prewarnut
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Posts posted by prewarnut
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With the demise of a few of the large scale chrome platers I would actually think smaller scale nickel plating (decorative plate) has a role to look into. It could satisfy the need for refinishing older speedometer and gauge bezels, hinges, escutcheons, window crank levers, external mirrors, bolts and clamps on wheel felloes, lock covers and lock heads, gas caps, etc. The utility of nickel plating is that it can go right onto a number of substances without an initial plating of a different metal. It is not very caustic as the kit I use utilizes boric acid which is a weak acid and used prevalently. Also the solution is cheap. The downside is that it takes a little while to get a thick plate, it requires a few anodes spread around the item, it requires air agitation, and ideally some heating. Someone could at least come up with their own "set-up" with specifications on the maximum size of item they could accommodate. Additionally if a closer to chrome appearance is needed I would think one could plate palliadium over this (although I have not tried that). Food for thought you entrepreneurs!
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They no longer park cars along that section of the fairway....
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7 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:
Wasn't there a Packard at Pebble Beach that rolled a bit and got real wet?
That was the Hilton Head Concours. They needed 3 sets of experts to retrieve: a tow company, divers, and gator experts.
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I had looked at someone's schematic explanation on-line with narration and it seemed there were more (maybe on the condensing cars?) In essence I somewhat wonder how one knows what the pressure is within all the lines? Or is the water automatic working correctly? I suppose the steam automatic can be figured out when/if the burner goes out. In essence if one wanted to get one up and running (with or without disassembly of each component) how are they tested? Probably no easy short answer and I imagine a Stanley technical service manual in period or afterwards would be consulted...
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I think we have seen through the years many period photos and literature supporting white walls on almost every decade of car. Walt has also shown stylistically when and when not to do such (e.g. are there side-mounts and are they covered?) I do however mostly fall in the anti-white wall camp unless it helps the particular vehicle (e.g. a '30s Cord, an otherwise black '20s Pickwick P1). The more important question (for another thread so I don't hijack yours) is what can we do, and why the h@#& does everyone keep painting the wheel spokes/rims a contrasting color???? Unless supported in the literature like a '36 Cadillac with chrome hubcaps please stop painting wheels red, yellow, neon green, orange.....Otherwise your photo examples above look nice with whitewalls.
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As a note, I believe I read that contemporary owners have modified the rear brakes and essentially switched them so that the main braking by pedal is on the internal shoes and parking brake on the external band. It possibly requires different or larger shoes but worth investigating/verifying. This is a mod I'd probably do. The couple Stanleys for sale are tempting. The burgundy 750 is just beautiful, the green one might be another one at an affordable price, alas a lot of surface rust is on it begging for a bunch of nickel plating and repainting...Good luck!
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On 3/16/2024 at 9:16 PM, Paul Dobbin said:
Great day for a ride in the country was today 3/16/24. We organized a ride into Georgia for the Clayton Block Party.
They closed off the main street for a Cruise in and about 100 cars showed up. We led 8 cars from Franklin.
Franklin to Highlands was a most beautiful stretch a few years ago. Of course after the 5th hairpin holding the steering wheel upside-down at 25 mph and hoping oncoming motorcycles weren't going to cross the double yellow by more than a foot or two my wife just about had enough. Getting down from Highlands is another matter altogether - not sure I'd try prewar brakes. I've not been to Clayton but looks nice!
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The one thing I wonder is with so many check valves on these, how does one know they are functioning correctly?
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I've done gold, nickel and copper plating (soon to do silver for a project) - my friend does rhodium plating. I use a different company which I feel is a little more transparent in the process but doesn't supply zinc or cadmium type products so I have no direct experience here. I would say the following: 1) this company appears to require you zinc plate first and then through nitric and sulfuric acid exchange, deposit chromium ions to mimic a cadmium look. 2) the initial step of zinc plating can be done different ways and the zinc is chiefly going to protect the substrate from rust or oxidation. Depending on the way it is done you may or may not get good protection. I don't know enough about it to comment here or to comment on your purpose (rust protection or decoration only?) 3) I am not certain if this company has you "electrostatically" cleaning or treating the metal first as I do in order to get uniform coverage. If not done you can get spotty results with some substrates or some types of plating (e.g. nickel) 4) I think the zinc plating step is relatively benign. The second step with the sulfuric and nitric acid for the cadmium "look" is a more careful step. 5) the final step is not a true cadmium plate from what I can tell but I'm not completely sure. In essence you may want to experiment with some bolts and see how it goes. There's also writings by other authorities on-line that show how to expose the final product to a salt spray to check corrosion resistance. All of this is beyond my capabilities or interests when it comes to plating but this is what I can deduce that may be important for your endeavor. I don't want to make this sound horrible - and I think the plating could be done in your shop - but I'd hate for you to do complicated carb castings only to have a non-uniform color or corrosion resistance. Also some metal plating will also "build-up" too much, blocking threads although I do not think that will happen here.
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I like the "etc, etc" on the body plaque!
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...by the way, while the herringbone woodwork looks a little irregular in coloration or staining it probably looks better in person. I would advise the future owner probably leave it as is or ensure a real good professional attend to it. It is not an easy restoration color-wise as I can attest to on a George I and George II period pieces I have touched up with shellac, wax and stain. The Brits were masters of subtly and the subtly here is to have contrasting, veined color which is not tremendously proud of the surrounding wood work.
