MY64RIVIERA
-
Posts
64 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by MY64RIVIERA
-
-
I got my WW's from Diamondback tires. They can vulcanize pretty much any width you may want on a modern-day radial tire. Mine are 255/45/18-rear and 245/45/18-front Sumitomo HTR Z5. The look i went for might not be for everybody, but with the black exterior and red interior I wanted that tuxedo look.
As many have said...Diamondbacks aren't cheap, but you are getting a quality tire and they look great!
-
3
-
-
I had a new one sourced and installed locally here in Columbus Ohio in Oct '22. To my surprise one of the local distributors had one in stock. Only paid 325 and that included install. The father & son duo do a ton of classic car windshields and knew their way around the Rivi like they owned one.
-
4
-
-
On 5/2/2022 at 9:51 PM, Jim Cannon said:
Center driveshaft bearing?
This was my problem....center support/carrier bearing was bad.
-
1
-
-
15 hours ago, RivNut said:
Have you tried the Repop guys in Menasha, AR?
Yep....they are one of the manufacturers that OPGi sell for. Even their direct website doesn't show anything available for the Riviera unless my search wasn't done correctly.
Thanks for the suggestion though!
-
I've looked everywhere for replacement window felt strips for my '64. It appears there is a national backorder (CARS Inc, Steele Rubber, OPGi, etc). Does anybody have another lead or slightly used ones? I really just need the one that attaches to the outer door skin.
Thanks,
Robert
-
Ever since I was a little kid I've been addicted to cars and unfortunately I am still inflicted with the sickness to this very day (expensive addiction). My dad always talked about his '65 Gran Sport and how he raised hell in that car after he returned from his 2 tours of duty in Vietnam. I never saw photographic evident of his car, but anything my dad thought was cool I did too. Shortly after getting married at the young age of 19 in 2001 and buying a house, I thought it would be a good idea to start searching for my first classic car (eyes where bigger than my paychecks). I had previously found a '65 Sahara Mist close to where I lived in Salt Lake City, but it was a little out of my price range. About 3 years later I was at a local car show and and saw an advertisement for a '64 Marlin Blue that a gentlemen was selling for his elderly neighbor. I immediately called the number and met up with the guy at a storage unit where the elderly woman parked the car after her husband died in 1984. As soon as he lifted the door on the storage unit I blurted out "I'll take it" I paid $6000 for it and drove it home a couple days later after he got it up and running. I unfortunately only had that car for a couple years before selling it prior to moving to Hawaii....flash forward 10 years later I was finally back on the mainland and could afford another classic car.....I immediately started my search for another Riviera and found my current one. I doubt this will be the last, but man I love these cars!
-
8
-
-
14 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
Red interior!
Same applies to '63 Riviera and full size Buicks of 1963 - 64.
How bad is it? I can see 1 crack and maybe another. Tough to match if touching-up.
The 4 chrome clips on the rim was a good idea. Like partitions in a concrete slab. Allows for expansion without cracking the rim. Lessor cars with a 1-piece mold cracked in more places.
There are kits for DIY from resto suppliers:
https://www.ecklers.com/steering-wheel-complete-restoration-kit-57-287883-1.html
The major cracks are on both sides of the horn bar and the top and bottom in the corners where the horn bar meets the wheel circumference. It's not horrible but in person there are at least 5 or 6 cracks. I'd like to find a solution this winter while it's in hibernation and have seen the do-it-yourself kits but I'm too worried I would make it worse.
-
Looking for recommendations on shops that can restore my cracked steering wheel. I contacted Dennis at Quality Restorations listed in the Riview and he said he didn't have the mold for this steering wheel. I was also surprised that if he could have done it he was quoting around $1,500-2K. Hoping someone in this group might have had theirs repaired at some point in time and can provide a good recommendation.
Thanks,Robert
-
1
-
-
On 9/27/2021 at 2:37 PM, 64RivieraLife said:
Oh man that thing is besutifu, what brand rims?size? And tires?
