Skidplate
-
Posts
104 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Skidplate
-
-
Not running ethanol so that isn't it. Actually read about the foot pedal technique but kinda forgot it. I'll try to remember but I REALLY have my doubts. Positive... Think Positive. 😣numi numi numi.
-
Ok, so I'm sure I'm being a little judgy here but there really is no such thing as Mechanically Inclined. It's really more of a Desire To Learn and being OK with doing it wrong a couple of times before we get it right. Â It's amazing how many people I've known who will never do things on their own because there was that ONE TIME that they tried and failed to fix something and then never tried again. Ask anyone here and they'll tell you, the only thing that makes someone Mechanically Inclined is accepting that we all do things wrong to some extent the first or second time we attempt it. we're just too stubborn to give up and are willing to keep doing it again until we get it right. Now to be fair, there's also this other thing. Most of us here figure that if someone is going to do something wrong on our toys, it might as well be us. And also, if you want something done right (and I mean Really Right) as in "while you have it apart you clean and fix everything you can find to your best ability" YOU are going to have to do it. Your mechanic doesn't get paid to do all the extra stuff that you would do on your own toy. He can't. He would go broke spending his time to make your old POS Really Right the way it should be. He isn't going to replace those nasty ass old bolts that should have been changed out years ago. He isn't going to clean all that crap that's been lodged in some corner that will eventually start rusting out. All the things a supposedly Mechanically Inclined person would learn to do over the many years of Doing Stuff on Their Old Car instead of handing it off to "Their Mechanic". We all started somewhere and as difficult as it may seem right now... You can too. Cheers
-
1
-
-
Hey all. Just completed the Dual Carb setup and fixed a lot of the issues recommended by all those who piped in to assist... thanks to everyone who helped. So now for the tweaking of the minor issues.
A few things: a number of people have confirmed that they too have Hot Start issues. Starts fine cold but you have to choke it and hold it to the floor and any other list of combinations when it's hot. And when it does start, I have to basically blow everything out for a few seconds to get it smooth again. Â If there were any really common solutions, I didn't see them posted. For the sake of Full Disclosure, I'm still running the original plugs that came in it and they are not a number that I recognize. I only know that they are a HOT config so I'm going to try something a little colder and see if that helps.
That's the first continuing problem. The second one is for some reason it will come to an idle just fine when I'm stopping straight but tends to want to die when I am slowing down and turning. And I even suspect it's more prevalent when turning right than left. Is that weird or what? Installed an electric fuel pump so not likely starving for fuel and even if it was, the carb bowl has more than enough to supply a second or two on its own. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers -
Ok, so when it was all said and done, and I do hope it's done, the list of things corrected to get it all right is as follows. Added the heat risers under the carbs and then corrected the carb tilt by machining the risers about 1-2 deg (guessing). Made the heat shield plates (aluminum) to not only reduce the heat coming off the exhaust but also to keep what fuel dripped from the carbs from landing on the exhaust. Replaced the existing mechanical fuel pump (never really surmised the fuel pressure it was actually putting out) with an electric pump (2-4psi) and mounted it at the output of the fuel tank on the crossmember just forward of the tank. Also added a 0-15 psi gauge (which was the lowest I could find) at my rear carb fuel line. It's not really very accurate since I'm only running 2-3 psi, but it's at least a reference. That  pump also specifically claims to not restrict fuel from flowing back to the tank after shutoff so will hopefully reduce the hot carb from dripping out the side on the exhaust and/or heat shield after shutoff. I kept having the rear carb blow fuel out of the plunger hole for no good reason (can you say Car Fire) but got it to quit after cleaning the float shutoff valve. Then it would come back after a few miles. I surmised that the float shutoff valve was in some way getting stuck open. The only thing I could figure was the really cool looking glass fuel filter that I had inline really didn't filter nearly what was necessary and was locking the tiny ass fuel shutoff valve open, so I installed a disposable filter above the glass filter (closer to the carb) to catch whatever was making the valve fail. I also adjusted the float down (bent the little tab while pushing down on the float) a little to get a little further away from that overflow threshold.  I haven't actually done more than a few laps around the block so I can't be sure that any of this has worked but I'm thinking really really positive. Oddly enough everything kinda sorta worked good before leveling the carbs (except for the leaking out the side issue of course). Leveling the carbs (which was necessary, I know) seemed to create "one step forward, five steps back". In the mean time, the high torque starter I ordered came in to replace the 6v grinder and I installed that. Say what you want but a modern starter rocks. Guess we'll see how everything else shakes out. Would really be nice to put some good clean miles on Balue by summer. But like they say, it's the final 10% of the build that's the hardest. Cheers
-
So I realized once I got them installed that they look a little stockcar-ie, but there you have it. Haven't started or drove it yet. The linkage is rubbing a little so I'll need to tweak a few things. But if the carbs stay cooler then progress was made. And now maybe when the fuel invariably drips, I won't freak out. Ok, I'll still freak out a little.
