blind pew
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Posts posted by blind pew
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pics from the farm. I have all the plywood panels cut and the pieces of ash replaced that needed it. Have removed the rear axle, fenders, and hood as well as the seats. i have a new front clip, hood, and fenders that are at the painter and the seats are at the upholstery shop.
I finally decided upon a ford explorer rear end with 3.55 gear ratio, while keeping the old style leaf springs and knee shocks (replaced with new or refurbished). Will put a mustang II front end- just could not find all the replacement parts for the KB3 and want to drive it when I'm done.
Using marine varnish for the finish and sealer for the plywood edges. I'll keep the rear deck bare oak rather than replacing with battleship linoleum.
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It looks like a good project. I would buy it, but I can’t get the email to go through.
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Interesting '52 buick with most of the wood there.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/d/menlo-park-1952-buick-woody-estate/7277446711.html
Can't seem to be able to respond to the ad, though.
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Yep-
Probably too much work. I have a '49 Chrysler T&C convertible that would help with an approximation of the doors, but that would be it.
Mark Miller in CO has done quite a bit of work on T&C and apparently is thinking about making kits for the '49, as he does for the Chevy Country Club package. I may chat with him about it, as he has worked on several T&Cs. Of course, the '46-'48 is all wood on the doors and does not have the metal as was used on the'49.
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I saw that beat to hell '47 T&C sedan on ebay, which lacks the doors. It brings up the issue of where one would procure patterns for the doors (if possible). Any thoughts?
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Your car rocks. I as well did not know that the wood was structural. You certainly can shape wood and the work is beautiful. Great work and thanks for posting your images!
It's nice to see woodies are not that common like yours and Tom Boehm's LaSalle. I'll bet getting those patterns was a bitch.
Did you have to use a hand held router, rather than a table mounted bit, to do the work on those corner pieces? I'll bet those finger joints there took a few tries as well.
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54 minutes ago, Tom Boehm said:
Can you post a picture of the rear window set up on your 1941 International ? Do you know what the original looks like? My Lasalle uses the kind like New Old Wood posted above. The 1949 Ford Station Wagon has a metal strip between panes in the back with a lock. Can you use that?
The International is back at my farm (about 300 miles away). Ill be there in two weeks to work on it.
However- yes- what is on the '49 wagon is the piece I'm talking about. That's a great place to start looking, as those are readily available. The ones on my international have been shot out, so it's hard to tell what was there originally.
Thanks for the '49 Ford tip- that just may work!!!
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No- It's not the rubber for the window channels.
It's the vertical metal chrome part that is akin to the piece that separates the vent window from the front rolling window. These parts do not extend that far below the window, like those separating the front windows from the vent windows.
For the front, I was able to modify some '49 ford parts to work on the '41 international. However, I can't seem to find a comparable part for the rear sliding windows.
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Does anyone know a source for the vertical window channel dividers for the rear sliding windows?
Thanks!
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On 1/28/2021 at 2:55 PM, Bill Patton said:
Restoring my 57 Country Squire. Previously poorly "restored" so I have no basis for my questions.
I believe the window surrounds were originally painted tan or wood grain painted in tan color? Inside AND outside?
I'll use dinoc for the side and tailgate insert panels, with striped lines or wood grain?
Also unsure about the faux "wood" trim. Were they painted wood grain? Or simply painted a tan color?
Thanks for any help.l
Billpatton@aol.com
Cool car-
I had thought about getting one of those and using real ash trim instead of the faux wood. That would look cool. Nonetheless, very cool car.
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I agree-
It was a dumb idea, but I am a specialist in dumb ideas.
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Good points and thanks for the advice.
Just a thought...………………………………… which can sometimes be dangerous.
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Finding the appropriate cobra pattern vinyl for the Woodie tops seems to be an ongoing problem with LeBonney Baron going bust. I have read that some members have used a central seam with two pieces of material or have simply used convertible top material.
Being a fan of old movies, there are these infomercials about "Flex-steel", with the goofy guy who patches everything with the stuff and makes a rubber boat using it. I was thinking with my pea brain that perhaps one could use convertible top material and then spray on several coats of that crap, essentially providing a rubberized surface to canvas or convertible top material to achieve the rubberized surface we are looking for. Of course, the spraying would have to occur on the canvas prior to application.
Any thoughts? I am a while away from applying top material, as I as still replacing plywood and redoing everything from a mechanical standpoint. I am a doc and have only 3-4 days every other month to work on the International, as it is at my farm, which is 400 miles away. Nonetheless, one has to plan for such things.
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On 9/2/2020 at 4:38 PM, 28 Chrysler said:
K3 is a one ton chassis with hefty springs The K and KB series Internationals are narrow so modern front suspension will be wider.
I drove a 1949 KB2 it could do 55 but took a 1/4 mile to stop. I also drove a KB5 dump truck with 20" tires that could do over 65 MPH unloaded.
