[1927-1930 Wooden Cargo Trailer]

Suggest you get in touch with WWI MUSEUM IN KANSAS CITY MO. IF ITS TOO NEW TRY THE WWII MUSEUM IN NEW ORLEANS, LA... 

[1950 buick auto transmission and torque tube specialist]

A friend of mine drilled a hole in the bottom of the outside tube close to the rear differential tapped threads for a 90 degree barbed fitting. He installed a length of clear tube and ran it vertically with a vent fitting at the top. Check for fluid leaking by shining a flashlight on the clear tube, red=dyna fluid, other= diff fluid. Check amount of leakage by tipping tube down to drain into container. Seasonal leakage easily seen to be monitered, emptied and dealt with!

[Cast iron welding]

The last nos exhaust center section I personally witnessed selling a couple months ago went for $900.oo, so I will attempt to repair one. Its hard to refute video recorded success. If the metallurgy is disturbed, but the ultimate useability of the part is acheived, then I guess Id take that over ending up with the part scrapped. The potential failure of the part does not constitute a danger of a safety issue, merely an annoying noise from the exhaust leaking. If science indicates a reason why I shouldnt try, especially from a safety standpoint, that info would of course be appreciated!

[Derusting parts]

Breaking Bad=acid, big 55 gal plastic drum. What could go wrong?

[Tire tools]

Im guessing the wrench with the circular top is correct for 1941, but will have to do more checking. Also part of the fun! No more guessing. This photo of 4,600 mile original, (not a typo),clearly shows wrench in ? So, '39-'40 at least, maybe more, for one of them and 1941 for wrench with 'loop' at top. 

[Tire tools]

Thanx John

          I just get a bit of a kik outta having correct small stuff like this when I can find and ID them correctly. You might even have been a past owner given that I bought them from a mutual acquaintance yesterday.

[Tire tools]

Like Frank used to say on that old tv show "just the facts mam" I think one of these is 1940 Buick, maybe 1940 GM? The one with the round loop on top I think is a little older? Anyone researched these and know, " just the facts"? Thanx in advance for definitive ID! Want a complete tire & jack tool set for my trunk display 1940 56C.

[Derusting parts]

The two parts being riveted together was a main reason why I decided to use this process and the fact that I lost patience grinding away on it. Ive wanted to try this process for a while now. Seemed to be to good to be true! Not! Already took a bunch of thick hardened coating off. Details to follow.

[52 Bu 4brl]

Had to dig this stuff out cuz someone was makin "I hafta have that noises!" Yes, for you sharp-eyed folks thats a two brl heat riser with flapper adapted to fit 4brl. Like most, its not an original creation. I copied the plan from my friend Scott, who did it to his 48 Roadee. Oops, bet thiss'll go to non-original area. Sorry, I fergot again,dang! Well, hope someone gets a little kik out of it! Sure cheaper and easier than tryin 2 find correct, almost always spider web cracked original! Decided to show a couple "well designed" originals. Lucky to have them with all the "puzzle" pieces! Now waiting on EZ weld tig wire ordered on Evilbay. Saw Jay Leno You Tube video with weld.com Tig man tig welding a cast iron base to an antique water heater cold(no pre or post heat!) Has 2B true, cuz it was on the internet, right? We will see! Details to follow! Tune in again for the exciting? Conclusion!

 

[Cast iron welding]

Ive decide to buy a few of those special Weldeasy rods. There are so many different  tig welder mfg companies out there now its difficult to hone down to one you can trust to buy. Im seeing tig machines from a couple hundred to five thousand. More you tube research. A dream would be to buy USA made.....

[Cast iron welding]

Looked at a video posted by Jay Leno showing "Mr Tig" tig welding a cast iron  base for an antique water heater with an "Easyweld" rod engineered for no preheat when used with a tig welder. Anyone used this method? Results? Thanx in advance for any, good or unsuccessful! 1952 Buick Roadmasters have an exhaust center section that usually resembles the "after" photo of Humptee Dumptee's fall! Lost causes a specialty! 

