jiminyfixit
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Posts posted by jiminyfixit
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1 hour ago, Porsche 68 said:
Looks great nice car glad to hear it’s back on the road !
Your coupe looks extremely complete. Nice find. Does it run?
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Yesterday was the result of some hard work, the benefits of a solid 88 year old survivor, awesome resources, (AACA members) & revisiting 40+ year old memories on how to fix an old Chrysler Products cars. There were a score of reasons why this car was parked & they all reared their ugly little heads with cries for help as I went from one issue to the next. In the last 5 months, I have replaced the battery, fuel tank, fuel pump, rebuilt the carb, replaced the spark plugs & wiring, temporarily refurbished the front seat lower cushion, refurbished the brake & clutch pedal linkage, rebuilt the distributor, had the generator & stater rebuilt, replaced the bad voltage regulator, replaced the master cylinder, wheel cylinders & shoes, repaired the temp gauge, (using a working donor), replaced the radiator hoses, rebuilt the drivers door window frame, which included installing new wind wing rubber, rebuilt the tail lamp housings, connected the headlamp & horn wiring, (it was never hooked up when the side mount front fenders were replaced), replaced the particle board floor board with spruce ply, installed a new, original style rubber front floor mat, new gear shift boot, pedal pads & related items.
After the test drive, I discovered the transmission has a loud, growling low gear, (most likely the cluster, since reverse is quiet), really sloppy steering, (quite common), a louder than normal exhaust system, & really bad brakes, (need more fiddling). I still haven't made the side mount iron installations a priority as I'm still accumulating mounting hardware. (angled spacers & new nuts.
So, I still have some time before this Sunday's Father's Day car show in Yreka, which is a 50 mile round trip. I'm fortunate enough to have a next door neighbor with a 41 Ford Business coupe street rod that will be my escort. He said he will need to follow me to pick up pieces, A typical Ford owner's sense o f humor.
Attached are some new photos, (before a thorough washing).
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9 hours ago, keiser31 said:
Being an ex-brake mechanic, I would say yes.
I feel your pain Ian.
I just went through this process a week ago & had similar issues. All the wheel cylinders & master cylinder were toast. The brake shoes were unable to release & locked up a couple of the drums. One of the new wheel cylinders had a leak, along with all the banjo fittings, I.E. copper crush washers. I finally stopped the leaking with 85 Ft. Lbs. on the torque wrench. Another issue, which was due to the lack of services in my area, was drum turning. The only close-by source was an auto parts store who was skilled in disc brake turning, but not drum turning. The 2 drums I dropped off may wind up being scrap. After I found the correct puller for the rear drums, The fellow said to bring them in early on Sunday morning before it got busy. As I looked over his shoulder & saw him struggling to get the drums "centered", my machinist background "spidey sense" kicked in as I noticed he was trying to do so using the outside edges of the drum. I mentioned he might have more success if he used the inside of the drum, since that is the part the shoes use. Well, after adjusting the brakes, (we all know how fussy that is with old Mopars), I was able to get a smooth rubbing on the rear, but the front rub intermittently. I hope I don't have a bouncey brake pedal. Test drive to follow after I get the starter & generator back from an amazing source. This guy is in his 80's with his first job, at 16, learning how to rebuild, you guessed it, starters & generators & he has been doing this ever since. He has all the old style testing equipment & is very fussy. Should be picking them up today. He is also a great source for other vintage DPCD services.
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On 5/8/2022 at 10:31 AM, Steve9 said:
Hi Ian,
This support is very simple. Just holds the hood up and when done, folds down and locks into its saddle. Perfect for the non Ford group. And after many years of service replacement rubber tips are available too.
I ordered 2 of these brackets, but they are out of stock until mid summer. Bummer.
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On 4/25/2022 at 11:12 AM, 1935 Dodge DU sedan said:
I have a Question for the group, is there a difference between the front and rear drums on a 1935. I know the hubs are different, I just need to know as I am looking for a rear drum… already have the hub and wheel studs.
Thank in advanceJust curious what the answer was to your question about interchangeability of 10" drums. Thank you in advance for your reply post.
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On 5/18/2022 at 4:01 PM, knobless said:
Already tried a few lock smiths, no luck
Rats! If I find a source I'll be sure to post.
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15 hours ago, Scott Bonesteel said:
Let me know exactly what you need. I have a jar full of lock cylinders with matching keys and perhaps you can get the cylinder out of yours. I will shoot you a photo or two tonight. SMB
What I need to figure out is if the lock needs to be accessed when the cap skin is removed for restoration, or if it can be done assembled. If it needs to be disassembled, I need to coordinate with the restorer.
BTW, you wouldn't happen to have the lock, with bezel, that fits in the passenger door? It was removed years ago for some reason. If I find one, I will need to have it match Omega keys for caps, ignition & door.
