Brtele

So, I waited to start the dual master conversion until the weather was perfect driving weather - smooth move. I was going to drive the car with the old brakes Friday night, but they just didn't feel right while sitting in the driveway - 25 year old me would've "thrown the dice", 43 year old me pulled the car back into the garage and starting pulling things apart. Got the existing master cylinder off, but really having trouble with the brake line down to the distribution block. The nut at the distribution block will not break loose. I've given it some PB Blaster and using a good line-wrench along with some "how's your father" knocks, but dang this thing won't budge. Haven't given it heat yet - kept spraying PB and allowing time while working on rebuilding the front brakes and repacking the bearings. The old front brakes/assembly might have 5K miles on them - everything looks pristine. The grease still has good color but looks like it's gone through 20 years of heat/cold cycles. Somebody went through a good amount of work and then did not drive this car - too bad.

Agree, I’m not a fan of the crimp connector, but I was already a little short on wire length and didn’t want to sacrifice any additional. I sanded the terminal shiny and ensured the connections were very tight.

I knew I was gonna take some crap about "buttoned up" on the AC vent, lol. Should've said radio's all buttoned up. I need bigger screws for the AC vent - when I received the car the vent and associated screws are very loose. To be fair, I probably should never use the term buttoned up when referring to a classic car. The car will never really be buttoned up or if it is, will only anger the car Gods into creating a problem for me to button up.

Yes, common ground

Last night I was able to pull the initial timing back to 0.5-1 without vacuum. I ran the timing up with/without vacuum, but forgot to take a pic of my readings so I could post (will post later). The car didn't seem to "hate the 1 degree reduction, and most importantly - I no longer had detonation when loading up a hill from 20-40 mph. I wasn't able to get it out on the highway to see what it felt like, but am very happy I'm somewhat out of a danger-zone. The car restarted a couple of times very easily. Will be interesting to see if it still starts easily dead cold. Thanks for all the guidance.

I got everything buttoned back up and the bluetooth option now works. I did have to add a miniDC 12V DC to DC isolator to keep the noise signal quite (see below). I mounted the bluetooth "enable" button in the ashtray - not the greatest location, but didn't want to cut up anything else and figured a new ashtray could easily be purchased if originality was required.

Yep, you guys were correct. When I pulled the fuse box out of the dash, the brown wire was not as long as the remainder of the slack and it disconnected from the spade. Sanded/cleaned the connection, reconnected it and everything popped back to life. Thanks for the quick help!

I went with the Hankooks and I’ve been happy with them over the past year.

Blew a radio fuse recently, replaced the fuse and now I have no power (key on or off) to the fuses on the left side of the fuse box. I do have power to the right side fuses. Are there a “main” fuses for the different sides of the fuse box? Thanks

I ended up using 3M's Super 77 spray adhesive to glue the Clark's radio vinyl piece after cleaning all existing glue with Goop, hot water, soap and ultimately Brake Cleaner to lift any oils/etc. Prior to spraying adhesive, I laid the vinyl in the correct placement and used clips to hold the right side of the vinyl in place. I then flipped the "un-clipped" vinyl over, sprayed both sides per the directions and glued it in place. Repeat the unglued side after the previously glued side was firmly in place. Result was above fair and will look good once everything is installed in the dash and some of the excess glue is cleaned up around the edges. Thanks to everyone for the adhesive recommendations!

Maybe, but I’d love to have a spare on hand in case I hulk hand this thing into pieces - been there do that all the time. I’m thinking about just jumping all speaker cables together and losing the fader function but it just feels wrong to do that for some reason.

Thanks for the replies fellas. Let’s see what I can make look like a 6/10, lol.

On the cement would you recommend the E6000? I typically use 3M spray adhesive if I’m using a spraying, but spraying feels like overkill in this tight area.

Should’ve included that in my description- I ran some deoxit over everything and lightly sanded contact points to no avail. Did make the pot smoother, but didn’t get a solid reading. This is going to sound weird but when I push down on the pot in the area of the black wire connection, I get a reading and the reading changes dependent on downward pressure at this location. I believe the potentiometer wipers are failing somehow, but I can’t “service” the pot.

Replacing the dash vinyl pieces around the radio and wanted to get adhesive recommendations from the group. I searched but didn’t find a thread related to this question. Thanks, Brandon

VR1 or Penngrade (Brad Penn) 10w30 for me.

I’m trying to track down why my front speaker doesn’t receive a signal and believe I’ve tracked it down to the fader knob. When I put an ohm test on the fader knob black (front speaker) and green wires, I get intermittent readings and most of the time nothing. When I test the white (rear speaker) and green I get very solid readings at any fader knob position. I’m pretty sure the fader knob pot is the reason my front speaker isn’t working. Anyone have a known good fader knob I could purchase? If anyone has any other guidance, I’m open to suggestions. Thanks, Brandon

I soldered in the Drok Bluetooth module to power on when the radio powers on. It works!!!!, but I've got an electric whine when audio is playing/not playing (engine off or on). Looking into it further, I'm going to add a DC/DC isolator just before the bluetooth module. This should take care of the audible whine. Also noticed the bluetooth module will only pass through the AM signal if the module is not powered. I'm rigging up a small button that will only be functional to turn the module on/off (when the radio has power). I'll probably mount this in the ashtray or somewhere similar.

Wow, that's crazy. And I'm totally with you regarding brick-and-morter, but this little device is tough to find at your local "Radio Shack". We have a pretty cool place in Kansas City - Electronic Supply Company, but they don't have anything like this and by the time they order and mark-up, it's probably $38.33. I also jerk around with guitar amps/pedals and Mouser, StewMac, Grainger, etc, but it seems more and more that Amazon has a good selection of electronic supplies and creative solutions at a really good price point.

Thanks for the schematic - definitely helps! I looked into an option similar to what you used or even a phone "plug-in" option, but then I found this really inexpensive board that switches based on Bluetooth connection. I'm thinking and hoping this will work, but then again, I've been disappointed in the past. I'm going to temp/clip the terminations and bench test to see if it'll work. I'm also going to replace the radio light bulb with an ordered SuperbrightLED BA9s (warm white) LED bulb - based on 1 of your past threads. What was strange was my existing bulb was a TS 294. I'm not familiar with a TS 294 but hoping the LED replacement will fit right in the existing socket.

I must be passing right over it or mine is omitted. I just looked again in Accessories and Electrical. In Accessories, I can find the harness connection to the radio, but I can't find the radio's internal schematics. But after getting the lid off the radio chassis yesterday, I believe I found what I'm looking for through some trial and error (poking around). Thanks,

Thanks for sending the website. I'm using a Drok Bluetooth module that I'm going to solder into the signal run after the volume pot. If a bluetooth paired device is sending audio signal to the Drok, the onboard Drok relay will send the bluetooth audio to the radio amp. If there is no bluetooth audio being provided, the Drok relay will send the radio amp the AM Antenna audio source. Also agree on the stereo-to-mono hook-up, but believe I'm using 1K resistors. Thanks,

I’m trying to add a small Bluetooth receiver to the existing Delco radio, but having trouble finding the radio internal wiring schematic. Does anyone have the schematic handy?

Yes, a dial back gun

I recently (1 gas tank ago) ran a can of BG 44K through the system (via the fuel tank).