jiminyfixit
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Posts posted by jiminyfixit
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On 2/25/2024 at 3:42 PM, Graham Man said:
Interesting Google search did not bring up any actual laws against "Free Wheeling" or "coasting in neutral". Many car makes from 1931 till present day still have versions of freewheeling.
Electric cars are never in gear, unless they have regenerative braking...still not in mechanical gear.
The early systems of overdrive used centrifugal force to change to overdrive, no solenoids or electronic assist.
I drive a 2018 Volt & thoroughly enjoy the regenerative feature which doesn't have a freewheeling aspect, so I would say it is always in gear, (even though it is based on electrical resistance), since there is no neutral.
I'll check into any bans on freewheeling which may have come from particular auto manufacturers, for liability reasons, rather being outlawed.
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I'm thinking that I need to find a junk OD with bad gears in the front case & hope the OD unit is OK. Any leads???
I would still like to find out how Chrysler identified this transmission & what is was intended for.
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3 hours ago, JACK M said:
If you get lucky maybe you could find the parts to make it into OD.
I thought of that, however, machining the holes in the case for the levers & shafts would require more equipment than I have. Better to find a complete OD trans that has bad gears & use the rear case & innards.
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On 2/19/2024 at 12:11 AM, Rata Road said:
I purchased a 39 Dodge last year from an old fella who owned it for 45 years. I had trouble adjusting the pedal until the old fella's mate sold me his Ammco 1750 tool. Like you say what an amazing piece of kit, I couldn't get a full pedal until the rear wheels were set up using this tool. I havent used it on the front wheels yet but lately I notice there is a screeching sound coming from the front wheels under light braking so I will need to inspect.
Please explain the arc process using sandpaper?
Here is a photo of the 100 grit stickey-back sandpaper I put inside the drums. It is used in body work on rectangular rubber blocks. Fresh paper for each drum. I adjust the brake for that drum with a little extra clearance before putting the drum on, (sandpaper clearance). Mark the shoes with chalk. Install the drum & oscillate back & forth, slightly adjusting the upper adjusters when the sandpaper quits making a sound. Pull the drum to see where the sanding has removed the chalk. Might have to adjust the lower anchor bolts to even out the sanding. I leave the lower bolts a little loose, but not tight, and adjust from the back of the backing plate. Note; on the rear wheels, turn the engine on & put it in low gear. It will take less time than the front. You may have to adjust the drum you are not sanding a little on the tight side so the drum you are working on will turn. Hope this helps.
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14 minutes ago, JACK M said:
Can't say I have ever heard of this before.
Certainly a mystery. I can hardly wait to find out what it was for.
I love a mystery!
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I reviewed all the outstanding & very informative posts on freewheeling standard & overdrive transmissions, (so I won't bore everybody with the good, bad & ugly about freewheeling). I recently acquired a perceived overdrive trans that doesn't have any OD components. What is it & why does it exist is the purpose of this post. It has all the markings indicating it is a 1936-37 Chrysler Windsor or Imperial OD. T-86 - 1P, R-6-1 Apparently it came out of a batch of 4 identical units from Pennsylvania, one of the states that outlawed freewheeling transmissions back in the day. While the early OD transmissions were not designated as freewheeling units, they did have a freewheeling component. It has no linkage to activate the OD unit, or holes in the case for same.
This trans is painted black & is NOS. Cosmoline, along with no signs of wear on any rotating component attests to it being unused. I inserted a long ice pick 3" into one of the two bracket holes in the rear case before I hit a shaft. It would have been only 1/2" if there was an OD drum inside, (I've rebuilt several old Mopar OD transmissions), so I have a good idea where everything is.
Were there enough lawsuits from Mopar owners, Studebaker, Graham, etc, to force Borg Warner to come up with an alternative to satisfy the ban, just because it has a freewheeling component? "Freewheeling" was probably the determining factor in any legal cases.
This OD appears to have standard gearing without overdrive & is the exact same length as the full OD unit. This could be a replacement unit that uses the same driveshaft & hand brake activating rod, saving somebody the costs of going back to a shorter unit, along with fitting nicely around legal verbiage.
There must be some information out there that can explain why this transmission exists.
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After suffering a season of having horrible brakes, even after a full brake job, I finally solved the problem. First of all, do not purchase ANY old mopar brake shoes that were made in China. The metal shoes themselves are fine, but the lining material must have been made out of ground up rocks. It is way too hard. They gave me nicely polished drums accompanied by horrible brake fade. I found a company in NY that has been in business since 1920, so they successfully compensated for the elimination of the old asbestos lining material. Rochester Clutch & Brake is a reliable source.
