Spazzaroth

I replace the O2 sensor. The car runs beautifully now. Thank you so much brother.

Just the joint. Thanks, going to have to find me a torque wrench.

Hello fellow reattards! I'm waiting on a new CV axle to come in and I'll be replacing it in my 89 Reatta. Anybody on here have any good tips or tricks for that? Thanks!

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

it actually hovers around 900 and then will dip down quickly to 500 or so and then back up.

I've also cleaned the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body to no effect.

So my 1989 Reatta has a rough idle. I know there's been lots of posts about this but I'm going to ask the question again. I recently replaced the alternator and the battery in my car and when I did my car started to die when stopped at stop lights. It takes about 5 to 10 seconds after I stop at the light for the idle to dip and the engine to die. It had a rough idle before but it would only dip down to about 500 RPM and wouldn't die. now if I'm stopped at a stoplight for 10 seconds and I don't shift into neutral the car will die. I recently replaced all three relays, this didn't change anything. if I shift the car into neutral the idle will still vary from about 900 to 500 RPM but it won't die. I checked the TPI and everything looks good on that. just wondering if any of you experts out there had any suggestions on what else to check.

well I got the column apart I got the part replaced and I got it all back together and the car is working. One slight snafu when I installed the lock cylinder apparently I had the switch on the ignition switch actuator in the accessory position. So now if I lock the steering wheel and remove the key the car turns on the radio. So have got a tear it back down get the ignition cylinder out and fix that. But other than that it was a successful operation the most difficult part was realigning the lock plate on the steering wheel shaft with the splines on the shaft as I was putting it back together.

Yeah, tried to get the column but it's not to be. I printed out the section of the service manual. Once the part and the pin remover comes in I'll start phase 2. Wish me luck!

Ok, there was a part number on it so I have the right replacement coming. But the task of how to remove it is still pressing.

yes,. The rack is broken. But I'm kind of stuck. I can't figure out how to get it out. And on top of that the replacement I ordered is clearly the wrong part. Help! Oh wise Reatta gurus.

It has to be. I haven't taken it apart yet but it's the only thing that makes sense.

I sent you an email. sounds like The whole steering column is going to be the way to go.

Any chance of getting a picture of what that linkage looks like or where it is? That was the first thing that I look for but I could not find it.

Should I replace both? when I turn the cylinder into the off position I can pull the key out and lock the steering wheel but the car will not shut off and it won't turn over when I turn it to the starting position either.

So I drove my car to work the other day and when I go to turn it off the ignition cylinder will turn all the way to the opposition but the car does not die or shut off and the electrical all stays on. I ended up having to pull the air intake hose off and block the air intake to kill the engine. And then disconnect the negative terminal on the battery to shut the electrical off to the car.I'm guessing that this is some issue to do with the linkage between the key cylinder and the actual car ignition system. But I don't know where to start. Do I need to pull the steering wheel to fix this?

Well, I replaced the fuel pump yesterday and it worked so well it blew a hole in my fuel line, which was quite corroded anyway. I "may" have twisted it when disconnecting the sender. So after some creative engineering I replaced the last foot or so of the fuel line with some swedge fittings and some 3/8's tubing. The fuel pump was the problem I'm pretty sure because it started fairly quickly after a couple turn overs. I had replaced the pulsator too while I had the sender out but I would be surprised if that had caused the issue. I just replaced the relay after testing the pump because I had it and why not? The Reatta seems to be running happily now. Next project is to figure out how to get a good seal on the driver's side weather stripping. No amount of adhesive seems to be doing the trick.

Thanks, I'll put a relay on that cart. Figure I'll just replace everything and let God sort them out.

So now I've got a cart with a new fuel pump, strainer, pulsator, and fuel pressure regulator. Is there anything I'm forgetting?

I've had my 89 Reatta for a few months now and am slowly burning through the various problems with it. So far I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and cam magnet/ sensors. Then I replaced all the spark plugs and spark plugs and wires. As soon as I did that the car ran a lot better but started having trouble starting. Now it takes almost a full minute of cranking to get started. I tested the fuel pressure and with the key on it hits 15lbs and running it stays around 35lbs. I replaced the fuel filter early on and noticed the fuel that bled out looked really old. But I've driven the car daily since then and burned multiple tanks of gas. Anyone on here have any suggestions as to where I should start looking to diagnose my rough start issue?

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the input. Just replacing the speakers is going to make this a much less expensive project.

Gotcha. So the 4 ohm speakers are not a problem.

I did know I could install 6x9's. The reason I'm so fixated on the idea of an amount is that I've read that putting 4ohm speakers in the front could damage my radio which is designed to run 8ohm speakers. Am I mistaken about this? Can I just put 4 ohm whoofers in the front and not worry about the amp?

Thanks. I think I found the instruction under a thread in this forum called "ultimate radio upgrade part 1". If I can find somebody with the tools I think I can do that. Is there some kind of dynamic noise reduction that I can add between the amp and the modified radio module?

So do I need some kind of wiring package for the Chevy radio module in order to get the pre-outputs for the amp?