18X8 American Racing Torq Thrust II w/ Diamond Back tires (Sumitomo's) 255/45(rear) & 245/45(front)
-
1
-
-
937 Marysville, OH
-
5
-
-
On 9/13/2021 at 11:44 AM, Hazdaz said:
What is that round thing between the lights?
Just a reflection off the high beam headlight ring. No customization here....standard configuration.
-
-
I just recently received my Diamondback tires for my '64. These are Sumitomo HTR Z5 255/45/18 & 245/45/18 with 1 3/4 inch white wall. I haven't put any miles on them yet but I'm loving the new look. When I ordered these they weren't yet up on their website, but when I called they offered them to me. I know they have Nitto's and Toyo's for the larger size diameter and wider width. They were great to work with and got them within 2 1/2 weeks of ordering them. I've only heard great things from this company. I'll update this thread after I put some more miles on it.
Thanks,
Robert
-
4
-
-
I just placed my order for 4 Sumitomo HTRZ5 (new to their catalog) 1-3/4 white wall tires 245/45/18 & 255/45/18. Can't wait to get them. They told me 2 to 2 1/2 weeks. They will be going on my 64 paired with new Torq Thrust II's from American Racing. Love the stock look, but also want to have some different options.
-
2
-
-
14 hours ago, TampaRiv said:
Well, Tom, I did take the bezels off, and even removed the speedometer. And the illumination bulbs are easy to see, so they are easy to remove from the front with some needle-nosed pliers. BUT, when you try to insert the new bulb in the socket, the required pressure can break the socket and it falls down in behind the dash somewhere. After doing that twice, I started to apply a little bit of Vaseline to the bulb, which worked well.
However, replacing any of the "idiot" lights (RH bezel) from the front is not possible. If you remove the RH bezel you will see what I mean. So, with respect to the "idiot" lights, the answer is to reach up through the access panels and twist out the socket, replace the bulbs, and reach the socket back in and twist them back into their respective holes. Easier said than done if, like me, you are well-endowed in the hand department if you know what I mean. But, as usual, I got 'er done!
Hey Rich,
Looks great. I'm actually working on this very project and just waiting for my replacement bulbs to arrive. I'm taking your exact approach, removing the front bezels and accessing the ones I can from the front and the others from the access doors under the dash. I'm having a hard time with the LH bulbs behind the speedometer (1 closets to the steering column at the bottom of the gauge cluster). How do you remove the needles/hands on the speedometer to remove the faceplace? Also my highbeam light has never worked and found that it was replaced with a different type of bulb with a ground wire coming out of it. Not sure if this was because the prior owner lost the twist style socket and this was their idea to replace it, but I've ordered some new sockets from Napa and will try replacing it with the original style.
Any other lessons learned that you can share would be greatly appreciated. Liked the idea of adding some vaseline when pushing them back into the sockets.
Thanks
Robert
-
1
-
-
Here's mine in my 64'. I believe this to be original to the car. I'd love to find out who "The Col. O. Palmers" was. I was told the original owner was a retired Air Force Colonel from Pope Air Force Base in NC (which is near where I purchased the car).
-
2
-
-
I want to change mine out to a custom wheel and tire too, however I'm finding it hard to leave behind the classic white wall and wire hubcap look. I also want something unique that isn't a Ridler, American Racing Torque Thrust II or US Mag (All by the way look great).
-
2
-
-
Thank you all for your help. My original hunch was it was something to do with the front right turn signal as I did have power and lights to the right rear, albeit solid. However, as an additional measure I did replace the 1157 bulb socket in the right rear because the metal housing kept coming out when I would remove it from the metal taillight bezel and it was in pretty rough shape anyway. After replacing that, I still got the same result so i returned to the front right. After replacing the front turn signal with a new bulb and ensuring the bulb was good, I actually took the housing off and check behind to ensure everything was good there. Ultimately the front turn signal socket was not holding the bulb tight, even though i had continually messed with it. I finally got the bulb in there tight enough where it made good contact and I finally got functioning signals all around. So frustrating as i had taken that front side marker grill off at least 2 or 3 times and with brand new chrome bumpers I didn't want to scratch them up.
