Sactownog
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Posts posted by Sactownog
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well after searching I have found that there is no High Pro oil pump and the old one is all I get, so I will buy a new one and go with what I got.
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44 minutes ago, stakeside said:
Do you plan to rebuild the oil pump?
actually, I have seen some guy's rebuild the pump and do some UPDATES to them to make them more efficient, however I can not find the person who does this. it was on instagram and for some reason its been a pain in the A$$ to find that person. so now I am considering purchasing a new pump so that it is brand new and not rebuilt.
do you have any opinions? I would like a high flow oil pump but have not seen them anywhere.
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update:
got the front lower cross member rivets cut off and got the cross member removed which will make for easier engine install.
the rear cross member which holds the transmission upper mounts and center sifter has been removed and both will be sand blasted and painted.
the engine spec's are in tolerance for the main bearings and rod bearings.
I will start measuring the cylinders for pistons and find out if I can still use the same pistons or if I need to get new pistons. new rings will for sure go in.
I got a dremmel to take care of the intake and exhaust valves and may open up the ports a bit depending on how I feel.
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59 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said:
Do you plan to balance this engine?
this will be done once the connecting rod's are confirmed to work with Crank and the piston's are confirmed to go back into the engine within spec.
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UPDATE:
Got the new connecting rod bearings in and torqued, need to get them measured to know if I have any problems to attack.
I know the crank and main bearings will work, I also got the cam bearings out and need to get the new ones in, they will be placed in a freezer prior to instal to help shrink the bearings before being installed.
little by little this engine is getting put back together (I Hope)
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i did not shoot the interior of the block with a pressure washer, I did however soak with PB BLASTER/WD40, then put the block in the steam bath, then used air hose to blow out all the holes and I know what you mean, I got a ton of crud out of the block. makes me think how bad the radiator is. it ran cool (not hot) but I am sure there is crud in the radiator that needs to be flushed.
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UPDATE: I have got the stock piston's and rod's cleaned. put the engine into the hot tank again to try and get the remaining grease and crud off the block.
The paint has for the most part come off and the water galley's are getting less clogged.
the pistons are clean and once I get the mic spec's on them and the cylinder walls with a bore gauge, I will decide if I am going to use the pistons again or buy new ones.
the crank has been turned .40 over and the rod journals are also .40 over. I found bearings from Old Moparts.com and have been buying majority of the things needed for this build from them as they are very helpful.
the cam bearings have been banged out and I will be putting in new bearings for the stock crank. was going to put a HP cam in but I dont feel this is the type of engine that performance upgrades would really make a difference in, so its getting a refresh and put back together.
plans: put back together, paint silver, and run it.
stay tuned.
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1 hour ago, Pete in PA said:
Well this sounds like the right path to me. Carefully disassembly taking not of orientation of all parts. Look for match marks like dots on rotor and out ring -- they can make a difference. Then a new gasket/sealing ring. While a brand new pump with tight tolerances may be warranted for a tired engine with poor maintenance and/or very high miles it isn't necessary for "freshening" of a decent engine. IMO -- which come partly from the seemingly crazy price of $180 for said new pump.
I am going to start by tearing mine apart and seeing how good/bad it looks. the gears on it seem fine, but the internals may need a look
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12 hours ago, mobileparts said:
Might have one N.O.S. at less than $180.00 (which is probably a Chineseum anyway....)
Always best to simply call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935....
NOW, that would be the way to go.......
ya I hate those China rebuilt parts. must be ALL AMERICAN for my build.
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I have never rebuilt one, but they don't look that dificult to deal with. mine worked fine with good oil pressure. all I think I would need is a new gasket and clean it then put back together.
anyone with experience on this please chime in.
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OPINION WANTED:
1953 DODGE 230 FLAT HEAD 6
REBUILD OIL PUMP
OR
BUY NEW OIL PUMP FOR $180
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GOT IT OUT using a slide hammer and I got lucky it was not stuck and came out in 1 piece.
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UPDATE: was able to slide hammer out the water jacket in the block which came out in one piece (thankfully).
I got the engine in the steam washer for the 1st hour to see how it cleans up and it did come out pretty well.
I will be putting it back in the tank on Monday to clean even more.
ALSO: I did the measurements on the crank, the crank has been turned (.30 under on Main) (.20 on Connecting Rod's). the only issue I have is that finding .30 under main bearings is going to be hard to find I guess. I might have to have the crank turned .40 under spec to be able to get new bearings or deal with putting the engine back with the bearings that were in it which do not seem to have any issues.
as for the connecting rod's, I will get new bearings and polish the crank so that should be an easy step.
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10 minutes ago, keiser31 said:
You are VERY lucky those came apart without incident. Looking GREAT!
yeah, So far the only thing on this engine that is giving me problems is the water tube in the block.
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then painted with 1200+ degree silver paint and ready for install when engine is done.
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ready for paint
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intake before sand blasting
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This weekend I was able to get the Intake & Exhaust Manifold sandblasted and painted. piece by piece this engine will come back together.
these two pictures are before (right off the engine) and after sand blasting (no paint yet)
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16 hours ago, keiser31 said:
just made this guy an offer of $50 and he accepted right away, I purchased it just now.
which means, I need to get this tube out, even if it means taking it to an engine shop.
OIL RECOMMENDED VS WHAT YOU THINK
in Technical
Posted
I spoke to the machine shop that has done some work for my MOPAR 230 FLAT HEAD 6 ENGINE, they recommended diesel oil over the non-deturgent 30w oil that was recommended in the past.
I am currently rebuilding the engine, I have turned the crank, got new pistons, rings, am going to bore the cylinder's and now am now trying to figure out what oil I should use for the engine.
Thoughts?