stvaughn
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Posts posted by stvaughn
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Someone please post some contact information on the Uvira coating.
Thanks, Steve
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At 12 volts your battery is not fully charged and 20 minutes driving is not nearly enough to charge it. Read this.
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Thanks for the ideas
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What’s a good 6 volt battery maintainer?
Steve
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17 hours ago, automaschinewerks said:
on a straight 4/6/8 engine, there is no need for bobweights because the 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 rod journals are equally spaced on the length of the crank from the centerline to the ends, and equally indexed at 120 degrees apart. on a v8 type engine, there are 4 rod journals equally indexed, but not mating on an equal spacing from the center main on the crank.
Thanks, learned something new today.
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Maybe I’m missing something here but doesn’t balancing a crankshaft require adding bob weights to the crank throws? The weight of the bob weights is a calculation derived from the weight of the rod/piston assembly. Did your machinest allow for the different weights when he balanced the crank? You need to know. If so don’t change anything, just put it together.
Have you talked to your machinest about what you plan to do? If you change something and the engine vibrates, he’s just gonna shake his head and say “to bad, so sad, you should have listened to me”.
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I am not familiar with the Chevrolet setup but most engines in this era had the intake manifold attached to the exhaust manifold for heat transfer to warm up the carburetor for cool weather operation. If that’s the way Chevy did it then you’ll need both. I have no idea if the 32 manifold will fit the 29 engine though. Hopefully a Chevy guy will chime in with the answer.
Steve
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Bud, I suspect that I meet the qualification you mentioned "of a certain age", unfortunately I have have not amassed a collection of printed material to use as a reference and therefore rely on the generosity of people like you and spinneyhill to fill in the blanks of my knowledge base which is quite large. Thanks for all the input.
Now back to my tie rod end. My REO Mechanics Instruction Book (reprint) has a section devoted to the 1932 Model S and shows the exact tie rod end that I removed from my Model S with the comment that it is "slightly different" from the previous years. The next section is for the 1933 Model S2 and only shows items that are different from the Model S and makes no mention of the tie rod end so the presumption is they are the same for 32 and 33.
I went to my local NAPA dealer and he pulled out one of those old yellowed catalogues you referred to and the only tie rod end listed that had .812x18 right and left hand threads was for a Chevy truck. ($60 ea.) I ordered a set and they match the dimensions spinneyhill noted above however the taper is smaller than the OE tie rod end. The Chevy has a small end dimension of .609 and the OE is .638. I installed them and it appears that the taper angle is the same as they fit tight in the steering arm and the taper does not extend above the arm. The only issue is that the cotter pin hole is above the castle nut when the nut is tightened. I resolved this with some spacers between the nut and steering arm and everything seems to work just fine.
Now that I have that problem resolved I can get on with the brake and fuel system. Thanks for all the input.
Steve
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1 hour ago, Bob Giles said:
I just came from our local Battery Warehouse. I asked him if 6 volt Optima were being discontinued. He called his supplier which is Interstate and they told him they could still order them. $170.00
Ask him to call and find out how many are in inventory and if they are in stock pass that information along. The ones that are out there may soon be gone because the factory is out of stock and does not know when they will have any.
Steve
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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:
Probably...
1933-35 Flying Cloud S, 2S, 3S; Royale 7S, 6 cyl takes a DUFOR TE11, which is a male thread 13/16x18, bolt taper 0.703 to 0.609 over 3/4", ball bolt 1/2x20.
Also used on lots of Reo trucks 1932-39.
White trucks 1940-49 WB20, WB20T, WA20, WA20R, 32DG, 37DY, 37DZ, 64DA, 64DB, 54DA, 54DB, front axles 6 cyl.
Chevrolet truck 1935-50 Q, R, SA, SB, SC, SD, TA, TB, TC, TD, VA, VB VC, VD, WA, WB 4X2, YR, YS, YT, MR, MS, MT, OR, OS, PJ, PK (exc. heavy duty), QJ, QK, SJ, TJ, RJ, RK, SK, TK, Series 4103, 4104, 4105, 4107, 4109, 4409, 1.5 ton 6 cyl.
Chevrolet truck 1935-36 Maple Leaf, HX, HY, 2 ton.
Chev truck 1938-42 Series 15 1.5ton.
Chev Truck 1946-52 DS, ES, FS, GS, HS, JS, KS 1 ton commercial.
1946-52 sERIES 11
1947-52 Series 14
1958-59 Series 38, 41, 44 (exc. with HD front axle - not used with 2-speed axle).
Essex 1932 Super 6, 6cyl.
