cquisuila
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Posts posted by cquisuila
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41 minutes ago, gungeey said:
Here's a corresponding head. The big hole is coolant. Small hole is oil feed for rocker. The dowels only let the gasket go on one way.
so simply 2 coolant hole to head cylinder !
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i have opened the 2 drain plugs < finished job
but always
my engine is overheating unfortunately🙄
i desesperate....
and I would like to know if it is simply my radiator which not efficient....
thank you everybody for your precedent advise !!!
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29 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:
The drain plugs on the side of the block are just for that, draining coolant, yet there can still be some residual coolant in the rear corners of the water jacket as the engines are usually tilted rearward when they are in the vehicle. While they can "flow clean", there can still be residual sediment in those rear areas of the water jackets. Which means that the only way to get that out is to remove the core plugs on the side of the block and flush things out completely. A messy job for sure, but that's the only real way (on an older engine) that you can get things as clean as possible. Just have new brass plugs to replace them.
IF you used a chemical flush product, it will remove rust and scale (to varying degrees). On an engine block, no big deal. On those core plugs and heater core, where the rust and scale accumulate, that accumulation can degrade the core surface and eat into it. Removing that scale with chemicals also means that thinner metal results, as the rust will seal those areas until it is removed or eats through them. A coolant-water mixture will find those weak areas quicker than plain water will, by observation. So, best to get ahead of the situation by removing those side plugs and washing everything out, if possible. If they have been changed, it will be obvious by their color.
Usually, the radiator will hold about 1/2 the volume of the total cooling system. draining, flushing, and refilling with about 2 gallons of coolant (NOT 50-50 coolant, but non-diluted) will can usually result in coolant protection to -20 degrees F and possibly -34 degrees F.
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the "COLD" level on a cross-flow radiator, which makes it look pretty empty. As the engine temperature increases, the coolant level will rise as the heated coolant expands, such that when at or near operating temperature, the coolant level should be just below the filler neck on the radiator tank. Any more will be pushed out of the overflow pipe.
Yes, when the coolant temp is at operating temperature, it will be pressurized to about 16psi, which makes the radiator hoses "hard" to the touch. This is normal.
The infra-red "heat guns" are available in the US at discount places as "Harbor Freight". There are two heat ranges, 500 degrees F and 1000 degrees F. All have switches to read Centigrade, too. Usually in the $35.00 USD range. Possibly some places like that in Europe?
You can use these "point and shoot" temperature readers for many vehicle diagnostic things. You can check the temperatures of the side of the engine block for temperature variations, plus the thermostat area to see when the thermostat opens, checking various parts of the radiator core for temperature variations, plus many other things. A good diagnostic investment. Can also be used around the house to look for heat escaping around windows in the winter, too.
In automotive diagnostics, the main thing you are looking for is unusual temperature variations, not only for specific temperatures. For example, an over-heat issue can be because the bottom half of a cross-flow radiator can be clogged with sediment, although it looks normal looking down the filler neck opening. The bottom part of the radiator core will be cold, as the upper section is hot, yet it is the bottom section air flow which the fan clutch "sees", which governs when the fan clutch works or does not work, so engine temp soars above 3/4 gauge as a result.
On the side of the engine block, the parts with good coolant flow will approximate coolant temperature as those parts with lessened flow will be a good bit hotter in comparison.
ONE word of caution . . . do NOT open the radiator cap on an engine where the radiator hoses are "hard", meaning the system is pressurized. ONLY do that after the engine is cooled and the hoses can be easily compressed (as in "no pressure).
Take care,
NTX5467
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2 hours ago, telriv said:
Coolant ONLY passes through the rear hole in the block.
In other words coolant travels through the engine then rises up to enter the cylinder head & continue flowing to the front of the head.
ALL those extra holes are to get rid of the sanding castings
They have NOTHING to do with the actual flow.
Understand???
Tom T.
SORRY good explication but what do these holes correspond to in correlation with the cylinder head gasket ?
I'm sorry to be worthless (and I no longer have vision when I disassembled!)
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Organic D type or mineral coolant C Type do you put in your engine?
