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Posts posted by MY64RIVIERA

  1. The problem seems to be that the bulbs are loose within the metal housing and eventually lose contact with the socket (same setup as the pictures posted by 60Flattop).  The metal housing within the taillight socket does not hold the bulb tight and therefore when this happens I lose blinkers, taillights and/or brake lights.  I've seen other guys with similar GM taillights try and solder that metal housing closed to keep the bulb tight in the socket.  I'll continue to explore different options.  Just frustrating to continue to mess with it.  I am definitely using the correct bulb.   

  2. I inquired about this car pretty extensively at the beginning of the year. The rear bumper on the driver side is noticeably higher and had me a little concerned. Also the odometer appeared to be missing numbers, like they were worn off which was odd. I almost pulled the trigger on it, but went in a different direction. 

  3. Alright folks....I'm sure a bunch of you are at the annual meeting, but wanted to ask a question which I think I know the answer to.  I was at a local shop looking to get my exhaust done on my 64 and the owner of the shop has a couple first gens in his yard and one of them he believes to be a branded "Limited" early additional 63'.  It has the following additions to the body:

    1. "Limited" badge on the truck lid where the 64' "Riviera" badge is located (Looks like the same script as the "Riviera").  I know in 63' BUICK was spelled across the truck lid.  

    2. Top of front fenders are mounted turn signals indicators (like the attached picture).  Fairly confident this was not an option and someone added (was actually pretty well done and did look stock)

    3. Rear quarter panels were marked with a round Buick Tri-Shield emblem at the rear most point of rear fenders.  (Looked very odd).


    Stupid me....I didn't take pictures of any of those things, but did take a picture of the body plate.  The car was an early production (11C), very highly optioned with A/C and was originally Spruce Green with Sandalwood Cloth and Vinyl interior.


    The car is in pretty bad shape and would take ALOT of work to bring it back to life.  I wanted to provide this guy some information so he didn't go down a path of thinking he had a hidden gem sitting in his yard.


    Looking for confirmation that there wasn't a "Limited" early production 63' Riviera.  Fire away.





  4. On 6/15/2019 at 9:59 PM, TampaRiv said:

    Hello gents,


       I'm writing from Columbus instead of Tampa, as I'm up north for a couple of months visiting friends and family and working for clients up here.  Columbus is a great town, and getting bigger and busier like every place else it seems.


       My question tonight is about Vintage Air Systems for use in the Riviera, specifically my '63.  I have seen several of these units lately in a variety of cars from a '67 C10 Pickup, to today's sighting in a '67 Healey 3000.   My questions are:   Do they work well?  Are they easy enough to install that a layman can do it? (By layman I mean a guy who has a high degree of mechanical skill and troubleshooting talent, but not a lick of AC experience).   Can the original Riv ductwork and controls be adapted?   Tampa is great from Nov. 1st to June 1st, but it's hotter than shit in June-Oct, so the AC is a must.   I would be glad to hear your stories of the Vintage Air products, and particularly which set-up is right for the Riviera.


       Finally, I bought yet another car today, a 1967 Chrysler Newport 2-door hardtop.  I stole the car, and it is really nice.  Some sorting will need to be done of course, but that should be fun, and, there's a Mopar section to this website so hopefully those guys will be as helpful as you chaps here in the Riv section.  Amazingly, the '67 Newport  coupe is actually longer than the '63 Riviera....The Riv is 17 feet 3 inches (correct me if that's wrong), and the Newport comes in at an even 18 feet!  It's a 2-door!  Insane.  Oh, and some research on the interweb told me that the slab-sided Chryslers were designed by a guy who left Ford after designing the '61 Continental. 


    Cheers from Buckeye-land





    I live just outside of Columbus and have a vintage AC setup on my 64 which was done by the previous owner.  My car is a non-AC car originally so they mounted vents under the dash but was done very cleanly.  Additionally they used slider controls similar to the factory so it gave it a clean look.  If you are going to be up in the area for awhile I would be more than willing to show you my setup.  Please feel free to message me for details if you would like to see it in person.



  5. Tom,


    Thanks...the Vintage Air was added by the previous owner and there is an electric fan in front of the radiator but they didn't add a fan shroud or clutch.  I haven't experienced any issues with over heating, but then again it hasn't gotten too hot here in central Ohio yet.  Radiator looks to be in good shape and possibly re-corded not too long ago.  I was just wondering if i should consider a clutch.  




  6. Couple questions.  My 64' does not have a clutch for the fan.  I know I'm losing some horsepower at high rpms, but what was the standard option and should I consider putting a clutch in?  My car is originally a non-A/C car, but Vintage A/C has been added.  Which provides better cooling?


    Thanks and happy motoring this great weekend!



  7. Having just replaced my mirror I can confirm that my door skin did not have any additional reinforcement for the mirror.  It was simply held on by two self tapping screens and the threaded stud/nut on the mirror itself.  I would like to also point out that the replacement tri-shield mirror purchased from CARS did have to be modified slightly to work if anybody chooses to use this in the future.  The bracket holes did not quite line up with the original holes on the door so I had to drill a new hole in the bracket itself.  I still plan to replace the original mirror somewhere down the line, just needed to get something that was quick and easy to install for the shows this year.  

    • Thanks 1

  8. Ed,


    My car came equipped with the remote mirror however the toggle was missing and the cables were stuffed down in the door. The prior owner must have lost the joystick or didn’t want to cut the freshly installed door panels and reinstall.   I’m simply trying to take the path of least resistance, but will keep the original mirror and search for a toggle down the road. 


    Thanks again everybody for the help!


  9. Update.  I removed the belt line from the door skin and the top 3 acorn nuts from the front of the door skin and was able to quickly access the nut from the inside of the door, which indeed was holding the mirror to the door/bracket. I also found that the 3 screws behind the belt line were missing which I will replace when I get the new mirror.  For whatever reason the prior owner had the correct remote mirror however they did not have the toggle so the mirror was basically useless.  I've opted to go with the tri-shield mirror from CARS and am awaiting for it to arrive.  I'm slightly worried that the bracket they provide might need to be modified. Has anybody used this mirror before.  I decided it would be easier to go with this mirror than cut a hole in the door panel, buy the toggle and then have to feed it thru the door.




  10. Trying to remove the remote mirror on my 64 and am having a hard time. I do not have the toggle on the inside so the cables are just sitting down in the door. I have the chassis manual and have removed the screw holding the mirror to the bracket but it won’t budge. Looks like the base of the mirror might sit on a metal dowel in addition to the two self tapping screws for the bracket?  Do I just need to use a little force. Can’t get the damn thing to budge. 

    Many help would be greatly appreciated. 






  11. Alright experts....I need some help.  I live in central Ohio and after the car sitting for a couple months the weather warmed up a little so I decided to start my 64 up and take it for a little spin.  After a couple cranks and pumping the gas pedal she started up (sat for a month), however a few minutes into running I observed fuel leaking from the fuel pump.  I got under her and it appeared it was coming from the top end of the fuel pump and not the intake on the bottom side.  It was flowing pretty good so I immediately turned it off.  Got underneath her again and wiped it up and let it sit for a couple minutes.  Then I decided I would fire it back up and then this time there was no leaking....dry as a bone.  Let it run for quite awhile and the leaking was gone.  Two weeks later, exact same scenario however i only pumped the gas pedal once, thinking that might have been the problem.


    Any recommendations on possible causes?  I also took it to my mechanic which was approximately 15 miles away and he has not been able to reproduce the issues?


    Thanks in advance for the help!