Glen Andrews
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Posts posted by Glen Andrews
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What a car! Can of starting fluid on the front seat?
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7 hours ago, JACK M said:
I am not a Chevy guy but have worked on a few.
The ad says 235 engine. Is it?
Looks like a 230 to me.
I may be all wrong about this, but I thought that the 235s still had the V/C bolts thru the top and the next generation along the sides like this one.
Most likely a 235, the 230/250 engines had the distributor closer to the front, maybe around #2; this distributor is in the middle and there is a draft tube present.
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On 7/3/2023 at 7:49 PM, csearider said:
Tom, Thank you so much....We do things and then wonder what we "dooed"...That is so comforting to know it worked...seems cam is same too according to the group catalog most order from....tks again.....A BIG HELP and confidence builder!
Do you have a jack stand under there?
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WOW, thanks for this topic and thread, makes me rethink about safety around my '38 Chevy pickup that still has the original fan, too many times I have revved the engine with the hood open. Back in 1983 I was driving a 26' Ford box truck from Tampa to Tallahassee and somewhere in the middle of nowhere (Chiefland, FL) while doing about 60 and not able to hear much with the windows open and the roar of the engine, when all of a sudden there was a large banging sound and the front part of the truck was shaking, pushed in the clutch and as the engine came to an idle the shaking stopped and I coasted into a "watering hole" thinking the engine had blown. Upon opening the hood I noticed upward dents at the front, one or two of the blades flew off, luckily not hitting anything important. There was a spacer between the fan and the water pump, and having no tools with me I noticed a tool box in a pick up at the watering hole, went in and found the guy and asked to borrow a wrench.
Somehow I think I took out 3 of the spacer bolts and loosened the fourth one enough to rotate the fan blade around in order to put some of the bolts back and then removed the last bolt and removed the fan, that way the fan belt stayed in place too. I made it to Tallahassee okay but once in traffic there I had to stop every so often to cool off but got to the warehouse location, next day got a new fan, and all was good.
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The rear disc brakes on GM vehicles of the 80's into the 90's typically wore out the front pads way before the rear pads, often times the rear pads never wore out. The GM calipers were supposed to self adjust by use of the parking brake pedal, and many drivers did not use the parking brake, just put it into park; so the brake pedal would drop after many miles of driving and since the rear pads were not adjusting out enough to do much work toward stopping the car then the parking brake pedal would drop because the pads were not adjusting outward. The pistons in the rear calipers were a "ratcheting" type, the picture of the square block tool a few posts before this post was the tool used to ratchet or screw the piston back in when rebuilding the caliper or replacing the rear pads. The pistons did tend to leak.
Corvettes from 1965-1982 used fixed mounted calipers front and rear and each had four pistons, the front pistons were slightly larger diameter than the rear, and the same brake pad was used front and rear. The parking brake system consists of two small brake shoes on each side that fit inside the rear rotor, it's a miniature brake drum within the rotor. Jay Leno used this Corvette Caliper set up on one of his early Teens? very heavy vehicle because he wanted it to stop.
It's personal preference as to putting on rear disc brakes as someone said, maybe for bragging rights, or it's a car that's going on some type of race track and disc brakes will perform better in spirited driving. Once again, it's personal preference and spend your money the way you want, as long as it works and you're satisfied!!!!
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They look very much like the ones on the rear of my 1938 Chevrolet half ton pick up, I know mine have the Delco Remy words and I think Lovejoy is on them too, not sure about the numbers. These might be "single action" shocks where there is resistance in one direction, I think on the rebound side. These type shocks were used on many GM vehicles, could be for a bigger truck depending on the length of the attached arm. Hope this helps somewhat.
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A bit over 30 years ago I cut a clipping out of the newspaper, still have it, it was a quote by Red Adair, the veteran oil well firefighter: "if you think an expert's expensive, wait until you hire an amateur."
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I kind of like the color blue: here is a 1976 Bright Blue Metallic coupe that I had from 1990-2008. The other one is a 1999 Nassau Blue coupe that I currently own, couldn't pass up this "kodak moment" a couple of years ago while driving through central Virginia on US17 above Fredericksburg on my way to the Corvettes at Carlisle show. Do not have a picture but back in 1976-79 I had a 1972 coupe that was Bryar Blue, a one year only color used on approximately 1749 Corvettes. The two pictured here were rare colors for each production year. Hope you enjoy and a wonderful Fourth of July to all.