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I can only comment stylistically....DeCampi notes it is a Hooper Sedanca which sold to Cleveland in 1928 - so it would appear an original body. I wonder how a British body made it over here for this purpose but presumably special ordered on account of the style offered. The front inside cowl/dash is more traditional/recessed maybe older styled. The increased use of herringbone woodwork is not common on the Brewsters here. The jump seats are not very well integrated. Overall it exudes quality and luxury. However the integration of stylistic and mechanical accoutrements in the cabin were a little improved in the following decade. Externally the fenders were undoubtedly updated. I think the blind quarters are a little "heavy". Nonetheless a quality car which is markedly different than any other on offer now. The market? not my guess. On a different note I wonder how modern driver's feel about rearward visibility when usually being slower than most other traffic. Forget adding a rearview mirror on this one....
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I think the answer can be found on the graph.....😁
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8 hours ago, powerband said:
I rolled a '64 bug with the axles folding underneath, landed on wheels
My mom did too! 🙃
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Our house has a lot of copper and I added copper flashing to the tops of our shutters 7 years ago to protect the exposed tenons. I used (apparently) copper plated nails at a big box store driven into thick copper flashing I bought and bent up. On inspection last year the copper is intact but somehow some corrosion on the nails are evident now. As per this source, the copper usually remains protected but not the steel: https://copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/pdf/galvanic_corrosion.pdf
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Ouch, I was going to say it would be easy to remove the dome and then cut for a 4th ring. If this company makes the pistons instead of just sourcing them, on a new order could they make the wrist pin area higher and undrilled allowing you to have a local machine shop do the final drilling and alignment of such?
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14 hours ago, BlueDevil said:
The original looks like this. Any clue on how to duplicate the letters/numbers?
I've seen someone acid-etch these for a different project on-line, somewhat like making IC circuit boards. PM and I'll see if I can find the link if you want.
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I did not see the lubrication chart but hope to get back to the library in another 4-5 months. I was a little side-tracked, unanticipated, into the Riker documents which are separate from the Locomobile archive. I would think a better copy of this exists. Frank may also know. Now that I have a better understanding of how the archives are organized I can probably have a better shot at finding things for people. Stay tuned.
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I've mentioned this before on here, this is not a hard one (you just need to know where to look). If you can't find an original - such as above- you might want to consider contacting a clock/watch supplier, a barometer supplier and/or an independent glass producer. These can be sourced or remade. 30 minutes with an online search will probably yield you a number of options. Hopefully these tips broaden peoples' thinking (outside the box).
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It's an established definition if you look at various online dictionaries with the emphasis that the war referred to is WWII. Other than the reference for the changes in automobiles other changes in life occurred and there was no going back, hence my nostalgia and interest and my on-line handle despite being born quite a bit later. Given that the war was ~6 years long with a number of years of reconstruction later there were a number of changes outside automobile design/production. As examples (I know people are going to find counter points: "but that was invented before the war." these are general changes at about that time) we (mostly in the U.S. mind you) went from wearing pocket watches to wrist watches, electronics went from vacuum tubes to ICs, streetcars to buses, small roads to highways, plastered rooms to gypsum wall board, hand washing to home electric washers/driers, city living to suburban living, city shopping to shopping malls, propeller to jet aviation, (slightly later we went from coal powered steam locomotives to diesel/electric trains), local produce to more larger scale agriculture and production/distribution/growth hormone/pasteurization/preservative-laden food. I could go on but just prior to mid-century a significant substantial change in living (for many) occurred.
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One concept to understand is that the processes available now allow you to reproduce a part - when you don't even have it in the hand! By that I mean there is now software that can register a 3-D model (e.g. bas-relief of the acorn leaves on the motometer's front face, or an escutcheon or dash plate) just from a good JPG or like photo. There quite a bit of "clean-up needed" so this isn't like a Polaroid on-shot deal where you press a button and a part is made but it is getting there. I haven't tried this yet but there are examples on line of this process from some commercial companies. It can involve 3-D laser cutting but I imagine 3-D printing could be alternately tried with this. An important issue is that one still needs some basic dimensions to scale it with if one doesn't have access to the part.
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His Mercedes 600 sold a little shy of $300K in 2020 but that's a 600...(interestingly Roy Orbison's sold for $100K more).
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28 minutes ago, 8E45E said:
Does Ferrari still offer a manual transmission?
Niet, Nien, Nada.....Their current offerings are dual clutch automated transmissions - a step beyond the initial F1 set up.
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One thing to keep in mind is that if one is using one of these CAD programs it is important to know the type of file it will produce (if one is then submitting to a commercial operation to fabricate outside of making a plastic 3-D printed object at home which is to be submitted for lost wax, etc). I spent hours on one project only to find I would have to start over again on different software as the company needed it in a different format. Recently, I have used NanoCAD for 2-D renderings (laser cutting of sheet/plate, openings, filigree) and have had commercial laser cutting done for me but the program will do 3-D as well. It is free to download up to version 5. It is now up to version 21 or so but the early version is still just as good and can allow a newcomer to attempt this before deciding to pay the outlay or cost of software for a later version.
Locomobile 8 Cylinder Gathering Place
in Locomobile
Posted
I haven't seen any contemporary ads for used Locomobiles beyond the 1929 model year in numerous papers online. I wonder if the '30 is a body swap of sorts but not sure. This notice below poses the absolute outer limit when the factory, as a car company, was sold for a final time on 2/2/32. Shortly thereafter a public business event was held there suggesting it was cleared out for show space. Beyond that the history of the building is known. I'll be back this summer and can look through the historical files again and see if documentation shows when production exactly wound down.