 and my '46 Ford 59AB flat head V8.
Here is my fix---- take a used, empty , small propane bottle and clean it out!!! I removed the small air valve on the side. Filled with hot soapy water ,drained it out , really dry it good. Clean all paint, dirt , rust, grease, oil and paint from the "snout on the pan . Cut the propane bottle bottom off about 1- 1/2 or 2" The inside diameter is just a "friction fit " larger than the outside diameter of the pan snout. I did not weld , but "tinned" with solder both snout and the propane bottle , slipped it on , heated with a propane torch--done !, Clean up and paint whatever color you like. I like semi-gloss black. Don't forget when re-installing the starter , install starter support bracket--- P/N 51A 11140. Any questions "E" me at larry1938zephyr@gmail.com
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Hey "Cokekid"
I checked my Lincoln Parts books and those cotter pins you need are part # 352201-s It measures 3/64" x5/16"
try Jerry Richman in our club, Skip Haney in Fla. or check out a machine supply - Google up -fasters---Good Luck-Larry
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"Sparkydave,"
I have removed all of the wiring from my '48 LC Coupe and checked an original wiring schematic for '46-48--no flasher unit on these cars . This looks to be added. Does it have a feed wire? Trace it back to light switch or the dimmer switch. The toggle is correct and controls weather power goes to dimmer switch which controls low beams or high beams. The other choice from this switch is your fog lights only. These were amber from '46-'47 and then for '48 they were clear??? Running lights perhaps? Good luck--- Larry
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I have always used 1/4 OD steel ( STEEL ONLY, not copper) brake line. I cut the brake fittings off and save. Ream out the inside of the tubing just slightly , just to clean any "burr" from cutting. Borrow or purchase from a plumbing supply , or a "box" store tube cutting tool. Purchase new correct fittings and the Ford "beads " . At the same time , purchase a small simple tube bender, if you don't already have one. Good time to consider an in line electric fuel pump just for emergencies. Fuel pump should be bypass only. I have never used a "full time on " electric fuel pump. If your old fuel line looks to have correct bends, if not check out "The Way of The Zephyr " back issues for correct bends. Let us know how it turns out. Larry
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"Sparkydave", Just a few things about your 1st post. The car looks great! It should clean up real good. Is this an early '47 ? The wheel covers and hood ornament are '46. If no one has removed the "body tag" , it is screwed to the firewall to the left of the horn relay. I think I can make it out in your 1st. picture.This tag shows the model year and body type and also the count in total production. This is not your VIN # ,that is stamped on the front cross member, drivers side. This should match the VIN # on your title, which I hope you have. The Vin is also stamped on the frame just in front of the gas fill pipe, facing you.
I hope you have not started it yet without changing the oil and filter!!!!!. A good filter is a WIX 1006. You probably don't know what type and grade of oil was used in it. 30 wt/ detergent is a good start. If you feel like it, drop the pan( FUN JOB !) and clean out the sludge and clean the screen on oil pump pic up, this could save your engine. The pan gasket is available. Have fun and send more pics on your progress--- Larry
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Jim,
I have been holding off to see if anyone else would jump on , but I guess not. I restored a '38 LZ Conv. Coupe , owned it for about 46 years
and sold it back at the end of 2019. I did not need to replace the floors and I have gone through all of my pics and cannot find one that shows where the clutch spring (PN 86H-7523B) connects other than the small "eyelet" on the lever( PN 86H-7511) . Perhaps it was a small hole in the floor? Did you replace the floor? I would attach the spring on the lever and pull back just enough to take slack out and spot weld a small clip . No one will ever see it. If you wish contact Colin Spong, he lives on your side of the "pond". 1937lincoln@talktalk.net He will know!
Good Luck, Larry
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Well, Charlie, Anyone get in touch with you to help you with your top installation ? If you are in the "Zephyr Club" there is a directory of members.