[Headliner bows for a 1957 oldsmobile wagon]

Greetings

        When I saw the chrome headliner trim on the 55 Chev belaire 2dr hts, I wanted those in my 55 Bu Cent 2dr ht. It took some research, but I found Hollanders Interchange manual,(Mpls Co.), stating Olds of the same years('54,'55,'56) and the Buick Specials& Centuries had roofs that interchanged! From that I figured the chrome headliner trim would fit, which 98 & Super 88 2dr ht Olds had. Bingo! Chev is too narrow & Cadd too wide said Goldie locks! Alternatively, you could have someone cut metal trim from a wider/narrower car& mig/tig back together at proper length and rechromed. Took my side garnish to stainless polisher who had tri-5 Chev side stainless in stock. When I laid that trim on top of mine it was Identical, polished stainless purchased, which means side trim can now be polished again if needed, no expensive chroming! Chev Nomad trim is reproduced and could be resized for your Olds, maybe? Outside the box these daze are where a lot of alternatives can be acheived! Good luck!

[Derusting parts]

9 hours ago, 37_Roadmaster_C said:

I will jump in here with a few points...  This is an excellent way to derust parts. This method is well discussed in various places on the internet. My first are a couple of safety points. Only do this in a well ventilated area! The bubbles that form during the process are hydrogen gas and are flammable. Outside is best, but an open garage/shop door works. Next for safety is to avoid any stainless steel in this process. Some grades of stainless steel contain the metal chromium, and during electrolysis chromium compounds may be released into the solution. Chromium compounds are extremely poisonous and should be avoided at all costs!!

Now for simple things...  You can also use baking soda to make the solution. It is not as good, but almost everyone has some on hand to try. Next is the dc power for the process. If you keep the current low the process will not build as much residue to clean off. The drawback is it takes longer to defust. You can adjust the current by using a smaller anode piece, lowering the concentration of the solution or lowering the voltage if you have a variable power supply or a combination of these.

One last very good thing about this method is that is does absolutely NO damage to the part you are cleaning. It does not attack the base metal at all. You can leave the part in the solution with the power on for as long as the part is covered with the solution and it will do no harm!

Thanx for adding that valuble safety info! The caveat about stainless and chromium is new to me and valuble to anyone using this process! My setup is outside garage and I dont smoke, so fire danger from the escaping gas is minimized! Too bad Im not equipped to capture and fuel a vehicle when Im essentially running a hydrogen generator!

[1948 Buick Super Original Straight 8 Oil Pan Bolts]

Yeah,  but if you send me a private message I bet you get your wish!

[Derusting parts]

Oh yeah, forgot, box of A&H was 2.88 at grocery store! I know, I know, that just knocked it right out of most folks budget,DANG! Add 1-1/4 cup to the 20+gals of water(no, it doesnt help you remember to post things initially). Just a few hours in & looks like swamp on top of solution! Rust never sleeps, but electrolysis doesnt either, yay!

[Derusting parts]

Tired of grinding away on the front bumper brackets for my '39 Spec, I decided to test what I saw on my favorite post secondary education site, you tube. Electrolysis! I really like the KISS principal! Keep it simple _____me! Here are some pix of the setup. Working operating an electrical powerplant prior to retiring, I had a forced education for a few years. Fact #1, pure water wont conduct electricity! Important to make a huge boiler & pipes last. When you do electrolysis you need to make the water "dirty", Arm & Hammer  super washing soda, laundry booster crystals enhances conductivity in the water.  Next hook a battery charger posite cable to a 'stick' of ferrous(steel) metal in one side of a plastic(non-conductive) container with water & correct measure of a&h soda. Place part in liquid, not touching piece with positive wire and hook negative wire to cleaned spot(conductive) on part to be derusted. Turn on charger and wait(HARD PART!) PIX SHOW EXTREMELY COMPLEX HOOK-UP! matter of perspective, mine,duh. Hee hee. Should tried this long ago! Part of what the ol' man said, "work smarter, not harder!" Wad dat dummy mean anyway? Details to follow. Bumper brkt in photo now in solution, see orange  rust ring at edge of solution coming off brkt.

[For Sale: 1939 Cadillac Series 61 two door coupe - $32,000 - Lagrangeville. NY - Not Mine - Still available, same price, July 2021:]

4 hours ago, B Jake Moran said:

I appreciate the back story. 

 

The car is nice but not $32k nice. It's like sellers are shooting for the moon.  I can't afford a $32,000 car.  Who has that kind of walking around money except retirees?  And for $32,000 most, not all, of them are buying faster power assisted cars.  Just can't remember when the hobby got to b this point. 