I guess I can put K2 hubs on the front and a K2 axle on the back and there is a disc brake conversion kit.
I am very fond of brakes.
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Thanks-
Yep- it is very primitive indeed, but kind of cool due to that.
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Wow-
Do you know where I could get one of those?
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On most woodies I have encountered, "C" clips hold the interior door handles and window cranks in place.
On my '41 International with a Campbell body, I found there were no "C" clips. So I contacted Mark Miller, who is a well known maker of wooden bodies and particularly has made the Chevrolet Country Club wood kits, for help. Mark told me that there is a drift pin, found when the ferrul around the handles is depressed, that secures the handles. Pushed out the pin, and voila!
Just some information for others who encounter this. Also, a bit of a plug for Mark Miller in Colorado. He makes wonderful Chevrolet Country Club wood kits at a very good price that takes a regular 46-48 Chevrolet and makes it a work of art. In addition, Mark is getting ready to retire and will be returning to making and working on full wooden bodies on the other makers with an interest in making Chrysler Town and Country kits readily available!
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Thanks for the link!
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Thanks-
I tried the International dealers and they were not able to help.
However, on the "oldihc.org" site, a few guys gave me sources/contacts to be able to get the brakes redone by a shop and a few guys who had some K3 parts to sell. Looks like I will be able to use the K3 wheels, axles and brakes, which is a big plus. It would have been a shame to ditch the original stuff just due to lack of brake parts.
For those interested, the '46-'48 ford front drum shoes (12X 1 3/4) fit the K3. Also, post war Dodge Power Wagon drum shoes are 14" X 2", which fits the rear K3.
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Well...……………………….. it turns out that they cannot make custom kits for the K3 for disc brakes.
It creates somewhat of a problem that I see others have experienced with K1, K2, and K3 model internationals. The problem is lack of parts to maintain the existing drum brakes, yet no real solution for disc brakes. For those interested, THERE IS a conversion kit for front disc brakes for the K1 and K2, but not the K3. The K3 have those weird, big 6 bolt hubs and more robust axles.
It appears as though many K3 owners, faced with this, have changed the front and rear suspensions such that they have compatible hubs for disc brakes. The Ford 8.8 rear end from the explorer is a popular choice; it requires some removal and re-welding tube shock mounts. Most suggest using the Explorer drive shaft and having a machine shop use the Ford and International drive shafts to make one shaft that connects both to the international tranny/yoke and the Ford differential.
For the front, apparently "Fat Man" makes a kit for Mustang II suspensions for an international.
Anyone else have any thoughts? I am open to any suggestions, as I would maintain the drum brakes if I could find parts for them. Otherwise, the disc brake option (given the K3 hubs and axle) is not feasible for the K3 and requires changing the rear axle assembly and the front suspension. I guess if that is what has to be done, then so be it. However, it seems strange that there are no other options. I know the K3 is not very common, thus little demand for disc brake kits and drum brake replacement parts. No market- no parts.
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amazing work!
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Thanks Matt!
The price is not a big deal. I'm glad the custom work can be done. I've gotten a little spoiled by disc brakes and really think drums are a little dangerous in this day and age. Thanks for the suggestions! I have a note sent into Wilwood to ask them- hopefully they will be able to do it; if not, I'll get a hold of the other two.
I'm having general spring make the rear leaf springs, as I can't find any leaf springs made today with the same dimensions. Kind of weird- with a zillion types of leaf springs one would think that there would be a substitute out there with the same dimensions.
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For the ford, here is the direct category/product on that site:
https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/showproducts.php?c=1&s=58&g=493&t=6399
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Also, despite being Willy's, I like these better:
41 international K series
in National Woodie Club
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Thanks Tom-
It is far more crude than your beautiful LaSalle, but yes- the ash was amazing, which is why I bought it. I plan on yellow for the metal so that I can apply a magnetic "tiger hawk" to the front quarter panels and drive it to Iowa hawkeye football games. Yellow and black are Iowa (my alma mater, but living in exile in Mo) colors. I thought the whole thing would take five years, but it is going much faster than anticipated, particularly since I can only work on it every two months.
Yep- I'll stick with bare wood for the rear. I may put in an ash or hickory floor as well. I did that on another woodie using hardwood flooring and it looks pretty cool. The interior of the doors was kind of weird, in that there are "open" areas at the bottom of the door and not a continuous sheet of plywood (or masonite) going to the lower part of the door.
On the inner rear side panels, I'm going to make "prettier" ash trim with finger or box joints. The actual interior ash pieces were no more than sticks and looked like crap. Also, the interior panels were masonite. I'm doing solid mahogany and mahogany plywood instead, as it looks better.
The seats were this ugly green vinyl so I'm doing a nice coffee colored. I took the seats to one upholstery guy who said they were good for nothing but the dump. The second guy said they were in fantastic shape for their age and said it would be no problem at all!!!!