-
All great advice. I just put in an order for a case of Bayer. 🫤. So another piece of the puzzle, I'm at 5k-8k elevation (depending on where in the Rockies I'm driving) so the adjustable jets ARE (or at least might be) kinda useful. Also I do have O2 sensors on each of the two exhaust ports and a combined sensor further down the line. They do help a little but they certainly aren't the End All fix. The "two exhaust port" sensors feed a gauge under the hood and the "further down the line" sensor gauge is on my dash so I can get an Air/fuel feel while I'm driving. And they HAVE helped with tuning. Yeah, so for now I'll keep the carbs I have and continue taking drugs. I just finished cutting out the heat shield (.06 aluminum sheet") and should have that in place soon. I'll send pictures for your appropriate Laughing and Pointing. CheersÂ
-
1
-
1
-
-
The thing is, every old carb I've ever had was an absolute nightmare to even remotely get to operate correctly. 80 years of who knows what's been done to it or what's been backfired through it is never a good thing. So yeah, here I am with new crap as apposed to old. Â I've got a few more things to try but as it stands right now I'm really really not keen on throwing "good money after bad" as they say. I did get them leveled nicely and I'm working on a heat shield. " Patience Grasshopper". I just keep telling myself.
-
I'll post pics when I get the heat shield made and installed. Got the carbs leveled. Still tweaking the linkage. Maybe just get used to moisture (gas) around the underside. It didn't really run bad when it was tilted just really dripped. How do you say "today was just a bad day at the races"?
-
Oh no. I don't want to throw rocks at the carburetors. I want to throw the carburetors at the rocks. Thanks for the link. It was helpful but honestly I'm really getting the impression that Strombergs just may not be the quality they used to be. They might be pretty but they are the leakiest bas***ds I've ever seen. But I'll fight the battle a little longer but it's getting very old very fast. Sorry. I'm venting. But frustration is setting in. Thanks again for the input. It really IS appreciated. Oh, and they are 97's.
-
Ok so I machined the spacers/insulators and reinstalled. They actually bolted up fine. Got everything back together and test drove. I'm starting to believe that these NEW Strombergs are just flawed. Seems like if it's not one thing, it's another. Now the front isn't leaking but the rear is blowing fuel from around the throttle bump rod. I had to limp it home by removing the fuel line from the rear carb and crimping it shut with tie wraps. Got it home and pulled the rear apart and looked everything over. Nothing really obvious wrong. Thinking they're just really touchy. Put it back together and back on. Seems to be fine now but really getting a bad feeling about using them at all. Those Carters are starting to sound really good. And damn, those Strombergs were NOT cheap. I'll test drive again tomorrow and see how things go. The carbs are level now though. I guess that's something.
-
1
-
-
Hope not. We'll see. I kinda tilted the carb up to see how it layed. Again, we'll see. But isn't it the same deal as yours. They didn't repunch YOUR bolt holes did they? Or did you bend yours too?