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I just secured 2 locking hub caps with Omega "bent" keys for my 34 Brougham that measure 6 7/8" ID with a 8 1/2" OD. They are identical to the Knobless photos. I'm not sure if there are differences in "early or late 34" keys, which could be the differences in the other photos.
BTW, does anybody have a resource for "keying" the lock when you don't have any matching keys? I have some new, uncut, bent key blanks and I hope I can get both caps working. I have one of them at the restorer that is going to be longing for a working key.
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I think I'm able to put this query to bed. Since the seals are felt, I decided to turn the seal over & tap the metal portion with a 1/2" flat punch to force a little of the felt back into the "working" area of the seal. A pre-installation fit over the sealing surface of the drum appears to do the job.
I have accomplished a lot in efforts to preserve this grand specimen & will create a new post on projects in the next week or so.
I recently came across a fellow in Montana with an incredible collection of original 34 Dodges & Plymouths. He also has a complete Aero Brougham sedan AND a 34 Plymouth Brougham sedan. I also learned from him that the Dodge & Plymouth coupes were "chopped" at the factory, actually built that way to keep from appearing too tall, with the shorter body v. sedans. The wind wing rubber would need to be shortened 3-4 inches.
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On 7/13/2020 at 8:32 AM, 1933moparman said:
Would you happen to have both rear fender brackets for 34 Dodge sedan? Also looking for a luggage rack with brackets.
Thanks in advance for your response,
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I'm in the process of doing a full brake job on the 34 Brougham Sedan & wonder if the 33-35 Dodge light trucks have the same drums, (hence, same seals), as the cars. I need to replace the original seals. Any thoughts?
I read through the 2013 post on wheel cylinders & have been glad to find the ones on my car are original. I did many brake jobs 40 + years ago on the old Mopars cars, when I had the shop, & had the "special" shoe adjusting tool, (now over $900 on eBay). Early on, I found that the adjustment of the escentric bolts was absolutely paramount in getting good results. I'll be using the new, cheaper version & will provide feedback to the forum.
BTW, I have been very pleased with Burnbaum's products.....so far, as I was 40 years ago. The only glitch I have experienced with them so far, turned out to be a delightful discovery. I called to find out what the thread size was on the oval-head bumper bolts & was told the bolt diameter was 3/8". I ordered one & found out it was exactly like the original bolts; 7/16 X 14. I ordered 7 more. Not everybody used to be a machinist.
The Brougham "preservation" project is going better than expected with the only issue being; my neighbor has stated calling me "the dodge brothers"................I wish there WERE 2 of me.
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18 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
I've seen several references that claim the early Chrysler senders are around 120 ohms empty and 8-12 ohms full. This web page has some useful info.
EXCELLENT ARTICLE!!!! Thanks!
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Leomara,
I appreciate your speedy reply. I sanded the sender body in one spot to get to bare metal, set my multimeter to 200 on the ohms setting, moved the arm up & down & got zip. I will try the electrical cleaner & see what happens. This poor sender & the tank are in horrible condition. The amount of build-up in the tank has created a lot of sound deadening, a fully plugged pick up tube & I'm not real excited about using Muriatic acid or anything else like that, due to a lack of environmentally correct disposal options. For the price, a new tank is a better option, (ordered 2 days ago), and will eliminate the angst of having possible issues later down the road. There are many fuel sending units out there, but I want to be sure I get one that is within the working range of the fuel gauge, even with minor adjustment.
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Does anybody know what the factory ohm reading is for a 34 Dodge fuel sender? The old one is comatose. I want to make sure a replacement sender is compatible with the gauge, since there are so many choices.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
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Got the Dodge running today!!! Thanks to all you positive thinkers out there that said it would run!! Now I just have a lot of peripheral work to make it reliable, smooth & quiet.
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21 hours ago, Scott Bonesteel said:
Free wheeling control, dangerous feature as it disconnects the dynamic braking from the engine.
When I removed the floor boards I was glad to see the transmission was a standard, non-freewheeling one.
Thanks for all the input!
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4 hours ago, Scott Bonesteel said:
Measured the running boards on my 34 DRXX coupe, and they are also about 57" (56 9/16"). The hood length, measured at the belt line, is 50 1/2". The door (coupe) is 31" at the belt, although the sedan front doors I believe are going to be shorter. As to the requested pictures, see attached. First two are of the Dodge. Note that the headlight switch (lower left hand) is incorrect, it should be a rotary switch like on my 34 PE Plymouth, see attached third photo. Note that my Plymouth's dash should be painted black, not body color (on my 'to do' list...) and I have a later Mopar ignition switch. The ignition switch on the Dodge is correct for both cars, inset Yale 'bent key' switch. Hope this all helps.