40+ years ago, when I had my shop, The Chrysler Emporium, we never had any issues with brakes on the old mopar cars because the shoe material was asbestos. Back then, we always used the Ammco 1750 brake adjusting tool, (since I had 2 of them), in order to insure optimal braking. For those of you who have ever used one, you know what I'm talking about. Fortunately, I was able to borrow one from Les Cordes, after I adjusted the brakes on his gorgeous 34 Dodge sedan & his 41 Dodge truck. He found a good source of shoes & arcing from an outfit in Sacramento, which made my job of adjusting his brakes routine.
I also decided to replace 3 drums on my car that had been turned over sized by an unknowing operator on the drum turning lathe. In order to "lap" the shoes to the drum diameter, I applied 220 grit, sticky-back sandpaper to the inside of each of the drums to satisfy the need to "arc" the shoes to the drums. No one around here has an arcing machine since most of them were scrapped when the ban on asbestos went into effect many years ago.
The "lapping" & the use of the 1750 tool produced some awesome braking in my 34 Aero Brougham sedan. I no longer have to plan my stops 1/4 mile in advance.
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Having dealt with pot metal re chroming many years ago, I found a source back then that solved the pitting problems with many dips through the copper solution, along with sanding in between coatings of the copper, which eventually fills the pits. I've also heard of using "Muggy Weld", but I'm not personally familiar with it. BOY those horns are gorgeous!!!!!!.
Regarding the hub cap removal; I find that a carpenters pry bar, which is fairly wide, helps to distribute the impact, and put a piece of solid cardboard on the painted surface underneath the bar, (not corrugated cardboard).
VERY glad to hear life is normalizing!!!
Jim
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I recently acquired a LR brake drum that I haven't been able to identify & would love some help. I was told Ford part numbers did have 5 digits, but I'm not sure if the number on this drum will ID it. It was thought to be for a 34 Dodge, but aside from resembling one, it would never work. It is a 10" with a 4 1/2 bolt circle & would accommodate 2" shoes. Thank you in advance for any help!!
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I would like to sell or trade brake drum # 37108 -2 for a 34 Dodge RR drum. It is very different than a 34 Dodge drum. My 34 drum was machined waaaaay oversized, (.140+), by someone totally unfamiliar with how to machine drums, (probably good at rotors). 37108 is currently .060 over. I'm sure I could utilize front or rear drums by pressing out the studs & swapping hubs. I'm trying to finish up a year-long issue with the brakes. Thanks in advance for ideas!!
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17 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
Use an abrasive wheel like a chop saw or even a hand held cutoff wheel. It will give a good flat cut and not add much heat. Wear leather gloves and be careful.
I used my Dremel with a thin cutoff wheel. Worked great!!
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I decide to stop by & see the fellow that pressed off old bearings & pressed on new ones for my OD transmission rebuild. He showed me this big jar of springs & he just happened to have 2 that were the same OD with a slightly larger ID & 3" long, needing shortening. The springs came out of an accumulator from a 350 turbo hydro. I made up some bushings to compensate for the larger ID. This fellow has a small machine shop in Weed, is a Syskiyou Co. native & rebuilds engines & transmissions & knows everybody that races cars & motorcycles. I should have gone to him a week ago. Thank you all for your selfless input. Now it's my turn to share the solution.
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4 hours ago, ply33 said:
You may want to check with Rare Parts in Stockton, California. I don't see the drag link or internal parts on their site for 1934 Dodge but your springs look the same as for the drag link on my 1933 Plymouth and they make a replacement drag link for my car so they might have the springs.
I'll check them out. Thanks!!!
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4 hours ago, keiser31 said:
I have a 1931 DB drag link with springs in it. I cannot disassemble them, but if you want it, you can try.
My drag link measures 10 1/2" without the tie rod attached. Does it look like it has 2 springs inside?
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Does anybody have a source for drag link springs for a 34 Dodge? Both of mine are broken. These are the last piece of the sloppy steering problem. I was able to rebuild the Intermediate steering arm unit, (VERY sloppy), have replaced all tie rod ends & need to deal with the drag link.
I have check all my Old Mopar sources & even some Ford sources. I'm not familiar enough with these springs to determine if there are some crossover applications.
The springs are both 1 7/8" long, (probably 2" when new), have 7 coils that are .200 in diameter with the inside diameter being 17/32" & the outside diameter being 15/16".
Many thanks in advance for any
assistance!!!
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7 hours ago, JACK M said:
I noticed the two different side mount colors.
Figured you had some kind of plan working.
