Erick R

Hi All I have a 1964 Buick Riviera I am working on the dash problems and have a few questions. 1. the AC round ball vents move freely ,I cannot find out what I need to fix in them is it a felt or plastic part that keeps the vent balls from moving freely? If so where and what part number would it be? 2. Has any one replaced the clock with a 2 1/8 tach before? 3. Has anyone replaced the dash lights with LED lights if so what blubs should I use? 4. I want to replace the console ash tray with a 4 in one 3 7/8 round gauge set has anyone done that? Thanks for any help. Erick

thanks for the help I will start probing

Hi Guys, I am replacing the dash pad any tips on how it comes out? Thanks Erick

thanks for all the help i am making progress got the springs on order. Switching the subjects , when I bought the car it had a new headliner installed but not the moldings they were missing , now I got the moldings but cannot seem to find the screw slots .... That is why I think they did not install them does anyone have a picture of the rear window before a head liner was installed? Thanks Erick

Hi Frank thanks for the picture. OK what is the part number for the adjustable valve . do you custom make the bracket? if so you you have a few dimensions you could share. Thanks. Erick

Hi All, OK I was on the Rivi org web site and read about the dual master conversion and now this post. So now I am a little more confused. Do I need a proportional valve or not?? If so what would the part number or is it the same proportional valve for a 1967 Riv with all drum brakes? I have a 1964 riv (for a few weeks now) with a 425 and air. since everything is still in the car working room is really tight. In looking at some of the disc brake conversion the proportional valve is mounted right to the master cylinder which may make things easier but I do not see any for a drum/drum setup. Could I mount the proportional valve that way for the drum/drum dual master cylinder conversion?? It is a big can of worms to open up I want the dual master for safety but I did not want to get half way in and say to myself "what did you get yourself into" The master cylinder part is easy the brake lines IF they come out of the old master cylinder and proportional valve is the hard part. Not much room to measure and work in . Just trying to get a good idea of the problems (crying sessions) I have to look forward too. If anyone who has done this conversion and has some good close up pictures of how things look, that would be a great help. Thanks again for all the support in answering my questions. Erick

ok a few more questions I am looking for springs front and rear and a front suspension rebuild kit. I can find the front springs but the back seem to not exist. The only source I found was A-1 shock absorber company the spring number is CS 5089a. It appears I have to have them made I just want to be sure it is the correct spring, 425 with air . I found springs on OPGI but the reviews for the rear springs were not good. Front seems to be a 5030. Also the air filter is different about 17 inches in dia and 3 inches tall with a large rubber lip on the top what part number should I be looking for . The one that Rock auto claimed was the right one was not. Thanks again for all the help. I applied for a membership on the rivowners .org ,how long does it take to get a reply back so I can log in. In the TECH TIP section for changing out the master cylinder what title of the tech tip should I be looking for when I can log in? Erick

great news I am fine with the drums but can I add a dual master cylinder to be safer? If so is there a special proportional valve I should use or you could suggest? or power master cylinder you could point me in the right direction? Thanks again guys for all the help. Erick

ok another question for the return throttle spring I have always seen two springs one inside the other for safety in seeing what is on my car and the pictures above is this safe?? does the carb have an internal spring return built in?? Thanks agian

what body style A,G X??? is the RIv considered? anyone have a good disc brake conversion kit source? They all ask the body style. also I removed the nuts from the door skins but the "T" bolts spin. How do you keep them from spinning I was going to epoxy them in but wanted to get advice first since I am sure someone has run into this. Thanks again for all the help. Erick

thanks forthe help finding the part numbers is the hardest part. I know what I need but do not know what to call it. I have a lot of wires that go no where , I figured two for the limit switch but others??Is a leaky rear main seal common on these? This is pushing oil out it appears to be the rear main seal. Thanks again for the replies. I am sure I will be asking a lot more questions as I get into this beast.

Hi Tom and guys, since this is not being restored to factory specs I will use an off the shelf industrial limit switch rated for IP 67 and make my own bracket. The prices on E bay were to wild for me. AutomationDirect.com Part number AEM2G45Z11-3 . I think I can make this work. it is a roller arm limit switch that is adjustable . Make a simple bracket and I should be good to go.

Thanks Tom but which bracket and switch should I be looking for i only have RivNuts picture that helps forthe bracket but not so much for the switch part number ,boot part number and roller part number. Thanks for any help

Hi Guys, ok I just bought a 1964 riv with a 425 but the kick down bracket and the switch are both missing what switch and bracket should I be looking for and where does the bracket mount ? In looking at the pictures from RivNut I cannot tell where it mounts. I see nothing on the manifold or since the bolts to hold the valve cover are on top I do not see any place to mount it. I see several brackets on E bay but which one is the right one and which switch is the right one. Thanks for any help. Oh not wanting to damage anything how does the gear shift knob come off I have to replace the carpet and want to remove the center console.