Spazzaroth

Last I checked a transmission rebuild is about 1500 if you drop the tranny yourself and bring it to get rebuilt. Not sure what a new transmission costs.

It's black exterior with burgundy interior. The body is straight the paint on the roof is faded a little bit and the armrest leather is worn through. I've been meaning to post a couple pictures. It's not in bad shape but it does have 260,000 miles on it.

I'm sure we can come to an agreement. 🙂

So I'm getting rid of my reatta. It runs well but the transmission is broke. I'm tired of working on it so if you have a trailer and live near the Louisiana/Texas border I'll sell it to you for the price of a catalytic converter. If no one wants it it's going to a scrapyard. Respond to this if you're interested or DM me for contact info.

Just that when I move the shifter the engine rpms don't increase. But I guess that isn't what you were saying would happen if the axle was broke.

I think it might be. Or it was something that was so close to happening for a while that it just pushed it over the edge. It was just a slightly larger than average bump. Nothing that should have been damaging to the car.

The car doesn't throttle up at all when I try to change gears. I'll check the speedometer when I get home tonight though. (They got me working 16hrs on a Sunday).

So I chased the cable back to this small triangular box on the top of the transmission. Shifting... It looks like it's hooked up and shifting right. There was a plug in the side of the box that I pulled and cleaned up. I'm going to assume since all that seems connected right that the problem is inside the transmission. This may be the death of my reatta. I've put a lot of work keeping this car running over the last couple years. But I don't think it's going to get a new transmission or even a rebuilt one. Might be time for a new car.

Nope, no damage. Fluid levels are good. Has to be some kind of linkage that came loose I guess. But underneath the shifter everything looks fine. Not sure where else to look. It wasn't that big of a bump. Just shook the car a little, no impact to the actual vehicle.

Checked the linkage at the throttle and under the shifter and it seems like the cable is still in place.

That's pretty much it. I went over a bump and the car switched into neutral and now I can't get it to change gears. Park will stop the car but other than that I only get neutral. Thinking it's probably a wiring issue. But I don't know which plugs to check. Thanks guys!

Over the last few months my MPG has gone from about 26 down to 14. Car still runs. Idle is a little rough but I drive it locally. Any idea of things I should check?

So my 89 coupe has always had a bit of an alternator whine that comes over the speaker cables. It's never been terrible but recently whenever the car warms up and goes into closed loop the whine shifts from low and barely noticeable to a loud buzzing that almost drowns out any music that I'm trying to play. I've tried cleaning the ground cables around the battery and checking the ground cable for the antenna but to no avail. Do you guys have any ideas?

I replaced the plugs and wires about 2 years ago and the coil about a year ago and also the ICM about a year ago. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and hope that it's not the ICM or the coil and say I'm probably due for some new plugs and wires.

I'll check it out and report back.

This happens when I'm driving down the road going about 50 and trying to maintain my speed. The car will start shaking as though the engine is shaking. Doesn't happen when I start up doesn't happen when I accelerate hard I end up having to take my foot off the gas and gas it hard and then release to avoid the shaking. I've been checking all of the readings on my CRT but nothing seems to be wonky. Was wondering if any of y'all had any ideas?

What is the symptoms of the drive end bearing failing? When my alternator died I usually just start seeing 9 to 12 volts being put out and nothing else.

Last time I bought one I got it from O'Reilly's with a lifetime warranty. So even if I have to so even if I have to replace it every 6 months I don't think I'll have to pay for another one. I'm driving there now to replace the alternator in the parking lot and drive 6 hours home.

I replaced mine back in February and it looks like I have to do it again. Currently stranded in Blanco tx waiting till Tuesday for the local o'reillys to get the part in. Fun times.

I'm not sure if this has been posted here before but I thought this was a pretty good review of our little terrors.

Just bought a headlight bracket off of him. Nothing but good things to say about the man.

Well finally finished, with the cost of parts and the front end alignment coming to a total of about $600. I wonder how much money I saved by not going to a mechanic... I definitely gave part of my soul to that repair job.

Had a similar problem recently. Car would run rough and would die at idle with no codes. After checking/replacing every part I could think of it turned out to be a bad cam (or was it the crank? I get those two confused) sensor that hadn't been tightened properly and had gotten chewed up by the harmonic balancer. New coil pack and ignition module helped too.

Turns out there was a protective cap on the inside of the fitting that I didn't know was there. It took me three days of straight work to have my father-in-law figure that one out. I don't know how I get out of bed in the morning.

Well I don't think I'll be doing it again. But this is doing my head in... This fitting will not thread at all. the old fitting will thread into the new rack. The new hose will thread into the old rack and pinion. But the new hose will not thread into the new rack. I have been trying to get this fitting to thread for 2 days. No joke. It is identical to the old hose in every way. And don't tell me to use the old hose because I cut it to get the old rack out. I'm totally stuck. I worked offshore for 10 years and have had less trouble with hoses and fittings that have been sitting in seawater for 30 years.