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Sactownog

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Posts posted by Sactownog

  1. So I am trying to wire up the OD unit right now and my question on the directions George Asche sent me show the wires going to the IGNITION COIL and IGNITION SWITCH. 

     

    HOWEVER: the directions do not say which side to connect the green and black wire on the Ignition coil or which side to connect the red and black wire on the ignition switch. 

     

    Do these connections from the Relay matter or can they be connected to either sides? 

     

    EXAMPLE: one side of the ignition is from the power distribution and the other is connected to the coil. PLEASE HELP. 

    20200729_111315[1].jpg

  2. 2 hours ago, Grimy said:

    Kickdown switch is mounted to the toeboard under the accel pedal and its plunger is adjusted so that the plunger moves and engages only when you "bury" the pedal--done 99.9999999% of the time with your foot 🙂

    ARE YOU SURE? I thought the kick down switch was used when you lift your foot off the throttle, then engage the clutch, then push in the kick down button to shift into 2nd or 3rd gear, then release clutch and back on the throttle? 

  3. 7 hours ago, JACK M said:

    Whoop Whoop.

    Big day for you.

    Interesting how your car turned into a right hand drive between start ups.

    A LITTLE FLIP FLOP ACTION hahah camera just recorded that way for some reason. its still left hand drive. right hand would be fun tho. 

     

    Dropped off driveline to get rebuilt today and will be working on finding the exhaust or building it. 

     

    also, does anyone have an idea on where to put the transmission shift button (button used to shift from 3rd OD to 2nd OD) 

  4. 6 hours ago, ply33 said:

    What carburetor do you have on there? Looks quite different from the Carter B&B on my '33 Plymouth.

     

    I don't see a road draft tube but there is something on the block where it attaches. What are you doing for crankcase ventilation.

     

    Engine sounds good!

    The carburetor I have is a BDX-3 Stromberg single barrel. 

     

    not sure what a draft tube is (unless its the circle with a drop tube towards the ground on passenger side of engine) but I have the connection in the engine but not the drop tube. 

     

  5. 56 minutes ago, Buffalowed Bill said:

    Speaking for Studebakers, that I know a little about. The first Warner OD's were referred to as "automatic overdrives," that is that they were either in or out of OD, and could not be locked out after a certain speed was obtained and the driver let up on the accelerator. The early (1934-37) trans could not be locked out of OD. In 1937 Studebaker finally got an optional trans that had a mechanical, cable operated OD, with which the driver was now able to lock the trans out of OD, but still no electrical function. It seems as though nearly every year there was another iteration of the transmission. In 1939 the electrical function was introduced, which allowed for the driver to floor the accelerator, to down shift (passing gear). The electric kick down, like your car has, really provided the last required layer of improvement to make the OD equipped cars a real delight to drive. 

    I am getting more and more excited to drive this car again, especially with the OD. Praying it works properly. 

  6. 3 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

    Pushing the knob in is typically the ON position for the overdrive. Not always, but usually. Start there.

     

    HOWEVER, this knob is not to be considered simply an ON/OFF switch. Pushing it in will not immediately engage the overdrive and pulling it out at speed can damage the unit. Don't do that.
     

    Instead, what pushing the knob in does is make the overdrive ready to shift into overdrive; the solenoid does the actual shifting, not the knob or lever. Pushing the knob in will activate free-wheeling, so if you are in 3rd gear and it feels like you are coasting in neutral, you know you're in free-wheeling mode. Once you are in free-wheeling mode, you activate the overdrive by accelerating to more than about 30 MPH in 3rd gear (or even 2nd, but start with 3rd gear until you get to know it) and then VERY ABRUPTLY lift off the accelerator pedal. I mean, just pull your foot off the pedal. Not gently, not gradually--just snap the throttle closed. If the overdrive unit is working correctly, you will feel something akin to an automatic transmission shift and free-wheeling will end. You will be in overdrive.

     

    I find that 2nd gear + overdrive is a great around-town gear and if yours is factory-installed, it will have an automatic kick-down that will take it out of overdrive when you slow down sufficiently. Speed up again, lift off the pedal, and it will go back into overdrive. It was designed to cut down on shifting around town and works rather well that way. 3rd gear + overdrive will carry you at 60-65 MPH.