NOTICE > specification for the riviera : GM1899M or GM1894M
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i moved my problem of engine overheat on a specific tuto!
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8 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:
It is quite unusual to have the engine overheat so badly just idling and sitting in the driveway, not out on the road driving.
I suspect something (an animal nest?) has plugged up the engine cooling passages or the radiator or both.
Try flushing the engine with a hose by pushing water in the upper engine hose (no thermostat) and let it run out the bottom hose (disconnected from radiator). Flush radiator from bottom inlet to upper end (opposite of normal engine running coolant flow direction).
YES GOOD IDEA
Already i have flushed the circuit and I also removed the 2 drainage plugs on the engine
but i will start again
it is strange for the radiator ; i clearly saw the flow that circulates but not perhaps by all flows ...
it is evident if i change the radiator i will know if it is the only problem on overheat but this has a cost, especially if my radiator has nothing🙄
🥵i hope that i I'm not going to have to reopen the cylinder heads....
> HERE the picture of my heads cylinders side passenger right (when I removed the cylinder heads almost 2 years ago...)
> the centervilleautorepair.com advertise that "using F-E-L-P-R-O head gaskets that always cause oil leaks where oil goes from the block into the head, oil leaks out between the layers of gasket."
i BOUGHT this parts WHEN i restored....🤒
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:
When you installed the new head gaskets did you make sure they went in correctly. They are marked for correct installation. Each gasket should have indicators written on it. RIGHT or LEFT. TOP. FRONT. If you did not notice these, you may have installed them incorrectly and you are blocking some water passages.
Also, make sure that your air:fuel ratio is not too lean. A lean mixture will cause your engine to run hot.
right passager
left driver
i notice a "glouglou" when i engage the heater
perhaps the other problem ?
and i put a water valve as picture :
perhaps a problem??
I will retry it
- otherwise I looked at the oil by unscrewing pan oil < normal oil
- i also looked the water in the radiator< it is very clean
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2 minutes ago, EmTee said:
OK, that sounds like a problem. Have you checked the dwell and ignition timing?
no
the engine well starts
and the phenomenon occurs in a non-running vehicle with just the engine running
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Unfortunately, it is too hot , no need for a thermometer 🥵
it is really over temperature
On board the temperature gauge indicates this when arriving at H, so much so that it has simply stopped !!
and the cover radiator is impossible to touch !!
and this is the first time that it has overflowed to this level of overflow when i stopped the engine !
and i hear a bubbling from the engine long after the engine is turned off !
if I unscrew the top hose a little (radiator to thermostat) > PSCHITTTTTTTTTTT SO a lot of pressure
> It's a real shame because I've made good progress on the rest of the vehicle (brakes, interior, electricity, etc.)
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INFORMATION : I don't have any white smoke coming out of the exhaust
-------> Otherwise, is it common for the cylinder heads to deform on this type of engine 425 ?
and i will test :
engine off
>small draining of oil pan to see -->oil quality (thanks emtee)
I verified : no problem
> sparks analyse
engine on
>radiator cap opened
1>I was told to put a condom at the radiator outlet instead of the cap; if it swells it's the cylinder head or its gasket!
2>--->see circulation in radiator---> see bubbles in radiator
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9 minutes ago, EmTee said:
After the engine cools, drain a small amount of oil from the pan and check for any sign of coolant in the oil. A leakdown test will identify a failed head gasket or other cylinder leak into the water jacket. If you know someone with an exhaust gas analyzer they can 'sniff' the coolant at the radiator cap to check for exhaust gas in the coolant.
yes i will drain a small
no i don't know anyone to analyser gas
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29 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:
is the engine getting so hot just sitting there in your driveway, not out driving on the road?
in the work you did, did you put on new head gaskets?
yes hot just sitting
driving on the road < no testing sorry
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15 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:
Did you replace that o-ring at the place where you first saw the leak?
is the engine getting so hot just sitting there in your driveway, not out driving on the road?
in the work you did, did you put on new head gaskets?
