ReeRee

Precision Fuel pump E16035 or for Delphi use FE0112

My mistake I meant j relay from the box just behind the driver's headlights. Ran a 15amp fuse to make sure the compressor was still working correctly and check the pressures. The fifteen amp fuse hasn't popped tho and everything is working good when it is in. Got a multi meter and I intend to check all the wiring soon.

Replaced j fuse. Worked for like 2 minutes then blew again. Checked lowside pressure when on showed just a hair over 40 psi.

A/C compressor wasn't kicking on and I found fuse #18 blown. Replaced fuse and new one was immediately blown. Replaced the relay and it worked for a bit then started blowing the fuses again.Anybody had this issue before and what would be the next steps to trouble shooting the issue?

I didn't drive it after I had noticed. I added about a half qt of oil and was full before heading to work. Tried checking oil level after work before driving home and went to add and ended up having to add 4qts before it read full so I checked the leak and when I saw how fast it was leaking I got a ride and left the car where it sat

Replaced with with a wix filter PF52 equivalent seems to have remedied the issue. Fram filter gasket seems to have compressed to far and wasn't sealing. Filter was tight. Seems that the filter channel was too deep gasket looked ok once removed and inspected. Also appears the outer edge of filter was flush with adapter face as it's rubbed some of the paint off on the lip.

Didn't drive the car home after I noticed the leak. I left the car at work and am on the way to look it over this morning. I had been keeping the oil level withing the safe zone topping up the oil level before every drive never letting it get below .5 to .75qts low

I never had a low oil pressure light come on the sensor was showing roughly 40psi the whole drive except for at idle it reads below 20 psi but I've had that issue since the timing set was installed. I believe I lost most of the oil on the highway but probably leaked out about a quart onto the parking lot while I was working

I had a slight drip from the oil pan and would only lose about .25qts on the drive one but today it seems to have started running from the oil filter or the housing in a steady stream. I have a 20 mile drive from home to work and Lost about 4 to 4.5 qts of oil on the drive there. Since the motor was almost ran dry I'm wondering if the block will even be salvageable for a rebuild without extensive machine work done because I'm sure the entire rotating assembly will be shot. Also curious what the parts availability will be or if it would be better to look at swapping in and l36 and everything that would entail. Just wondering what my options are. This car is my daily so I would like to get this done as budget friendly as possible but also have a goal to supercharge it as I've seen has been done on a couple YouTube videos and in a few threads here. Any input will be much appreciated.

Will check tightness of filter. Should be good as it is a new filter. The gasket for the oil filter housing was replaced 1 week ago and the oil pressure sending unit is relatively new and was replaced shortly after id originally made this thread.

Hey it's been a while since the last update but I figured out the stalling issue. Timing chain stretch ended up being the culprit. Swapped out the timing set oil pan gasket and switched to an AC Delco cps. I now have a new issue. After highway driving the oil pressure reads very low idling and stop fluctuating on bd71 around and under 20ish sometimes dipping as low as 4. Leaking oil on the passenger subframe but haven't yet found the source. Lost about 1 qt of oil in 2 hours a few days ago

Ok I will check for that as well

Harmonic balancer does appear to have slight wobble. New oil pressure sensor is a Duralast PS227. Oil pressure readings taken thru BD71 read in the 40s yesterday at cold idle. Going to be taking the harmonic balancer back off anyways but the box it had came in was handle a bit rough and the new CPS had a small part of the molding broken off. The dust shield also was in rough condition and looks like it was melted by friction with the old harmonic balancer. Will post pics once I have them. Also noticing it's smoking a bit in the rear of the engine bay and read some posts on the EGR and cleaning it but it also has a powersteering leak so I believe it may be burning some of that off as well

I had thought ed08 was a bit odd as well the only part of the ignition system I haven't replaced is the actual plugs so I'm planning to check the condition of them. I'm also concerned about the injectors being gummed up at not atomizing the fuel correctly. Wanting to find out what is causing the rattling from the engine bay as well and I'm concerned it's possibly due to the lower oil pressure and how it might affect the bearings. Does anybody know if the 3800 are prone to valve seats going out as well because it backfires under load occasionally and it was mentioned that it may be out of time.

Bought oil pressure sensor and only reading 23 psi at idle. Still need to check sensors while stalling. Sensor readings at idle are below ED01: .42-.44 ED04: .54 ED06: 5.5-5.8 ED07: .45 ED08: 19-24 ED10: 13.6-13.8 ED11: 800 ED12: 0 ED16: 0 ED17: 273 ED18: 49-65 ED19: 128 ED20: 134 ED21: 6.4 ED22: 51 ED23: 44 ED24: 675 ED25: 17 ED26: 14.3 ED27-ED30: 0 ED31: 0110 ED98: 13 ED99: 1484

I looked at ed01 which I saw was the tps sensor reading on another post and it reads .42v at idle and 4.3 at WOT. Engine idles and runs fine while cold and will idle ok once warm for a few minutes. Was looking at a few of those going to try again latter once its cooled off. When throttle is applied rpm tend to hang around 800-900 then fall down between 600-700. Videos here:

Just cleaned maf iac and throttle body before doing fuel pressure tests.

Cleaned throttle body a reinstalled did pressure test and it showed 42 psi when key was turned on. Running at idle showing 36 psi. When keyed on then back off fuel pressure maintained at 42psi for several minutes no noticeable loss of pressure. Car idling steady while cold and then idles at operating temp for a little while. No fuel pressure drop when engine stalls.

Ok to clarify on the last 2 post I had installed a new sensor but the harmonic balancer had a bent blade so it immediately broke the new sensor. Got a second new sensor and a new harmonic balancer and the engine starts now. Idle seems the same with the MAF connected/ddisconnected. Died when giving throttle with MAF disconnected. There also seems to be a sort of rattle from the engine. This is the icm I picked up. It says it's a 20 pin but it actually has 14. Is the 5th pin from the left K redundant? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/masterpro-ignition/ignition---tune-up/ignition-module-control-unit-ignitor/9331d0e7f826/masterpro-ignition-20-terminal-ignition-control-module/opi0/27094/v/a/2652/automotive-car-1991-buick-reatta?pos=0

Replace cps and vehicle starts now. Ran ok on the way to the store but died while braking to pull in once it warmed up. Started again and dies when coming to stops and now also dies idling in park with no throttle but held rpms around 2k with some throttle. Now throws e042 and b132

Cps was broken installed new sensor. Still have no start Bent rings on harmonic balancer broken new sensor. Replacing both now

I believe I may have found my issue. I crawled under the car this morning and went to check on the connector for the cps and the sensor is loose in the bracket and is able to wiggle around. Would I be able to reposition the sensor or would it be better to replace it? Also the new icm has 14 pins but the connector only has 13. I know on the wiring diagram K has nothing on it so should the new icm still work?

Bought multimeter but it didn't work. Went ahead and replaced icm. Still no spark.

Need to get a multimeter checked the fuses in the center console thru the passenger side and they all looked good. Will update once I've ran the tests.

No I did not replace the icm because I hadn't noticed any ooze. Just ran a in-line ignition spark tester on cylinder 1 and 3 and its showing I no longer have spark. I also noticed this vacuum line is dry rotted(in picture below)