Someone may live in driving distance of you and would allow you to take pictures of their car. I have used this method many times. "E" me some evening after 7PM. Eastern time. I live in Maryland. My "E" is larry1938Zephyr@gmail.com Perhaps I can help you somehow , Larry
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Hello Charlie, I too had a 1942 Continental Cabriolet; Vin . H131762, from 1965- 1971. Never finished it. Alan Whelihan finally ended up with
it. He may have been 4th. or 5th owner since me. He sold it about 2 or 3 years ago- BEAUTIFUL CAR! I never got to the top work , but it would be good idea to obtain from our Zephyr Club a copy of "Authenticity Manual" and the "Way of the Zephyr' Index. One of the vendors or advertisers on this club website should be able to furnish these. The big thing to remember is if you do not have a readymade kit , don't let a trim shop decide what the top should look like. This a "3 pc. top"; which means to me , center panel, 2 side panels, no tack rail above rear window and also no tack strip above header bow above windshield. Contact Richard Cole or Bob Barr for back issues of "THE WAY OF ZEPHYR" , this has been covered--Good Luck----- Larry
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Hello Materal73,
119 views and no responses ---- sad! after looking at your pics, I don't see any damaged teeth. What is wrong with it?
Perhaps a good cleaning with #1 "K" kerosene and a stiff parts cleaning brush should get it working. One of my favorite tools is a bench mounted wire wheel. Next clean with hot soapy water, let dry. Also, hang it in a plastic container filled with" Evaporust." Good stuff. Spray paint with a coat of black semigloss paint, Lube the gear wheels with a light coat of silicone grease. Let us know how it turns out a
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I checked several of my Lincoln books , and I believe the Greyhound Ornament started in 1927
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Gerry,
I have never come across this problem that you mentioned in your post , mainly becaused I hve never work on any Lincoln later than 1948; BUT it can't be that much different. It looks like you will have to remove the door panel. I guess you have tried using different types of lubricants---WD40, PB Blaster, 20WT oil , all squirted in different openings. The '42 -'48 LCs, using the SS push buttons ,all press on a flat "plate" inside the door. I'am thinking the '49 used a similar design? Good luck and let us know how it turned out . Larry
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After you get your starter back from having it repaired/ rebuilt and before reinstalling it back in the car ; clean off the area on the pan
where the starter mounts. NO paint, no rust, no grease, no dirt! Must be bright silver!. If you don't have the small "Z" clip, obtain this, called the starter support Bracket- original P/N- 91A11140B ; replaced by P/N 51A-11140. This is in the Lincoln Parts book and is available from parts vendors. It fastens by 1 of the starter bolts and 1 of the pan/rail bolts. It helps keep the starter in alignment to the flywheel when engaged. Keep us posted on how this turns out
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One thing I found out a long time ago -- 56 years playing with Flat head V8's and V12's --- just because the battery cables, starter cable; solenoid cable; look tight , take them off and REALLY clean the ends and battery posts SILVER bright !!! Check the easy stuff 1st!!!!!
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Gerry,
I have some information for you that you requested. "E" mail me at larry1938zephyr@gmail.com
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If you think your M.C. is an original casting, why not have it sleeved and rebuilt by White Post Restorations. See their ad in HMN / June '23. They have been doing these for years. I have no connection with this company.
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Charlie-- Many years ago , 1965; I also owned and started to restore a 1942 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet. It still had the vacuum widows, vac. radio ant. and the vacuum wipers. Under each front fender was a tank that was about 6" dia. by about 30" (?) in length. I heard somewhere ,each tank was about 1000 cu.in. Both check valves on the tanks were bad. Inside of each door was a oval vacuum cylinder , perhaps 5" dia . by about 10-12" in length. There were 2 controls for each window. I was told by other club members ( LZOC) that one was up and down and the other was for "quick release" . The escutcheons on the inside door panels were missing. I tested the window cylinder out side of the car with a direct vac. connection to the car engine and it worked!!!! I wrote to "Trico" and they had no longer had any any information on the system. The car did have the antenna control and the wiper control. Other members said that most '42 owners converted to elect/ hyd. , '46 -'48 LIncoln cars. The only printed info . I have is a copy of "Lincoln/ Mercury Service News", January, 1947. This shows the "vacuum Leveling tank system Installation for "47-"48 ONLY!! Send me a SSAE and I'll send you a copy. Good luck , keep us posted. L.E. Butcher 224 Cluside Dr. Taneytown MD. 21787
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I answered your other post elsewhere on this site. The car looks great!. Before removing engine and rebuilding, why not get it running! But!!!!! DO NOT ! start engine without dropping the pan to clean out the "mud" also called oil. Good time to check the oil pump and perhaps replace the oil float. I have preached this to my other club members in AACA, Early Ford V 8 and Zephyr owners club. Many years ago, I help wreak a HV12 by starting it before cleaning it out. Keep us posted
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First!!! There is no easy way to get the radiator out! In the past I have removed rads. from a '42 LC, '38 LZ and a '48LC. To give yourself some more "wrench room" remove dist/coil, fold dist.caps w conduits back on top of engine and tie with a pc. of cord--out of the way. Soak the 3 cap screws that hold the fan on the fan hub with PB- Blaster . Soak a small rag with same and soak the threads in the back. Use a 3/8 " drive and , I think; 1/2 " socket. I had purchased one just for this job, because I had to grind down the outside just a little to fit on head of the bolt. From the looks of the engine it seems to have sat a long time. Being very careful, take a propane torch( not oxy/ acetylene !) and heat the heads of the 3 bolts. Tap with a small hammer--this may help. Make sure all of the PB- blaster is wiped dry. These bolts are fine thread and look to be special. If this goes well , break loose the lower rad. bolts , but do not remove yet. I cannot see in front of the rad. but remove the flat stamped sheet metal air deflector, located between rad and hood lock down plate. You'll need this room to rock back rad to lift out. Naturally , cut away the old rad.
