Crazyred
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Posts posted by Crazyred
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Ply33 thanks again for all the information! I'll make sure to keep the dot 3 away from the paint.
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That's really creative, thanks for the detail! A couple of months ago i gave away an extra spray bottle like that. Would have been perfect for this.
On the fluid, not knowing what's in the system, is it best to flush with dot 3? Also, i have a felpro gasket kit 3060 with a few types of material. What gasket material works best for brake fluid?
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Thanks for the reply. I was thinking that may be the case for this gasket. I guess there's a first time for everything. Thanks for linking to the hole punch set, that's right in my price range.
I agree on tracing a template and not having to hammer on parts, yikes! The lid bolts thankfully have the copper washers that are in great shape, so I can reuse them.
Your comment about a homemade pressure bleeder intrigued me, would you care to share any details about it?
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So I'm working on the '33 PD brakes since the pedal had no pressure. I opened the reservoir up to find that it was completely empty. So now I'm replacing hoses and checking for leaks. The gasket under the reservoir lid seems to be made from paper. It's extremely brittle and looking for a cork or rubber material replacement. I have had no luck in finding just a gasket, as it seems I can only locate the entire cylinder or the rebuild kit with no gasket.
Does anyone know where I could find just the reservoir lid gasket?
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ArticiferTom, I am not sure if the system is pressurized or not and yes the tube is right below the cap seal. As for the boiling, I do not think that is the case as the temp was below 150. Now I am thinking it might have been overfilled based on what you mentioned.
Thanks for the insight!
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Zeke, that's what it appears to be on the inside of the screen. The picture above is mine off the car.
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Thanks to you both for the replies. I wanted to make sure that I did not ruin the filter by using the incorrect method.
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So I was reading the operators manual to find instructions to clean the air filter and it states,
place the filter in gasoline and soak, then clean and dry and place in heavy oil and reinstall, or that's the jest of it.
The air filter pictured is what's on the car, do these instructions apply to this filter? If so, is there a better way now to clean it that will not harm the mesh?
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On my '33 PD the radiator cap insides do not look like it's making a seal. Has anyone repaired / rebuilt these gaskets or other pieces?
Also, once I was able to get the engine started and the coolant heated up, water began to come out of what I guess is the overflow tube going down the left side of the radiator. Would a bad cap cause this or something else?
Any info is appreciated!
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Thanks, I'll keep up the search.
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Ply33, I guess if it will fit in the dash and I can mount it securely, is all I'm looking for. I am hoping to find a quality one that will last but affordable.
I believe my door lock is frozen as neither key I have will turn it even after soaking with some pb blaster. So if I have a different blank or style keys, I am ok with that. I haven't attempted to disassemble the door lock as that's further down my list. Are there any write ups on that?
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Looking for feedback on a ignition replacement. The one in the car has 2 positions, off and on. The on position is wired only to the coil and fuel gauge. The current ignition has the shielded coil wire that is bare at the metal casing and the key is not needed and the ignition can be turned using any flat object that will fit. Looking for a quality replacement and a reasonable price.
Any suggestions?
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Thanks TomP. I was able to order a tank from the same manufacture.
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Ply33, that did it! Range is now 6-120. Tested on the car and it's showing the full range from empty to full. Thanks for your help on this!
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Ply33, i just received my sender today and the ohm readings are 6-92. I wanted to modify the card as you did to get the gauge closer to accurate.
So should i be removing the blackish material within the red circle area in my picture?
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Ken, beautiful cars!
Thanks for the feedback and I did end up buying a tanks, inc tank and sender. I had the same thought to get it on the road and figure out the original one at a later time.
I hope to receive this week, the carb and fuel pump rebuild kits from Hal Houghton and the tank and sender. Once these are completed, on to the brake inspection. Hoping to have better luck with them.
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This is a picture of the tank. You can see the crushed bottom in the picture.
Is it an original?
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Ok, this weekend has been trying between the fuel sender and fuel tank. I was hoping to keep what appears to be the original tank after cleaning it. I used the vinegar and salt formula. It cleaned the varnish and visible major rust. Once I started the rinsing, it continued to spit large flakes of rust. I rinsed and knocked for 3 hours with little improvement. I dried the tank and the rust flakes became worse. So I ended up rinsing the interior and exterior in oil to prevent further rusting.
I can get it cleaned for the same cost of a new tank but I'm not sure that the tank won't be too thin afterwards. It already has the bottom crushed when I bought it.
So I guess my question is to the ones that have replaced or seen replaced tanks. First how well does the fill tube look? The ones I've seen online look like rubber hoses. Also, who makes a good quality tank?
Any feedback is appreciated greatly! !
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Bloo, thanks for all the info. The two halves were riveted together and I just drilled the ends off to open. After closer inspection it appears the bottom half ground connection is corroded through. Thanks for pointing that out.
I will clean and retest to see if it improves. If not then I'll purchase a replacement.
Jpage, I'll give that site a look, thanks.
Ply33, thanks for the feedback. Also, you're site is a wealth of info, I have read many pages on it. The fuel sender write up is great and that maybe the route I'll have to choose.
Next step is finding a replacement fuel tank since the clean out did not go well.
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Ply33, thanks for the link. I actually read that earlier today. I read reviews on that unit and it has mixed reviews due to the float filing with fuel. Have you had any issues with that unit?
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Had to remove and begin cleaning the fuel tank. The fuel gauge was not working so after i dropped the tank i found the sender was not connected. I hooked up the sender and the fuel gauge was eradic when moving the sender arm. When i tried to test the ohms i could never get a constant reading in any position. So I figured it's broke and opened it up. Not sure if it's original or not. I would like to have a working fuel gauge semi accurate. Does anyone have any advice on whether this is repairable or just replace? If replacing what is the correct sender for this car?
Any help is appreciated!
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Here are a couple. Happy viewing!
Found the correct distributor parts and the engine is running now. Currently, cleaning the tank and looking for the correct replacement fuel sender.
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Thanks to both of you for the info.
Old buick after more digging and looking at the id plate, the dist i believe is a autolite model igs 4003-1. Under the corrosion i can make out the igs. Now napa has the points and condensor but ordering cap and rotor. If they are incorrect, do you carry these parts?
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I just purchased a 1933 Plymouth PD last week. The car is great but sat for a few years and not running. I am giving it a major tune up and trying to identify the distributor in the car. It does not appear to be an original. The parts that NAPA had in stock for the original do not match what's in the car. Can anyone identify this distributor from the pics attached?
These are the numbers I can make out on the id plate:
4003 - 1 6 - P 042642Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!!
WTB 1933 Texas License Plate
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Looking for a decent Texas plate for the year 1933. I only need one for antique registration in Texas but will take two as well.
If anyone has some or knows of a good plate supplier please let me know. Thanks!