YES for the o ring
when i have opened the top of engine before the Buick restarted last year
and i put new head gaskets
recently changed parts :
-the climate evaporator
-add water valve on the water manifold for climate
I don't know if the engine was heating up before this change.
test : I will remove the thermostat from the circuit, this way the water will circulate everywhere and see if it continues to heat up
but i think that i have already done this test
> how to be sure that it is not the cylinder head or its gasket ?
> HERE I was told to put a condom at the radiator outlet instead of the cap; if it swells it's the cylinder head or its gasket!
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ALL <<< thank you for your support and your help ❤️
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I suspect more and more deformed cylinder head !!!!
If it is exact it's another story in terms of price!!!!
I'm really on the verge of abandoning the renovation and sacrificing the car 😪
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10 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:
Do you have a way of reading the true temperature of the engine/radiator when it does this?
Ray
no sorry
but it is very hot because the radiator cover is hot !!!
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11 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:
First, with a new thermostat, you must confirm that it is installed in the correct position. The small brass cylinder must face "down" toward the hot water coming out of the engine. In the drawing below, the brass cylinder looks like it has a coiled spring around it. Your thermostat may not. The brass cylinder must feel the hot water to open the thermostat.
Leaking at the hose coming out of the filler cap is just because the engine is overheating. Once you fix that, the water from the cap will also be fixed. The water level in the radiator sould be 3 cm below the filler opening. Coolant above this level will get pushed out of the cap and out through the small hose.
in this way
i tested the thermostat in saucepan filled with water and it opens when hot water
and the first leak (before huge overflow by radiator cap ) is shown on the picture
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11 hours ago, EmTee said:
Your car is a 1967 model with the 430 cubic inch engine, correct? Where is the leak - at the thermostat housing? Was the radiator flow tested?
thanks
no this is a 425
I have tested the flow in the radiator many times and it circulates
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Bad news for me : my engine
It is overheating !
It is starting leaks on the water manifold and after through the hose of radiateur cap !
I am very sad
All is new : water pump, thermostat, fluid....
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:
The ZDDP is not necessary if you use the correct oil in the first place. Any oil that has at least 1,000 ppm (parts per million) of zinc and phosphate will give you enough protection.
Very good information
Thanks !!!
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13 minutes ago, RivNut said:
This will not happen in a Buick. The nickel content in the iron is high enough to prevent any kind of valve recession. DO NOT allow anyone to convince you that a nailhead needs hardened seats. Chances are excellent the machinist will get into the water jacket and totally ruin the head. What are the chances of finding another good head in France? Read Russ Martin's Dos a d Donts for working on nailheads. That and Felpro gaskets are his two biggest no-nos.
It is a good news !! So the unleaded petrol AS SP98 in France can be used without additif ?
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Read in France for recession of valve seats :🗯️
"The experience of some always benefits others, it is good to remember that the Americans stopped all trade in leaded gasoline in the 1970s, imitated immediately by the Japanese.
Did they experience an epidemic of recession of valve seats ? No, and all the surveys carried out since then show that there were no more mechanical incidents after the switch to lead-free than before. And they specify that valve seat recession has always existed, that cast iron cylinder heads without added seats are, as before, the most exposed to this “natural” phenomenon, that aluminum cylinder heads with added seats are less sensitive to it, like before.
Most “serious” professionals have since come around to this opinion and no longer recommend the systematic replacement of valve seats with “reinforced steel valve seats”.
The latter obviously do not exist, even if we can, by playing with words, say that indeed the material used today is undoubtedly of better quality than 30 years ago...
CONCLUSION
We recommend to check valve clearance regularly (every 5000 km) and if you notice that your clearance is regularly decreasing, change them. Before, it's useless. That said, if you have a car with a cast iron cylinder head in which the valve seats are not attached, and if you do more than 10,000 km per year, you will have every interest in having steel seats inserted.
You will make your vehicle last longer. cylinder head longer. But this is not new, it is an operation which has always been practiced by rectifiers..."
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AND for LEAD additive ?
I have the impression that this is not useful if you don't drive the car much and the risk of deterioration of the valve seats is very limited. 🙄
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My engine is overheating
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
- OK thanks
I will drill a little hole in the flange of thermostat
I park with the front car elevated, radiator cap loosen (i already made this job but not car elevated...)