hoses--- they're "toast" . Have fun ! let us know how it goes--- Larry
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Vacuum on our old cars ( F,M,L ) is measured with a vacuum gauge. A good reading is around 15- 22 " on your gauge . If you purchase one, it should have instructions. Look for the vacuum port where your wiper hose is attached. On most of our Old "H' series Lincolns, the engineers designed and had installed vacuum tanks. On my '42 LC Cab . 2 tanks were installed , one under each each front fender. On my '48 LC Coupe , there is one installed under left front fender. Each tank had a 3 port vacuum.
valve . The '42 had vacuum widows, vacuum antenna, and a the wiper motor. A "plumbers nightmare" with all of the hoses--
The check valves were pot metal and mostly junk now. So add up all of your connections--- 1 under carb, 3 at vac .tank, 3 at the antenna control, 3 at your wiper conrtol! Good luck! tell us what you find
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As I posted on my July 24 post , the back up light switch on my '74 F100 looked very crude; but it did work with a little adjustment. Still might be worth a visit to your local parts yard . Good luck
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Back up light parts are available from C&G Ford Parts, Inc. 1-800-266-0470
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I once had a 1974 F100 pickup that had factory backup lights. built into the taillight unit. This truck a was a 302 V8 with 3spd column
shifter. There was a switch attached to the steering column under the hood . The clamp looked like a radiator clamp! It was activated when the driver shifted into reverse. The low and reverse shift arm pushed against the button on the switch---very simple! Check a junk yard in your area, perhaps they might have an old F100 truck or go on line and find a vendor who supplies parts for old Ford trucks
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John Mc,
I don't have a spare armature separate from a starter to compare ,but I have a complete starter from my '46 Ford. By checking the " Lincoln Chassis parts Manual" '36-'48. They show the original part # for the starter as 18- 11002-'36-'47. Big change sometime in'47. The new # was 5EH-11002 '47-'48. The older armature is # 18-11005, the new starter is 5EH-11002. That pre fix 18 is the prefix for 1932 Ford ! .I think the big change was in the starter drives -- Often called "The Bendix". All of this can be found in the parts book
pgs.- 178-181.
I'am sorry I don't have the parts I can lay out and take photos of. BUT! When I was going over my newly purchased (2010)
48 LC w/ HV12 I noticed the end of the "snout" on the pan where the starter was mounted , was cut off about 3/8" to allow the
newer drive to fit. I also noticed this on my '46 Ford the same thing was done. I repaired both with a section of a standard plain pro-
pane bottle soldered on /finished/ painted. Any more questions "E" me at larry1938zephyr@gmail.com or call me 1-410-756-5310
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I replaced both right and left rear wheel brake cylinders on my '48 LC with new DORMAN cylinders. They are different for right and left sides. The left is W4803 and the right is W4804. I just called Dorman today and they are available , but will not sell unless through a local jobber. I ordered at my local auto parts shop I deal with.
Passing of Alan Whelihan
in Lincoln & Zephyr
Posted
I met Alan many years ago at one the early "Parts Meet". He really knew his Lincoln Parts , I bought, traded a lot of parts with Alan; I even worked for him a short while in 2000 , helping him set up his warehouse in Adamstown MD. I will miss him as a good "ol car guy".
Larry Butcher #86