prewarnut
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Posts posted by prewarnut
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7 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
Here is the book to read for the early days when Connecticut was the center of automotive development. I know I have read my copy at least four times over the years.
https://www.abebooks.com/Horseless-Carriage-Days-Maxim-Hiram-Percy/31654192899/bd
Bernie, Your book no doubt mentions Maxim's promotion of EV's. Here's another historical relic from his company.
Back on topic, I was in the low countries this spring. There, EVs are used for most smaller delivery trucks and vans (e.g. nearly all Mercedes Sprinter vans are electric). There it works as there are electric-generating windmills everywhere, distances are shorter and "in-town" speeds are low. They are plugging into a renewable grid. Not what we have here....
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4 hours ago, trimacar said:
The question I’ve never seen answered, if we’re all EV, what do we do with the gasoline produced?
Gasoline is a by-product of making, among other things, oils and grease and propane and butane and fuel oil and bitumen, the last being an ingredient of asphalt. We still need those.
Where does the gasoline get used?AV gas, Jet-A, JP-8 (but I don't know the proportions or quantities annually required).
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Safe to say you're not ordering one of these? 😁
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I like it - but can't imagine what it would take to get a new distributor cap.....photo from Hyman.
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Although and since not too much is known it is pure conjecture where the body was sourced. It is interesting no one has mentioned this but the body seems to have very similar distinctive lines as the Cole Aero Eight's although the hood/cowl are perhaps a touch flatter or not as high.
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I'm amidst a decade-long restoration of our 1907 Knabe. I have ordered parts and agree with $1K. If the bill is $8K a large amount is probably labor and/or refinishing work. If you're lucky to have a Bosendorfer you're in a whole other league though...
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But, with the 1001 how many '33 or '34 open Packards (not other marques) are available right now at a competitive price? I understand the concept of restoration costs forcing many examples to be parts cars but with this one I have a hard time seeing it not getting restored by someone at least in the garage (maybe I'll call you if it's still sticking around next summer😁). Thankfully it's not a coupe that someone is about to torch the roof off of....
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Frank, so are you convinced your '17 is using T.S.? Is lapping or seating them more difficult? It sounds like your situation was not too difficult. Nice design!
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5 hours ago, m-mman said:
If personal safety is high on your list of automotive attributes you shouldn’t even be physically close to a steam car.
A hot water high pressure boiler is a disaster waiting to happen. This is not something that you tinker around with. There’s a lot of valves and pipes and gauges that you need to fully understand.
It would take the skill of a steam engineer to operate one.I agree. At least this (below) won't happen as the boiler design is different. Given that railroad locomotives having a horizontal boiler the problem lay in low water not protecting the firebox. If going up grade (like these guys) the water is pushed back to cover. Once on a level grade again the firebox is uncovered an melts. Safety plugs are supposed to melt first but occasionally the superheated steam blows out sending 20 tons hundreds of feet in the air. The crew can't react fast enough and the water injector can't respond either. Basically railroad engineering is all about anticipating the next 10 minutes down the road. Often mistakes were of this lack of foresight. One really has to respect the old time railroad engineers of the 19th C. Here too I would say. Google crownsheet failure for some spectacular and grisly events of days past.
Photo from the defunct GDR news agency:
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8 hours ago, Fossil said:
Anyone else thinking Asbestos when looking at the boiler. 😲
I was wondering the same thing but the boiler was replaced so most should be gone. There may be residue at the top (unclear what that is). The bright white areas are probably a newer plaster like material. What could remain is what looks like the asbestos wrap around the feedline from the throttle to the superheater. Reducing heat loss there and then back out to the engine is paramount.
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I have no personal interest in the transaction....
If anyone has some plumbing skills. The body and interior looks original. Newer boiler apparently. Perhaps a good HPOF candidate otherwise.
Seller's description: "Up for auction is one of only a few remaining Unrestored Stanley Steam cars. Excellent condition for a 100 year old example. It has a replacement boiler which was made by the Bourden Boiler works in Vermont. They also rebuilt the burner and pilot and furnished a new burner pan. I have owned this car for 25 years and got it out of a barn where it had been for 45 years or more. Original interior all leather, has all of the gages, original condensor, water tank and most of the piping. Some piping has been replaced using correct size and fittings. Tires have been replaced also. The top was missing when I got the car but I found a correct size replacement at Hershey swap meet some 20 years ago. I have had this running but currently it needs more fine tuning than I can provide. Shipping to be arranged by the buyer. Body is solid and is aluminium with steel fenders and hood. Missing are the dash mounted clock and original generator. Taillite is damaged but included as are replacement housing and lense. This is a vehicle that would best be taken to a steam car expert to be sorted out and gotten back to what it should be. $500.00 due at end of auction, balance by bank transfer or cash on pickup. This comes with original owners manual and many years of steam car literature. Also have an aftermarket front bumper that I removed when I got the car and some other extra parts."
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Neat video. However, I thought (and just checked to make sure I am not ill at remembering this) per my book by Boesen and Grad there are no true SSKLs in existence post-war. A number of modified SSKs were faked. This looks like it has MB Classic technical support. So....what's the story here? Maybe I can ask Frank to translate.
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3 hours ago, alsfarms said:
For the Presidential Historians among us....
Can any of the other folks sitting around that huge camp table be identified? These few pictures are certainly historically of interest. Next, does anyone know if either the Locomobile, the trusted vehicle or the other vehicle.....kinds looks like a Buffalo offering...
