stvaughn
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Posts posted by stvaughn
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1 hour ago, plymouthcranbrook said:
Although it is funny that the 6 volt I just bought a month ago for my Plymouth still has removable caps. Perhaps tractors owners are more likely to need to add water?
Actually I believe you are correct. 6 volt generator systems don’t regulate voltage as well as modern alternator systems so you will need to check the water level once in a while just to be sure. If your charging system is over charging it will most certainly need water added and you will have corrosion at the terminals. Distilled water only please. That is the reason I put AGM batteries in any car where the battery is under the floorboard. At my age I’ll never have to see the batteries in my REO again. 😄
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What’s going on with the Chinese? posts?
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We’re going to need more information about what you have, what part are you working on, and some pictures would also help.
Steve
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Wow, that’s awesome, thanks. What kind of material are you looking for?
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1 hour ago, TexRiv_63 said:
Can anyone else help with photos of these 32 reo emblems?
Oops, my mistake. The REO is a 1933 Model S
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The reason you can’t make them out is because they’re missing. Apparently they are in somebody’s ornament collection somewhere.
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If your intent is to be able to drive the car regularly you would be wise to replace all your fuel system rubber parts with new. Then you won’t have to stress out trying to find non ethanol fuel. Gates barricade hose is suitable for ethanol and new (not new old stock, NOS) fuel pump rebuild kits are also suitable.
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36 minutes ago, keiser31 said:
Right side 5 down are 1939 Plymouth with the offset handle. Two below those are 1946-48 Plymouth.
Thanks keiser31, I’m guessing that they are not particularly rare and probably have very little value. If someone needs them, let me know.
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These were in a box that came with my 33 REO purchase. They don’t match the handles on either of my REO’s. What do they go on and does anyone need them?
Steve
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Do you ever run across anything for a 32 REO Model S? Radiator emblem and crank hole cover needed.
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Thanks Paul, I’m just getting this car on the road and keep an infrared thermometer on board just to check the brake drums.
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Paul, I haven’t located any service information yet so for right now I have it adjusted to allow approximately 1/4” pedal travel which allows for a very small amount of freeplay at the pushrod.
Steve
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Thanks Paul. I went out and immediately re-adjusted the push rod. I’ll keep an eye on it on the next couple of trips just to make sure it doesn’t get tight.
Steve
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Should there be any slack or preload in the push rod adjustment? I adjusted all the slack out without pushing the piston in. Is that the correct adjustment?
Thanks, Steve
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Have you tried rotating your brackets 180 degrees?
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2 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:
Optima on an AACA judged car = points off, unless the car came with them originally. Same with non-tar top, etc.
Any judges want to field the question of how many points deduction for Optima (with obvious round cells) vs typical smooth plastic replacement for a vehicle that came with tar top?
Not an issue for me. 😎
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Bloo,
when that picture was taken I was in the process of installing a cutoff switch.
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38 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:
The best battery is one that fits in the space available, with the terminals in the right places, with the highest CCA rating and the highest reserve capacity (RC). That is how I find my next battery. I haven't come across this "group" classification system (is it a size system?) here but then I only look at batteries every few years.
Here you go Spinnyhill.
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5 hours ago, Mikefit said:
I need an explanation of why you can not use a deep cycle battery to start a automobile engine .
This may help.
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4 hours ago, marcapra said:
I was looking at Optima dry cell 6 volt batteries. What's the difference between one called a Starting battery and one that just has a number?
You want a starting battery (red top in the case of Optima). Deep cycle batteries are not suitable for starting automobile engines. Optima’s are not dry cell, they are AGM (absorbed glass mat) and are sealed so you never have to add water. They won’t cause any corrosion issues around the terminals or rot out your battery box. They are especially good in applications where access to the battery is inconvenient like under the floorboard. They are expensive but well worth it if you want a maintenance free battery solution.
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The biggest advantage of an Optima in any application where the battery is underneath the floor is that you never have to mess with checking the water level. Install it and forget it.
And while this would be overkill in a Model A, it sure spins a REO engine over nicely.
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Nick,
For windshield use you want laminated safety glass not tempered glass. If tempered glass gets hit by a rock from a passing car it may shatter into a thousand pieces.
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Ok, time for a final report on my original topic, weeping master cylinder. Recently a REO club member sent me a copy of the REO owners manual and reading through it I found where it says to fill the master cylinder 1/2” below the fill opening. I have been filling it almost to the top which apparently allowed fluid to seep past the top gasket and collect on the bottom as a drip. Now after lowering the fluid level and making several 10 mile trial runs I have a dry master cylinder. YEA. 👏
As a side note, we bought this car with zero knowledge about the car or even REO’s in particular. With the help of members of this forum and members of the REO club we have now brought a long neglected part of American automobile history back to life. It runs and drives wonderfully. We are happy campers. 😃
Thanks,
Steve
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Thanks Bloo,
He sent a picture of the back side. That’s what I want. Got it ordered.
Steve
6 V carter 4259 electric fuel pump question .
in Buick - Post War
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Since the Carter pump is not designed to pull through with a mechanical pump then I suspect you intend to have it running all the time. If that is the case you should install an oil pressure cutoff switch to kill the pump when the engine is not running.
Just so you’ll know. If you ask Carter that question they will say DO NOT pump through a mechanical pump with an electric pump. The primary reason being if the mechanical pump diaphragm ruptures you will be pumping gasoline into your crankcase. If you’re going to use the Carter as a primary pump and you don’t care about keeping the original look just bypass the mechanical pump. If you want to keep the original pump in the system the recommended procedure would be to remove the mechanical pump actuating lever and install a blockoff plate between the pump and block.
I use an electric pump just to fill the carburetor when the fuel evaporates on these hot summer days.
And yes I am sure many people ignore the above advice and have never had a problem.