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2 hours ago, Bhigdog said:
Anybody?.................Bob
Bob; the truck transmission is different from the car, mainly gear ratios; the '41 coupe transmission would have the linkage on the left side since by then cars went to column shift. The truck transmission as you know from your '39 pickup has the shift linkage on the top of the transmission. I have a '38 Chevy pickup, HC. I just looked through my 1942 Master Parts book, and shows the transmission part #590951 for 37-39 truck; and #591187 for 41-42 cars; these are 3 speed transmissions.
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I'll add this, it's my understanding that the tailpipe must end at least at the rear of the passenger compartment of a vehicle; I'm not sure but commercial vehicles might be excluded.
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On 10/3/2022 at 2:22 PM, JonW said:
Hazy windows, especially the windshield, drive me out of my mind. I recently bought a pristine 1973 GTO from the original owner. Beautiful car, but the glass was hazy. It seemed the more I tried to clean it with glass cleaner, the worse and more smeary it got. Yes, vinegar in water probably works, but I was saving that as a very last resort. I washed my microfiber towels by themselves with microfiber towel cleaner, didn't make any difference. Tried numerous brands of window cleaner, but to no avail. The haze and streaking would never go away. This was really driving my nuts. So, last night at midnight I went out to the garage determined to find a solution. And I did. The name brands may or may not make a difference in the end result, but I was working with what I had on hand. Here's my formula for success:
1) Clean the windows inside and out with Sprayway glass cleaner to remove any dirt.,
2) Wax the outside of the windows with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax.
3) Clean and buff the inside of the windows with Adam's Polishes waterless car wash spray.
That's it, absolutely perfect windows.
Jon: Back in October I used your above glass cleaning formula on my '99 Corvette, the Meguiars Cleaner Wax worked out really nice, then in early November I drove about an hour to a car show, well that morning here in NC it was a little cool, moist, and some fog around, well all my windows fogged up with condensation on them (outside) and I had to hit the wipers so i could see, the wax kind of smeared a bit so when I got back home I cleaned the remaining wax off the windshield. So now I use a cleaner first, and then use the Sprayway foam soap, and very painstakingly dry the glass with new clean 100% cotton cloths and microfiber towels, and of course when the glass is cool and in the garage.
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Excellent! The entire story and picture; very cool!!!!!!!
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1 minute ago, JACK M said:
Thanks all.
The system got drained and flushed and refilled.
Most teams will be taking the karts apart during off season so are getting fresh fluid fairly often.
As far as mixing goes, this was known that it should be considered temporary at best.
The 'doesn't mix' makes all the sense in the world. and was dealt with.
We will be considering the options next tear down.
I know about the foaming problems with DOT5. And know that rebleeding after time will be helpful with that.
But since racers are always in a hurry this may be the deciding factor.
These are tiny systems, probably less than two ounces. The master piston is about 1/2 inch in diameter and the lines are tiny, often translucent so it is easy to see air in the lines.
Mine are two piston calipers that are about an inch and a half in diameter and push on both sides of the disc. Mine also runs two lines from the M/C, one to each side of the caliper. There are many variations of these systems, but all are quite basic.
Jack; I realize that your post opens things up as far comments on brake fluid and doing brake jobs. The thing is you were talking about guys racing go karts, and racers just want to race when given the chance, so if someone there offered the guy transmission fluid and said it would work the guy would probably try it just so he could get out there and run some more laps; and knowing quite well that he would be redoing his brake system so he could be ready to go racing next week. Personal experience, in the late 70's I ran a half mile dirt track car in the (straight) 6 cylinder class, chevy 250", and always carried extra small parts and such. During warm ups one night a racing friend pulled back in and had a miss in his engine, pulled off the valve cover and noticed a broken rocker arm and said something like: "dang, can't race tonight" to which I told him I had two rocker arms in my stuff and gave him one. At that point about the only thing that would have made him happier is if someone else had given him a pillow case full of $100's. So like I said, racers want to race and make some laps; keep having that fun.
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12 hours ago, Bloo said:
I'm happy for you. 😛
I don't have that much trouble either, but had the gotchas pounded into my head in tech school. Look around on the internet, lots of people wont use it because they "don't like the soft pedal" and will insist it is "compressible". The average person who is accustomed to bleeding DOT3 fluid never gets all the air out when using DOT5.
I agree Bloo, the average person used to bleeding Dot 3 (and/or 4 and 5.1), typically will have issues when bleeding Silcone Dot 5 especially when pumping the pedal in order to bleed the system. When using either type of brake fluid I like to start with gravity bleeding and finish up with one, or two, pedal pump and release. Since Silicone aerates easily the pedal pumps are done slower and more deliberate. When starting a Silicone Dot 5 brake job be careful not to drop the bottle of fluid or even bounce it on the work bench, if you do, go work on something else for a couple of days and let the Silicone fluid sit so all the tiny pin hole size air bubbles in the fluid have time to disappear, you just can't get into a rush with Silicone brake fluid.