GMC truck 1935-38 T16 , T16H (1936)
GMC truck 1938-42 series 95
GMC truck 1939-51 AC300, CC260, CC300, CCS300, EC280, EC300, ECS300, FC150, EC250, FC250, FC280, FC300
GMC truck 1946-52 Series 91
GMC truck 1947-54 series 94
Graham 1930-35 companion 6, 58; Std 6, 65; Std 8 64, 67; Special 8, 67, 69; Custom 8, 57A, 69; Blue Streak 57, 72, 75, 79
Hudson 1932-33 Super 6, E; Great 8, Greater 8, T, U, L
A number of International Trucks (I am running out of oomph) 1932-37, 1934-37, 1937-40, 1940-49, 1950-56
Nash 1932-39 1120, 1220, Advance 6, 3520, Ambassador 6, 3620; Std 8 1130; Special 8 1170; Advance 8 1280, 3580; AMbassador 8 3580, 3680, 3780, 3880, 3980.
Oldsmobile 1932-33 F32, F33, L32, L33.
Oldsmobile Truck 1936-38 C131, C157
Thank you. Where do you find all this information?
Steve
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Spinneyhill, would you happen to have an interchange listing for the tie rod ends for a 1932 REO Model S? .812 x 18 male threads right and left hand.
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I talked to two people at Optima and they said they have no information on when they will be available. I was lucky, called JEGS last week and they had four in stock. I ordered two and got them. When I checked Monday they were out.
Now for some possible good news. I have been in contact with Lifeline batteries and am trying to get approval for a 6 volt AGM Group 1 battery. They already have the design just need to know if there is a market. If your interested go to their website and use the contact link to let them know. If several people expressed interest I think they would make a run of them. http://lifelinebatteries.com/
Lifeline is a premium quality AGM battery used extensively in the marine and RV industry and AGM is the perfect battery for use in hard to access locations like many of our old cars.
Steve
Edit: this is my contact, send him a message: justin@lifelinebatteries.com
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On 9/8/2018 at 8:18 AM, Curti said:
What is left of that air cleaner looks too new for a 1932
I agree, but if I could find a top half at least I’d have a filter. I really don’t want to put one of those dinky little chrome things on.
Steve
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A Royale would be ok also just want a coupe project car and prefer 32-34 time frame due to body styling and mechanical improvements.
Steve
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Disclaimer: I am NOT a REO expert, however the information I have was gleaned from reliable sources. Others with more accurate information are encouraged to correct my post.
It it is my understanding that REO introduced the Model S in 1932 as a budget model with a 117” wheelbase to try to save the company. The 1932 car has a 230 Cu. In. 6 cylinder engine with the generator driven by the fan belt instead of the timing chain as previous models. In 1933 they installed a 268 Cu. In. engine and made a few mechanical improvements and called it an S2 model. In 1934 there was a S2 standard and a S3 deluxe model. That’s all I know and am not 100% sure of the accuracy of the above statements.
I have a 1932 Model S Sport Sedan (dual side mounts) and am looking for a companion coupe.
Steve
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You guys have provided me with a lot of good information and I really appreciate it but please play nice. Everybody has their own “best way”. I can assure you that I’ve done lots of things others think are totally unnecessary but when I get through I’m confident that it will be as good or better than it was when I started and it makes me happy. ?
Steve
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Thanks Paul, great information. Increased my knowledge base.
Steve
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I would like to find a restorable 32-34 REO coupe project car. Prefer Model S but will consider other models and years. I’m posting this on several forums hoping someone has one for sale or knows someone who does. I need a project to keep me busy for the next two or three years. Any leads will be appreciated.
Thanks, Steve
731-796-0848
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16 hours ago, PFitz said:
The copper/nickel is easier to bend and flair than SS and it won't corrode like plain steel brake tubing. It's all I use in my customer's late 1920s and 30's cars.
Paul
Thanks Paul, what’s a good source?
Steve
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1932 REO with 1/4” copper lines and I want to replace them with steel/SS/cu-nickel. What do you recommend? There’s some pretty tight bends involved. I intend to buy the proper tools for the job.
Steve
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Original style preferred but I really don’t know what one looks like. My car has the bottom half of an oil bath filter so just the top half would be better than nothing. I’ve been told this may not be original. Bowl diameter is 7 3/4”.
Steve
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4 hours ago, 23hack said:
I find this repair most interesting. But how does this fit in a 20s or 30s water pump with external brass nuts for rope packing? OR is it only good for certain applications?
The machinist machines out the area where the packing goes and installs the seal. I found Dan Koehler’s name on another forum and called him. He explained what he did so I sent him my pump today. $300 bucks includes new bearing. Call him 920-221-0427.
Steve
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Somebody out there knows.
Preserving Headlamp Reflectors
in Technical
Posted
Thanks for the link.
Steve