     

    I don't know about the button and the step down, but it might just be a manual override to take it out of overdrive--they may have removed the governor that did it automatically when you slow down. Experiment and see what happens when you push it while in overdrive. It probably kills power to the solenoid, releasing the overdrive and going back into free-wheeling/non-overdrive mode. You'll feel it.

     

    But the single most important thing (and the part most guys don't get) is to accelerate to speed with the knob in free-wheeling mode, then quickly and abruptly lift off the accelerator. Most people don't understand this part, but the clutch sprag in the overdrive needs a bit of backlash to lock up the overdrive's planetary gears. If you do it too gently or at too low a speed, nothing will happen. You'll know you're in overdrive because you will have engine braking again, even though it will be slight in overdrive. It won't be like free-wheeling which feels like being in neutral. If you don't have free-wheeling, then it will not shift into overdrive--most likely culprit is having the overdrive lever in the wrong position or not fully pushed in or pulled out.

     

    Also, while the instructions say you can take it in and out of free-wheeling mode while moving, I find that it's harsh and borderline abusive to the hardware, and never, ever do it while the overdrive is engaged. I recommend only doing it while sitting still. On factory installations, reverse gear should work regardless of the overdrive knob's position, but if you find that you have no reverse gear, pull out the overdrive knob, which will disengage free-wheeling and allow the one-way clutch in the overdrive unit to lock up and reverse should work again.

     

    Hope this helps.

    That is the most information I have been given about a transmission ever, let alone the one that I have. Thank you VERY much. I have found that Disengaged OD is when the lever is towards the engine (I.E. when the knob on dash is pulled out towards driver) and when the knob on dash is pushed in that it will engage the transmission OD. 

     

    as you mentioned above, "likely culprit is having the overdrive lever in the wrong position or not fully pushed in or pulled out." so I plan to set the lever with the dash knob pulled out (disengaged) and start from there with hopes that it will allow me to push in the knob and fully engage the OD. 

     

    again. Thank you for this awesome amount of help. this info should be stickied somewhere on this forum. 

  7. I am running a 1939 Dodge 3-sp with O/D unit. 

     

    There is a push/pull mechanism behind the solenoid that engages or disengages the Overdrive function. 

     

    My question: when the push/pull mechanism is forward (toward engine) is that when the OD is engaged? or is it when the lever is towards to back of the vehicle (towards the rear of the vehicle)?

     

    There is also a button that I am told I hit to (Step Down) the OD. so if I am in 3rd gear with the over drive engaged and I am going up a hill and need more speed, that I can hit the button and shift into 2nd gear OD to help push car more easily up the hill. 

     

    all help is appreciated. 

  8. On 7/5/2020 at 9:24 AM, Brooklyn Beer said:

    NAPA 90W SAE    GL1.  Just used it in my 39 Chrysler with OD.  Tossed in some seal conditioner with it.  remember that it takes some time for the fluid to run over and fill the rear so a slow fill is needed.  I just pumped up the fill hole and shoved a rag around the hole and overfilled it.  Let it sit for 8 hours and removed the rag and let the excess drain out.  They come in gallon jugs.  Are you saying you have a drain and fill plug for both?  4 plugs total ?

    image.png.b11f643250935f61e4497fcc06bd7645.png

    YES! i have two fill holes and 2 drain plugs for fluid. one on tranny 3 speed area and one on OD unit. 

     

    another quick question. my trans has a push pull rod for the OD. anyone know on the trans if the tab is pulled forward (towards engine) is that disengaged or engaged in to OD 

  9. I am still clueless on what fluid to use for my transmission which is a 39 Plymouth 3 speed with OD. There are two fill locations. 3 speed front area and rear OD area. 

     

    I have talked to amsoil and didn't really get an answer. 

     

    we settled on Gear oil that would be 75W-80 or something thin like that. but I got no definitive answer. 

     

    anyone got the true best trans oil to use? 

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