Hood measurements are the same, as is the door. This makes sense due to the complex window frame mechanism. I remember the Plymouth dash & mine was identical to yours, bent key switch & all. The Dodge dash is similar to mine, except for the light switch. I was thinking the knob for that switch would be more like the other dash knobs. I have a radio head where your ash tray goes, but no radio receiver unit. BTW, what is the larger middle knob with the small button for?
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Well, I just received a response from the outfit that makes reproduction running boards. Their 34 Dodge boards are 57" down the center, mine is 60 1/2". I'm going to be taking VERY good care of these boards:)
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That makes sense. All I need to do now is find a regular sedan for someone to measure their doors. 2" per door would be somewhat unrecognizable. My doors measure, @ the belt line; front-31", rear-28 1/2". My main concern is if the running boards are longer. This could kill the possibility of getting reproduction rubber later on.
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Scott Bonesteel,
Could I trouble you to measure one of your 34 Dodge running boards, mainly length. I'm trying to find out where the 4" of extra length is in my car. Also, maybe the hood length, down the center from firewall to radiator, (bracket to bracket). AND, one last thing, if you have all the stock instrument dash knobs, I would love a photo of them all together.
Many thanks in advance!!!
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Roger,
The fuel tank is one of my other main concerns, that's why I used a small gas can to fill the carb. I won't use the fuel tank until I have made sure it is clean, along with the fuel line & short hose. Fortunately, the tank only smelled a bit lacquery, not real pungent. Thanks for the input.
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Scott Bonesteel,
I remember meeting you & commenting on your gorgeous 34 sedan while I was having lunch at McDonalds that day. I was glad to see someone actually having installed them. Good thing you bought 2 sets. Thanks for sharing the photos!!! You have a very nice collection!!!
Roger, I have read several similar posts that are very encouraging. As soon as I get the carb rebuilt, (frozen float, fuel all over the floor), I will attempt to get it started. New plugs, wires & distributor kit should do the trick AND, I should probably flush out the tank & fuel line, AND radiator.
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Thank you all for the wise suggestions on driving it first. My primary goal is "preservation" over restoration. Some things will need obvious restoration, but most can be refurbished for better function. One being, the wind wing rubber gaskets. I built the L & R 3-plate book molds to reproduce the rubber gaskets 40 years ago. Probably a pretty silly effort for a feature that was only available 1 year. It took me that long, working on the molds evenings & weekends. I felt a bit guilty back then for selling them for $70, but, guess what, they are still available, but for a whole lot more. I sold the molds to Mitchell Motor Parts when I sold my business & now AMS Obsolete is formerly Mitchell Motor Parts. The reason I pursued the mold project is because I had a very nice 34 Plymouth 2-dr sedan that I drove regularly that broke a tooth off the ring gear. I started going through my little black book of NOS Mopar sources & started buying up all the caches of parts I could get my hands on, which resulted in the beginning of the Chrysler Emporium in Portland, Ore. I wound up purchasing a 36 hump top panel that I loaded up & went to all the local area swap meets, with the "big one" being Harrah's swap meet, the year he passed away. It was announced over the intercom at the meet. Fortunately I saw his collection before new owners sold it. Oh yeah, the left rear axle broke on the way home as I reached the top of Siskiyou Pass. Had to unload the panel into the U-haul truck, hook up the dolly & tow it home.
During the course of having the business I accumulated 14 great old Mopars, all drivers too. It seemed to be a lot easier acquiring them back then than it is now, but that was when most collectors were into Fords & Chevys. That's probably why nobody wanted the old Mopar parts hiding in defunct dealerships, which made it easy to have a monopoly on the older Mopar biz.
BTW, anybody have any leads on the 8, thin trim strips that go under each louver on the hood side panels? I could probably make them out of 1/2-round stock, but originals are better.
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Finally found the right car & took delivery last week. Attached photo shows 87 year old adopting 4 year old. Tight fit, but won't stop hard work. A shout out to Jack Marontate for making it all happen & delivering the old girl, accompanied by John Keiser. A big part of the hobby is making new friends. The car is in surprisingly good condition, in spite of being ignored for many years, (before Jack owned it). Compression test showed an average of 60 lbs & oily spark plugs, so a rebuild is in order, along with brakes, fuel, etc. Solid body & fenders provide a good core for a rare model. 34 Dodge Aero Brougham sedan, of which 1397 were built on the 121" wheelbase. So, my first question to you aficionados is; if the regular wheelbase is 117", where is the extra 4" hiding?
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On the road again!
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Not only does it have the original generator & cut out, but I think I see the vacuum clutch unit that goes with the freewheeling transmission. A little Marvel Mystery Oil & a lot of patience my be able to free up that engine. Quiet a find!!! How many miles on the odometer?