Drakeule

Frank: MAARC-me too! Hope you get a chance to come up to one of the Sunday meetings (next S; 16 July); IMO, just as good as Radioactivity.

Well, I am finished with soldering the various value caps into the upper half; a very tedious process! (SS 11.) SS 12 shows how I kept track of everything! SS13 shows where the combo of buffer caps and resistors goes; there is actually a "coffin" which covers that area.The outline is faintly visible. This provides even more sheiding against RF interference. Mine is missing, so it was suggested that I make one from brass screen and use copper tape which will be soldered to the edges, thus making it truly electrically sheilded. I am attempting to locate the buffer caps,but will just fabricate from ones I have if I can't. SS 14 shows the tube which houses three 20 uf capacitors. Many guys "restuff" these with modern electrolytic caps,so as to make it look more original (a lot on that on you tube.) I am going to attempt that myself. After these two tasks are done, I just need to get some correct dial cord before reassembling the entire radio (i.e., resoldering and splicing the 17 or so wires back to their original positions.

All: Eddie-O's above comment points out exactly why I am doing it myself. These guys want a king's ransom to repair your old radio. BTW, my first degree was in electronics engineering technology (albeit that was 40 years ago!); and I am a member of the National Capital Radio and TV museum. I have taken their radio repair class twice, and have some real horsepower in the form of several, genuine radio repair engineers at the museum's workshop.In fact, I have been able to raid their cache of parts at will; giving back donations to the museum. Dick Maio (my former instructor and friend) and the other instructor, Oscar Leary are, without being too dramatic about it, my "touchstone" guys.They will also, for a fee, repair your radio. The most competant fellows I have run into concerning radio repair. In fact, if anyone lives within shouting distance of the museum (Bowie, Md.), I suggest you visit; a fascinating place to learn about the history of radio and television.

I don't know why but the pictures in the last post reversed themselves, SS 9 is the lower one (sorry for any confusion.)

Pretty much finished up the lower half of the radio today.Getting the dial indicator to work smoothly was more of a challenge than I thought; I think that besides getting new dial cord, it's pretty much done. I presently have some heavy carpet thread doing duty; however, dial cord is readily available (and much more durable!) SS 9 shows the cap that shoots off parallel with the 6V power cord(.5 uf/600 WVDC.) I replaced it shortly after taking this picture.You see these spark arrestors all over before car radions, as everything in the car (e.g., crankshaft, generator, ,etc.) evidently produces RF. These caps will short that stray voltage to ground. The above is also why yopu see so much shielding around the tubes and other components in general. SS 10 shows the next step of the project: recapping the radio by replacing all the unravelling tubular paper caps"Christmas crackers" (that's what they remind me of anyways!)

Today, I tackled the dial assembly, including the infamous right hand escutcheon switch which moves through the bands. A really frustrating and complicated affair.That cylinder sits spring loaded in the upper chrome assembly, SS 7 shows the wheel with string that turns the cylinder, and SS 8 is the back view. Think a wind up toy that requires a lot of cranking before it works: the cylinder is on a shaft and you need to crank it several times to get enough tension so that the right band will snap back and show correctly in the window. A couple of Q tips held the cylinder against the inside of the chrome box, so that I could bring the cord down past the pulley and screw it to the main wheel, visible in SS 7. SS 6 below shows the whole thing back together

Okay, all....against my better judgement, I have decided to somewhat document my restoration of the Super Sonomatic. Initially, I determinted that to assess the fairly complicated push button/manual tuning mechanism, I had to remove the top section from the lower half, which contains the push button cage. Picture SS1 is upper (the one with all those toasted capacitors!); SS 2 is the lower (with the push button cage.) I had to unsolder/cut about 20 wires to do the above, carefully tagging each one..... Of course, on the standard BC band radio (980650), the tuning is fairly simple: just turn the right hand knob, or use the pre set push buttons (which you've previously set to select stations.)However, with the SS, the right hand escutcheon knob tunes you to one of 5 bands (standard BC and 4 SW bands.) This is indicated by the small plastic scroll ,which has the different bands etched on the plastic film (as seen in SS 2 and SS 5.) I can't believe that I was actually able to separate the silk screened film from the plastic scroll, by using blasts of compressed air and a dental pick; the film came off with some damage, but basically intact! From there, I was able to clean the film using a q tip and some windex. Granted ,I did end up rubbing some of the numbers off slightly.However, it's mostly intact, and much clearer. The scroll is spring loaded and when the string pulls it to indicate the different bands, it has a spring under tension which rolls the scroll back to the band that it's presently on. Sounds a little complicated, doesn't it? Hope I can get this thing to work after so much time.. Now for reassembling the lower half. As I progress, I'll detail more and include pictures. Hopefully, it will become clearer as I go along. P.S.Oh, I hope I can get this thing back together and get it working...