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Hmmmm, Clear Title? makes it easy to transfer ownership; for what's there and available I think I'd rather have clean paperwork; I'll get it running eventually! Almost tempting to drive down there (565 miles from NC) check it out, find something, rent a Uhaul trailer and bring it back.
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5 hours ago, Jolly_John said:
Hey, Jack....this is likely more info than any of us want....but, here's a link with the long answer from Valvoline. Scroll down to the "CAN WE MIX BRAKE FLUIDS?" section. The short answer is that topping off or mixing DOT 3 with DOT 5.1 is O.K., but DOT 5 (not the same as DOT 5.1) shouldn't be mixed with either DOT 3 or DOT 4.
I didn't know anything about DOT 5.1 before reading the article below. I learned DOT 5.1 is a non-silicone base version of DOT 5. Therefore, DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 types of braking systems and fluids. John
https://www.valvoline.com/en-eur/vehicle-maintenance-brake-fluid/
Thanks for posting the Valvoline link, excellent and concise explanation.
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Dot 5 brake fluid is Silicone, and should not be mixed with DOT 3, 4, or 5.1; and, Dot 5 Silicone is not for use with Anti Lock Brake systems. Silicone Dot 5 aerates very easily, so if it was in an ABS system and you put that vehicle into an ABS stop the pedal would no doubt get mushy from the air bubbles forming as the internal ABS valves are pumping away trying to stop the vehicle without locking the brakes/tires. Dot 5 Silicone doesn't absorb moisture (water) so it will last longer without problems in antique cars that sit around and do not get driven much. 25 years ago I put Silicone Dot 5(which my fluid has a purple tint) in my 1938 Chevy pickup, and have not had any issues such as a leak, or a pull to one side when braking. Maybe not everyone will have good experiences with Dot 5 Silicone as there are other factors involved during installation, where and how the vehicle is used and stored. Dot 3, 4, 5.1 will eventually absorb moisture and cause problems as Bloo has mentioned; and, that is why these types of brake fluid should be changed every couple-few years in order to keep the brake system functioning at a high standard. However practically all "daily driver cars" don't get this done probably because the brakes are functioning by stopping the car and the brake fluid is something the car owner doesn't see, it's a mystery so why spend money on it?! Jolly_John thanks for posting that Valvoline link on brake fluid, that is an excellent and concise explanation of brake fluid. I've done many brake jobs through the years and plan to continue doing so. I spent nearly 25 years working for Raybestos Brakes and picked up some good information about brakes along the way. Also been in many repair and tire shops and saw brake related things/problems on cars that would just about make my hair stand straight out.
Jack M: I'm not really sure what long term issues you will have by mixing Silicone Dot 5 and Dot 3, the two will not mix, put some oil in a clear glass with some water and shake it up, the two won't mix together and blend, and that's what will happen with two different types of brake fluid, just won't mix and blend, and will not be safe in a brake system. Dot 3, 4, 5.1 can be mixed together, but is not recommended.
(Silicone brake fluid has been discussed earlier this year on this technical forum)
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22 hours ago, EmTee said:
I do like it better with the blackwalls, but it's beautiful either way...
Thanks for the compliment EmTee; I got the whitewalls just for fun, just to give the truck some wow or pop factor, and I got some trim rings too; and as I said the white walls are mainly for local car shows. Thirty years ago when I pulled this truck out of the shed it didn't have any tires, just wheels! Forgot to mention it's a 1938 Chevrolet. There are a lot of beautiful cars pictured in this thread, white walls give them a different look; enjoy your vehicles everybody.
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I have two sets of wheels with mounted tires, one with the whitewalls, and the correct set of wheels with black wall tires (spare also) that are correct BF Goodrich Coker tires. If I do a local area car show I put on the whitewalls, R & R four hubcaps and twenty four lug nuts; and while going through the AACA judging levels the correct wheels with the black walls were on my vehicle. At Hershey this year I was getting a repeat preservation so I left the whitewalls on (my vehicle has a Senior Grand National repeat.)
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11 hours ago, Restorer32 said:
Where did you go to school in Lancaster? College? Restorer32/F&M class of '71.