Ultimately, I'm back up and running. Thanks again for the help! I appreciate support from this group.
I'll continue to ask questions and learn along the way. I'm always afraid to try and fix stuff myself because I'm not very mechanically inclined even though I hung around and watched my dad growing up (if only it was a natural trait passed down). He was a great mechanic; worked on tanks in the military and then taught diesel mechanics and later worked on heavy equipment in the gold mines in Nevada. Unfortunately I was pretty young and wasn't able to absorb as much information as i would have liked. So I tell myself, dig in and try....worst case scenario is you can't fix it and then call in an expert....but the joy and satisfaction of fixing it yourself pays off.
Thanks,
Robert
-
1
-
-
55 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Before going into all of that, have you tried your turn signals with the tilt wheel in each of the 7 positions? If the turn switch cable, from the steering wheel to the switch at the bottom of the column is busted, and 95% of them will be, then it could be a contact alignment problem in the switch at the base of the column. There is not a single wire from the switch to the bulbs. There are pins that have to properly align themselves as they slide across each other. The broken cable will not allow for proper pin alignment.
Ed,
I don't have a tilt column.
-
I know this has been discussed a lot, so don't kill me for wanting some additional help on a new thread because I'm stuck. I know these taillights, signals and brake lights are a pain and alot of times it's a ground issue with the socket not grounding properly in the taillight housing. I've got a new one that I haven't been able to resolve.
All my lights work except for the right turn signal, front and back. The back turn signal just lights up solid....does not blink and the front doesn't come on at all. Left side operates fine, both front and back. All other lights including brake lights, head lights, park lights, and taillight all work. Just the damn right turn signals aren't cooperating with me. Changed the front bulb thinking that might be a problem, that didn't help. Front and rear bumpers where just put back on after chrome and prior to that they where working fine. Is there a known ground issue with the front that I'm over looking? I've focused all my attention on the rear end because that's been the problem in the past.
Looked through the Chassis manual but nothing is jumping out.
Thanks,
Robert
-
Wondering if anybody has a source to replace the T style bumper bolts for the front bumper. I just got my bumpers re-chromed and 2 of the 4 for the front bumper have turned up missing. Not sure where they may have gone missing or if they were even there to begin with. I've checked CARS Inc and OPGI and haven't had much luck. Between the body shop and the chrome plater....who knows!
Thanks,
Robert
-
On 5/27/2020 at 4:30 PM, DDDDDan said:
Just did my instrument and speedo. It’s a start but it looks killer.
Can you share the details for the bulbs? Was it plug and play and by the looks of it the little one found the access door and just reached up and replaced them!
thanks,
Robert
-
On 6/5/2020 at 10:53 AM, bodayguy said:
I put my 64 on a truck to Columbus and a new owner, Brian. Hopefully he joins the board here. You guys have been great. I do hope years down the line I can get a 65. Beautiful cars!!
Columbus, Ohio? I have a matching one with red interior. Would like to meet up with others in the area who have first gens!
Thanks,
Robert
-
1
-
-
I am on my 4th fuel pump this year. I was wondering the same thing. Second one was a complete failure and i almost lost my entire car (Carter from Jegs). Fuel leaking all over under the hood. 3rd one (Precision from O'Reilly's) did not leak but I was not getting enough fuel pressure. If I lose one more, I'm going electric.
64 riviera driveshaft
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I have a '64 and experienced this exact same thing about a year or so ago. I changed the center support bearing and had the drive shaft "balanced" two or three times by reputable shops. I tried everything and it still persisted. As a last-ditch effort, I finally broke down and bought a used drive shaft from Steve Lorenzen hoping to solve the problem and sure enough that fixed the problem. While comparing my original drive shaft and the used/new to me drive shaft I discovered that the double cardan joint at the pinon yoke may have been the problem. This joint needs to pivot from freely side to side like a teetertotter and should never be locked out in a neutral position. Mine however was getting "locked out" in the neutral position, thus causing the problem.
That's what seemed to be my problem but I could be wrong. I'm a novice here.
Thanks,
Robert