I just acquired a 1941 Super Sonomatic (980660) that is in need of a complete overhall. The bandswitch is completely frozen, which necessitates removal of the bottom half from the top. Does anyone out there have any experience with this model? Specifically, what moves in that lower half to switch bands? Also, the clutch for the push buttons energizes when I turn it on; what do I need to do to get it to return to manual tuning? I will post some pictures later on. Thanks in advance, Charlie Drake, Potomac, Md.

On CL Washington DC: https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/atq/d/potomac-brass-era-vintage-car-trunk/7629201221.html 150$ Nice condition; perfect for your old Buick. Pick up only. However, I will be at Buick regionals in Morgantown next week. I could bring it then.

40 Super sedan parking brake cable R side of picture is the rear. Hope this helps. C Drake

It should be a "open ended lock washer" (not sure what the official name is) that snaps in that groove. I think it should have a spring that goes around that barrel. Hard to get to, as I remember (and that was with a lift!) DRY FIT everything before you assemble; I recall that the parking brake cable that I got from Bob's was a skosh bigger in diameter, made in " you know where." I think I dumped my photos of the assembly that I put on my '40 Super sedan. If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll take a pic and attach. VR, C Drake

NOS "Regal Products" (aftermarket) Trunk handle with keys. Extremely slight pitting (hardly noticible) from sitting on shelf for 80+ years. 50$ plus shipping. Charlie Drake, Potomac, Md. (301) 346-6548

SOLD!

Here's pic.

Gary: I just gave this post a cursory glance, but it looks like you have done a magnificent job detailing the process.Awaiting the rest of the story. Bravo! Charlie Drake, Potomac, Md.

Will need replating. I was using it as a place holder while mine was being replated. $100. Pick up only. I will be at Morgantown,Also Hersjey and possibly Carlisle. I'll take a pic and attach tomorrow. Charlie Drake, (301) 346-6548

Nice car. Older repaint, new headliner, seat and door cards redone.Rust through in both rear sides of trunk (however, not structural.) Runs great. 9k$/OBO. (301) 346-6548. In Potomac, Md. <Drakeule@verizon.net> Email for more pictures; currently on CL Washington DC

Response to Buick looks fine for 39: I have a 76S but,unfortunately, it's not the one owned by Glenn Miller (he's the bandleader that disappeared over the English Channel.) I have the car's history going back to its sale at Kelly Buick in downtown Baltimore; the salesman who sold the car affixed his tag in the glove compartment. I have never before owned a car where I've had an unbroken provenance; it's a rare thing and I count myself as lucky. So who out there knows about Miller's car?

Mine leaks except when fully open. Anybody have a spare? (or can tell me where to get one.) Thanks, CD, Potomac, Md.

After waiting about 9 months, I finally have Diamondback Auburns for my '40 Roadmaster! So, I have my old 3.5 " BF Goodrich "Silvertown" whitewalls 7.0 X 15s for sale. Date code is 1994. Just perfect for a roller car or to drive around short trips during restoration. For what it's worth, plenty of tread left. One glitch: I mounted 1 old tire as my spare, so I only have 3 for sale! However, if you can provide me with a usable 7.0 X 15 tire, I will consider selling all 4. Pick up only; will not ship. $125 Charlie Drake, Potomac, Md, 20854,

Bob; not yet; awaiting NOS handle so I can (hopefully) switch out mechanisms. I want to use the original key.

Many thanks, but I don't think my handle has a pin! I have tried to attach a picture, but this site won't let me.......

Mine is broken. I was told both sides are the same? Thanks all, C Drake, Potomac, Md.

OK all and many thanks, but I am getting a NOS trunk handle, and I simply want to transfer the lock mechanism ( i.e., using the original key) from the old handle to the new. What is the secret to getting the lock portion out of the old one? Thanks, CD

Anybody know how to remove the keyed section from the trunk handle barrel? I imagine that they are mostly the same from year to year? Thanks, CD, Potomac, Md.