Millersville State College, 1971; at that time we lived in some apartments in Lancaster I think they were on Wabank or Wabash street. I'm originally from Reading, my roommate was from Denver (PA), lost track of him around 1975, I've been in NC in and around Raleigh for fifty years. Thanks, take care, Glen
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January of 1971, semester break, my roommate and I drove from Lancaster, Pa to Ft Lauderdale in my '56 VW karmann ghia coupe. The car was running a little rough so I took it to a VW dealer in Ft Lauderdale for a basic tuneup, points, condenser, rotor, maybe plugs, so the service guy tells me I had zero compression in #4 and he could fix it in a couple of hours; two poor college students in a 15 year old VW, yeah right. I declined the valve job and paid for their tuneup, on a credit card. So we left there on a Friday around noon and about 11 hours later we were in Santee, SC, and the engine was barely running so we checked into a little motel. I got up Saturday morning, popped the distributor cap off and one side of the points was burned away and were almost closed. There were three gas stations there and no one had points to fit, told me there was a VW dealer in Orangeburg about 30 miles away so I caught a ride in the back of a pickup truck, there was a cold snap and the temp was about 30 degrees. Got to the VW dealer, got points and condensor, hitch hiked back to Santee. The only tools I had were a small adjustable wrench and a screwdriver with a phillips on one end and a flat blade on the other, my roommate smoked so I said give me your matches, set the points that way (.013 basically) put the cap on, the car fired right up made it back to Lancaster, PA late that night. The car ran fine so I did not readjust the points and it was still running fine when I sold it in June of 1971.
I have told the story to my kids and other people and usually end with "try doing that with these newer type cars." So for a few years now this old car guy carries a AAA card in my wallet for the newer type cars in the driveway.
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15 hours ago, kejoxof said:
Hello. We are in the middle of renovating our very 60s home. We have a huge 4 car garage which is around 70sm that is currently all tiled in tiny brown Metalic mosaic tiles!! Basically was after a cost effective and practical solution that could cover the tiles and still look nice because I hate the tiles. We have looked into basically ever "epoxy" type concrete and have been advised to stay away as it doesn't do well on top of tiny tiles like these. Concreting would cost a bomb. We have also looked into "polyurea" type coatings, they look amazing but again have got quotes around the 10k mark because of the size and prep work involved in the area. And I really don't want to fork out 10k on a garage floor. Why couldn't they just leave it as concrete!! So much easier. Anyways just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas, suggestions or perhaps have had some luck with covering tiles successfully. Thanks guys.
Sorry, don't have any easy and inexpensive solution; sounds like you have checked into all the possibilities to change the floor. Maybe the snap together tiles (some type of plastic or whatever they're made of), and the tiles are typically one foot square or so, and those would sit on top of the mosaic tiles. That may not be a cheap solution, but it would be less labor intensive, especially if one of the fixes would be to scrape up the tiny brown tiles and resurface the concrete so an epoxy coating could be applied. Good luck with solving this one.
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Well guys I don't do a lot of online shopping, I rarely go to the grocery store-someone else in the house does that ( I carry it into the house), do get some flyers in the mail but by the time I get them out of the box (it's a new neighborhood with a centralized box station) and my box is low so by the time I get the flyers out coupons are falling out and once I pick up the crap that hit the ground I can't wait to wad it all up and stuff it into the trash, man I have it tough! not really. I have plenty of things saved in my garage just don't need anymore. I do have a 12" wide log of white painters paper, maybe I could try that just to see if it works; but I'm used to using the microfiber towels now. Several years ago I had a Safelite windshield replaced and the guy left me a can of their cleaner, and as EmTee noted it does an excellent cleaning job on glass.
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Larry, back in the early 80's I worked in a body shop for a while and we did use a foam cleaner, maybe Sprayway, and used newspaper to wipe down the glass, and it worked great. It's difficult now to find newspaper so that's a reason for using microfiber towels and the "waffle" towel (for glass) available from the Auto Detail Supplier. Years ago most of us probably used an old t-shirt to clean windows and to buff the wax off the car, try finding a t-shirt made of 100% cotton, now they are mostly polyester and may have "flex" fabric in them, so microfiber towels are a good tool for cleaning and buffing.
Collector-car market continues fall from 2021 heights (Don't kill the messenger if you disagree)
in General Discussion
Posted
I attended the Raleigh (NC) Classic Auction in early June, not a big time auction but has been going on for many years. A lot of the cars are from dealer collections from the Raleigh area and other cities in the nearby area, and some from Southern Virginia, and there were some single car owners and such included in the auction. There might have been 250 cars in the three day auction, practically every car had a reserve set. Sitting with a friend watching this we found that many of the bids were getting to about 60-70% of the reserve, so many cars did not sell; seems like potential buyers are not quite ready to pay what sellers wanted. Okay, don't shoot the messenger, just an observation at this auction.