-
So you got me to thinking (thank you for that) maybe there's something to the tilt thing. I've been seeing another problem with my front carb that I think all ties in together. After I've taken it down the road for another test and tweak drive, and I pull it back in the garage to look things over, on occasion I will hear this odd little sound about every two or three seconds apart. It's happened a couple times and I've found it to be the front carb with fuel dripping from what appears to be out of the engine side lower rod of the throttle assembly onto the hot exhaust. I know, right? It's got engine fire written all over it. So I pulled the carb to see if something could be able to leak from the fuel bowl out of that lower butterfly rod. There's nothing down there but the rod. So I got to thinking what you said about machining the tops of the intake to level the carbs. I poopooed machining the intake (sorry, you were right) but I realized I CAN machine the new insulators that I just installed under both carbs. Got my angle of slope and calculated what I needed to cut. Did I mention I have a 3axis mill? Just finished the front one and I'll try it on tomorrow. Oh, and as for the later version of intake that compensates for the engine slant... it should have occurred to me before because I have one of those exact engine/intake config engines setting here on a stand. It just never clicked.Â
-
1
-
-
Looking for a mostly original, pretty much unmolested car. I could be convinced if it can be returned to mostly factory original. Has to be No Rust and No Patches. Will consider something if it can be restored with modern aftermarket Sheetmetal. The frame needs to be clean and uncut or welded as does the main body. I can work with some interior issues just not gutted. fenders can be of lesser condition but nose needs to be pretty clean. Be prepared to send good pictures and I'll be prepared to pay cash and deal fairly. Text preferred to start. We can talk later 720-930-0600 Glen
-
They do indeed tilt forward. I thought this was a little odd too but who am I to argue with over 100 year old engineers. But to be honest though, Â I've never really had a good understanding of how fuel levels effect a carbs function anyway. Â One would think that as long as the fuel bowl stays filled enough to NOT starve the engine of gas then all should be good. I know this couldn't be true because so much emphasis is always put on fuel level measurements but there you have it. A little ignorance certainly goes a long way. So as it stands right now the car actually runs pretty well. My gas mileage sucks at around 11mpg but if the car wasn't heavy before, it certainly is now. Between the commercial grade tires (5) that were the only thing I could find in the correct size that wasn't lame no-traction show (not snow) tires, but are heavy as hell. Â And then there is the two really heavy but really comfortable heated and cooled bucket seats along with the 1/2" thick wool floor insulation. So given all that, and all the other small but compiling weight additions, Â I really can't complain MUCH about it's acceleration. It wants to stumble a little in low speed turns but so far I've gotten it up to 70mph on the interstate with seemingly more throttle to spare. Â At this point I'm just hoping there's some little something I've missed that others before me might know more about. And I actually DID consider doing something to correct the forward tilt of the carbs but nothing jumped out as a viable solution.
-
- 37 Opera Coupe. Been about a 5 year project. Finally up and running. Just now working out all the bugs. Got about 300 miles on it. Tuning the carbs and timing and linkage tweaking. The brakes are about right, finally. All the electrical has been redone. Split the 6 & 12 voltages so to keep all the gauges correct. All the lights are 12v. Soon to be the starter and ignition 12v also. A purist would cringe but this will be for driving and maybe a little rallying so I'm OK with upgrades. Say what you want but heated and cooled Lexus seats rock. And NO I haven't drilled many extra holes... none if I could help it.
Â
-
8
-
Ok so where is the Intake Weighted Flap? I'm assuming since the Choke Flap is at the top then the Weighted Flap is at the bottom?
-
Yeah Lawrence my Hot Starting is awful. Didn't think of heat flaps. But I spent so much time and effort getting those looking great and working properly. Go figure. Got the Strombergs because I didn't know what else would work. Carters DO seem a little better made. Maybe I'll try those next time. And I'm only choking the rear carb mainly because my existing choke cable is too short to reach the front carb. Poor excuse but there you have it.
-
Hey thanks "39". That site rocks. I haven't tried the adjustments yet but I have much more info now. We'll see how it all translates to Strombergs that aren't specific to this engine. Wish me luck.