Again&again&again

[Broken studs]

On 6/21/2021 at 4:16 AM, Bush Mechanic said:

The pilot hole trick is certainly the way to go. Sometimes you get lucky, and are able to get the job onto the milling machine. Then you can end-mill a flat onto an angled break to aid in centring the pilot drill. Especially useful when the stud is below the surface. Some end-mills will leave a dimple, but this can be punched down before introducing the centre-punch. I'm not averse to trying a round or oval burr for a starting cut in the mill, either. Easy-outs can work on finger-tight studs. Which are a rare species, as seizure is the usual cause of breakages..

 

The stud removers/installers shown by 2carb40 above are a very useful tool, despite their tendency to leave three indents if contacting the actual thread. Far more elegant than two nuts locked together. They are not designed for broken studs, though.

Just to clarify. The remover I showed is good to take anything out as long as something is sticking out far enuff for it to grab it sufficiently, stud or bolt with head snapped off. I heated broken exhaust bolts to cherry red and vise grips just smeared around shank. Thought Id try the remover. Put the 1/2"-3/8" adaptor on my Snap-on 1/2" breaker bar and turned those rusty, baked in stubs out. Nailhead and str8 engine cover studs have come out with no marks on studs. Im sure with more stubborn items the tendancy to mark is more prevelent, but I like to be clear in my description so I dont discourage folks from trying, as specially with as many issues this has resolved without damage for the relatively low price! Just an additional note. This tool is open on the end, so can be put over the end of a long fastener and used with a box end wrench to grab right at the base of fastener.

[Broken studs]

Battn' a 1,000 with this new baby! Wow! Cant say enuff good! Buy it, try it. It works! See it on you tube- project farm

[1952 Pulled out of the barn]

On 6/14/2021 at 10:06 AM, Eric H1952 said:

Hi,  I’m Eric and this is my Father-in-Laws 1952 Buick Special.  He has Alzheimer’s and is unable to drive or answer questions.  But he loves this car and we’re hoping to get it running so we can give him a few more rides.  We are west of St. Cloud Minnesota.  It ran when parked about 5-6 years ago.  We got it to turnover last year but no fire even with starting fluid.  I’m getting a new battery soon and am going to see if we have spark.  I may be looking for a enthusiast or shop in Minnesota.

 

We can not find the keys.  My brother-in-law knows we can run it without the key.  However the trunk is locked and I’m looking for advice on getting into it without ruining the lock as we have hope of finding the key. (Maybe in the Trunk). Any thoughts?  It doesn’t look like getting in behind the back seat would be possible.

TIA,

Eric

I went to get keys made and they said GM didnt have that many variations would I like to sit down and see if I could fit one from the three rings of gm keys they had. About 20 mins later, I had keys they could make copies directly from various ones they already had for just such an occasion! 3.00 each thanx! Put your lock numbers away! Good luck!

[55 Buick Special Front Brakes]

Drums available, but would need to check with brake mic to confirm servicable. Send a Private message if you need them. In MN just so you know for gauging shpg.

[1950 buick original engine and underhood colors]

You may want to check into "dry ice blasting" its the one method that Ive researched that seems effective for removal of undercoating. Interesting process.

[Buick super 1949 dynaflow rear axle on 1940]

On 6/8/2021 at 1:22 AM, Robby120113 said:

Do you think the 248ci engine is still able to drive normally with this gear?

thanks

Hey Robby

         Please google TEAM BUICK forum! I think you will love the older Buick info thats been posted there. Be prepared for "binge watching" as its alot. You would be prudent to buy a publication from the West Michigan chapter  "Tips and Techniques"? A young guy will know how to search for it! 19.95 last I checked. Whats that old saying about teaching fishing? Eat happy!

[1950 buick original engine and underhood colors]

I think my friend got pretty close when doing his 50 Super. Ignore the power steering(prototype!). Chassis black is more correct, but my gloss black parts start looking satin fairly quickly after some use. ☔❄️⛄🏭⏳

[Buick super 1949 dynaflow rear axle on 1940]

On 6/10/2021 at 11:53 AM, Robby120113 said:

So the 3.4 doenst fit a special. But the 3.36 does or is it the same thing?

If I had a dollar.......The question asked was where to find. This time two ?s. First ?,yes, 3.4 fits Spec. No, they are not the same, but yes they can interchange. It was an upgrade, a running change during production that had to retro fit to continue to be a replacement part. See 1955 Service bulletin book, they are inexpensive, online and reproduced. Blood Sweat and Tears cover of the song," God Bless The Child Thats Got His Own!" That's a great one to own too! Alexa, play BS&T. Just pushing your leg! Keep askin ?s I can do this all day! Lol!