🙂 still in existence today?
Al
I can't say for sure but the man to the left holding the tea cup and looking at the camera over his right shoulder looks like Andrew Mellon, the Secretary of Treasury. His business wealth prior to government service would be on par with the other individuals seated.
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Pretty neat. ....waiting for someone to comment on the whitewalls.😁
I remember making a metal Model A depot hack as a kid but this would have been more grand.
If you look online for modelling acrylic sheet you could find material for the windshields but cutting without making burrs or cracks is the challenge. I'm too far away from model making to advise but maybe someone here can. Cheers!
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Al there's this: https://www.mass.gov/how-to/request-a-rmv-history-search-or-photocopies
but as AJ mentioned I have no idea if it will work or go back far enough.
I know I lived and worked in Boston many years ago but man, the number of state agencies....It took me 5 minutes to find the motor vehicle dept out of their list as it is titled starting with "Massachusetts Registry of...." If I say anything more I'll probably be banned on account of politcal comments...
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On freshly painted or worked-on places I don't think I've had to go beyond 2000 grit before polishing - maybe 2500. The 3000 should surely be exceptional so I'm not thinking you'll need the 5000 grit pads. 2000 or 2500 is where the polisher takes over from my experience. Naturally the kind of paint and amount of cure are variables which matter though.
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On 10/30/2023 at 3:58 PM, hursst said:
Between yesterday and earlier today, I was able to tape up the body and get started on wet sanding. I started with 1500, but found it not aggressive enough, so went to 1200 (Photo 1). Although not easy due to the orange peel, the 1200 is working properly. Got about 90% finished with the front portion of the body. Going to press ahead, maybe up to 5000 grit.
I need to buy a DA polisher now. I have heard from friends and saw it in person, but I think I will get the mid-level Griots Garage polisher, then either buy their polishes or 3M's polishes. Any advice or opinions on what to buy are appreciated.
Once the body is sanded and polished, I'll probably just start building the rest of the car up and take a break from sanding/polishing the other panels for a little while. Easier access to the engine bay and trunk without the fenders on, plus no risk of damaging them if they are on the car at this point.
I do paint correction for myself and friends when I feel like it....There's a dozen combination of random-orbitals, pads and polishes. You can mix and match or buy all from one source or company. Starting out a lot of people chose the Porter Cable 7424. I went through two of those...I think your consideration is fine. I myself have moved up to a mid to higher (maybe not the highest) level of products by Rupes out of Italy. All are made by the same company. When I started there were 4 grades of polishes (and I would cheat only using 3) but now many have gone to two for most general purposes. It gets to be a real pain repolishing the same area 3 more times.....Considerations also includes the car itself. The Rupes unit can get bogged down on complex curves like concave areas but the MGA is mostly convex so not a problem for you. Also to consider are some polishes leave a lot of white dust but here nothing compared to the dust from sanding already. Other brands leave less dust. I would make sure you get a random orbital and not a pure orbital if you are uninitiated. This is one arena where you get out of it what you pay for so for me a little more investment has been worth it - but I am doing this a few times a year not just once. On the other hand if it goes well you might wind up attacking every car and truck you see, interior wood trim, then interior floors, then the glass shower door, linoleum counters, then...
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Since "postwar" and "Ferrari" came up there's a "one of one" on BAT right now (I have no affiliation or interest in the sale).....so rarity happens quite commonly it would seem.
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I just saw a J conv. coupe with top up, dual sidemounts with possibly an accompanying Auburn Phaeton in the SE this morning. I believe I've met the Duesenberg owner. I was driving so couldn't get the camera out fast enough. Nice to see people enjoying their iron!
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Al, How's your steering wheel restoration?
-Dan.
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Ahh yes pink.....The Pink Palace, the second oldest hotel on Waikiki.
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It's been awhile since we've been but the Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz is a nice get-a-way. Hiking, mini-golf, ice-skating (winter), canoeing and free cookies at 4:00. The carpets reek of wood burning fire smoke from the many fireplaces. It really feels Victorian. The only photo I can quickly find - the view from the main dining hall:
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Sorry to derail - I was playing off Craig's comment. I think the concept though is that automobile design has become a little homogenized. At this point there is little room to raking the windshield more, lower the chassis more, lengthen the wheelbase, raise the rear deck, etc. At some point we settle for a sweet spot within the boundaries of established lane widths, garage depth, etc. Now the designers have moved from the '90s jelly bean look to creasing the fenders and doors. Soon we'll be all about the jelly bean look again. You can only fold sheet metal so many ways.
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...sort of like this?
No offense to the Esprit, I always liked Giugiaro's design of this (on the outside).
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Not Mine - 1930 Packard 745 Roadster Project for Sale in Ware, MA - $15,000
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted · Edited by prewarnut (see edit history)
I have two Packard archeology questions for the Packard experts as these ads look like a risky assemblage of body parts....Obviously it would take a trip to inspect but:
1) does the Packard anti-theft number on the firewall have a correspondence to body style (in otherwords is there a current cross reference list to body type still available to check)? On the 745 the cowl looks like it would have stanchions for an open car but the rear is a closed coupe, right?
2) what is the original treatment of the rear inside fender liner to body on the coupe? I see the original welds on the top outer surface but no lead. I can't imagine all the lead came out but welting shouldn't go there....or did it?