-
I have a 1937 248 engine with the later 40-41? dual carb intake/exhaust setup. I'm running Stromberg carbs with my peddle hard linked to the front carb. The rear carb is connected to the front carb with a slider rod that only engages after about a 1/4 throttle. This seems to work pretty well but I'm seeing about 100deg heat difference (via laser temp gun) just below the two carbs where the exhaust manifolds bolt to the intake manifolds with the rear manifold being the hottest. I'm at 5-7k feet elevation so have chosen to use variable jets to get my best spark plug burn and have taken great care to set all the jets the same. I haven't tried it yet but was wondering is there maybe a common knowledge that the rear carb should be jetted differently than the front. Has anyone else set up their dual carb config outside of the recommended "dual carbs should be hard connected together" or "I'm at sea level so everything works just fine with little adjustment" and how have you done yours.Â
-
I too just did my dual carb exhaust setup. Can’t remember the exact numbers but I calculated the area of the two stock exhaust diameters and found that a single (just a little larger diameter) exhaust was roughly the same combined area. So I just ordered a Y adaptor to fit my pipes diameters (I think 2.25’s in and 2.5 out) had my exhaust guy bend two shorties coming out of the manifolds (about three feet long ) at the proper angle about 45 deg from the ground. We fit the Y where it looked the best just below the manifold that would allow for the horizontal bend just past that. I picked out the muffler I wanted to use and he made the rest of the exhaust to the back bumper.
Â
the hardest part is finding someone who will still bend custom exhaust.
-
Oddly enough, I’m not really thinking there’s a clog issue as much as a (the bracket has a small amount of rust in places that lay against the Rad and I can’t tell if it has weakened the shell or not) problem. I asked about the Rad inline filter because I do believe that’s just good insurance for something this old. And I had looked at some of the filters and read mixed reviews. So I was glad to hear another opinion. Hopefully I don’t even have a problem. Just clean and repaint and reinstall. Wishful thinking? Why yes. Yes it is.Â
-
 I also looked at that filter but saw a lot of complaints online about it being cheaply made. So you are OK with it? That’s good to know.
-
Sweet. All right; If Buick says it’s done that way then that’s how we’ll do it. Thanks so much. And it works out anyway. I blasted and painted the original (I’m assuming) water pump... and now it’s leaking. So it all has to come off anyway. Maybe I’ll pull the front cover for the timing chain and inspect that while the Rad is out too. Wouldn’t hurt to replace the seals anyway.
Â
Oh, and to answer the other question... no I have yet to drive it more than down the street and back. It had very little power and the front suspension was all sloppy and deteriorated. I figured it best to go through everything before I tried to do anything ambitious. There’ll be lots of time for driving when it’s done. Cheers
-
I agree, definitely the rods. Still don’t know if it will clear. And it looks really clean so I’d hate to damage it. I’m not even sure its got problems, I’m just afraid to find out the hard way.
Starts great cold. Not so much when hot.
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
So let's just assume that there is an amount of percolating going on with a hot engine and too let's assume that that is causing fuel to be deposited into the intake while it is setting there not running. Let's also assume that as it stands, the only way to start the car when hot is with full choke and the pedal fully depressed. ( For now we'll disregard the suggestion that there is a technique that if done correctly will start the car every time, no fuss, no muss... which I am eager to try in the very near future) Wouldn't that suggest that whatever fuel has already been dumped down the intake due to percolating has basically had no effect on whether it will start or not? As in, adding more fuel to too much fuel (due to percolation) doesn't really suggest that the preexisting percolated fuel is the problem. Damn, can I use percolat* in a sentence any more times? Because if that were the case, then it would seem that giving it no gas and either using the choke or not would most certainly start the car. And NO I'm really NOT trying to be difficult. Therefore is it even remotely possible that a colder plug, having been able to cool sufficiently more in that length of time because it is, wait for it, colder... could that even remotely be a fix to this problem?