I've been working on a vinyl sticky-back stencil, (boat name material), instead of masking tape like I used for the blue one. Too much bleed through at the edges. The stencil worked great, with no bleed through on the maroon wheel. I had the 2 side mount wheels sandblasted & powder coated primed. It made my rattle can paint job turn out better than expected.
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11 hours ago, keiser31 said:
So glad you get to enjoy the work you did! It has come a long way. Is that last photo at the Father's Day meet in Yreka?
Yes. This is the Dodge's 2nd year at the show. I finally got a photo after the crowd thinned out. There were over 200 cars this year & is the last year the current promoters are going to be involved, after 40 years. I think the Elks Club may have an interest going forward. The goal to make the show was to get the side mount fenders & hardware sorted out, which meant I really needed to remove fenders, radiator shell hood & related parts. I also came up with a painting template for the artillery wheels. I tried 2 colors to get some perspective for a possible future color scheme.
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It's been an eventful 18 months since Jack M. & Keiser helped drag the car out of Jack's trailer into my garage with frozen brakes with all the dust from many years in storage & unknown issues yet to be discovered. During that time I have grown to greatly appreciate the help offered by many members with tips, hints & advice on how to achieve the goal of making this old lady a reliable driver, thus avoiding a full ground up restoration. Besides, I'm not young enough to endure the time it would take & certainly not willing to spend the money necessary to accomplish such an endeavor.
The lessons learned dealt with my constant frustrations with long ago, previous owner(s), I refer to as DIY'ers, (not Jack or Dave), but since I am a DIYer, I should refrain from it being a negative thing. Most people do with what they have at the time & the constraints of available resources. Fortunately, I have been able to overcome most of the issues & am thankful the car was stored & not junked, which could have very easily happened during WW11, or just for lack of storage.
"I wonder how they did this at the factory" was my constant mantra after digging my way out of difficult challenges, (too many to list), but that is the intriguing part of preserving an 89 year old work of art.
While there are still many little projects left to keep me busy, I can now conclude that my original "Hankering" has been satisfied beyond expectations. Many thanks to all who have participated in this grand folly, (you know who you are).
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On 5/15/2023 at 8:59 AM, JACK M said:
Yikes,
I knew that the fenders had been replaced, but none of these questions ever came to mind.
I hope someone has this fender info you are looking for.
Are you still wanting to use the side mounts?
ALL the side mount fender hardware is attached & ready for the spares. Fender welting is installed between the fenders & radiator shell. I did some polishing on the fenders, especially where the headlights mounted & all I have to do is do a factory paint job on 2 wheels, mount 2 of the old WW tires, along with the 2 tire mount rear view mirrors. BTW Jack, the "bends" in the irons make it possible to avoid the tires, which I know you were concerned about. I attached a few photos that I know you would like.
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After noticing some anomalies with the front fenders BEFORE disassembly, I now have issues with additional quirks during reassembly, which leads me to asking help from you experts. Question; did the 121" frame models, (Convertible sedans & Aero Brougham sedans) receive the same front fenders that the 117" models had? The regular fenders on my 121" Brougham were replaced with side mount front fenders by the long ago East Coast owner. When I got the car, headlight & horn wiring was not connected, front fender brackets were not attached to the outer edge of the fenders, due to alignment issues, side mount fender well brackets were not attached to the frame, bumper bolts were not centered in the fender holes & there were 1/4" gaps between the lower portion of the radiator shell & the fenders, (also no fender welting). The hood has some contour issues at the radiator shell & cowl with large gaps front & rear. I was able to close the gaps by cutting 3/4" more threads on the radiator support rods. All these issues are what have caused me to think about continuity at the factory level. Has anybody experienced these anomalies before?? Looking forward to your answers,
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I can hardly wait!!!!
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Maybe these photos will explain the attachment to the frame better than I can describe it. (1000 words);)
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2 hours ago, countrytravler said:
Hi
I posted the pictures for reference only. Im going to do an article on the 33-34 Mopar racks. I hope!! lol
This is from a guy that is parting out his 33 Dodge coupe in Australia. His ads are on one of the FB pages.
Your package will be going out in a couple of days.
Thanks
Dave
Excellent!!! I'll supply some photos for you when I see if the brackets will fit. Do you have any photos yet of your rack?
Thanks,
Jim
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Thanks for the photo!! The rack appears to be in pretty much the same condition as the 2 I have. They both need some metal work. It looks like the one in the photo has had the chrome strips removed & the their holes filled in.??? Interesting condition, but at least it has the brackets.
Thanks Dave!!
assistance!!!
A mysterious overdrive transmission missing all the OD parts.
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
That 37 DeSoto had a fully functioning OD I assume. I know 39 on had electric solenoids. I do like the simplicity of the non-electric ODs.